looking for DIY installing laser jammers

M3ILANA · 12-04-2018, 10:30 AM

can anyone who's done it walk thru your setup and biggest obstacles during an install? I'm assuming running thru firewall on 6 speed is biggest PITA with these? any other issues?

pmooiweer · 12-09-2018, 08:03 PM

Easiest area to get thru firewall is on the passenger side. There are a couple of rubber grommets, one of which is big enough to accommodate 3 sensor wires. The plastic tray under the windshield wiper is the hardest to remove to get access.

I installed a 3-sensor ALP (with TX sensor) in my kidney grilles. With a TX in the middle the two regular sensors can be mounted vertically. I installed my Control Box on the passenger side, right above the FEM ECU behind the plastic kick panel, and ran power wire to a switched fuse in the trunk fuse box. I used double sided tape to mount the the speaker (HiFi option) behind the switch panel for Lane Departure, Active Blindspot and Collision Warning. Also used double sided tape to mount the GPS antenna on top of the passenger side air vent duct (the plastic panels behind the door pop out and provide easy access + space for all cable slack, including GPS and sensor cables). I mounted the ALP HiFi Control Set inside the cigarette lighter storage compartment for a nice hidden and convenient location.

I didn't take pictures during the install, but can take a few of the finished work when I'm home next week if helpful; lemme know.

M3ILANA · 12-12-2018, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmooiweer

Easiest area to get thru firewall is on the passenger side. There are a couple of rubber grommets, one of which is big enough to accommodate 3 sensor wires. The plastic tray under the windshield wiper is the hardest to remove to get access.

I installed a 3-sensor ALP (with TX sensor) in my kidney grilles. With a TX in the middle the two regular sensors can be mounted vertically. I installed my Control Box on the passenger side, right above the FEM ECU behind the plastic kick panel, and ran power wire to a switched fuse in the trunk fuse box. I used double sided tape to mount the the speaker (HiFi option) behind the switch panel for Lane Departure, Active Blindspot and Collision Warning. Also used double sided tape to mount the GPS antenna on top of the passenger side air vent duct (the plastic panels behind the door pop out and provide easy access + space for all cable slack, including GPS and sensor cables). I mounted the ALP HiFi Control Set inside the cigarette lighter storage compartment for a nice hidden and convenient location.

I didn't take pictures during the install, but can take a few of the finished work when I'm home next week if helpful; lemme know.

that's exactly what I was looking for - some guidance on ALP setiup, thanks! debating whether to DIY or trust a shop (which I don't). Did you have to slice into any of the factory wiring? I'd like to make sure I don't have to have alter any of the harness. I won't need GPS antennae since I have V1 RD already and I will stick with 3 front sensors only like your. So I was hoping to avoid running any wires to the trunk, but I guess that's needed for power source.

How do you like it? Any live hits?

PS sounds like you've done very meticulous job - would love to see finished product when you have time.

pmooiweer · 12-12-2018, 11:38 AM

No need to slice into any factory wiring. Running a power wire into the trunk is pretty easy (~10-15 minutes) all of the plastic covers around the door sills simply pop off. I first tried tapping into the front fuse box, but couldn't fit an add-a-fuse fuse holder under the fuse box cover. The fuse box on the trunk doesn't have a cover, so much easier. I tapped into the Homelink fuse, which is a switched circuit.

The hardest things are (1) mounting the sensors and (2) running the wires thru the firewall. Everything else is just a matter of disassembling parts of the dash, which isn't hard and just takes some patience.

To get enough space for access to the firewall I removed the small plastic wiper drip tray on the passenger side. This tray is pretty hard to remove without taking lots of things apart (e.g. removing wipers for easier access). I wound up loosening the wiper cowl cover and shimmying the tray out. I tried both the passenger and driver side, and could not find a way to gain access to the firewall at the driver side. Even on the passenger side there's not enough space to reach the firewall grommet (there are two; you'll want the larger one). I used a wire snake from inside the passenger compartment to pull the sensor wires through the firewall. You probably first need to push a stiff wire (I used coat hanger wire) through the grommet from inside the engine compartment to figure out its location from inside the car (it is pretty far up behind the glove box, and covered with thick insulation).

I chose 2 regular plus 1 TX sensor, which allows them to be mounted in the kidney grilles. If you plan to use 2 regular sensors you'll have to mount them horizontally, which means somewhere on the bumper. This makes them much more noticeable and makes running the wires into the engine bay more difficult. See ALP blog for proper sensor positioning for BMW.

