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      03-24-2013, 06:32 PM   #1
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335i Altenator Overcharging?

Crazy went crazy and practically everylight on the dash came on...checked battery voltage and it read 17.8v 18.4 with a small rev... I kno normally it should be around 14v....started the car and disconnected the neg cable but it just shuts off... Sounds like the altenator to u?
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      03-25-2013, 10:24 PM   #2
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Sounds like the voltage regulator is not operating correctly. Our cars are controlled by the DME. The Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) provides input to the DME to help control the voltage. If the IBS fails the DME uses a look up table which increases the idle speed and outputs a higher voltage. I don't know if the voltage is high enough to be what you saw or if the voltage regulator is the issue.
Hope this helps some.
Are you seeing any codes at all? If the IBS fails you should see voltage fault DME on or voltage fault DME not on...
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      03-25-2013, 10:33 PM   #3
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Had your battery cable recall done yet?
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      03-26-2013, 12:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
Sounds like the voltage regulator is not operating correctly. Our cars are controlled by the DME. The Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) provides input to the DME to help control the voltage. If the IBS fails the DME uses a look up table which increases the idle speed and outputs a higher voltage. I don't know if the voltage is high enough to be what you saw or if the voltage regulator is the issue.
Hope this helps some.
Are you seeing any codes at all? If the IBS fails you should see voltage fault DME on or voltage fault DME not on...
i got the code.2DEB Power management, vehicle wiring system control
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Signal or value below threshold.

how can i tell if its the ibs? was gonna buy a altenator soon but i do think that if its the ibs its cheaper..the car went crazy..everylight came on the dash at the same time after sitting in the car at idle for about 10 mins.
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      03-26-2013, 12:52 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by edrive90 View Post
Had your battery cable recall done yet?
yea i had the recall done 2 weeks ago
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      03-26-2013, 08:58 AM   #6
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Sounds like your alternator is working fine, it supposed to provide power, why its providing too much power is the issue. You have an 07, I'm willing to bet you are not on your original battery. When your battery was replaced did you relearn your intelligent battery system so that your alternator doesn't think its dealing with a 6 or 7 year old battery that requires more current than a new battery?

Edit: Meant that a bad alternator doesn't overcharge, it undercharges or more likely just sticks and doesn't charge at all.
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      03-26-2013, 09:17 AM   #7
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the maximum charging voltage with AGM batteries and efficient dynamics is 14.8V. If it goes over that something is wrong, probably voltage regulator, but as it is one controlled by software if have no clue other then go to dealer
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      03-26-2013, 10:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillip@bmpdesign View Post
Sounds like your alternator is working fine, it supposed to provide power, why its providing too much power is the issue. You have an 07, I'm willing to bet you are not on your original battery. When your battery was replaced did you relearn your intelligent battery system so that your alternator doesn't think its dealing with a 6 or 7 year old battery that requires more current than a new battery?

Edit: Meant that a bad alternator doesn't overcharge, it undercharges or more likely just sticks and doesn't charge at all.
Changed the battery already and i changed the altenator today and the battery is now charging at 14.4 volts.. Seems like it was the alternator
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      03-26-2013, 10:10 PM   #9
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You have to code the battery when you get it replaced so the computer knows that the alternator does not have to charge the battery as much.
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      03-26-2013, 10:12 PM   #10
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Does sound like it was your voltage regulator. The cost to replace the VR is probably close to the cost of a rebuilt alternator so it sounds like you did the right thing.
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      03-26-2013, 10:42 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Otruba_843 View Post
You have to code the battery when you get it replaced so the computer knows that the alternator does not have to charge the battery as much.
i know that and i had the battery coded when i got a new 1
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      03-27-2013, 02:06 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2nice View Post
i know that and i had the battery coded when i got a new 1
Which almost certainly is what fixed the issue, as opposed to the alternator, which quite likely had nothing to do with it.

Fix one issue at a time so you know what cause had what effect.
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      03-27-2013, 06:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexwhittemore View Post
Which almost certainly is what fixed the issue, as opposed to the alternator, which quite likely had nothing to do with it.

Fix one issue at a time so you know what cause had what effect.
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      03-27-2013, 08:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexwhittemore View Post
Which almost certainly is what fixed the issue, as opposed to the alternator, which quite likely had nothing to do with it.

Fix one issue at a time so you know what cause had what effect.
What are u talking about? I got my battery replaced a yr ago n had it coded upon replacement..the altenator was the part that was acting up, i switched it n now its fine
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      03-27-2013, 09:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2nice View Post
What are u talking about? I got my battery replaced a yr ago n had it coded upon replacement..the altenator was the part that was acting up, i switched it n now its fine
You made it sound like you replaced both at once.
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