Valves adjusted at 27k

gcochard · 03-25-2012, 12:27 AM

Just had my valves adjusted by Kaiv (Kevin). Great guy, super great rates. He brought all tools and shim kit, gave me a valve clearance checksheet, and checked my vanos bolts/hubs. He didn't mind me taking pictures as he worked either

5 valves needed adjusting, he reused two.

Inside the engine. Looks great:

RTV here, it was open before.

Vanos hub side 1:

Vanos hub side 2:

Shim screen. Apparently these weren't here on early motors:

Spec sheet provided by Kevin:

Spark plugs. Perfect color:

All buttoned back up:

XMetal · 03-25-2012, 12:44 AM

Awesome...thanks for sharing. I've heard great things about Kevin and sounds like he's a specialist at this

I will definitely be calling Kevin to do my adjustment as well later on this year (about 8k miles to go)!

Did you change out the plugs as well? Where did you get your transmission and diff fluids done?

BMW Maniac · 03-25-2012, 01:20 AM

Shim "screen" what a novel concept!

bignosejim · 03-25-2012, 07:51 AM

Wow, that engine is super clean!

Glad to hear no issues with the vanos. It was a big relief when I did mine, being able to see my tabs were intact.

Did you RTV the rear half moons? When I did my 07 MC, I didn't see any RTV around there so I didn't add any (unlike what the TIS says). So far I've had no leaks.

gcochard · 03-25-2012, 12:24 PM

No on the plugs, the interval is 60k so I'm sticking with that.

I got the diff and Trans fluids changed at 17k miles at bullet performance. They use redline, you can ask them to use OEM fluids. Since mine is under warranty, I just went with the redline since I didn't want to deal with getting oem at crevier. I think I will try oem next time (45k) and see if it feels any different.

Yes, he RTVd the half moons.

Interesting to note, all the shims that needed adjusting needed to be replaced with smaller shims. Does that mean the lifter or valve stem grows over time?

thekurgan · 03-25-2012, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffhopper

No on the plugs, the interval is 60k so I'm sticking with that.

I got the diff and Trans fluids changed at 17k miles at bullet performance. They use redline, you can ask them to use OEM fluids. Since mine is under warranty, I just went with the redline since I didn't want to deal with getting oem at crevier. I think I will try oem next time (45k) and see if it feels any different.

Yes, he RTVd the half moons.

Interesting to note, all the shims that needed adjusting needed to be replaced with smaller shims. Does that mean the lifter or valve stem grows over time?

Valves stretch, and the valve seats can recede over time. I had 2 on the exhaust side tight like that as well.

gcochard · 03-26-2012, 10:53 AM

Now that I think of it, we didn't RTV the half moons. Only the front seams.

thekurgan · 03-26-2012, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffhopper

Now that I think of it, we didn't RTV the half moons. Only the front seams.

It is rare for leaks in the rear, pick up a small mirror and check is once in a while, if you feel or see oil (usually where the half moon transitions to the flat surface, it's a sharp area, then you'll know the rtv was needed. Was your gasket semi-oily when it arrived in the kit? I found my gasket pretty oily and cleaned it with dawn before putting it on the cleaned head surface.

gcochard · 03-26-2012, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thekurgan

It is rare for leaks in the rear, pick up a small mirror and check is once in a while, if you feel or see oil (usually where the half moon transitions to the flat surface, it's a sharp area, then you'll know the rtv was needed. Was your gasket semi-oily when it arrived in the kit? I found my gasket pretty oily and cleaned it with dawn before putting it on the cleaned head surface.

The gasket seemed very clean. He definitely did not clean it.

I'll be checking for leaks at the rear in maybe 1k miles...

runnerx · 03-26-2012, 01:51 PM

Glad to see your hub is okay. If I recall correctly TIS suggests to RTV the half moons.

Have you ever changed those cam bolts?

skim · 03-26-2012, 01:54 PM

nicely done

gcochard · 03-26-2012, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by runnerx

Glad to see your hub is okay. If I recall correctly TIS suggests to RTV the half moons.

Have you ever changed those cam bolts?

I have not changed the cam bolts, but I don't know if they are factory. They may have been changed some time before I bought it as the valve cover was off at some point prior to my valve adjustment, judging from the RTV already on the head. Kevin told me that there is none from the factory.

Anyway, I will most likely open the engine and do the cam gear test at some point between now and the next inspection. Maybe during the next oil change.

runnerx · 03-26-2012, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffhopper

I have not changed the cam bolts, but I don't know if they are factory. They may have been changed some time before I bought it as the valve cover was off at some point prior to my valve adjustment, judging from the RTV already on the head. Kevin told me that there is none from the factory.