I highly recommend getting ISTA and studying the relevant disassembly instructions, e.g. wiper cowl cover fasteners, before starting work. The whole job took me around 10 hours over two days. I'll send some pics next week.

jmciver · 12-18-2018, 09:34 AM

I would be curious to know (and see a few pics if possible) of how you ran the sensor wires from the kidney grills to the firewall in order to prevent chafing of the wires. My initial look did not see an obvious path without taking things apart. Also, did you remove the bumper and/or kidney grills to install the sensors? Finally, what did you use to secure the sensors to the kidney grill - I have seen some use Suguru which seems like a good method due to its moldability.

For the OP, here is a link to an install on an F3X: https://www.rdforum.org/index.php?threads/74393/

More install research info (specifically for mounting stuff inside the cabin): https://www.adrenalineautosound.com/...-laser-system/

You can tell I have been thinking about this for a while

....

pmooiweer · 12-20-2018, 12:13 PM

Here are some pictures and observations from my ALP AntiLaser Priority install. My car wasn't exactly clean when I took the pictures, so pardon the dust that's visible in the closeups. I tried providing as much detail as I could without having to disassemble my car too much, but please feel free to reach out if you have any specific questions.

Sensor positioning:

I installed a 3-sensor (front-only) system, including two regular heads and a TX sensor. Use of a TX sensor allows the regular sensors to be mounted vertically, which means they can be attached to the kidney grilles. I first tried installing the sensors by removing the grilles, but found that it's impossible to align them properly that way. It wasn't easy, but I was able to slide enough of my hand in between the fins to properly install the sensors. Running the wires from behind the grilles into the engine compartment is easy; there's plenty of give in the rubber gaskets behind the grilles and space around the headlights.

View from front (left/driver side sensor is just below the ///M3 logo):

[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68510[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68511[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68507[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68508[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68509[/IMG]

Right Sensor:
I bent the ALP mounting bracket and used 3M mounting tape to essentially wrap it around and attach it to one of the grille fins (i.e. the bracket is mounted on the back side of the fin facing the sensor; the fins have a ridge that perfectly hides the bracket). After positioning the sensor properly, I used black Milliput epoxy putty to create a permanent wedge between the sensor bracket and grille fin, keeping it from moving (I used duct tape while the epoxy was curing); that's the greyish/black wedge you can see to the right of the sensor):
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68504[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68505[/IMG]

TX Sensor:
The TX sensor can be mounted at the top of the grille, between two fins, using the provided bracket. I simply bent it over, cut the excess, and mounted it using 3M tape. I ran the sensor wire behind the rubber gasket that sits behind the grille, from the top to the right/passenger side.
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68506[/IMG]

Left Sensor:
I mounted the left/driver side sensor similar to the right/passenger side sensor. To fit the sensor below the ///M3 logo, I removed the grille and used a Dremel bit to remove material from the bottom of the logo. Since it's at the bottom, this is not visible once the sensor is mounted.
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68502[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68501[/IMG]

Wire run:
I ran the wires to the right/passenger side, along the inside edge of the engine compartment (I blurred out my VIN with a blue marker).
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68513[/IMG]

Firewall access:
As I mentioned earlier, getting access to the grommets in the firewall is difficult. I used the passenger side, as I wanted to mount the ALP control unit behind the passenger side kick panel where the FEM ECU is housed.

The first hurdle to cross is removal of the passenger side wiper drip tray, which I've circled in yellow in the first picture. I found it can be wriggled out (with some force), after loosening the plastic wiper cowl cover and detaching the fuse box from the frame. The tray is attached to the frame with two bolts. See ISTA for fairly detailed instructions; follow the steps for wiper arm removal (if you have tools for wiper arm removal that would likely give you more space to work with).
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68503[/IMG]

After removing the drip tray and pushing the fuse box aside, you should be able to see three grommets in the firewall. There's the large one that is being used for the BMW wire loom, with two smaller ones above it. The one closer to the driver side is slightly larger than the other one, and provides enough room for the three ALP sensor wires. I removed that grommet, cut a hole in it, and ran the sensor wires through, one at a time. The sensor wires are more clearly visible in the second picture.
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68500[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68495[/IMG]

I then used wire from a white coat hanger to poke through the firewall from inside the engine compartment into the passenger footwell. After a few tries I could see the wire come through the firewall behind the glove box (it'll be way up; you may need to lie on your back in the passenger footwell to be able to see it). I then pulled a strong string through the firewall and used that to pull each of the sensor wires into the passenger footwell. After removing the wire slack in the engine compartment I reinstalled the grommet using a long screw driver wrapped in duct tape (to make it sticky enough to hold the grommet). I did not have enough space to be able to use my hands.

