[stratos_335]

Hi all,

recently I dynoed my car again. Previously, I made 378 whp on a Mustang with probably a meth leak.

After fixing the leak and replacing the worn out clutch with the ACT organic I tried my car for one more time, at a Dynojet. I preferred the Dynojet as many people from here trust this dyno and I wanted to compare my results.

My car is FBO with fully catless exhaust, meth (pps kit) and rev. 3 with aggressive maps.

UT = 75% at the first pull, UT = 85 % at the second pull.

Dyno parameters: RunFile_002.drf: 27,72 °C 1022,85 mBars Humidity: 14 % DIN: 1,00 Average Gear Ratio: N/A

My car made 412 whp, nothing close to 430 - 440 like some other people in here. Gas 100 octane from trusted gas station and 70-30 meth mix with M10 injector.




And here is the log from the second run:




So the question is: the dyno correction was DIN 1.00. I think some dynos use 1.02, 2% more power?


Is it possible to change the dyno parameters? If yes, could that affect the power results and the power curve? 412 whp is far from 430 - 440 whp with the same settings, not including the E85 cars.

Dynoed with 4th gear, not 5th as usual.



Anyway, I don't really care about the ultimate numbers. My car feels strong and I get impressed every time I floor it down.

Here's a vid from a small ride. Maybe people with upgraded twins or single turbo cars will laugh at me but I feel really happy every time I get into my car.

Thank you for your time. This thread is about dyno settings and not my car....

[OpenFlash]

Most results posted on this forum are STD corrected which will give you a few % more power. If you have the .drf files, you can use the free dynojet run viewer software and change correction from "DIN" to "STD" and see what the new numbers are.

And some dynos do read higher/lower than others so its far better to compare your results from other cars tested on the same dyno

Shiv

[stratos_335]

Thanks for the answer Shiv.

I do have the run files, in txt form. I don't know if I can use it to make the DIN to STD transformation.

Thanks for the answer.

But, is it possible to change the parameters, at a Mustang or at a Dynojet? I don't implement that they changed the parameters to show up lower numbers, but is that possible?

Where can i find the free dynojet run viewer? PM me please if it cannot be posted in public...

[rader1]

Why not just do a run on map 0 and compare the "stock" numbers to the meth numbers? The delta is what matters.

[stratos_335]

Originally Posted by rader1

Why not just do a run on map 0 and compare the "stock" numbers to the meth numbers? The delta is what matters.

That is what I should have done but honestly I didn't think about it. The ultimate gain (delta) is what matters but I wanted to compare my power curve with these posted at this forum.

PS. I downloaded the WINPEP utility but I don't have the DRF file at this time. I'll ask for it from the dyno owner

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Logs look good, power looks strong. No torque numbers?

How big of a methanol nozzle are you using? Any flow sensor? Edit I see you do have failsafe/flow sensor.

Every dyno reads different, as you know the delta is important.

[stratos_335]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

Logs look good, power looks strong. No torque numbers?

How big of a methanol nozzle are you using? Any flow sensor? Edit I see you do have failsafe/flow sensor.

Every dyno reads different, as you know the delta is important.

Hi Jeff,

there are no torque numbers. They said that they needed to get rev signal from a coil to get the torque. Funny, as they didn't do anything like that at the Mustang. I think they could derive the revs from the wheel speed and the final gear ratio. I'll try to convert the results myself (transforming speed to rpm) but these could be wrong.

Anyway, the clutch behaves perfect so far but I already know 2 people that toasted their organic clutch.

Again, I don't care about the numbers, my car feels strong. I just wanted to know if the dyno numbers could be changed if somebody wanted to...

[rader1]

Yes, dyno numbers can be be manipulated by the operator.

[Longboarder]

So is Run1 at 17.5psi (75 start boost) and Run2 at 18psi?

I dyno'd last week and made 5 more RWHP at 16.5 psi vs 17psi. Curious if you did any pulls at lower boost levels?

[stratos_335]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

So is Run1 at 17.5psi (75 start boost) and Run2 at 18psi?