Anyway, I will most likely open the engine and do the cam gear test at some point between now and the next inspection. Maybe during the next oil change.

my buddy and I worked on his Z4M with roughly 20k miles never had the cover removed before (no valve adjust or vanos ever done to it) and it had the same RTV. His car came with the new cam bolts but with no loctite. We decided to replace them anyways + loctite to ensure they stay in place.

thekurgan · 03-26-2012, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffhopper

I have not changed the cam bolts, but I don't know if they are factory. They may have been changed some time before I bought it as the valve cover was off at some point prior to my valve adjustment, judging from the RTV already on the head. Kevin told me that there is none from the factory.

Anyway, I will most likely open the engine and do the cam gear test at some point between now and the next inspection. Maybe during the next oil change.

There should have been, can be varying in color from blue, black or dark brown. I went with the clear 3M stuff though.

gcochard · 03-26-2012, 06:05 PM

I stand corrected.

I will keep an eye on the cam gear regardless. Maybe I'll just replace the bolts next time I am doing a valve adjustment.

davesz4mc · 03-26-2012, 06:18 PM

If your valves streached or wore enough seat of to require smaller shims at 27K you have bigger issues going on! You will not even need at shim at 100k at that rate. Post a close up of them spec shet and did you check any clearences yourself? A loose motor is not a happy motor.

Caddyshk · 03-26-2012, 06:29 PM

Maybe I'm missing something; however, I was of the understanding that both inspecting and replacing the bolts required removal of the vanos unit itself? Not simply done while doing the valve work.

bignosejim · 03-27-2012, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffhopper

Now that I think of it, we didn't RTV the half moons. Only the front seams.

When I did mine that way, I noticed a little oil accumulation after about a week of driving. Not enough to drip and it has been dry as a bone for the last couple of months.

Blind32 · 03-27-2012, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caddyshk

Maybe I'm missing something; however, I was of the understanding that both inspecting and replacing the bolts required removal of the vanos unit itself? Not simply done while doing the valve work.

That is correct, When you take the valve cover off, you will not be able to see much less reach the whole cam bolts. They are behind the VANOS unit. I replaced mine and it took a few hours. Also requires specific S54 tools.

Here is a shot of the suspect bolts from when I did mine. Notice the missing VANOS and CAM Covers.

My replacement thread: http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=407826

Sorry not trying to thread jack

gcochard · 03-27-2012, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davesz4mc

If your valves streached or wore enough seat of to require smaller shims at 27K you have bigger issues going on! You will not even need at shim at 100k at that rate. Post a close up of them spec shet and did you check any clearences yourself? A loose motor is not a happy motor.

I have the spec sheet. Here's the shims that were changed.
2.26 -> 2.24 (2.26 is not standard, but the micrometer measured it at that)
2.36 -> 2.32
2.32 -> 2.28
2.32 -> 2.28
2.36 -> 2.32

Yes, I verified all clearances before and after the shims were replaced. We did not document what shims were there for the valves that did not need to be adjusted...since they didn't need adjustment.

The shim sizes go from 2.60 down to 1.72 in .04 increments, I doubt I'll run out of sizes by 100k.

gcochard · 03-27-2012, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caddyshk

Maybe I'm missing something; however, I was of the understanding that both inspecting and replacing the bolts required removal of the vanos unit itself? Not simply done while doing the valve work.

I was simply saying I'll be pulling the vanos off next time I am in there.

davesz4mc · 03-27-2012, 11:46 AM

So a min spec shim would not fit into those valves? I find it hard to believe it would ever need a reduction in overall shim size. My car with 65k miles I put 6 bigger shims in and would of put another 10 bigger shims in if they came half stepped. I was after min spec on every valve.

It is an interferance motor so if you drove it to get the adjustment done they were a good spec right? I am confused I guess at what measurments you took to determine they needed to be reduced in size.