A bit hard to see, but this is where the wires enter the passenger compartment, behind the glove box:
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68515[/IMG]

Control unit install:
I installed the control unit just above the FEM ECU. To get access to that space, remove the passenger side door sill and kick panel (after removing the passenger side bottom dash cover). Both simply pull out.
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68493[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68492[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68491[/IMG]

I mounted the ALP control unit upside down above the FEM ECU and ran the USB cable into my glove box (for firmware updates):
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68490[/IMG]

GPS Antenna and Wire Slack:
I mounted my GPS antenna above the passenger side vent. I simply removed some of the door trim and the triangular cover on the side of the dash, and found enough space to store the sensor wire slack. It is also right above the area where I installed the ALP control unit, so convenient.
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68483[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68516[/IMG]

HiFi Speaker:
I mounted the speaker behind the switches for Lane Departure, etc., using 3M tape. The easiest way to get access to that is to first remove the driver side vent trim (simply pull) and then push the switch panel out from the inside, starting at the top.
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68481[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68480[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68479[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68478[/IMG]

ALP Control Set:
I wanted my control set to be hidden, yet easily accessible, so installed it in the cigarette lighter tray in the center console. To get access I removed the center trim cover pieces, switches and cup holders (see ISTA for instructions). I used a Dremel to enlarge one of the existing holes in the cigarette lighter tray. Running wires to and from this location is pretty easy and there's no need to disassemble much of the dash; simply removing some trim pieces is enough.
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68477[/IMG]
[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68476[/IMG]

jmciver · 12-20-2018, 01:11 PM

That is very impressive - best ALP DIY I have seen for the F3X/F8X platform - you just made my future install much easier

!! I especially like how you mounted the two RX/TX sensors in the grill by bending the brackets, essentially making a "clip" to mount them to the fins of the kidney grill - genius. A few quick questions...

1. If I understand you correctly, you did not need to completely remove the center console trim piece to install the ALP Control Set? I thought I would need to completely remove it from the car in order to modify it to hold the Control Set there.

2. Did you get any rattles by mounting the extra cable slack where you did? I was thinking about wrapping the wires in automotive Tesa tape to help with that. A bit overkill, but these cars already have more rattles than they should and I did not want to add to them.

3. Did you ever get your setup tested? I would think your setup would work fine against all of the top guns based on other research I have done though.

4. I assume you did not remove the glove box to get access to the grommet on the firewall from inside the car. If doing the install again would you remove the glove box for better access?

5. Where did you mount your LED?

6. To route the wiring for the speaker to the drivers side, did you need to remove the trim panel in the drive side footwell (below the steering column)?

And for the OP and others who want to attempt this, you don't need a copy of ISTA for the factory dissassembly procedures mentioned above. They can be found online as well. Here is one for removing the center console trim (the piece with the cup holders):

51 16 16 Removing and Installing Center Console Trim

pmooiweer · 12-20-2018, 02:19 PM

Thanks!

1. Yes, I removed everything I needed to be able to pull the cup holder unit. Not hard; the ISTA instructions are good and it just takes a bit of patience.

2. I used zip ties around the wires only. I found that the space behind the side panel is snug enough that nothing moves, so there's no noise, even on bumpy roads.

3. No; haven't seen something in the area. However, I've been hit with laser guns a couple of times while driving through NY and CT, and things seemed to work fine (i.e. no tickets...).

4. Nope. The glove box is a PITA to remove and more room for access to the firewall from inside wouldn't really help much. The inside firewall is covered in thick, carpet-like insulation, and I don't think you can see or feel where that grommet is. Also, the grommet is mounted from inside the engine compartment and can't be removed from inside the car.

5. I didn't mount the LED. I find that the speaker by itself provides enough feedback. If I also want to see an LED, I can simply leave the cover of the lighter compartment open.

6. Just the bottom panel. Like the passenger side, it's held in place by 2 nuts and is easy to remove. Access to that area allows you to zip tie the speaker cable.

jmciver · 12-20-2018, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmooiweer

Thanks!

1. Yes, I removed everything I needed to be able to pull the cup holder unit. Not hard; the ISTA instructions are good and it just takes a bit of patience.

