Camber plate adjustment?

Theruleslawyer · 06-01-2022, 07:11 PM

So this might be a dumb question, but how do I adjust the plates once they are on the car? I have a set of vorshlag plates i just put on and i cant get them to move. Wheels up, wheels down, one up. Loosen them up and nothing.

Suds · 06-01-2022, 08:24 PM

I have always had a shop adjust mine while they were doing the front end alignment.

uncle ben · 06-01-2022, 08:36 PM

I adjusted mine after a track day. Make sure there is no weight on the wheels, loosen the 4 adjustment screws. Then push the top of the tire in/out depending on your desired outcome. If it’s too hard, try removing the wheel and just push directly on the strut assembly.

SYT_Shadow · 06-01-2022, 09:04 PM

Loosen the 4 adjustment screws that are inside the camber plate. Don't try to remove them, just loosen them.

Make sure the wheel you are adjusting is fully in the air before starting

Once in the air and with the screws loose, the camber plate will try to go to less camber. If you had it at -3, it will try to go to the -1 position once loose.
If you had it at -1, it probably won't move by itself as it's already at the min. At this point, either remove the wheel and grab the shaft with your hand and push 'in' towards the engine and it'll move, OR leave the wheel on and press inwards with your knee/leg directly on the wheel.

You have to overcome the inertia of the wheel/tire/shock and all the stiction in the system

pilotedecourse · 06-02-2022, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Loosen the 4 adjustment screws that are inside the camber plate. Don't try to remove them, just loosen them.

Make sure the wheel you are adjusting is fully in the air before starting

Once in the air and with the screws loose, the camber plate will try to go to less camber. If you had it at -3, it will try to go to the -1 position once loose.
If you had it at -1, it probably won't move by itself as it's already at the min. At this point, either remove the wheel and grab the shaft with your hand and push 'in' towards the engine and it'll move, OR leave the wheel on and press inwards with your knee/leg directly on the wheel.

You have to overcome the inertia of the wheel/tire/shock and all the stiction in the system

This, and in addition:

When you have your alignment done, have your shop mark where their setting is (and what it is) or do it yourself once you leave so you can know where you are relative to your "default."

Retorque to 24.5 nm/ 18ft-lb when done. 4 screws are 6mm hex.

D_SheerDrivingPleasure · 06-03-2022, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle ben

I adjusted mine after a track day. Make sure there is no weight on the wheels, loosen the 4 adjustment screws. Then push the top of the tire in/out depending on your desired outcome. If it’s too hard, try removing the wheel and just push directly on the strut assembly.

Most of the time I'm only able to get 3 of the 4 adjustment screws perfectly aligned into the holes. Are others experiencing this? On GC plates.

SYT_Shadow · 06-03-2022, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Most of the time I'm only able to get 3 of the 4 adjustment screws perfectly aligned into the holes. Are others experiencing this? On GC plates.

Yes, that's pretty normal. Sometimes I can only get two in. No issues so far

FaRKle! · 06-03-2022, 09:01 AM

It helps to use a pry tool to move the assembly that holds the monoball. If you try to adjust camber with the wheels down (like while on the alignment rack - you'll need to be on slip plates to do this) the camber slider will naturally want to move towards higher camber.

MineralWhiteF80 · 06-06-2022, 10:15 AM

With my vorshlag plates, it is pretty easy to slide the plates in or out if the wheels are off the ground, even with the wheels on.

In my "race" camber setting (-3.0*), if I lift the front wheels off the ground and loosen the four camber plate lock bolts, the plate/strut automatically falls to the outside end of the adjustment range just from the weight of the wheel/brake/knuckle assembly. If the car is resting on its own weight and I loosen the lock bolts, the camber plate will slide to the inner 'maximum' camber side of the adjustment range.

The Vorshlag plates are interesting because there are two 'major' positions you can set the actual plate in. If I have the plate in the outer 'major' position, I cant move the plate in enough to get to -3.0*. I have to have the plate in the inner 'major' position to get -3.0, but then the least camber I can get is -2.04*.

My "race" setting at -3.0* in the inner 'major' plate adjustment range is very close to the dead middle, which seems like the total available range of the Vorshlag plate for me is -2.0 to maybe a hair over -4.0 degrees. I have a small etch in the red aluminum plate body at my race setting so it is very fast and easy to go from my "street" setting of adjusted all the way to the outside to pushing the strut/plate inward to my etch mark and then lock down the four bolts. Both sides of my car show -2.04* when the plates are adjusted fully 'out'.

D_SheerDrivingPleasure · 06-06-2022, 03:09 PM

My ground control plates seem to have 3 settings, but toe changes with camber so the range of adjustability is really limited to -2.0 for street and -3.0 for track use.

