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      11-29-2010, 06:46 PM   #1
Eccentric
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Rear Camber

I was looking at the new 1M spy shots and couldnt help but notice that it has great looking rear camber I'm stock, but i want to see some of your most insane neg-rear pics
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      11-29-2010, 07:23 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eccentric View Post
I was looking at the new 1M spy shots and couldnt help but notice that it has great looking rear camber I'm stock, but i want to see some of your most insane neg-rear pics
Heres about a -2.8 rear camber after the wheel asorbed a tree strike...




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      11-29-2010, 07:43 PM   #3
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The Z4 already has some wicked tire eating camber and you want more?
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      11-29-2010, 07:52 PM   #4
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still a noob at posting pics but this looks awesome imo. http://image.motortrend.com/f/308149...e-rear-end.jpg
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      11-30-2010, 07:16 AM   #5
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our cars have about the same amount IMO

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      11-30-2010, 08:17 AM   #6
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our cars have about the same amount IMO]
i guess youre right, maybe the ride height makes the 1er look more radical out back. r u running stock?
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      11-30-2010, 09:23 AM   #7
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yup, all stock suspension. Going to be installing Dinan springs and Ground Conrtol/Koni Yellow shocks and struts this winter, but now, all suspension is as it rolled off the line...

That pic has the RAC wheels on it, rears are 285s, but it still shows the camber the same as with stock wheels. I think you visually notice the camber on this car better if you squat down and look at it from 20+ feet behind the car. Something about the body lines, it doesn't look like it's cambered much when you look at it from a standing position.
here's another:
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      11-30-2010, 09:44 AM   #8
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Rears are -2 factory right ? Can it go -1 to save tire wear ? I dont drive agressive so I'm thinking of getting them more towards -1 if possible.
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      11-30-2010, 10:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebluemcm View Post

That pic has the RAC wheels on it, rears are 285s
Wow those are fat- can you still kick the tail out or were you more into outright grip?
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      11-30-2010, 11:45 AM   #10
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definitely out for more grip all around, and with 255 front, 285 rear, massive grip it has. I gained 2 inches in contact patch width in the rear, one full inch wider on each side, and just under that much up front. Thing of it is, the fronts rub, so I'm looking at downsizing to a 245/40 from the 255/40. The 245/40 stays closer to the side wall height of the 285/35 on the rears, otherwise I'd think about the 255/35 up front - it just has a substantially smaller side wall height than the 285 and would look

Honestly, I haven't fooled around with this car much as far as fish tailing, etc. I live smack dab in the center of the county literally a mile and a half from the county police HQ, and with my luck, the first time I tried anything fun/stoopid I'd be the one getting nailed.

But, on country roads, it brings the saying "it drives like it's on rails" to a whole new level. It was easy to run out of road with the stock tires, with the increased width, there is now a whole new need to get it on a track.....
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      11-30-2010, 11:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eccentric View Post
Wow those are fat- can you still kick the tail out or were you more into outright grip?
I have 275s on the rear and it has no problem breaking them loose...but the 4.10 diff might have something to do with it
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      11-30-2010, 01:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstratos View Post
Rears are -2 factory right ? Can it go -1 to save tire wear ? I dont drive agressive so I'm thinking of getting them more towards -1 if possible.
Do they have THAT much camber? I didn't know.
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      11-30-2010, 02:27 PM   #13
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I think factory is -1.5 in the rear, and about the same for the fronts.
I'm currently running -3 fronts with "0" toe; -2.2 rears with 3/16" toe-in as recommended by a local BMW race shop.
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      11-30-2010, 04:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfanatic325 View Post
I think factory is -1.5 in the rear, and about the same for the fronts.
I'm currently running -3 fronts with "0" toe; -2.2 rears with 3/16" toe-in as recommended by a local BMW race shop.
Yeah, you can get -1.5 in the front if you pull the pins. I think they're probably half that from the factory, though.
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      11-30-2010, 04:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esqu1re View Post
Yeah, you can get -1.5 in the front if you pull the pins. I think they're probably half that from the factory, though.
OHhh now that you mention it, yeah you're right. I recall mentioning of pulling pins just to get to -1.5
In which case, it's IMPOSSIBLE for stock to be anywhere close to -2
Glad we've come to a consensus
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      11-30-2010, 04:31 PM   #16
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wait, wait, wait....

front or rear - yes, I've heard pull pins up front to get in the -1.5 to -1.8 range.

A few posts up though, I thought he was referring to -2 degrees in the rear. So what is it for the rear?

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      11-30-2010, 08:15 PM   #17
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In my experience you don't need a lot of negative camber on this car. In fact you want the rear to rotate relatively easily. It's counter-intuitive to a typical sedan.

Currently running these specs on KW v3s & Falken 452s with excellent results:

Front: -2.6 Camber, caster 6.0L/6.2R, toe-in 3/32"
Rear: -1.6 Camber, 1/32" toe-in
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      11-30-2010, 08:57 PM   #18
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interesting responses guys haha i guess no one wanted to post pics
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      11-30-2010, 09:46 PM   #19
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Running conservative on my Z4M with a 1 inch drop.

My E46 M3 I recall is running -3.5 and -3.6 in the rear. Forgot the front though.
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      11-30-2010, 10:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eccentric View Post
interesting responses guys haha i guess no one wanted to post pics
lol I would post pix, but the only ones I have are from before I got suspension done =P
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      11-30-2010, 10:25 PM   #21
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lol I would post pix, but the only ones I have are from before I got suspension done =P
ha no worries- the one pic on the thread looked cool enough to me
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