2. I used zip ties around the wires only. I found that the space behind the side panel is snug enough that nothing moves, so there's no noise, even on bumpy roads.

3. No; haven't seen something in the area. However, I've been hit with laser guns a couple of times while driving through NY and CT, and things seemed to work fine (i.e. no tickets...).

4. Nope. The glove box is a PITA to remove and more room for access to the firewall from inside wouldn't really help much. The inside firewall is covered in thick, carpet-like insulation, and I don't think you can see or feel where that grommet is. Also, the grommet is mounted from inside the engine compartment and can't be removed from inside the car.

5. I didn't mount the LED. I find that the speaker by itself provides enough feedback. If I also want to see an LED, I can simply leave the cover of the lighter compartment open.

6. Just the bottom panel. Like the passenger side, it's held in place by 2 nuts and is easy to remove. Access to that area allows you to zip tie the speaker cable.

Thanks again. Regarding the LED, right now I plan to mount it on the upper steering column trim piece. That way, as you are looking at the gauge cluster through the steering wheel (or out the windshield) while driving, the LED will be in my line of sight. I even bought a clear LED holder to use, similar to what you might see on a professional electrical panel, so I don't have a simple LED poking a hole through the trim piece.

pmooiweer · 12-20-2018, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmciver

[
Thanks again. Regarding the LED, right now I plan to mount it on the upper steering column trim piece. That way, as you are looking at the gauge cluster through the steering wheel (or out the windshield) while driving, the LED will be in my line of sight. I even bought a clear LED holder to use, similar to what you might see on a professional electrical panel, so I don't have a simple LED poking a hole through the trim piece.

I considered mounting mine just above the HUD mirror to make it visible on the windshield, but I figured it'd be too distracting. You may want to consider taping it somewhere before permanently installing it, to make sure you want to continually see it.

jmciver · 12-21-2018, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmooiweer

I considered mounting mine just above the HUD mirror to make it visible on the windshield, but I figured it'd be too distracting. You may want to consider taping it somewhere before permanently installing it, to make sure you want to continually see it.

Good point. And is one of the reasons that I planned to have the LED configured so that it is either off or continuously on (vice blinking) while in standby mode. In your use of the system do you find there are a lot of false alarms, making the LED on the control set blink a lot (which would be very annoying)?

pmooiweer · 12-21-2018, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmciver

Good point. And is one of the reasons that I planned to have the LED configured so that it is either off or continuously on (vice blinking) while in standby mode. In your use of the system do you find there are a lot of false alarms, making the LED on the control set blink a lot (which would be very annoying)?

Some turnpike toll booths have some sort of speed check, setting off a Poliscan alarm, but I've had no false alarms at all. I have my control set LED blinking and dimmed, so I can see that the system is working and in the correct mode.

You could always set the remote LED to be off when in LID mode and on in all other modes, so you'll know when you're not protected.

jmciver · 12-21-2018, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmooiweer

You could always set the remote LED to be off when in LID mode and on in all other modes, so you'll know when you're not protected.

This is exactly what I was referring to regarding configuring the LED to be less annoying (i.e. flashing continuously), but still providing various system status. I actually have most of the ALP hardware for my install (minus the TX module) and I pre-configured/programmed my system on my dining room table not too long ago

. Your DIY help is more motivation for me to finally get moving with my install....

I actually configured my LED to be normally on, but dimmed - flashing/changing colors only when the system detects an alert.

It is good to hear that false alerts are not common with the ALP system. Out of curiosity, do you have the volume on the speaker cranked way up in order to hear the alerts under normal driving conditions, to include the radio being on? When I tested my system on my dining room table, I noticed the speaker was pretty loud - but in a car I expect things to be a bit different.

pmooiweer · 12-21-2018, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmciver

Out of curiosity, do you have the volume on the speaker cranked way up in order to hear the alerts under normal driving conditions, to include the radio being on? When I tested my system on my dining room table, I noticed the speaker was pretty loud - but in a car I expect things to be a bit different.

The speaker is pretty loud. I've set my master volume to 3 for my LID profile and to 2 for my other two profiles.

jmciver · 01-29-2019, 04:09 PM

Another quick question for you.... Do you remember about how long the "extra" cable length you had that you had to roll up under the dash? Or more specifically, do you think if you decided to install the CPU under the driver side dash (instead of next to the FEM), there would be enough cable length to get over to that side of the car?

pmooiweer · 01-29-2019, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmciver

Another quick question for you.... Do you remember about how long the "extra" cable length you had that you had to roll up under the dash? Or more specifically, do you think if you decided to install the CPU under the driver side dash (instead of next to the FEM), there would be enough cable length to get over to that side of the car?

