BMW reliability - 128i?

[Newtobimmers]

Hello BMW owners/fans! Been lurking for a while now and decided to make an account to seek for opinions/views/advices from this wonderful BMW nest!

I don't know much about cars in general... just basic knowledge but I am really interested in purchasing a new BMW 2012 128i coupe ($36k) with the following configuration:
- exterior: white alpine finish
- interior: coral red boston leather, alpine white trim ($2,485)
- M package (M Aerodynamic Package, Anthracite roof Liner, Sport bucket front seats, Anthracite Roofliner, M Leather-wrapped sport steering wheel, 17'' M alloy wheels ($2,100)
- 6-speed automatic transmission with Steptronic Shift Paddles ($1,700)

This will be a 50k (CAD) bimmer including (A/C Tax, Transport & PDI, HST)

My questions are:

1) Are BMWs reliable cars? Specifically the 128i coupe. What are the major potential problems of this car? Engine problems like the N55? It is my understanding that it costs a fortune to fix BMWs.

2) Finance or lease? So many ppl nowadays lease BMWs. What's the main reason? Don't want to deal with mechanic bills after the warranty expires? Want to drive new cars every 4-5 years? If money is not the issue, will you finance or lease or even straight out pay out everything?

3) What's your main reason for choosing BMW? Looks, performance, reliability, price? Is it worth it when you have to pay higher insurance, use premium gas, spend more in maintenance fees/parts? Can you recommend a car in the same range as the 128i coupe in terms of overall quality?

Thank you very much for reading and I hope I can get some responses!

-Newtobimmers

[alexckma]

different people have different reasons whether to lease or finance cars. If you lease the payments are obviously lower, but yet the car isn't yours, and you can't really do as you please with the car (not to mention the fact that you have to restore the car back to its original condition if you run it into something). But it's like 1/2 price compared to finance. Finance, the car is yours, but you make payments, at default they claim the car. But at the end of the term, the contract ends, the car is urs to keep.

I don't do lease, i prefer finance, I like to do as i please with the car.

Bmw are NOT reliable cars, there are too many computers. Even if there is only 10% chance of the car being unreliable, when there are 1000 computers in the car, that would mean 100 computers can go wrong.

As to why bmw, well I no longer have one, used to, and the 128i was one of them. It was small, cheap and no other cars really compared to this. I wanted something from europe cuz of their solidness, the stiff chassis. Merc and Audi has nothing as such hence the 128i. If you get a 3 series then there is LESS of a reason to isolate bmw because merc and audis arent that bad either in their luxury department.

I would say I would give my 2011 128i a 4 out of 5 stars. For its price, its power (really it's enough for its weight), looks and reliability. Though I did have a few problems with the radio but nothing mechanical.

I would steer clear of the N55 engines cuz of HPFP. I rather shell out more money and get an M3. But there are some real fans here of that engine.

[amancuso]

Had mine for 18,000 miles so far. Only issue was a faulty footwell module that needed to be replaced.

[tritonx]

128i are nice little car, nothing really comparable on the market. Similar Coupe Audi are twice the price and not my cup of tea. I've always been a BMW fan, had 2 E36 before getting my 128i sport.

1. Any problem you will encounter while under warranty will be fixed by BMW, I had a few minor things to fix and always had great service from my dealer. The engine in the 128i probably is one of the most reliable and the last great Naturally Aspirated inline 6 on the market. The added cost of ownership while under warranty will be similar to other cars, of course 18" rubber cost more than 15" and if you want run flats it cost even more. But if you do small stuff like brakes and tire change yourself, it's easier on the wallet.

2.I prefer Financing vs Lease because I plan to keep it for a while. Good thing is those car keep a good residual value compared to other cars.

3. BMWs are reliable, safe and fun to drive. My insurance is very reasonable, it's a new car after all, and if you are over 25 and have a clean file it shouldn't be too much. If you can't spend the little extra(fuel, shines, etc...) for a small "luxury" car you might want to look elsewhere.

Mine has 14K km on the clock and I love it more everyday.

Where in Canada are you ?

[Artmasterx]

I had a 2008 128i (first year) for about 20k miles and didn't have any issues. The inline-6 in the 128i has essentially been in various BMWs for 10+ years now (with continuous improvement of course), the it should generally be a solid, reliable engine if taken care of. You don't have to worry about the 135i issues, in particular the high-pressure fuel pump (the 128i doesn't have one, I think) and potential turbo failure once you get to higher mileages.

