[GesterOz]

Hey Guys - have purchased myself a CRD-T and Pedalbox for the 320D and am having a few issues installing it. Can anyone who has installed one of these possibly provide some feedback?

I can easily disconnect the fuel rail connector (underneath the rubber heat mould) but I cant for the life of me disconnect this plug (boost controller) at all. Ive tried for ages - pulling the white stick outwards then pulling the connector out

It just doesn't budge at all. I think I may have even used too much force and bent it slightly now Could this damage the sensor in the boost controller or make it less accurate?

Can anyone possibly advise how I can get this damn connector off!? Andrew mentioned there was a trick to getting it off but I cant get ahold of him at the moment.

The red box is the plug and the arrow is the white stalk that clicks in and out.

[luster]

Push white clip in, pull out, squeeze and pull.

repeat.

I always find the rail pressure sensor harder to take off

[GesterOz]

hey luster - thanks for the tips. Finally manged to get it out with a power clip lifting up the end of it. Crappy thing! Took like 3 hours to get it off haha. I just unscrewed the boost controller totally and it gave me easier access. Lots of soot(?) in the tube as well so I cleaned it out.

Also I know you've tried the pedalbox as well? How did you install that? (sorry for all the q's!)

Now I just have to try and keep my license..... its crazy how much you always want to feel that pull and before you know it you're at a 100 in a 60 zone

[pavo335]

Don't bother just push down harder

[luster]

The pedal box is easy, but annoying

[Gester]

sigh - I've run it on Map 3 +20% and it worked great for an hour but just going down the highway and went to overtake and I got an engine fault code and the car went into power reduced mode Im 200km from home for a few days and turning it off and on fixes it for like 2 minutes then it comes back.

Is the error code something to worry about? Just wondering if anyone else had error codes when using the CRD-T?

[luster]

Plug in the jumper unit to disable it.

I get an engine light from time to time and some shadow codes, but never reduced power.

A unit that blew up on me would crank and never start, had to remove box to get it to crank

[kaitan]

Somehow I'm finding that my eco-tune is much simpler to plug N play and give same amount of powa

[QLD]

Originally Posted by Gester

sigh - I've run it on Map 3 +20% and it worked great for an hour but just going down the highway and went to overtake and I got an engine fault code and the car went into power reduced mode Im 200km from home for a few days and turning it off and on fixes it for like 2 minutes then it comes back.

Is the error code something to worry about? Just wondering if anyone else had error codes when using the CRD-T?

A friend of mine had a code throw up once, but this turned out to be because the fuel in the tank was so low it caused an issue... once they filled up and never let it go below a quarter... it has never happened since.

Just do what what luster said - unplug the tuning box and plug on the 'blank plug' - this now restores everything to normal/standard. Move the jumpers to Map 3 +0% and reconnect... you should be fine.

The instructions clearly tell you that some trial and error testing may be required on every car when going beyond the +0% settings... just keep tweaking until you find yours.

Also, using shitty non-premium diesel can cause issues as well when playing with increased power percentages.

..........or so Im told

[Gester]

I stupidly forgot to bring the blank plug and it's now 200km away I'll definitely try putting it back to +0% and see if that helps me at least get home!

I filled up with the BP Ultimate Diesel about 50km before it happened so I practically had a full tank.

Surely if others can run theirs on Map 3 +20% I should be able too? Or is it because I started with the 184hp stock 320d instead of the 177hp version?

[QLD]

Nah, 135kw version is no issue... I'm sure it says that you can experience problems by hooking up the box, maxing out the settings and blasting off.... I thought it was recommended starting off at +10% and see if your car is happy... then increase to 20... 30... etc... you will then find the sweet spot.

Not every car is identical... and you could have a dodgy lead... connection... spark plug.. could be any minor issue that the increased power is now highlighting.

(and for the record.... always keep the blank plug in the glovebox for such dramas)

[luster]

you can run the car without the box, but it will be giving alot of errors and under reduced power.

[GesterOz]

I managed to set the Map 3 back to 0% so I could make it back home without getting the error as it was happening every time the car would start (as soon as the unit would turn on after 3000 rpm).