I dyno'd last week and made 5 more RWHP at 16.5 psi vs 17psi. Curious if you did any pulls at lower boost levels?

Maybe heat soaking made your intercooler warmer and so the intake air temperature.

It is true that our stock turbos are more efficient at lower boost levels, especially as the revs get higher.

The dyno took place after 5 minutes driving into the traffic (40C intake temperature). If the intake temperature was 20C with ambient temperature 15C the power curve would be higher. This is just a simplified assumption.

I remember someone's question "why is my car slower with less power than other cars with the same mods?" There are so many parameters that should be taken into consideration at these power levels...

I did not made pulls at map 1 or at lower boost levels. They charged me 80 Euros for the dyno and I was disappointed a bit with that... Too much money to acquiring a dyno graph...

[stratos_335]

Originally Posted by rader1

Yes, dyno numbers can be be manipulated by the operator.

How is that possible? What do they change? For instance on a Mustang...

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by stratos_335

Maybe heat soaking made your intercooler warmer and so the intake air temperature.

It is true that our stock turbos are more efficient at lower boost levels, especially as the revs get higher.

The dyno took place after 5 minutes driving into the traffic (40C intake temperature). If the intake temperature was 20C with ambient temperature 15C the power curve would be higher. This is just a simplified assumption.

I remember someone's question "why is my car slower with less power than other cars with the same mods?" There are so many parameters that should be taken into consideration at these power levels...

I did not made pulls at map 1 or at lower boost levels. They charged me 80 Euros for the dyno and I was disappointed a bit with that... Too much money to acquiring a dyno graph...

That is expensive. I got 13 pulls (could have done more) and had the dyno for an hour and a half for USD $140.

I was experimenting with different boost levels and different boost profiles. With the off-the-shelf 11-25 maps with the mods in my sig, 91 octane and 49/51 meth/water. So I suppose you could run more boost since you have more mods and higher octane than I did. What was interesting was that for all my runs, no matter how much tweaking I did, the HP figures didn't change much at all (my highest reading was maybe only 7 RWHP more than the lowest reading). Just goes to show that Shiv set up the aggressive maps at about the peak for most.

So in the end, your car is probably optimized and further dyno/tweaking would not have given much better results. You definitely should have gotten a baseline, though...because it's hard to analyze the dyno without one. Should your car be making 430 RWHP? Maybe...if your baseline was 300. But with a baseline of 275 FBO/Meth stock boost, then 412 sounds good.

[stratos_335]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

That is expensive. I got 13 pulls (could have done more) and had the dyno for an hour and a half for USD $140.

I was experimenting with different boost levels and different boost profiles. With the off-the-shelf 11-25 maps with the mods in my sig, 91 octane and 49/51 meth/water. So I suppose you could run more boost since you have more mods and higher octane than I did. What was interesting was that for all my runs, no matter how much tweaking I did, the HP figures didn't change much at all (my highest reading was maybe only 7 RWHP more than the lowest reading). Just goes to show that Shiv set up the aggressive maps at about the peak for most.

So in the end, your car is probably optimized and further dyno/tweaking would not have given much better results. You definitely should have gotten a baseline, though...because it's hard to analyze the dyno without one. Should your car be making 430 RWHP? Maybe...if your baseline was 300. But with a baseline of 275 FBO/Meth stock boost, then 412 sounds good.

Very informative feedback, thanks

Yes, without baseline dyno all the rest is just talking. Of course, every dyno gets different readings from place to place and all depend on the ambient parameters, the car and the dyno calibration.

I tried tweaking the settings as Shiv suggested at the thread "fun with ignition timing" with pre-agrressive maps. My car got stronger at higher rpm and the CAN actual ign advance hit 15.5 - 16.0 degrees. But now, I'm really afraid of doing that as aggressive maps push the engine, the fuel management and the transmission really hard.

The initial question was if the dyno parameters could be tweaked or not and of this could change the dyno graph. Of course, without baseline dyno all the numbers mean nothing. I was really excited standing behind my car that I totally forgot it.

I've got a video from the dyno. I should upload it....