There are the typical failures that can happen on all modern cars in terms of electronics, but in general they are well-built. One common fault on the 1-series was the 3rd brake light cracking and sometime falling out. I'm not sure if they have found a fix for it, though I never had the problem.

I agree with what triton said about maintenance, and would add the following:
1. Avoid dealerships for anything you have to pay for, particularly if you can do it yourself. Doing your own (non-free) oil changes, brakes, and other "simple" maintenance will save you a lot when you get to that point.

2. Unless you are really worried about getting stranded, don't buy new run-flats when the originals wear out. Even better, when you negotiate to buy the car, tell them flat out that you want: (a) the run-flats taken off, (b) replaced by a good non-runflat, e.g. Michelin PS2 or good all-season if that is what you want, and (c) you want an M-mobility kit for the car (a sealant/pump combo for fixing flats). I am not sure if they would go for it, but it would be worth a try (assuming you don't want run-flats).
** also, never run a mix of run-flat and regular tires.

3. Never buy tires at the dealer unless they will match the installed prices (doubtful). BMW tends to stock expensive tires run-flat or not. Tirerack is excellent and I'm sure there are good local tire places.

Hope this helps.

[Newtobimmers]

@ alexckma thanks for the reply!

You say that BMWs are NOT reliable cars... you mean they often have computer problems or mechanical problems?

What kind of problems did you have with your radio in the 128i?

Thanks

[Newtobimmers]

@ amancuso thanks for the reply!

Noob question... what's the footwell module for?

[Newtobimmers]

@ tritonx thanks for the reply!

1. So the engine in the 128i is an inline 6 which is coded N52 right? No problems like the N55 HPFP problems right? In your opinion, is it worth it to go for the extended warranty? Do BMWs have many problems after the 4th year when the warranty is over?

2. Is it true that BMWs hold their value better over time than other cars? In other words, they depreciate less?

3. I am over 25, with a clean record and with Statefarm. If you don't mind me asking, how much do you have to pay monthly for your 128i?

I live in Toronto. You?

Thanks!

[Newtobimmers]

@ Artmasterx thanks for the reply!

Ah... so its seems that the 128i is much reliable than the 135i. But the new 135i has the N54 engine instead of the N55, right?

Thanks for the advice about the run-flats. Are they standard in the 128i? Do they tend to die faster than non-runflat tires?

I get the 17" Wheel A/S style 262 but If I choose the M package, I get the 17" M wheel, perf RFT style 207M. Are the Michelin Pilot sport PS2 better than these?

Thanks!

[Artmasterx]

Originally Posted by Newtobimmers

@ Artmasterx thanks for the reply!

Ah... so its seems that the 128i is much reliable than the 135i. But the new 135i has the N54 engine instead of the N55, right?

Thanks for the advice about the run-flats. Are they standard in the 128i? Do they tend to die faster than non-runflat tires?

I get the 17" Wheel A/S style 262 but If I choose the M package, I get the 17" M wheel, perf RFT style 207M. Are the Michelin Pilot sport PS2 better than these?

Thanks!

The 135i has had the N54 engine in the past, but I think the new ones (starting in 2011?) have the N55. I can't say if the HPFP issues have been sorted out in the N55 or not. The 135i engine if just more complicated, so there will be a greater likelihood of problems. However, that doesn't necessarily mean that it would be a bad choice. Turbocharged engines generally need to be maintained more rigorously (in general) than a typical NA engine.

Run-flats are standard on pretty much all non-M BMWs and they no longer include spare tires in most cars. From a performance point of view, run flat tires are generally fine for everyday-use. The stock BMW ones also tend to have a low treadwear rating, so they wear out quickly. My problems with them are:
1. They are very expensive. One tire often runs $250 - 350 here in the US. I purchase some General Exclaim UHP tires to replace mine and they were excellent everyday tire and only cost $95 each, had better treadwear, better reviews, better hydroplane resistance, but probably a bit less dry traction.

2. They ride rough due to the stiff side walls and also tend to tramline more (follow ridges/grooves in the road). Some people say runflats offer sharper turn-in response due to the stiff side wall, which may be true, but will not be noticed by most.

3. If you hit a pothole, you have a higher probability of damaging your rim because the stiff side wall transmits more force to the rim.