I haven't had any errors since, but after doing a bit of testing with it still at Map 3/0% and actually having the stereo off I now notice a really loud "fart" noise lol. I dont know any other way to describe it except if I am doing low rpm and between 40-60kph then try and accelerate fast so it drops a gear it makes this noise. I switched to Map 3/10% and the same noise happens.

It actually sounds very similar to the noise a VW Golf GTI makes with DSG (from within the cabin).

Is it possible this is just excess fuel burning like a DSG box or has anyone else noticed this??

I do think its crap that I cant run Map 3 + 20% when most other people with a 320D can do it just fine. I've since removed the CRD-T and installed the Pedalbox (which has transformed the car completely!) and really am considering just sending it back as the difference just isn't worth these possible problems and random engine errors

Just wondering if someone has info from Andrew@DTUK about what each Map actually does? I know Map 3 is the best and I cant be stuffed accepting a lesser Map when Map 3 should work?

[QLD]

Originally Posted by GesterOz

..........but I cant for the life of me disconnect this plug (boost controller) at all. I think I may have even used too much force and bent it slightly now Could this damage the sensor in the boost controller or make it less accurate?

Strange the way you are having problems, but no one else is.... but then again you did say this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

Post a pic of the circuit board jumpers set to map 3 +20%... just want to ensure you have set it correctly.

[luster]

Map 1

This is the ‘basic’ CRD-T map. Increase in boost and fuelling.

Map 2

This map has the same boost levels as Map 1, but slightly increased fuelling.


Map 3

Same fuelling as Map 1 this time, but with increased boost.

Map 4

This map has no extra boost at all – it’s just increased fuelling, the same as (presumably) the CRD2 or Red/Green boxes.

[Ninjaoz]

Originally Posted by GesterOz

I've since removed the CRD-T and installed the Pedalbox (which has transformed the car completely!) and really am considering just sending it back as the difference just isn't worth these possible problems and random engine errors

Just wondering if someone has info from Andrew@DTUK about what each Map actually does? I know Map 3 is the best and I cant be stuffed accepting a lesser Map when Map 3 should work?

sorry to hear that your experience was not what you had expected.

if you do decide to send it back to Andrew, I'm happy to buy it off from you.

[QLD]

Originally Posted by luster

Map 2
This map has the same boost levels as Map 1, but slightly increased fuelling.

OP = I would suggest you try Map 2 +20%

This gives you more boost than standard... plus more fuel pressure... this plus your pedalbox will produce very nice results, and should be bulletproof.

[Ninjaoz]

anyway i'm a bit shocked the OP went straight to Map 3 + 20% without any testing on other maps.

[GesterOz]

Thanks for the info Luster on the maps - I did find where you posted that before but was just hoping that Map 3 maybe wouldn't be the only map with increased fueling and boost!

Originally Posted by QLD

OP = I would suggest you try Map 2 +20%
This gives you more boost than standard... plus more fuel pressure... this plus your pedalbox will produce very nice results, and should be bulletproof.

Yeah great idea actually! I'll install the box back in tomorrow and try it with Map 2 + 20%. The lower boost may actually change the blip noise I hear sometimes when accelerating from lower rpm's.

In the end to connect the boost controller plug I used an allens key to take it completely out and realised that it was all intact and not bent at all (apart from a bit of soot on the inlet). I thought it may have had a few more electrics to it but it seems pretty solid.

QLD I'm guessing you're actually from Queensland somewhere? I'm kind of tempted to take the car to a dyno place and test each map out from stock, then Map 2 + 20% and then Map 3 + 20% which I may get lucky and it not throw an error during the test. Do you know any places in Brissy, if you're from here? Thanks for the help

Originally Posted by Ninja333

anyway i'm a bit shocked the OP went straight to Map 3 + 20% without any testing on other maps.

Yeah good point, I started straight on Map 3/0% (after hearing everywhere that this is by far the best Map for the 320d). After realising the difference wasn't crazily noticeable I increased it to Map 3/10% and then about 10km later Map 3/20% thinking I should be able to leave it on this. I'll definitely try more km's on lower settings first and see if I have the same symptoms!

I'll see if I can get rid of this blip noise and if it's not possible look at selling it If I could switch to a Superchip I would but it's not worth taking the ECU (mine would be encrypted) out everytime I need it coded or when I take it back to the dealer.

