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11-02-2014, 01:01 AM | #1 |
Involuntarily BMW
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Best value place for a clutch replacement in 135i
Noticed my clutch slipping recently. Not getting the power that I know my car makes! Stepping aggressively on the gas in any gear results in the revs jumping and then, as I let off (and the clutch stops slipping), the needle drops to the appropriate RPM and rises slowly as I gas up cautiously.
Where in San Jose/Sunnyvale/Cupertino is the cheapest+best (a compromise of both) to get my clutch plates replaced? How much should I expect to pay for the labour? Is this a good kit to order? http://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_Bi...012_2013_2014/
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11-02-2014, 06:13 AM | #2 |
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The longer you drive around on a slipping clutch the more likely your gonna need a new flywheel. And thats big bucks. ~$1,100. Also I would replace all the clutch and flywheel bolts and the rear main seal while you are in there. And the release bearing - but most kits come with that.
Also keep in mind most indi shops won't install your parts. They will want to sell you "their" own parts. So its gonna be hard to find a shop. Good Luck, Dackel
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11-02-2014, 07:15 AM | #3 | |
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As for the ECS 550i clutch kit, I just ordered one, and it'll be going on in a bit. Other forum members have also purchased this item: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...+clutch&page=2 In the mean time, drive normally (read: conservatively) to keep the power from destroying your friction surfaces.
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11-02-2014, 11:30 AM | #4 |
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This 550i clutch looks legit. I have a spec stage 2+ in my car with stock dmfw but it was put in by the PO before I got it. If I was going to get a upgraded clutch it would be spec 2+ or this 550i one.
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JB4 G5 + BMS race flash, BMS meth kit, VRSF DP, Big tom Ic, BMS chinese tester CP, Custom Muffler Delete, BMS Oil Cooler Valve, Cowl Filters, Clutch Stop, B&M Short Shifter, Spec Stg 2+ Clutch W/ Oem dmfw, Vmr V710, KW v2, M RSFB, 1M Front and rear Bumper, Performance Side Skirts, slek trunk, Lci blacklines.] |
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11-02-2014, 10:22 PM | #5 |
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The ECS is a 135/335is clutch, not a 550i one, I thought. [nevermind, I'm wrong. It handles the 550i as well]
What's the "rear main seal"? Are there any part numbers that you can recommend or any links? I'm ordering thru ECS. [oh rear crankshaft deal. yep, just let ECS know I want that part as well. should be fun]
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1999 M3 / sold 2009 135i / current Last edited by psamtik; 11-02-2014 at 10:35 PM.. |
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11-12-2014, 01:36 PM | #8 |
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Shop is telling me they don't feel comfortable putting in a new clutch without getting a flywheel with it after telling me to get the clutch. This is frustrating - I've been avoiding driving for two weekends (1 and a half weeks) because of the slipping clutch.
Is it considered normal practice to replace the flywheel with the clutch? I don't want the chatter of the SMFW at all (apparently all SMFWs chatter) and so I'll have to go with the DMFW.
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11-12-2014, 02:50 PM | #9 | |
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IME yes. I've always done new flywheels on every car that I've done new clutches on. |
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11-12-2014, 05:30 PM | #10 |
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You can resurface single mass flywheels, and that's standard practice unless you upgrade to a lightweight aftermarket unit. At some point you remove too much material and can no longer resurface, or if it is too far ruined it may not be possible. For the most part you can probably resurface a SMF a few times.
My understanding is shops will generally refuse to resurface dual mass units. I suppose at a minimum they'd have to be disassembled so they could be mounted to the machine (machining a sprung part is probably impossible to do successfully or very unsafe). It may be worth calling several shops in your area to see if they can do this and have experience doing so successfully on BMW DMFs. Again, never heard of this happening, though.
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11-13-2014, 09:23 AM | #12 |
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+1. You are going to need a new dual mass flywheel, all new bolts(for DMFW) and a new rear crankshaft seal(on engine block behind the DMFW). And of course a new clutch.
Personally I am surprised a shop would let you bring your own parts to the table. Thats where they make a fair bit of profit.
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11-16-2014, 10:22 AM | #14 |
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Huh? Mechanics work for free? I guess I'm in the wrong business. I should start up a shop and fill my employee rolls with these magical no-charge mechanics. Sounds like a great idea!
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11-29-2014, 04:58 PM | #16 |
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"Profit" on sales is used to pay expenses. Labour is an expense - there is no COGS involved (Cost of Goods Sold).
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12-02-2014, 06:50 AM | #17 |
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My mechanic here in SF is doing my clutch swap for $500. There's also a place in the Bay area that specializes in resurfacing the dmfw, so it definitely can be done. I'll try to get the name of the machine shop that does the resurfacing when I get back in town.
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12-02-2014, 08:40 PM | #18 |
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I presume that's just the labor cost. How many hours of labor? In the South Bay, labor rates at independents run $125-$150/hr...
Thanks. Karl.
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12-04-2014, 08:21 PM | #20 |
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Yes that is just labor...all other shops wanted to charge me $1k for labor. I don't know his rate...we usually just chat about it and come to terms on a good price. I'll ask him about it once I'm back in town.
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12-05-2014, 09:24 AM | #21 |
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Let the INDY get the parts. They don't make their money on parts but rather labor. Also it is only after tearing the car down what parts are needed can be determined.
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01-28-2015, 11:40 AM | #22 |
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So my clutch doesn't feel like it's slipping in the classic sense. It feels like it slips and then catches with a jerk. I once had an old Chevy Malibu that did this but it was a broken engine mont that made things feel like a slip and then jerk.
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