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      07-02-2017, 02:40 PM   #1
TRZ06
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Looking for a good aggressive street pad

After going thru 2 pad/rotor warranty claims, I am tired of dealing with the bad mesh between the stock pads and rotors which cause vibrations if used aggressively on the street (i.e. Mountain roads/canyon carving)

I'm content with the stock rotors so I don't want to go full on BBK, I just want some good performance street pads that don't sound like a school bus.

Is there anything on the market in stock caliper sizes that are as good , if not better, for stopping power and initial bite??

I seem to see a lot of options for track pads, but not "street performance".

There has to be a better material out there that works better with the stock rotors.
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      07-02-2017, 04:18 PM   #2
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i like my porter field r4s but the initial bite seems less tho i don't think overall braking power is any different. very low dust too.
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      07-04-2017, 08:26 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by styler69 View Post
i like my porter field r4s but the initial bite seems less tho i don't think overall braking power is any different. very low dust too.
Another vote for the R4S pads. I haven't noticed and loss of initial bite but I replaced my brake lines with stainless steel lines when I did the pad swap and that may be why.
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      07-04-2017, 10:26 PM   #4
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Drive with DSC off.
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      07-05-2017, 12:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Drive with DSC off.
WTH does that have anything to do with rotor/pad meshing???

Put down the crack pipe
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      07-05-2017, 01:16 PM   #6
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/crack pipe down

DSC will intervene in 2 ways:

Apply selective braking (typically to 1 corner)
Cut throttle

Application of braking by the DSC system could lead to excessive heat in your brakes.

Application of selective braking is only really noticeable by the flashing DSC symbol on the dash. The throttle cut is impossible to miss. You can easily be causing DSC braking without realizing it.

/crack pipe back in hand
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      07-06-2017, 11:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
/crack pipe down

DSC will intervene in 2 ways:

Apply selective braking (typically to 1 corner)
Cut throttle

Application of braking by the DSC system could lead to excessive heat in your brakes.

Application of selective braking is only really noticeable by the flashing DSC symbol on the dash. The throttle cut is impossible to miss. You can easily be causing DSC braking without realizing it.

/crack pipe back in hand
Haha

It happens with normal commute driving as well. The pad material used and the rotor material just don't mesh well.

There has to be a good intermediate pad somewhere in-between street and track out there
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      07-06-2017, 09:03 PM   #8
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I enjoy the dsc off people. Also if you want to be real hard core, drive blind folded with a cougar in the car.
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      07-07-2017, 07:13 AM   #9
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      07-07-2017, 07:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccondo View Post
I enjoy the dsc off people. Also if you want to be real hard core, drive blind folded with a cougar in the car.
Suggesting to drive with DSC off is not about being hardcore etc.

They stated they think they are having issues with overheating brakes because of faster driving sessions.

A possible cause for this is DSC intervention.
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      07-07-2017, 11:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccondo View Post
I enjoy the dsc off people. Also if you want to be real hard core, drive blind folded with a cougar in the car.
Suggesting to drive with DSC off is not about being hardcore etc.

They stated they think they are having issues with overheating brakes because of faster driving sessions.

A possible cause for this is DSC intervention.
No, what I said was that the pad material used in the stock brake pads and the rotor material does not mesh well together, which causes vibrations
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      07-07-2017, 12:36 PM   #12
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Carbotech bobcat* or XP8 would be my recommendation.
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      07-07-2017, 12:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccondo View Post
I enjoy the dsc off people. Also if you want to be real hard core, drive blind folded with a cougar in the car.
Suggesting to drive with DSC off is not about being hardcore etc.

They stated they think they are having issues with overheating brakes because of faster driving sessions.

A possible cause for this is DSC intervention.
No, what I said was that the pad material used in the stock brake pads and the rotor material does not mesh well together, which causes vibrations
This may sound crazy but get your car up to 80 mph, slam on the brakes and let off around 10 mph. Then drive normal for about 10 minutes without stopping. I like to call it the redneck bedding procedure. Sometimes it will get rid of vibrations.
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      07-07-2017, 05:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeM4 View Post
This may sound crazy but get your car up to 80 mph, slam on the brakes and let off around 10 mph. Then drive normal for about 10 minutes without stopping. I like to call it the redneck bedding procedure. Sometimes it will get rid of vibrations.
I have tried that. The brakes are smooth when they are cool, it's when they heat up that the vibrations start. Hard stops just increase the vibrations.

Once they are cool, they are smooth again. That is why I say the pad material doesn't mesh well with the rotors.

It only takes a few spirited braking sessions to make it happen too, so it happens pretty quickly if you are getting deep into the brakes.

I can repeat this daily without fail just with my morning commute. Brakes start off smooth, get a couple decent quick stops on the freeway (typical in bay area traffic) and the vibrations start up. Leave work, smooth brakes, a couple of quick stops from 60+, vibrations. You get the point.

Warped rotors, it would be consistent. Pad deposits, it would be consistent. The only logic explanation is the pad material is too soft and doesn't play well with the rotors with any sort of heat.

I had a E90 M3 and had no such issues.
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Last edited by TRZ06; 07-07-2017 at 05:24 PM..
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      07-07-2017, 05:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Carbotech bobcat* or XP8 would be my recommendation.
The Carbotech 1521 sounds interesting looking on their website. The XP8 sounds interesting as well.

I do not track, but I do canyon carve sometimes. This is my daily and in stop and go traffic, so I do want something quiet with good initial bite and just a bit better overall biting power than stock.
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      07-07-2017, 09:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
The Carbotech 1521 sounds interesting looking on their website. The XP8 sounds interesting as well.

I do not track, but I do canyon carve sometimes. This is my daily and in stop and go traffic, so I do want something quiet with good initial bite and just a bit better overall biting power than stock.
The CT 1521 compound is a great street-only performance pad. I had a custom set of 1521 pads made for the PFC calipers on my e92 M3. Good initial bite, consistent braking performance, and good modulation and release characteristics.

I would not recommend using any CT XP compound on the street unless you enjoy loud squealing and a lot of dust! However, their performance is awesome.
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      07-07-2017, 09:15 PM   #17
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http://www.racer.com/scca-home/item/...built-to-order
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      07-09-2017, 01:42 AM   #18
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Porterfield R4S is a good sport street pad choice.
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