Yes, there should be plenty of cable to run across the car. My guess is that I have between 4 and 6 feet of slack, and that's after running the sensor wires to the area next to the FEM.

rebel3 · 01-30-2019, 08:56 PM

I can't thank you enough for this DIY. I installed an ALP front only system and an Escort Max CI and this spelled everything out. Pulling the cables through the firewall was the biggest pain. I have dwarf hands and could access the grommet but I was worried that I was damaging the wires with the force I was using to pull the wires. But I did not experience any problems.

I installed the ALP head unit in the same place as you did. And I put the Escort head unit on the drivers side where you installed the speaker. Total install time was about 6 hours and I have never tried something like this before.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/al...ictureid=68950

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/al...ictureid=68951

pmooiweer · 02-01-2019, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rebel3

I can't thank you enough for this DIY. I installed an ALP front only system and an Escort Max CI and this spelled everything out. Pulling the cables through the firewall was the biggest pain. I have dwarf hands and could access the grommet but I was worried that I was damaging the wires with the force I was using to pull the wires. But I did not experience any problems.

Thanks for the kind words and good to see you found it helpful!

F30lciB58 · 01-13-2022, 10:40 PM

Do you think I should install anything in the rear? I’m debating in front only with the 3 sensor set up, or front and rear with 3 sensors each. And I’ll be mounting my controller above my head by my sunroof. So no one will ever know it’s there.

Jonzny · 01-17-2022, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmooiweer

I considered mounting mine just above the HUD mirror to make it visible on the windshield, but I figured it'd be too distracting. You may want to consider taping it somewhere before permanently installing it, to make sure you want to continually see it.

This is a cool idea, but probably not the best. Any cop will see the LED flashing from miles away at night.

FWIW I put mine in the air vent to the left of the steering wheel. Easy to close if i want to hide the light and cant reach for the control right away