4. Some places will not repair punctures in runflat tires (BMW will not, so they will try to sell you a new $300+ tire because of a nail hole). Some independent shops will.

5. Maybe run-flats have improved in the last 3 years, but generally they are a poor compromise. You trade a more comfortable ride, larger tire selection, and longer tread life for the ability to drive on the flat tire. In most situations, you would probably call for a tow anyway, so there is really limited benefit. Also, if you really have a blow-out, a runflat will rarely help because the tire comes off the rim anyway. You can even get a space-saver spare or a mobility kit (I bought the Continental one from Tirerack) to give more piece of mind.


A Michelin PS2 will be better than any stock BMW tire from a non-M car. PS2 have a short tread life, but are excellent tires. Whatever you end up doing, runflat or not, I would probably look at Tirerack to see what the best tires are. You can even get a PS2 runflat if you are willing to pay for it, and it would be a good tire except for the rougher ride.

You will enjoy the car regardless.

[MD Designs]

128i... Well 135i is Bullet proof.... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554085

[tritonx]

Originally Posted by Newtobimmers

@ tritonx thanks for the reply!

1. So the engine in the 128i is an inline 6 which is coded N52 right? No problems like the N55 HPFP problems right? In your opinion, is it worth it to go for the extended warranty? Do BMWs have many problems after the 4th year when the warranty is over?

2. Is it true that BMWs hold their value better over time than other cars? In other words, they depreciate less?

3. I am over 25, with a clean record and with Statefarm. If you don't mind me asking, how much do you have to pay monthly for your 128i?

I live in Toronto. You?

Thanks!

1. Yes they call it the N52, all model that end with 28 share almost the same engine, being replace slowly by a 4 cyl turbo in the future. I wouldn't go for the extended warranty. It will probably cost the same or more over time than the repair it will cover. If something has to fail critically, it will be before the warranty is over. BMW's engine have a good durability reputation, I wouldn't worry about the engine, just keeping your maintenance up to date.

2. They still depreciate a lot in the first year, like any new car. But it still keeps a good value.

3. I pay less than 150$/month and that include my 1992 325is. I live in Quebec city.

[JimD]

I really like my 128i convertible. In two years, the radio has failed to recognize the aux input 3 times. Each time it worked fine the next time I started it. That is the closest to a problem I have had. I just listened to the radio. I've also had to take it back a couple times for minor recalls (a seat belt issue and a tail light issue) but combined the trips with a free oil change. I will have to take it in a couple weeks from now to have the convertible top replaced. There are a few threads lose and BMW wants to replace it rather than find somebody to fix it. I've had to have more issues fixed than with my other car, a Japanese SUV, but I enjoy it a lot more too.

I will probably replace my run-flats with non-run flats when they wear out. Due to driving two cars, I only have a little under 14,000 miles on my 128i. Tires will probably go at least one more year of my low mileage driving. If you have to buy it yourself, the Continental kit is probably cheaper than the BMW version. I currently just carry a 12V compressor (a Viair which I recommend, powerful, quiet and reasonable (about $50)). In almost 40 years driving, all I've ever had on a car tire is slow leaks.

Jim

[Newtobimmers]

Originally Posted by Artmasterx

The 135i has had the N54 engine in the past, but I think the new ones (starting in 2011?) have the N55. I can't say if the HPFP issues have been sorted out in the N55 or not. The 135i engine if just more complicated, so there will be a greater likelihood of problems. However, that doesn't necessarily mean that it would be a bad choice. Turbocharged engines generally need to be maintained more rigorously (in general) than a typical NA engine.

Run-flats are standard on pretty much all non-M BMWs and they no longer include spare tires in most cars. From a performance point of view, run flat tires are generally fine for everyday-use. The stock BMW ones also tend to have a low treadwear rating, so they wear out quickly. My problems with them are:
1. They are very expensive. One tire often runs $250 - 350 here in the US. I purchase some General Exclaim UHP tires to replace mine and they were excellent everyday tire and only cost $95 each, had better treadwear, better reviews, better hydroplane resistance, but probably a bit less dry traction.

2. They ride rough due to the stiff side walls and also tend to tramline more (follow ridges/grooves in the road). Some people say runflats offer sharper turn-in response due to the stiff side wall, which may be true, but will not be noticed by most.

3. If you hit a pothole, you have a higher probability of damaging your rim because the stiff side wall transmits more force to the rim.

