[shinkamui]

Well it happeend, I've had this 2009 335i for about 3 weeks and the rear brake light finally came on. The DIY looks pretty easy, and I've done all teh replacements on my former 06 C230 benz, so I felt this would not be any more difficult. In reading post after post however, Im reading that I have to replace the rotors too every time? I've never replaced rotors before, and have no friends with experience who can assist. 2 questions. Can I safely ignore this practice and just replace the pads, or should I take it to an indy shop? Would minor maintenance like this be ill advised to trust to a generic shop like goodyear? And finally, how much should I expect to be charged for just the rears? I priced out the rotors at around 50 each, and the pads at 50-70 depending on if they are high grade metalic or ceramic, with the sensor coming in between 16 and 25$. No one seems to be willing to do any work so far if i provide the parts. Last thing, is there any recourse to having the selling dealership replace them? It was not disclosed that the brakes were near death when i purchased the vehicle, and iDrive had been reset to show all the brakes requiring service in 65k miles, not 500 miles. Appreciate any experienced insight.

[hugus311]

Bmw rotors are made of softer metal to e chance initial bite. You can have resurfaced and using a digital caliper to measure thickness. The minimum think ness is stamped on collar of rotor. I bought the tischer kit for 3 hundred and literally comes with everything oem. People have had good results with aftermarket Zimmerman rotors which run for about 50.

[hugus311]

Takes less than a hour to do both sides

Rotors wear out same time as the pads, replace as pairs, don't bother wasting money/time on tools to measure thickness.

You can get the OEM parts from getbmwparts.com or bmwpartspros.com for 20 percent off list price.

Look up the part numbers at realoem.com

Make sure to order the BMW lubricant and lubricate only the correct locations, the slide pins only get cleaned and installed dry, no lube on the piston or boot, only lubricate the sections where the brake pad ears make contact. Bentely BMW Service Manual on Amazon ($80) is highly recommended.

There is also a small hex bolt that holds the rotor on hub, I like to replace this bolt when I change the rotors as it sometime is seized and gets rounded.

The rear disc's are always usually rusted on, make sure to pick up penetrating lubricant, spray it let the rotor sit for 15-20 minutes then bang it off with a dead blow hammer, sometimes you have to use a regular big ass hammer, be careful not to strike the hub only strike the rotor.

Clean the hub with a brass wire brush and you can apply a VERY VERY light coating of anti seize so next time you do the brake job the rotor will just slide right off.



Brake disc, ventilated 336X22 2 34216855004
The following additional parts are
essential, mandatory requirements:
- brake pads
- brake pad sensor
- brake pad paste
The following recommendation applies
to vehicles more than 48 months old:
- Replace retaining spring
refer to Repair Manual!


Repair kit, brake pads asbestos-free 34216791938

The following additional parts are
also essential:
- brake pad sensor
- brake pad paste
The following recommendation applies
to vehicles more than 48 months old:
- Replace retaining spring
refer to Repair Manual!



Brake pad wear sensor 34356789445


Brake pad paste 83192158851 (Order 2)


These are part numbers for rear, rotors/pads/sensor/paste for 2009+ LCI 335i brakes.


If all this sounds too much for you, order the OEM parts, and find a good indy shop specializing in BMW's or european cars. Is not a big job and shouldn't cost too much labor wise.

[mark1996]

Replaced my rear pads yesterday with oem pads purchased from getbmwparts.com($75). My rotors at 60k miles had only a small "lip" so I did not replace them. Fairly easy job and it took only about an hour.

[335e92tx]

Theres a diy i just updated for rear pads. You can get sensors and pads cheap through amazon. I got a set of hawk pads, not quite that big initial bite but a little more linear feel. If you do swap rotors, let the old rotor spin on the axle a little before you try to pull it.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by index1489

Rotors wear out same time as the pads, replace as pairs, don't bother wasting money/time on tools to measure thickness.

You can get the OEM parts from getbmwparts.com or bmwpartspros.com for 20 percent off list price.

Look up the part numbers at realoem.com

Make sure to order the BMW lubricant and lubricate only the correct locations, the slide pins only get cleaned and installed dry, no lube on the piston or boot, only lubricate the sections where the brake pad ears make contact. Bentely BMW Service Manual on Amazon ($80) is highly recommended.

There is also a small hex bolt that holds the rotor on hub, I like to replace this bolt when I change the rotors as it sometime is seized and gets rounded.

The rear disc's are always usually rusted on, make sure to pick up penetrating lubricant, spray it let the rotor sit for 15-20 minutes then bang it off with a dead blow hammer, sometimes you have to use a regular big ass hammer, be careful not to strike the hub only strike the rotor.