12-04-2018, 10:30 AM	#1
M3ILANA Private 44 Rep 76 Posts Drives: BMW E36 Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Vero Beach iTrader: (0)	looking for DIY installing laser jammers can anyone who's done it walk thru your setup and biggest obstacles during an install? I'm assuming running thru firewall on 6 speed is biggest PITA with these? any other issues?
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12-09-2018, 08:03 PM	#2
pmooiweer Zymurgist 89 Rep 161 Posts Drives: 2018 BMW M3 (F80) Join Date: May 2012 Location: Philadelphia area iTrader: (0)	Easiest area to get thru firewall is on the passenger side. There are a couple of rubber grommets, one of which is big enough to accommodate 3 sensor wires. The plastic tray under the windshield wiper is the hardest to remove to get access. I installed a 3-sensor ALP (with TX sensor) in my kidney grilles. With a TX in the middle the two regular sensors can be mounted vertically. I installed my Control Box on the passenger side, right above the FEM ECU behind the plastic kick panel, and ran power wire to a switched fuse in the trunk fuse box. I used double sided tape to mount the the speaker (HiFi option) behind the switch panel for Lane Departure, Active Blindspot and Collision Warning. Also used double sided tape to mount the GPS antenna on top of the passenger side air vent duct (the plastic panels behind the door pop out and provide easy access + space for all cable slack, including GPS and sensor cables). I mounted the ALP HiFi Control Set inside the cigarette lighter storage compartment for a nice hidden and convenient location. I didn't take pictures during the install, but can take a few of the finished work when I'm home next week if helpful; lemme know.
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12-12-2018, 11:38 AM	#4
pmooiweer Zymurgist 89 Rep 161 Posts Drives: 2018 BMW M3 (F80) Join Date: May 2012 Location: Philadelphia area iTrader: (0)	No need to slice into any factory wiring. Running a power wire into the trunk is pretty easy (~10-15 minutes) all of the plastic covers around the door sills simply pop off. I first tried tapping into the front fuse box, but couldn't fit an add-a-fuse fuse holder under the fuse box cover. The fuse box on the trunk doesn't have a cover, so much easier. I tapped into the Homelink fuse, which is a switched circuit. The hardest things are (1) mounting the sensors and (2) running the wires thru the firewall. Everything else is just a matter of disassembling parts of the dash, which isn't hard and just takes some patience. To get enough space for access to the firewall I removed the small plastic wiper drip tray on the passenger side. This tray is pretty hard to remove without taking lots of things apart (e.g. removing wipers for easier access). I wound up loosening the wiper cowl cover and shimmying the tray out. I tried both the passenger and driver side, and could not find a way to gain access to the firewall at the driver side. Even on the passenger side there's not enough space to reach the firewall grommet (there are two; you'll want the larger one). I used a wire snake from inside the passenger compartment to pull the sensor wires through the firewall. You probably first need to push a stiff wire (I used coat hanger wire) through the grommet from inside the engine compartment to figure out its location from inside the car (it is pretty far up behind the glove box, and covered with thick insulation). I chose 2 regular plus 1 TX sensor, which allows them to be mounted in the kidney grilles. If you plan to use 2 regular sensors you'll have to mount them horizontally, which means somewhere on the bumper. This makes them much more noticeable and makes running the wires into the engine bay more difficult. See ALP blog for proper sensor positioning for BMW. I highly recommend getting ISTA and studying the relevant disassembly instructions, e.g. wiper cowl cover fasteners, before starting work. The whole job took me around 10 hours over two days. I'll send some pics next week.
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12-18-2018, 09:34 AM	#5
jmciver ///M SubDriver 1837 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: 2017 M3, 2020 X7 40i Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: DMV iTrader: (0) Garage List 2017 BMW M3 [10.00] 2020 BMW X7 [0.00] 2019 BMW X3 [0.00] 2009 BMW 128i [0.00]	I would be curious to know (and see a few pics if possible) of how you ran the sensor wires from the kidney grills to the firewall in order to prevent chafing of the wires. My initial look did not see an obvious path without taking things apart. Also, did you remove the bumper and/or kidney grills to install the sensors? Finally, what did you use to secure the sensors to the kidney grill - I have seen some use Suguru which seems like a good method due to its moldability. For the OP, here is a link to an install on an F3X: https://www.rdforum.org/index.php?threads/74393/ More install research info (specifically for mounting stuff inside the cabin): https://www.adrenalineautosound.com/...-laser-system/ You can tell I have been thinking about this for a while .... __________________ ///M3 *COMPETITION 6MT* - 2017 F80 Smoked Topaz Metallic BM3 / MP-HAS / GC Camber Plates / Carbonstructure Interior X7 XDrive 40i ///M-SPORT - 2020 G07 Arctic Grey Metallic X3 XDrive 30i - 2019 G01 Mineral White (wife's) / 128i 6MT - 2009 E82 Jet Black (son's) Last edited by jmciver; 12-18-2018 at 10:04 AM..
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12-20-2018, 12:13 PM	#6
