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      11-16-2013, 06:25 AM   #1
RichardJ
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Removing wheel nuts

Please can someone recommend a suitable tool for removing wheel nuts? The cheap wrench I have just isn't working on my wheel nuts. Does it need to be a torque wrench? If yes is there any particular one I need? Thanks
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      11-16-2013, 06:36 AM   #2
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It doesn't have to be a torque wrench, but if would strongly suggest you use one. They're not that expensive and you'd get one from ya local Halfords, just check the settings before tightening.
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      11-16-2013, 07:02 AM   #3
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See here for settings:-

http://www.f30post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834227
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      11-16-2013, 08:04 AM   #4
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For undoing the wheel bolts what you need is 17mm socket with a long bar attached to it. This gives you the leverage to loosen the bolts. You only need torque wrench when finally tightening them. You do them up to say 3/4 of the final figure and then pinch them up the final 1/4. I was told the the torque figure was 120Nm.
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      11-16-2013, 08:57 AM   #5
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It's 140NM for most new BMWs now as they use a M14 lug nut (was M12 in previous models). A lot of dealers still get this wrong, but it is in their TIS.
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      11-16-2013, 09:13 AM   #6
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Thanks both!
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      11-16-2013, 10:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNPT View Post
It doesn't have to be a torque wrench, but if would strongly suggest you use one. They're not that expensive and you'd get one from ya local Halfords, just check the settings before tightening.
To clarify, you don't use a torque wrench to undo the wheel bolts, (may damage the wrench) but need one to correctly tighten them. Remember to do so in a crisscross manner, (imagine a 5 pointed star).

As has been suggested, best use a simple breaker bar on the 17mm socket to undo the wheel bolts. Again us the crisscross method to undo the bolts, to prevent any wheel/hub distortion.

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      11-18-2013, 01:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
To clarify, you don't use a torque wrench to undo the wheel bolts, (may damage the wrench) but need one to correctly tighten them. Remember to do so in a crisscross manner, (imagine a 5 pointed star).

As has been suggested, best use a simple breaker bar on the 17mm socket to undo the wheel bolts. Again us the crisscross method to undo the bolts, to prevent any wheel/hub distortion.

HighlandPete
I purchased a protective 17mm socket to avoid damaging the wheel.

SX03017 Alloy Wheel Impact Socket 17mm 1/2"Sq Drive via Amazon.
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      11-18-2013, 02:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorroone View Post
I purchased a protective 17mm socket to avoid damaging the wheel.

SX03017 Alloy Wheel Impact Socket 17mm 1/2"Sq Drive via Amazon.
That is the same Sealey socket I use. Worth it just to save marking alloys.

In fact used it today, fitting my winter wheel set.

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      11-18-2013, 02:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorroone View Post
I purchased a protective 17mm socket to avoid damaging the wheel.

SX03017 Alloy Wheel Impact Socket 17mm 1/2"Sq Drive via Amazon.
Ooh very posh. I just use insulation tape wrapped around.
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      11-18-2013, 02:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatsojon View Post
Ooh very posh. I just use insulation tape wrapped around.
The benefit of an protective/insulated and extended socket, does everything properly, IMO. Protects the wheel and can be used with a breaker bar and torque wrench without an extension, so a safer tool. Plus you can 'hand wind' the wheel studs with the same socket. Simplifies the whole wheel change.

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      11-18-2013, 03:00 PM   #12
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Good quality socket, insulating tape round it and a good quality breaker bar. Search Ebay for the bar, I bought a Sealey one and its great quality and very strong.
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