4. Some places will not repair punctures in runflat tires (BMW will not, so they will try to sell you a new $300+ tire because of a nail hole). Some independent shops will.

5. Maybe run-flats have improved in the last 3 years, but generally they are a poor compromise. You trade a more comfortable ride, larger tire selection, and longer tread life for the ability to drive on the flat tire. In most situations, you would probably call for a tow anyway, so there is really limited benefit. Also, if you really have a blow-out, a runflat will rarely help because the tire comes off the rim anyway. You can even get a space-saver spare or a mobility kit (I bought the Continental one from Tirerack) to give more piece of mind.


A Michelin PS2 will be better than any stock BMW tire from a non-M car. PS2 have a short tread life, but are excellent tires. Whatever you end up doing, runflat or not, I would probably look at Tirerack to see what the best tires are. You can even get a PS2 runflat if you are willing to pay for it, and it would be a good tire except for the rougher ride.

You will enjoy the car regardless.

Wow! Thanks for the very detailed reply. I really appreciate your input. You do have many valid points about the disadvantages of run-flats. I will keep in mind your recommendations on the Michelin PS2 and General Exclaim UHP tires. But they are so many tires for the 128i coupe when I search 1010tires or tirerack...

I live in Toronto, Canada so I have to deal with winter here. What do you recommend in terms of the tires? Should I ask them to give me SUMMER tires instead of the run-flats and then get winter tires with rims in the winter time or get ALL-Season tires and just get maybe rims for the winter?

Thank you very much for your response.

[Newtobimmers]

Originally Posted by MD Designs

128i... Well 135i is Bullet proof.... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554085

That's why I am getting the 128i... I really don't need that much power and it's not worth it to pay 7K+ for the 135i...

Thanks for the response

[Newtobimmers]

Originally Posted by tritonx

1. Yes they call it the N52, all model that end with 28 share almost the same engine, being replace slowly by a 4 cyl turbo in the future. I wouldn't go for the extended warranty. It will probably cost the same or more over time than the repair it will cover. If something has to fail critically, it will be before the warranty is over. BMW's engine have a good durability reputation, I wouldn't worry about the engine, just keeping your maintenance up to date.

2. They still depreciate a lot in the first year, like any new car. But it still keeps a good value.

3. I pay less than 150$/month and that include my 1992 325is. I live in Quebec city.

I see. You must have many, many years of driving experience with a clean record if you are paying so little for 2 cars. You mind telling me the name of your insurance company? I am with Statefarm and it's expensive!

Thanks!

[Newtobimmers]

Originally Posted by JimD

I really like my 128i convertible. In two years, the radio has failed to recognize the aux input 3 times. Each time it worked fine the next time I started it. That is the closest to a problem I have had. I just listened to the radio. I've also had to take it back a couple times for minor recalls (a seat belt issue and a tail light issue) but combined the trips with a free oil change. I will have to take it in a couple weeks from now to have the convertible top replaced. There are a few threads lose and BMW wants to replace it rather than find somebody to fix it. I've had to have more issues fixed than with my other car, a Japanese SUV, but I enjoy it a lot more too.

I will probably replace my run-flats with non-run flats when they wear out. Due to driving two cars, I only have a little under 14,000 miles on my 128i. Tires will probably go at least one more year of my low mileage driving. If you have to buy it yourself, the Continental kit is probably cheaper than the BMW version. I currently just carry a 12V compressor (a Viair which I recommend, powerful, quiet and reasonable (about $50)). In almost 40 years driving, all I've ever had on a car tire is slow leaks.

Jim

Wow! So your stock run-flats are only going to last you about 3 years and about 21k miles? They do wear out rather quick. Which non-run flats you planning on getting for your 128i?

Thanks for the response Jim.

[1VOM]

I'm approaching the 50k mile mark on my 2009 128i. Never had a problem with it and have loved everything about the car (except the rubber) as soon as I picked up the car I swapped out the tires because I hated the RF's. BMW's have been a longtime staple in my family and although they can be costly to repair they hold up extremely well. With proper maintenance little if any problems should arise unless there was a preexisting problem and that is something that would more than likely show up within the warranty period.

[Greenkirby21]

Hi and welcome

The 128i is an amazing car, and the reason why I love it is because no other car really comes close to it. Here were some options I considered

GTI is pretty much the only other option, but it is FWD. The fun factor is definately there and looks great.

Lexus IS250 - too soft, doesn't feel sporty at all, small engine, feels like a good driver for your wife who doesn't care about sports car.

