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      10-12-2013, 02:27 PM   #1
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CDV delete went well but clutch bleed gone wrong. HELP!

DIY seemed pretty straightforward. Followed the instructions but when it came to bleeding the clutch, I had someone pressed on the clutch once and the pedal didn't come back up. I'm guessing there is no pressure in the clutch master cylinder but idk how to build up the pressure. Tried little pumps but that didn't work. Any suggestions is much appreciated. Thanks!
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      10-12-2013, 02:29 PM   #2
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There's air in the system so it would need to be completely flushed.
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      10-12-2013, 02:32 PM   #3
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Would that require just opening the clutch bleeder and using an oil can to pump brake fluid into it?
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      10-12-2013, 02:38 PM   #4
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Use your hand to pull the clutch back up then repeat like you do when bleed brakes by hand. You have to build pressure to get the air out.
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      10-12-2013, 03:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fc21
Would that require just opening the clutch bleeder and using an oil can to pump brake fluid into it?
No unless your using a positive pressure brake bleeder to force the fluid up to the reservoir which is the preferred method.

Bleed it like you would a brake. YouTube it if you never done it.
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      10-12-2013, 04:43 PM   #6
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Motive Power Bleeder.

/thread
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      10-12-2013, 05:34 PM   #7
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also make sure there is plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir...i had trouble with my e46 m3 before because what happened was i would be pumping the clutch but just had no fluid in there.

the problem is the reservoir for the clutch is an extremely small portion in the back of the brake reservoir...if you look closely i bet its empty in that portion...just fill it up constantly and keep bleeding the clutch.

have someone pump the clutch a couple times and while the clutch is pressed down open the bleeder valve a little then close quickly...and repeat this process 4-5 times and your clutch should be good.
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      10-12-2013, 05:39 PM   #8
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Happened to me. The slave cylinder, because of it's location, has trapped air. Needs to be bled.

Steve
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      10-12-2013, 08:59 PM   #9
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I had a hell of a time bleeding the clutch bc of the RIDICULOUS positioning of the clutch bleeder nipple. Ultimately I had to use a vacuum to draw fluid out.
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      10-12-2013, 09:16 PM   #10
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Yeah, boom said it best. The standard clutch bleeding steps worked but the position of the clutch bleeder made it impossible to do the job right. With the sun going down, I just called it quits. gonna put my AAA membership to use and tow it to my local shop to get it done. Thanks for the input though guys.
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      10-15-2013, 02:59 PM   #11
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So apparently, I was introducing more air into the system than deleting air. Shifting is a lot smoother and faster than before. I suggest to anyone who reads this later on to definitely get a pressure bleeder. It's manageable without one but you need a lot of patience and small hands to make sure you do the clutch bleeding properly.
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      10-15-2013, 10:43 PM   #12
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I just bled the line with a universal joint and deep socket. I just let the fluid drip down, the nipple and bleed valve are in such a bad spot. Have a buddy pump the clutch and hold it down, crack the nut and then close it again. Do that 5 or 6 times while refilling the reservoir was how I got it done.
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      10-16-2013, 12:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glachhman
I just bled the line with a universal joint and deep socket. I just let the fluid drip down, the nipple and bleed valve are in such a bad spot. Have a buddy pump the clutch and hold it down, crack the nut and then close it again. Do that 5 or 6 times while refilling the reservoir was how I got it done.
Could you take a pic of what you used. I tried soo many different tools but nothing cleared the right space.
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      10-16-2013, 01:36 AM   #14
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I found it to be a bit cleaner to use an oil can that is a pump type( like in the wizard of oz) fill it with brake fluid, attach a small diameter plastic tube between the can and the bleed nipple, crack the nut open and pump with the oil can back up to the reservoir from the bottom. Helper watched the bubbles come into the reservoir, and when they stopped, I closed the nut to seal the system. Hard to get to the bleed nipple, but cleaner than blowing brake fluid all over the floor and me. I removed a bit of fluid from the brake reservoir first to allow for any overflow and not spill all over the engine compartment.Got the idea from some video I saw on this, do not remember where. If the tubing fits tightly, there is minimal spillage. You do not need to open the bleeder very much, just crack it. The advantage of this method is that the bubbles go up and out of the system instead of trying to force them down and out. I used a small open end wrench that moved the nipple about a sixteenth of a turn at a time. Idiotic location behind the drive shaft.

YMMV
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      10-16-2013, 08:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas
I found it to be a bit cleaner to use an oil can that is a pump type( like in the wizard of oz) fill it with brake fluid, attach a small diameter plastic tube between the can and the bleed nipple, crack the nut open and pump with the oil can back up to the reservoir from the bottom. Helper watched the bubbles come into the reservoir, and when they stopped, I closed the nut to seal the system. Hard to get to the bleed nipple, but cleaner than blowing brake fluid all over the floor and me. I removed a bit of fluid from the brake reservoir first to allow for any overflow and not spill all over the engine compartment.Got the idea from some video I saw on this, do not remember where. If the tubing fits tightly, there is minimal spillage. You do not need to open the bleeder very much, just crack it. The advantage of this method is that the bubbles go up and out of the system instead of trying to force them down and out. I used a small open end wrench that moved the nipple about a sixteenth of a turn at a time. Idiotic location behind the drive shaft.

YMMV
I wanted to try the oil can method but by the time I found that video, it was already too dark. Will def keep that in mind for next time.
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      10-20-2013, 08:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fc21 View Post
Could you take a pic of what you used. I tried soo many different tools but nothing cleared the right space.
I will try to tomorrow, I used a 7/16 deep socket on a 3/8 Universal joint with extensions.

EDIT: You're xdrive so I believe it is harder/impossible.
Have you had any luck yet?
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      10-20-2013, 11:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glachhman
Quote:
Originally Posted by fc21 View Post
Could you take a pic of what you used. I tried soo many different tools but nothing cleared the right space.
I will try to tomorrow, I used a 7/16 deep socket on a 3/8 Universal joint with extensions.

EDIT: You're xdrive so I believe it is harder/impossible.
Have you had any luck yet?
Not impossible but very limited space unless you have small hands or remove the driveshaft. Ended up towing it to the shop that I get all my work done. All good now.
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