pmooiweer Zymurgist 89 Rep 161 Posts Drives: 2018 BMW M3 (F80) Join Date: May 2012 Location: Philadelphia area iTrader: (0)	Here are some pictures and observations from my ALP AntiLaser Priority install. My car wasn't exactly clean when I took the pictures, so pardon the dust that's visible in the closeups. I tried providing as much detail as I could without having to disassemble my car too much, but please feel free to reach out if you have any specific questions. Sensor positioning: I installed a 3-sensor (front-only) system, including two regular heads and a TX sensor. Use of a TX sensor allows the regular sensors to be mounted vertically, which means they can be attached to the kidney grilles. I first tried installing the sensors by removing the grilles, but found that it's impossible to align them properly that way. It wasn't easy, but I was able to slide enough of my hand in between the fins to properly install the sensors. Running the wires from behind the grilles into the engine compartment is easy; there's plenty of give in the rubber gaskets behind the grilles and space around the headlights. View from front (left/driver side sensor is just below the ///M3 logo): [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68510[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68511[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68507[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68508[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68509[/IMG] Right Sensor: I bent the ALP mounting bracket and used 3M mounting tape to essentially wrap it around and attach it to one of the grille fins (i.e. the bracket is mounted on the back side of the fin facing the sensor; the fins have a ridge that perfectly hides the bracket). After positioning the sensor properly, I used black Milliput epoxy putty to create a permanent wedge between the sensor bracket and grille fin, keeping it from moving (I used duct tape while the epoxy was curing); that's the greyish/black wedge you can see to the right of the sensor): [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68504[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68505[/IMG] TX Sensor: The TX sensor can be mounted at the top of the grille, between two fins, using the provided bracket. I simply bent it over, cut the excess, and mounted it using 3M tape. I ran the sensor wire behind the rubber gasket that sits behind the grille, from the top to the right/passenger side. [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68506[/IMG] Left Sensor: I mounted the left/driver side sensor similar to the right/passenger side sensor. To fit the sensor below the ///M3 logo, I removed the grille and used a Dremel bit to remove material from the bottom of the logo. Since it's at the bottom, this is not visible once the sensor is mounted. [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68502[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68501[/IMG] Wire run: I ran the wires to the right/passenger side, along the inside edge of the engine compartment (I blurred out my VIN with a blue marker). [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68513[/IMG] Firewall access: As I mentioned earlier, getting access to the grommets in the firewall is difficult. I used the passenger side, as I wanted to mount the ALP control unit behind the passenger side kick panel where the FEM ECU is housed. The first hurdle to cross is removal of the passenger side wiper drip tray, which I've circled in yellow in the first picture. I found it can be wriggled out (with some force), after loosening the plastic wiper cowl cover and detaching the fuse box from the frame. The tray is attached to the frame with two bolts. See ISTA for fairly detailed instructions; follow the steps for wiper arm removal (if you have tools for wiper arm removal that would likely give you more space to work with). [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68503[/IMG] After removing the drip tray and pushing the fuse box aside, you should be able to see three grommets in the firewall. There's the large one that is being used for the BMW wire loom, with two smaller ones above it. The one closer to the driver side is slightly larger than the other one, and provides enough room for the three ALP sensor wires. I removed that grommet, cut a hole in it, and ran the sensor wires through, one at a time. The sensor wires are more clearly visible in the second picture. [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68500[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68495[/IMG] I then used wire from a white coat hanger to poke through the firewall from inside the engine compartment into the passenger footwell. After a few tries I could see the wire come through the firewall behind the glove box (it'll be way up; you may need to lie on your back in the passenger footwell to be able to see it). I then pulled a strong string through the firewall and used that to pull each of the sensor wires into the passenger footwell. After removing the wire slack in the engine compartment I reinstalled the grommet using a long screw driver wrapped in duct tape (to make it sticky enough to hold the grommet). I did not have enough space to be able to use my hands. A bit hard to see, but this is where the wires enter the passenger compartment, behind the glove box: [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68515[/IMG] Control unit install: I installed the control unit just above the FEM ECU. To get access to that space, remove the passenger side door sill and kick panel (after removing the passenger side bottom dash cover). Both simply pull out. [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68493[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68492[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68491[/IMG] I mounted the ALP control unit upside down above the FEM ECU and ran the USB cable into my glove box (for firmware updates): [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68490[/IMG] GPS Antenna and Wire Slack: I mounted my GPS antenna above the passenger side vent. I simply removed some of the door trim and the triangular cover on the side of the dash, and found enough space to store the sensor wire slack. It is also right above the area where I installed the ALP control unit, so convenient. [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68483[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68516[/IMG] HiFi Speaker: I mounted the speaker behind the switches for Lane Departure, etc., using 3M tape. The easiest way to get access to that is to first remove the driver side vent trim (simply pull) and then push the switch panel out from the inside, starting at the top. [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68481[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68480[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68479[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68478[/IMG] ALP Control Set: I wanted my control set to be hidden, yet easily accessible, so installed it in the cigarette lighter tray in the center console. To get access I removed the center trim cover pieces, switches and cup holders (see ISTA for instructions). I used a Dremel to enlarge one of the existing holes in the cigarette lighter tray. Running wires to and from this location is pretty easy and there's no need to disassemble much of the dash; simply removing some trim pieces is enough. [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68477[/IMG] [IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/pi...ictureid=68476[/IMG]