[GesterOz]

Sooo..... I did a decent drive 30-40km on Map 2 + 20% and after having decent stop start and highway driving I thought it was feeling really good and Id be happy to leave it on here.

I let the car cool down a bit, installed the Dynolicious app on the iPhone which has pretty good reviews to test 0-100 times and a rough gauge of power. I didn't really care what the figures it showed would be, rather just an ability to take a reading at stock, then Map 2, Map 3 and so on.

I drove out to an industrial dead end area and for about 90 minutes (with a 5 min break between each run I tested stock and Map 2 and 3. I turned traction control off for each run as well. Here's some of the results:

Stock
0-10 km/h: 0.69 sec
0-20 km/h: 1.13 sec
0-30 km/h: 1.55 sec
0-40 km/h: 2.09 sec
0-50 km/h: 2.88 sec
0-60 km/h: 3.59 sec
0-70 km/h: 4.52 sec
0-80 km/h: 5.51 sec
0-90 km/h: 6.59 sec
0-100 km/h: 7.81 sec
0-110 km/h: 9.26 sec
0-120 km/h: 10.98 sec
Max Speed: 120.4 km/h
Max Acceleration: 0.70 G's
Peak Horsepower: 134 HP


Map 2 + 20%
0-10 km/h: 0.61 sec
0-20 km/h: 1.05 sec
0-30 km/h: 1.57 sec
0-40 km/h: 2.14 sec
0-50 km/h: 2.68 sec
0-60 km/h: 3.37 sec
0-70 km/h: 4.32 sec
0-80 km/h: 5.20 sec
0-90 km/h: 6.22 sec
0-100 km/h: 7.33 sec
0-110 km/h: 8.69 sec
Max Speed: 111.6 km/h
Max Acceleration: 0.70 G's
Peak Horsepower: 144 HP

Map 2 + 30%
0-10 km/h: 0.67 sec
0-20 km/h: 1.09 sec
0-30 km/h: 1.52 sec
0-40 km/h: 2.17 sec
0-50 km/h: 2.74 sec
0-60 km/h: 3.40 sec
0-70 km/h: 4.31 sec
0-80 km/h: 5.20 sec
0-90 km/h: 6.20 sec
0-100 km/h: 7.29 sec
0-110 km/h: 8.67 sec
0-120 km/h: 10.14 sec
Max Speed: 120.5 km/h
Max Acceleration: 0.70 G's
Peak Horsepower: 147 HP

Map 3 + 20%
0-10 km/h: 0.90 sec
0-20 km/h: 1.40 sec
0-30 km/h: 1.98 sec
0-40 km/h: 2.46 sec
0-50 km/h: 3.02 sec
0-60 km/h: 3.68 sec
0-70 km/h: 4.58 sec
0-80 km/h: 5.43 sec
0-90 km/h: 6.39 sec
0-100 km/h: 7.48 sec
0-110 km/h: 8.93 sec
Max Speed: 117.5 km/h
Max Acceleration: 0.70 G's
Peak Horsepower: 149 HP


For the Map 3+20% run I think I left DTC/DSC on and it kicked in when launching, otherwise I think that would have been the faster run. Otherwise knowing that this setting DOES give me engine errors I thought, great Map 2 + 20% was good I'll leave it on that and all will be sweet

However, after waiting about 10 mins for the car to cool as I had just flogged it for 90 minutes lol, I pulled out from the industrial area and literally 500m down the road DING..... a fricking engine light!!

Just like when it came on before I wasn't accelerating hard rather low rpm and about 60kph. It actually seems to happen around the same spot that I heard the gear change blip (which only happens when changing up gears).

I'm pretty over this as Map 1 feels like it does bugger all and anything under +20% is just a waste of money for the unit as its not worth the risk (I still have the stupid blips) for such small gains.

I put the blanking plug back on and magically I have no blips and all is fine again

I think DTUK is away for Easter but I'll certainly try and give Andrew a call/message just to see if he can suggest anything as a last resort.

Otherwise what are my other options? I would love to get a Superchip but while under warranty that certainly isn't worth it either

[luster]

Can you run it without the boost pressure sensor connected and report back?

If it runs fine without this plugged in, you are better off just getting a single channel unit.

[QLD]

Sounds like a dodgy unit to me... send it back and get a replacement.