Shown here is what happens to camber and toe when a dumbass (me) accidentally adjusts the plates to the most aggressive position instead of the correct track setting. Duh

06-01-2022, 07:11 PM	#1
Theruleslawyer Captain 1019 Rep 836 Posts Drives: 2019 m4 Join Date: Apr 2022 Location: Chicagoland iTrader: (0)	Camber plate adjustment? So this might be a dumb question, but how do I adjust the plates once they are on the car? I have a set of vorshlag plates i just put on and i cant get them to move. Wheels up, wheels down, one up. Loosen them up and nothing.
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06-01-2022, 08:24 PM	#2
Suds /M Enthusiast 1599 Rep 1,619 Posts Drives: Responsiblish Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lone Star State iTrader: (1)	I have always had a shop adjust mine while they were doing the front end alignment. __________________ 2019 M2 Comp, Alpine White, DCT, track car build, 1/2 cage, AP Racing Brakes & Nitron Coilovers, BM3 Stage 1 93 Oct. 2018 Porsche Cayman GTS, Night Blue Metalic, PDK, COBB tuned 93 Oct. 2004 Audi A4 Avant USP 6mt, RS4 clutch, built motor, Garrett GT3071r "Big Ass Turbo" Motoza Tune
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06-01-2022, 08:36 PM	#3
uncle ben Captain 293 Rep 624 Posts Drives: 06 330i Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Edmonton iTrader: (0)	I adjusted mine after a track day. Make sure there is no weight on the wheels, loosen the 4 adjustment screws. Then push the top of the tire in/out depending on your desired outcome. If it’s too hard, try removing the wheel and just push directly on the strut assembly.
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06-01-2022, 09:04 PM	#4
SYT_Shadow ///M Powered for Life 11490 Rep 10,329 Posts Drives: E90M/E92M/M4GTS/M4GT4/X5M Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Greenwich, CT iTrader: (2)	Loosen the 4 adjustment screws that are inside the camber plate. Don't try to remove them, just loosen them. Make sure the wheel you are adjusting is fully in the air before starting Once in the air and with the screws loose, the camber plate will try to go to less camber. If you had it at -3, it will try to go to the -1 position once loose. If you had it at -1, it probably won't move by itself as it's already at the min. At this point, either remove the wheel and grab the shaft with your hand and push 'in' towards the engine and it'll move, OR leave the wheel on and press inwards with your knee/leg directly on the wheel. You have to overcome the inertia of the wheel/tire/shock and all the stiction in the system __________________ DIY: S65 Rod Bearings E9X PFC Z54 BBK on F8X BK harness bar + seats: fit 6 tires in an M3 do88 Cooling Goodies GTS Twins: GTMore project
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06-03-2022, 09:01 AM	#8
FaRKle! Brigadier General 4017 Rep 3,540 Posts Drives: 328d Wagon, M2 Comp, i4 eD35 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (4) Garage List 2023 BMW i4 eDrive 35 [0.00] 2017 BMW 328dx Wagon [0.00] 2021 BMW M2 Competi ... [0.00]	It helps to use a pry tool to move the assembly that holds the monoball. If you try to adjust camber with the wheels down (like while on the alignment rack - you'll need to be on slip plates to do this) the camber slider will naturally want to move towards higher camber. __________________ -328d Wagon Build Log (with helpful reference links) -My YouTube Channel for some of the best DIYs and in depth information Please don't PM me for suspension recommendations unless interested in paid private consultations.
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06-06-2022, 10:15 AM	#9
MineralWhiteF80 Dont listen to me 795 Rep 562 Posts Drives: F82, E92 M3, G30 M550i, E46 Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Atlanta,Ga iTrader: (1)	With my vorshlag plates, it is pretty easy to slide the plates in or out if the wheels are off the ground, even with the wheels on. In my "race" camber setting (-3.0), if I lift the front wheels off the ground and loosen the four camber plate lock bolts, the plate/strut automatically falls to the outside end of the adjustment range just from the weight of the wheel/brake/knuckle assembly. If the car is resting on its own weight and I loosen the lock bolts, the camber plate will slide to the inner 'maximum' camber side of the adjustment range. The Vorshlag plates are interesting because there are two 'major' positions you can set the actual plate in. If I have the plate in the outer 'major' position, I cant move the plate in enough to get to -3.0. I have to have the plate in the inner 'major' position to get -3.0, but then the least camber I can get is -2.04. My "race" setting at -3.0 in the inner 'major' plate adjustment range is very close to the dead middle, which seems like the total available range of the Vorshlag plate for me is -2.0 to maybe a hair over -4.0 degrees. I have a small etch in the red aluminum plate body at my race setting so it is very fast and easy to go from my "street" setting of adjusted all the way to the outside to pushing the strut/plate inward to my etch mark and then lock down the four bolts. Both sides of my car show -2.04* when the plates are adjusted fully 'out'.
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06-06-2022, 03:09 PM	#10
D_SheerDrivingPleasure Captain 1094 Rep 920 Posts Drives: F80 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: NYC iTrader: (0)	My ground control plates seem to have 3 settings, but toe changes with camber so the range of adjustability is really limited to -2.0 for street and -3.0 for track use. Shown here is what happens to camber and toe when a dumbass (me) accidentally adjusts the plates to the most aggressive position instead of the correct track setting. Duh Attached Images
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