03-25-2012, 12:27 AM	#1
gcochard Captain 24 Rep 784 Posts Drives: 2011.5 E90 M3 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: South OC iTrader: (2) Garage List 2011 BMW M3 [0.00]	Valves adjusted at 27k Just had my valves adjusted by Kaiv (Kevin). Great guy, super great rates. He brought all tools and shim kit, gave me a valve clearance checksheet, and checked my vanos bolts/hubs. He didn't mind me taking pictures as he worked either 5 valves needed adjusting, he reused two. Inside the engine. Looks great: RTV here, it was open before. Vanos hub side 1: Vanos hub side 2: Shim screen. Apparently these weren't here on early motors: Spec sheet provided by Kevin: Spark plugs. Perfect color: All buttoned back up:
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03-25-2012, 12:44 AM	#2
XMetal Colonel 1135 Rep 2,866 Posts Drives: Anything Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SoCal iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 Z4M Coupe [10.00] 2018 Audi S3 [0.00] 2004 X5 [8.50]	Awesome...thanks for sharing. I've heard great things about Kevin and sounds like he's a specialist at this I will definitely be calling Kevin to do my adjustment as well later on this year (about 8k miles to go)! Did you change out the plugs as well? Where did you get your transmission and diff fluids done?
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03-25-2012, 01:20 AM	#3
BMW Maniac Lieutenant 22 Rep 428 Posts Drives: Former Z4M coupe owner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Orlando, FL iTrader: (1)	Shim "screen" what a novel concept! __________________ 1997 /// M3 Coupe Arctic Silver CES STAGE IV (651rwhp/615rwtq) 1999 /// M3 Convertible Techno Violet
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03-25-2012, 07:51 AM	#4
bignosejim Lieutenant 40 Rep 400 Posts Drives: 2007 IB M Coupe Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: DFW iTrader: (0)	Wow, that engine is super clean! Glad to hear no issues with the vanos. It was a big relief when I did mine, being able to see my tabs were intact. Did you RTV the rear half moons? When I did my 07 MC, I didn't see any RTV around there so I didn't add any (unlike what the TIS says). So far I've had no leaks.
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03-25-2012, 12:24 PM	#5
gcochard Captain 24 Rep 784 Posts Drives: 2011.5 E90 M3 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: South OC iTrader: (2) Garage List 2011 BMW M3 [0.00]	No on the plugs, the interval is 60k so I'm sticking with that. I got the diff and Trans fluids changed at 17k miles at bullet performance. They use redline, you can ask them to use OEM fluids. Since mine is under warranty, I just went with the redline since I didn't want to deal with getting oem at crevier. I think I will try oem next time (45k) and see if it feels any different. Yes, he RTVd the half moons. Interesting to note, all the shims that needed adjusting needed to be replaced with smaller shims. Does that mean the lifter or valve stem grows over time?
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03-26-2012, 10:53 AM	#7
gcochard Captain 24 Rep 784 Posts Drives: 2011.5 E90 M3 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: South OC iTrader: (2) Garage List 2011 BMW M3 [0.00]	Now that I think of it, we didn't RTV the half moons. Only the front seams.
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03-26-2012, 01:51 PM	#10
runnerx Second Lieutenant 16 Rep 266 Posts Drives: 06 M roadster; 06 330i 6spd Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Bay Area, California iTrader: (0)	Glad to see your hub is okay. If I recall correctly TIS suggests to RTV the half moons. Have you ever changed those cam bolts? __________________ 2009 BMW X5 4.8i 2006 BMW ///M Roadster 6spd manual 2006 BMW 330i 6spd manual - gone
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03-26-2012, 01:54 PM	#11
skim Captain 142 Rep 660 Posts Drives: 07 Z4MC Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: SoCal iTrader: (0)	nicely done __________________ Future mod consideration: exhaust, pulley otherwise, very happy with how the m3 was born Last edited by skim; 03-26-2012 at 02:08 PM..
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03-26-2012, 06:05 PM	#15
gcochard Captain 24 Rep 784 Posts Drives: 2011.5 E90 M3 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: South OC iTrader: (2) Garage List 2011 BMW M3 [0.00]	I stand corrected. I will keep an eye on the cam gear regardless. Maybe I'll just replace the bolts next time I am doing a valve adjustment.
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03-26-2012, 06:18 PM	#16
davesz4mc Second Lieutenant 25 Rep 296 Posts Drives: 2007 z4mc Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: San Antonio, Tx iTrader: (0)	If your valves streached or wore enough seat of to require smaller shims at 27K you have bigger issues going on! You will not even need at shim at 100k at that rate. Post a close up of them spec shet and did you check any clearences yourself? A loose motor is not a happy motor.
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03-26-2012, 06:29 PM	#17
Caddyshk M = Midlife Crisis 65 Rep 2,006 Posts Drives: 2006 Z4MC Interlagos Join Date: May 2007 Location: Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0)	Maybe I'm missing something; however, I was of the understanding that both inspecting and replacing the bolts required removal of the vanos unit itself? Not simply done while doing the valve work. __________________ 2006 Z4MC - #LL93158 SS Race Cans, RE X Pipe, DKF Sec 1, Fabspeed Headers, OE STB, AS Shifter, Dave Z CDV, GC Coil Overs, Stoptech lines, Hawk DTC Pads, RE Clutch Stop, RE Transmission Mounts, Vibra-Technics Engine Mounts, Poly FCAB & RTAB, LeatherZ M Shift Boot, Tekarbon Rear Spoiler, CF Grills, Advan RS DGM
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03-27-2012, 11:46 AM	#22
davesz4mc Second Lieutenant 25 Rep 296 Posts Drives: 2007 z4mc Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: San Antonio, Tx iTrader: (0)	So a min spec shim would not fit into those valves? I find it hard to believe it would ever need a reduction in overall shim size. My car with 65k miles I put 6 bigger shims in and would of put another 10 bigger shims in if they came half stepped. I was after min spec on every valve. It is an interferance motor so if you drove it to get the adjustment done they were a good spec right? I am confused I guess at what measurments you took to determine they needed to be reduced in size.
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