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12-23-2011, 06:20 PM | #1 |
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Got my car dyno'd
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Active Autowerke Green filter Active Autowerke Pulley Active Autowerke rear exhaust Sosi x-pipe(secondary removal only) 354whp 268tq
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12-23-2011, 08:01 PM | #3 |
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No tune I assume?
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12-23-2011, 08:16 PM | #4 |
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Car sounds great. You would get a more accurate number if your car was run to redline.
Did you only have one run?
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12-23-2011, 08:22 PM | #5 |
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I got my car dynoed at tach as well... my numbers were a little low i felt like, they specialize more in evo's and STI's
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12-23-2011, 10:31 PM | #6 | |
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No tune and still have primaries numbers are def low though
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12-24-2011, 09:53 AM | #7 |
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not sure, i wasn't really watching the guy (erkel) dyno jets are great.. next dyno i go to imma make sure they specialize in bmers
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12-24-2011, 10:26 AM | #8 |
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Those numbers aren't bad at all, remove primaries (most power gained) and get a tune and you will really see a difference. And take it to redline! Where in NY are you? i can hook you up with one of the guys we use for a dyno. One is in Poughkeepsie by me, hes an audi guy with an all wheel drive mustang dyno, or we use one in Long island (Dyno Jet)
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12-24-2011, 11:18 AM | #9 |
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When you dyno your car, the first 3-4 pulls will always make less power. Whether it's the drive train warming up, or the ECU adapting, you will always make more power with each successive run for the first 3-4 dyno runs.
Your run above is Run-001 and will be the lowest of all of your runs. The car was still increasing power @ 7800 when the dyno operator hit the button to stop collecting data (his mistake). You should always take the car to redline, and you should always continue making dyno runs (with about a 1-minute cool down between runs) until the power peaks. After the power peaks, your next run will usually be almost exactly the same as the peak power run. If you have the dyno run files, PM me and I'll take a look. You can also consult the BMW Dyno Database (www.bmwdynodatabase.com) for a collection of ~475 bmw dyno runs to see how yours compares to others with similar mods. |
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12-24-2011, 11:39 AM | #10 |
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You need a tune to really get the most potential from those modifications.
Mustang Dyno- reads extremely low jb4 335's makes around 310 and -330tq Stock x pipe |
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12-24-2011, 12:29 PM | #11 |
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You also need to get the SAE numbers, not STD.
Dave
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12-24-2011, 12:45 PM | #12 |
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you ALSO need baseline numbers. this dyno reads super low because in general our cars are supposed to dyno stock at 350hp but thats ok as long as you have a baseline we can see the real gains on your car. without the base we cant really judge anything
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12-24-2011, 05:15 PM | #13 | |
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12-24-2011, 05:17 PM | #14 | |
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12-24-2011, 05:40 PM | #15 | |
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Dave
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12-24-2011, 05:42 PM | #16 | |
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Dave
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12-24-2011, 06:29 PM | #17 |
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12-24-2011, 06:52 PM | #18 | |
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Its just good practice to get SAE.
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12-24-2011, 08:26 PM | #19 | |
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I actually like UNCORRECTED for my own purposes, since it is what the car is actually making. On a cold day, you might make 4% more power than on a hot day. You tune a car based on UNCORRECTED. STD and SAE are just for comparison purposes. |
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12-24-2011, 10:27 PM | #20 |
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You get enlightened everyday, from my understaning the difference is usually right at 2.6%..I always thought this can fluctuate...hmm.
Dave
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12-25-2011, 07:49 AM | #21 |
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My point was that if you have one, you can get the other. They are mathematical formulas as you have acknowledged above by providing the reference data. If you have one, the "target is not moving" such that you cannot get the other.
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12-25-2011, 11:25 AM | #22 | |
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Dave
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