The only competition in terms of price and performance is a 370z, but that is a 2 seater so not really a fair comparison. I use my 128i as a daily driver, and it is fantastic for everything it does. Has more then enough power, seats 4, and gets pretty good gas mileage.

As for issues, here are some of them

ticking noise in engine(older models, not harmful but people don't like it. I believe BMW replaces the lifters and it affects older models only)

seatbelt/tail light recall, for all 1 series, I don't think affects 2011 or 2012 models.

broken tail light - happens if you open and close the trunk too much, the light is not glued on correctly and will crack due to the force. Mine completely came off but BMW knows of this and replaced it for you, and they drill the light in as well.

Here are a few personal ones:

Whenever it is 100 degrees+(I live in texas), the radio is hard to read. its as if the LCD screen is burned and everything is blurry and pixelated. It goes away after the AC makes the temp go lower.

I got recall done for new seatbelt tensioners, and ever since then, my sensor goes off telling me I have someone sitting besides me. However, this is not common at all and is likely due to whoever did the recall made a mistake.

So, in terms of reliability, the engine is very solid. You might run into a few small problems, but nothing major. If you get new anyways, everything will be covered : )

if you have any more questions feel free to ask

update:

my runflats only lasted 12k miles xD. I got hankook ventus V12 and couldn't be happier. They only cost about 700 dollars. I have BMW assist so if I get a flat, I will get them to come save me .

[Artmasterx]

Originally Posted by Newtobimmers

Wow! Thanks for the very detailed reply. I really appreciate your input. You do have many valid points about the disadvantages of run-flats. I will keep in mind your recommendations on the Michelin PS2 and General Exclaim UHP tires. But they are so many tires for the 128i coupe when I search 1010tires or tirerack...

I live in Toronto, Canada so I have to deal with winter here. What do you recommend in terms of the tires? Should I ask them to give me SUMMER tires instead of the run-flats and then get winter tires with rims in the winter time or get ALL-Season tires and just get maybe rims for the winter?

Thank you very much for your response.

Well, I suppose in Toronto you are in the part of Canada that gets real winters. Most people, including myself (I lived in Boston when I had the 128i), would recommend a second set of wheels/tires for snow because all-seasons tend to be more 3-season tires (good when its rainy or cold, but not in snow/ice). You could probably get by with all-seasons if you can drive another car if it is actually snowy (or is you were putting them on an AWD car).

The best place to see about tires is the Survey Results from Tirerack:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp

First you need to understand your needs. If you are not going to be driving like a maniac or racing/auto-crossing, then you have a huge range to choose from.

If you pick a tire near the top of the lists, then you will likely be happy. For my summer tires, I choose the Exclaim UHP because they have a reasonable treadwear rating (380), good hydroplane resistance, were cheap, and rank high on the survey. I could tell that they didn't have the level of grip of max/extreme performance tires, but they were great for every day use. (i also had some Goodyear GS-D3 that had much more grip).

Just decide how much you want to spend and then go find a suitable tire. The Hankook V12 mentioned above also has good reviews (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/survey...ay.jsp?type=MP) for a reasonable price.

For snow tires, there are a lot of decent options. If you get a lot of snow, then you may want a true snow tire, like Blizzak WS-60. If it is mainly cold weather and not so much driving in snow, then a performance winter is probably the better option. You can see some here:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/survey...sp?type=W&VT=C

If you have any questions, you can always ask Gill@Tirerack (he is a user on here, check the tire forum). He has always been super helpful to people on here and can help you make a tire decision once you figure out what is important to you (price/performance/treadwear/etc).

[Newtobimmers]

Thank you all for all the responses, especially Artmasterx!

Do you guys recommend a different set of rims too when switching to winter tires? or can I just use the same stock rims?

[tritonx]

Originally Posted by Newtobimmers

Thank you all for all the responses, especially Artmasterx!

Do you guys recommend a different set of rims too when switching to winter tires? or can I just use the same stock rims?

Long term it will be easier and cheaper with two sets of wheel, mounting and unmounting runflats is more expensive than normal tires. Even though my car came with the staggered 18" I got myself some nice square 17" Motegi MR118 for winter, any winter tire should do the job, I got the cheapest I could find and didn't had any problems and I did a lot of driving even during storms with ice and snow. I'd avoid driving in a big storm as much as you can though, as I do with any vehicule.