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12-20-2018, 01:11 PM	#7
jmciver ///M SubDriver 1837 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: 2017 M3, 2020 X7 40i Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: DMV iTrader: (0) Garage List 2017 BMW M3 [10.00] 2020 BMW X7 [0.00] 2019 BMW X3 [0.00] 2009 BMW 128i [0.00]	That is very impressive - best ALP DIY I have seen for the F3X/F8X platform - you just made my future install much easier !! I especially like how you mounted the two RX/TX sensors in the grill by bending the brackets, essentially making a "clip" to mount them to the fins of the kidney grill - genius. A few quick questions... 1. If I understand you correctly, you did not need to completely remove the center console trim piece to install the ALP Control Set? I thought I would need to completely remove it from the car in order to modify it to hold the Control Set there. 2. Did you get any rattles by mounting the extra cable slack where you did? I was thinking about wrapping the wires in automotive Tesa tape to help with that. A bit overkill, but these cars already have more rattles than they should and I did not want to add to them. 3. Did you ever get your setup tested? I would think your setup would work fine against all of the top guns based on other research I have done though. 4. I assume you did not remove the glove box to get access to the grommet on the firewall from inside the car. If doing the install again would you remove the glove box for better access? 5. Where did you mount your LED? 6. To route the wiring for the speaker to the drivers side, did you need to remove the trim panel in the drive side footwell (below the steering column)? And for the OP and others who want to attempt this, you don't need a copy of ISTA for the factory dissassembly procedures mentioned above. They can be found online as well. Here is one for removing the center console trim (the piece with the cup holders): 51 16 16 Removing and Installing Center Console Trim __________________ ///M3 *COMPETITION 6MT* - 2017 F80 Smoked Topaz Metallic BM3 / MP-HAS / GC Camber Plates / Carbonstructure Interior X7 XDrive 40i ///M-SPORT - 2020 G07 Arctic Grey Metallic X3 XDrive 30i - 2019 G01 Mineral White (wife's) / 128i 6MT - 2009 E82 Jet Black (son's) Last edited by jmciver; 12-21-2018 at 09:17 AM..
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12-20-2018, 02:19 PM	#8
pmooiweer Zymurgist 89 Rep 161 Posts Drives: 2018 BMW M3 (F80) Join Date: May 2012 Location: Philadelphia area iTrader: (0)	Thanks! 1. Yes, I removed everything I needed to be able to pull the cup holder unit. Not hard; the ISTA instructions are good and it just takes a bit of patience. 2. I used zip ties around the wires only. I found that the space behind the side panel is snug enough that nothing moves, so there's no noise, even on bumpy roads. 3. No; haven't seen something in the area. However, I've been hit with laser guns a couple of times while driving through NY and CT, and things seemed to work fine (i.e. no tickets...). 4. Nope. The glove box is a PITA to remove and more room for access to the firewall from inside wouldn't really help much. The inside firewall is covered in thick, carpet-like insulation, and I don't think you can see or feel where that grommet is. Also, the grommet is mounted from inside the engine compartment and can't be removed from inside the car. 5. I didn't mount the LED. I find that the speaker by itself provides enough feedback. If I also want to see an LED, I can simply leave the cover of the lighter compartment open. 6. Just the bottom panel. Like the passenger side, it's held in place by 2 nuts and is easy to remove. Access to that area allows you to zip tie the speaker cable.
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01-29-2019, 04:09 PM	#15
jmciver ///M SubDriver 1837 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: 2017 M3, 2020 X7 40i Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: DMV iTrader: (0) Garage List 2017 BMW M3 [10.00] 2020 BMW X7 [0.00] 2019 BMW X3 [0.00] 2009 BMW 128i [0.00]	Another quick question for you.... Do you remember about how long the "extra" cable length you had that you had to roll up under the dash? Or more specifically, do you think if you decided to install the CPU under the driver side dash (instead of next to the FEM), there would be enough cable length to get over to that side of the car? __________________ ///M3 *COMPETITION 6MT* - 2017 F80 Smoked Topaz Metallic BM3 / MP-HAS / GC Camber Plates / Carbonstructure Interior X7 XDrive 40i ///M-SPORT - 2020 G07 Arctic Grey Metallic X3 XDrive 30i - 2019 G01 Mineral White (wife's) / 128i 6MT - 2009 E82 Jet Black (son's)
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01-30-2019, 08:56 PM	#17
rebel3 New Member 2 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2018 M3 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Deep South iTrader: (0)	I can't thank you enough for this DIY. I installed an ALP front only system and an Escort Max CI and this spelled everything out. Pulling the cables through the firewall was the biggest pain. I have dwarf hands and could access the grommet but I was worried that I was damaging the wires with the force I was using to pull the wires. But I did not experience any problems. I installed the ALP head unit in the same place as you did. And I put the Escort head unit on the drivers side where you installed the speaker. Total install time was about 6 hours and I have never tried something like this before. https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/al...ictureid=68950 https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/al...ictureid=68951
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01-13-2022, 10:40 PM	#19
F30lciB58 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: BMW M340i Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Arizona iTrader: (0)	Do you think I should install anything in the rear? I’m debating in front only with the 3 sensor set up, or front and rear with 3 sensors each. And I’ll be mounting my controller above my head by my sunroof. So no one will ever know it’s there. Last edited by F30lciB58; 01-13-2022 at 10:45 PM.. Reason: Added what I just deleted.
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