Clean the hub with a brass wire brush and you can apply a VERY VERY light coating of anti seize so next time you do the brake job the rotor will just slide right off.



Brake disc, ventilated 336X22 2 34216855004
The following additional parts are
essential, mandatory requirements:
- brake pads
- brake pad sensor
- brake pad paste
The following recommendation applies
to vehicles more than 48 months old:
- Replace retaining spring
refer to Repair Manual!


Repair kit, brake pads asbestos-free 34216791938

The following additional parts are
also essential:
- brake pad sensor
- brake pad paste
The following recommendation applies
to vehicles more than 48 months old:
- Replace retaining spring
refer to Repair Manual!



Brake pad wear sensor 34356789445


Brake pad paste 83192158851 (Order 2)


These are part numbers for rear, rotors/pads/sensor/paste for 2009+ LCI 335i brakes.


If all this sounds too much for you, order the OEM parts, and find a good indy shop specializing in BMW's or european cars. Is not a big job and shouldn't cost too much labor wise.

This is spot on. Just a few notes:
1) Make sure the parking brake is off, or the rotor will never come off.
2) I use a 18 inch long piece of wood dowel 1 1/4 inch round (the kind used for closet rods) and a 2 - 3 lb sledge hammer. Works great.
3) Get about 4 cans of brake clean too.

I'd go back to the dealer and seriously make a complaint. That is total BS IMO.

[nukezero]

For the rear rotors , did you guys need to use a screwdriver to insert into one of the rotor bolt hole and then the cogwheel to loose the ebrake pads so that you can take the rotor off?????

Thanks

You don't have to do that if your parking brake is off, turning that cog wheel screws up your parking brake adjustment, and needs to be readjusted, turn it until its MAX (touching the inner rotor) then back it off 7-8-9 turns depending on what car and sized rotor you have. Your also suppose to release the tension on the brake cable before you do this by pressing the spring in, inside the parking brake handle boot.

Bentley Manual outlines all this well.


Isn't the car still under warranty you just brought it 3 weeks ago and its a 09, even if its out of warranty I would go to the dealer and ask them to do it good will, they should have fixed it before selling the car, you know part of the over priced reconditioning they do before they sell the car that you paid for.

[nukezero]

Originally Posted by index1489

You don't have to do that if your parking brake is off, turning that cog wheel screws up your parking brake adjustment, and needs to be readjusted, turn it until its MAX (touching the inner rotor) then back it off 7-8-9 turns depending on what car and sized rotor you have. Your also suppose to release the tension on the brake cable before you do this by pressing the spring in, inside the parking brake handle boot.

Bentley Manual outlines all this well.

Okay the reason I ask is because I released the parking brake on a Lexus sc430 but when I try to pull off the rotor, it nearly jammed and broke the springs inside the ebrake mechanisms. I had to hammer it back in and do some research on why it would get stuck.

Turns out that I need to release the cogwheel a bit more on the Lexus. My 335i brakes squeal on the rear during very low speed parking lot driving. The dealer told me it is the hill assist causing the ebrake pad to rub against the rotor. I suspect that means my ebrake shoes are rubbing the rotor and will most likely jam up if I don't rotate that cogwheel when I do take my rear rotors off one day.

You could release the cog wheel and turn the shoes down some, but just make sure to do the parking brake adjustment after, I find that usually unless the parking brake was already out of adjustment or sticking you normally don't have to do this.

[E90_boostjunky]

i just replaced my front and rear, drilled rotors and pads Stoptechs for 400-500 shipped + install from tire rack.

[jvsxn]

Whatever route you choose, don't forget to bed the pads.

http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

[gds52]

At 66k miles, my SA (a nice guy and saved me a lot of money in past) advised me only to replace rear pads and not rotors at $100 less than a friend of mine who got a quote at another BMW dealership.
You have to make sure if the rotors really need replacement or not. Do check with an expert.

[shinkamui]

Fun fact, and plus win! I checked the pads, they looked pretty meaty, with a random ruler, i measured about 7mm pad left. Sensor had cracked and broken (defective?). Replaced the sensor myself at 21$ with shipping. Should have checked them myself from day 1. Ended up costing me about 58$ in tools that I didn't have locally, mainly the lug wrench and 6 and 8 mm hex bits. Im ready to do the brakes when they're toast. My fronts look to be about 6, so I guess the wear is relatively even. Appreciate the feedback guys. I spent a lot of time studying the diy's so i feel confident in doing the brake and rotor replacement when the time comes.

[Popsrcr]

Usually there is a hole so you can use a bolt to back the rotor off. Better than beating it if there is a hole.