Engine out of timing. How bad is it?

[Adcampo]

I got the drivetrain malfunction error and CEL. Just heard from the dealer and they want $4250 to diagnose the issue. 20+ hours to tear down the top end. Yesterday I got two dreaded codes - 130E20 and 130F20.

2018 M3 Comp, 6 speed with 44k miles. Bootmod3 stage 1.

I don't think I can swallow $4k plus in repairs, I'm going to try and work a deal on a new car. I can be 3rd in line for a G80 manual.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by Adcampo

I got the drivetrain malfunction error and CEL. Just heard from the dealer and they want $4250 to diagnose the issue. 20+ hours to tear down the top end. Yesterday I got two dreaded codes - 130E20 and 130F20.

2018 M3 Comp, 6 speed with 44k miles. Bootmod3 stage 1.

I don't think I can swallow $4k plus in repairs, I'm going to try and work a deal on a new car. I can be 3rd in line for a G80 manual.

No local BMW indy shop you can get an opinion from?

[JAI///M3]

Did you money shift it? If not, there’s a good chance it just needs to have the timing reset. Might as well install a pinned crank hub at the same time. Cost may be about the same though all said and done.

Def recommend a second opinion from a trusted indy shop

[Adcampo]

Originally Posted by JAI///M3

Did you money shift it? If not, there’s a good chance it just needs to have the timing reset. Might as well install a pinned crank hub at the same time. Cost may be about the same though all said and done.

Def recommend a second opinion from a trusted indy shop

I think I may have just hit the rev limiter not a money shift. I don’t really remember anything that dramatic. I think it’s just out of timing. It’s running and idling fine. No metal in the oil. Power is in limp mode.

The dealer said they won’t know what and if anything they are willing to cover until they see what’s the issue.

I may get a second opinion from an Indy. I’m assuming resetting the time is still a ton of labor?

[r0wr]

Originally Posted by Adcampo

I don't think I can swallow $4k plus in repairs, I'm going to try and work a deal on a new car. I can be 3rd in line for a G80 manual.

You can't swallow $4k plus in repairs yet you want to buy another brand new car?

[aa2033]

Originally Posted by r0wr

You can't swallow $4k plus in repairs yet you want to buy another brand new car?

I thought this too

OP, a Indy shop will have a much lower mechanical rate than a dealer.

[Adcampo]

Originally Posted by r0wr

You can't swallow $4k plus in repairs yet you want to buy another brand new car?

I’ve been itching to get a new car. Regardless, I’m going to have to fix the car in order to sell it.

Waiting to hear back from a local Indy shop.

[Adcampo]

I found a highly rated local shop used by a few Bimmerpost members for SSR 4 pin instal. Based on what I read, I expect the price will be $5.5k all in.

How bad am I if I clear the codes and try and sell it to CarMax?

[BeemerBoss]

Someone called me last week about this issue. He had his car by and independent where they changed the timing chain guides and pulley, oil pump and cam sensors. Car rough idles and gets multiple misfire codes. Owner was in tears and wanted to get at the indy for incompetence. Begged me to re-time the engine with the Indy.
yesterday I eventually pulled the codes from my dumb scanners and spent about an hour with the indy discussing what was done and looking at values. Spent about 6 hours straight last night looking at the diagrams.
took about 45 minutes to resolve the issue when i got back to the indy.
Unless the engine is rattling ,130f20 is not the real code.
What have you done so far?

[Adcampo]

Originally Posted by BeemerBoss

Someone called me last week about this issue. He had his car by and independent where they changed the timing chain guides and pulley, oil pump and cam sensors. Car rough idles and gets multiple misfire codes. Owner was in tears and wanted to get at the indy for incompetence. Begged me to re-time the engine with the Indy.
yesterday I eventually pulled the codes from my dumb scanners and spent about an hour with the indy discussing what was done and looking at values. Spent about 6 hours straight last night looking at the diagrams.
took about 45 minutes to resolve the issue when i got back to the indy.
Unless the engine is rattling ,130f20 is not the real code.
What have you done so far?

No work has started. The dealer cleared the codes a few times and they come back. Car runs smooth once started. It takes an extra second or two of cranking to start though. I’ve decided to have the dealer just repair it. In talking with the the SA, I’m hopeful BMW may help once the tear it down. A very reputable local Indy shop quoted me $5600-$6500 for the 4 pin repair. I intend on selling onve it’s fixed and don’t want to spend the extra money.

[G35POPPEDMYCHERRY]

guaranteed this guy underwater

[BeemerBoss]

Originally Posted by Adcampo

No work has started. The dealer cleared the codes a few times and they come back. Car runs smooth once started. It takes an extra second or two of cranking to start though. I’ve decided to have the dealer just repair it. In talking with the the SA, I’m hopeful BMW may help once the tear it down. A very reputable local Indy shop quoted me $5600-$6500 for the 4 pin repair. I intend on selling onve it’s fixed and don’t want to spend the extra money.

1. Change vanos solenoids
2. clear vanos calibration with capabke tool.

[AlmondJayRoM3]

Originally Posted by Adcampo

I think I may have just hit the rev limiter not a money shift. I don’t really remember anything that dramatic. I think it’s just out of timing. It’s running and idling fine. No metal in the oil. Power is in limp mode.

The dealer said they won’t know what and if anything they are willing to cover until they see what’s the issue.

I may get a second opinion from an Indy. I’m assuming resetting the time is still a ton of labor?

Did you go into the wrong gear and release the clutch? Because if you did, you just did a “money shift.” Whole lot different than just bouncing off the redline.

[Doctor X]

Originally Posted by AlmondJayRoM3

Did you go into the wrong gear and release the clutch? Because if you did, you just did a “money shift.” Whole lot different than just bouncing off the redline.

I'm still confused on what happened myself lol

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by G35POPPEDMYCHERRY

guaranteed this guy underwater

LOL. Better stick with a Toyota Corolla or a Honda Civic.

[Adcampo]

I got my car back. It skipped 3 teeth on timing. Re-timed it, replaced the vanos solenoid bolts, torqued everything down and called it good. All for only $4k.

Now I’ll sell it.