Spare Key

[StickMon]

Stop me if you've heard this one before.
I did quite a bit of searching and I couldn't find this exact situation.

I have no spare key, so I'm driving with scissors.
Looks like I can buy an uncut blank off eBay, find somebody to copy the cut of my existing key, and then clone my existing key by doing the incantation:
Put good key in ignition, turn on and off, hold unlock and press lock 3 times, click heals together, and then do spare key.
Sounds simple enough, just did the same thing for an eBay fob for my Wife's Suburban, until I read a scarey caveat on some Keys-R-Us website that said:
"We include instructions on programming the remote functions only. You will have to have the key cut and programmed by a dealer to start the car."

Does anyone know if the "hold unlock and press lock 3 times, yada", incantation will code the key to start the car, or does that just clone the remote lock/unlock?

[XMetal]

"hold unlock and press lock 3 times, yada", incantation will just clone the remote lock/unlock. You'll need the dealer to program the car to accept the key. I believed a car can only be programmed to accept up to 8 keys during its entire life. What's after the 8th keys ...probably a new ECU?

[Shipkiller]

BMW makes 10 keys for each car they manufacture. After you go through those keys, then you need a new immobilizer module.

Just order a new key from your dealer and this issue will go away.

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

BMW makes 10 keys for each car they manufacture. After you go through those keys, then you need a new immobilizer module.

Just order a new key from your dealer and this issue will go away.

this. you would need the "brain" for the key. Bite the bullet and go through the dealer. I bought my car with 1 key and after ordering a 200+ spare, I managed to lose one of them and this time I ordered a valet key at 100+.

[Shipkiller]

Each dealer charges different prices.

In an earlier thread, I had to replace both of my keys. Each one was $160.00.
Took them home and followed the key initialization procedure and both work.

NO HEADACHES

[SD ///M4]

I bought my car in July from a BMW dealer in the Bay Area but it only came with one key and I didn't think to press them about a second key, not realizing how expensive they were. After I got home I went to my local dealer and had to order the key, ~$195 (~$175 with BMW CCA discount).

After the key arrived several days later, one of the service guys did the key initialization procedure for me but he was an idiot. After I checked that the key did everything it was supposed to do, I put the new key in my pocket and then got in the car to start it with the old key. It didn't work. For some reason this guy thought I was replacing the old key rather than buying a second key, so he had to re-initialize both keys all over again.

After browsing this forum and other Z forums (and the manual) I found out that the Z4 has key memory which would remember the seat and mirrors position, just like my wife's 335is Coupe, only this is supposed to be a setting that the dealer has to do. I went back to the dealer and he wants another $175 to program the key memory (and turn on DRL)! Anybody know how to do this?

[RobMCoupe]

You can use one of those knockoff program from eBay to program your car.

I don't think mirror memory is available for Z4s. At least it does not work for me after having dealer program all the features for me.

[Shipkiller]

The ID of the new key is different than the old key. While the new key works in the car, the ID is different than the one tagged for those settings saved for the old key.

Just use the new key and resave the settings you want for that key.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

The ID of the new key is different than the old key. While the new key works in the car, the ID is different than the one tagged for those settings saved for the old key.

Just use the new key and resave the settings you want for that key.

My understanding of how it works is that if you open the car with key A, move the seat to where you want it, start the car, and then shut it off and lock it with key A, it will automatically retain the seat position in the key A memory. If you open the car with key B, move the seat to where you want it, start the car and then shut it off and lock it with key B, it will automatically retain the seat position in the key B memory. If you then open the car with key A, the seat will return to the position set when key A was last used, likewise with key B. However, the setting for this must be enabled for the car to operate this way.

I played around with this with the old key (A) and no matter where I moved the seat after locking the car with key A, it would not remember the seat position. I've played with this further with both keys and I'm unable to get it to remember the seat position with either key.

Apparently the original owner did not have the dealer set the option that enables key memory. This is what I want to enable, along with DRL. These options apparently have to be set by the dealer, unlike my wife's 335is Coupe, which does it automatically with Comfort Access, or you can turn it off in iDrive (good for when you take the car in for service and they move the seat).

In the meantime, I have my seat position set on memory button 1, and my wife has her seat position set on memory button 2. It would be more convenient to just have the seat move when I unlock the car, since it has that capability.

[Shipkiller]

You are correct in your thought process.

Since none of the key memory features work, you most likely will have to go to the dealer or a good indy mechanic to have this and the DLR (sudo angle eyes) encoded to work.

[davesz4mc]

If you are programming two keys you have to turn ignition on/off and do both one after the other. if you turn ignition on/off after one key it stops the process and removes additional keys. My key when not programed to lock/unlock the car will not start it either. However after they are programmed as above they work fine.

[StickMon]

I know that for all of the settings in SSS there are check boxes for "Car" (not key dependent), or keys 1, 2, 3, 4. As I recall, most if not all were set to "Car" as the factory default.

[StickMon]

I emailed the previous owner to see if she had the spare key kicking around in a junk drawer.
She hasn't replied. I think I may have creeped her out.
I bought the car from a used car stealer who bought it at an auction who bought it from the stealer she sold it to.
Note to all: Make sure you don't leave an old vehicle registration tucked inside the owner's manual when you sell your car.

It's likely I could program the car to accept an ebay key using SSS or DIS, but I think I'll take the advice of the more level-headed here and just pony up and go to a stealer.

[elerner61]

Found this thread and it made me think about "spare key" strategy.

Until recently, I kept the plastic valet key hidden in my trunk. My thinking had been if I get locked out, I get a cop/other to open the car for me and then I pop the trunk to get to the key. After reading some threads, I've since discovered (and tested) if you lock the car with your wireless key and open it via any other means you can't open the trunk via the button by the drivers footwell. I have since hidden the valet key inside the passenger compartment.

Any thoughts or opinions on this?

[intoflatlines]

Well the obvious drawback to that is if someone gets in your car somehow (break window, slash top, whatever) there's the key that will start the car, sitting right there in the passenger compartment... Keeping a key to the car hidden inside my car is something that I just can't bring myself to do.

[StickMon]

I think the key word is "hidden".
Even if you had it in your trunk, you can get to the trunk from the passenger compartment.
At least a thief could, because he wouldn't be trying to do it in a non-destructive manner.
I haven't tried to remove the "tea tray" from the passenger compartment.