Need help please: sparked my alternator and now getting rough idle

blingman · 01-04-2012, 01:49 AM

I removed my alternator to give me more room to work on replacing the oil filter stand gasket and did not disconnect my battery, lesson learned, as I was putting the alternator cable back on, it sparked. When done, car still started fine and everything had power, I shut the car off. I then started it again to move the car and it was shuddering very hard. Getting code P1554. Any help is appreciated. I checked all big fuse under the glove and they are fine. Rough idle, I'm thinking maybe I need to clean the MAF sensor. I cant think of anything else it could be, I made sure all plugs are connected.

Timothy J · 01-04-2012, 02:00 AM

clean your vanos. could also be intake camshaft sensor

P1554 = Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Basic Setting Conditions not met

blingman · 01-04-2012, 02:07 AM

I will do that tmr. Thanks! I just changed my oil too. I thought the spark may have caused something to go bad but guess was just a coincidence.

blingman · 01-05-2012, 12:10 AM

I got a different code after I cleaned the vanos, p0341 which is related to camshaft. I made sure the connection was tight, restarted and idled fine then car died again. After few starts and dying I got another code p0015, still related to camshaft. After researching, I read that low battery can give a faulty camshaft code. I think when I sparked the alternator, the alternator is no longer working. Where can I find the alternator fuse or am I doomed and will need a new alternator?

Timothy J · 01-05-2012, 02:06 AM

I think it's your crankshaft sensor to be honest.

Ryebread · 01-05-2012, 06:36 AM

It could cure itself, hopefully it will.

blingman · 01-05-2012, 10:25 PM

Think I found the problem to be alternator is toast. I couldnt find an alternator fuse so I will be bringing the alternator to get tested. I have a scan gauge that plugged into the obd2 and voltage shows 11.7, as soon as I start the car, it drops to 10.1 and engine struggles and dies. Voltage never picks back up. I've read that low battery can set off camshaft sensor engine fault, so its not necessarily that the sensor is bad.

Chriztofor · 01-05-2012, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blingman

Think I found the problem to be alternator is toast. I couldnt find an alternator fuse so I will be bringing the alternator to get tested. I have a scan gauge that plugged into the obd2 and voltage shows 11.7, as soon as I start the car, it drops to 10.1 and engine struggles and dies. Voltage never picks back up. I've read that low battery can set off camshaft sensor engine fault, so its not necessarily that the sensor is bad.

Might be your ibs sensor.

mike3000fl · 01-05-2012, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriztofor

Might be your ibs sensor.

good call. you might be right.

blingman · 01-06-2012, 10:05 PM

Okay turns out alternator and battery is fine. I reset the codes and after couple start, car rough idling and then stalling. I get code P1553. I researched and found this could be either the camshaft position sensor or vanos solenoid that needs to be replaced. I have pulled and cleaned both vanos solenoid with compressed air and swap then when installing. That didnt help. Anyone else have this code and know which sensor to purchase? I really dont want to purchase both camshaft and both vanos if its really just one that needs to be replaced. Or is there a way to check the sensor with the voltmeter?

blingman · 01-08-2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriztofor

Might be your ibs sensor.

I dont have an IBS sensor in my car :/ its a 2006 325i. I dont see anything on the positive terminal and I have a harness laying around thats not plugged into anything. Is all e90 suppose to have an IBS sensor?

And wouldnt my car at least start and stay running until the battery is low. What its doing is struggling to start and when it finally starts up, it idles rough for few seconds then just stalls. Anyone with same symptoms? Code Im getting is P1553, but I've read that others got that code to but are still able to drive with no symptons.

Any help please?

Chriztofor · 01-09-2012, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blingman

I dont have an IBS sensor in my car :/ its a 2006 325i. I dont see anything on the positive terminal and I have a harness laying around thats not plugged into anything. Is all e90 suppose to have an IBS sensor?

And wouldnt my car at least start and stay running until the battery is low. What its doing is struggling to start and when it finally starts up, it idles rough for few seconds then just stalls. Anyone with same symptoms? Code Im getting is P1553, but I've read that others got that code to but are still able to drive with no symptons.

Any help please?

I believe we do, http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...46&hg=61&fg=30

Chriztofor · 01-09-2012, 02:11 AM

Take a look at this too http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/10/97/46

blingman · 01-09-2012, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriztofor

Take a look at this too http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/10/97/46

I'm missing cable #3 small one, and been driving the car for over 8 months without a problem. I guess I have 3 things that I will need check up on, vanos solenoid, cam sensor and ibs. I hope its one of those, if now then Im SOL.

Chriztofor · 01-09-2012, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blingman

I'm missing cable #3 small one, and been driving the car for over 8 months without a problem. I guess I have 3 things that I will need check up on, vanos solenoid, cam sensor and ibs. I hope its one of those, if now then Im SOL.

#3 is not necessary (i think), but your ibs is marked as #1.

creaminz · 01-17-2012, 08:49 PM

What happens if you have bad IBS?

blingman · 01-29-2012, 05:01 PM

Okay, reporting back. Finally had time to work on the car. Scanned car again just to make sure of what cel I got and I got a cel P1553. I cleared the code and replaced both Cam Adjuster Solenoids(referred to as Vanos I think) and car had a to struggle to start, but thats due to sitting out for few weeks and it started and idled fine. Car ran like normal. I figured the vanos was maintenance anyways as I've read storied about some going out as early at 20K or 60K and my car is almost at the 100K mark. Thanks for all the help, hopes this help someone out later on.

queensfield · 01-30-2012, 12:03 AM

Great your problem got solved. I am helping a friend with rough idling issues. Did you replace both intake and exhaust Vanos solenoids?

blingman · 01-30-2012, 06:24 PM

Yeah I replaced both at the same time. I figured their both due and didnt want the other going out few weeks later.

01-04-2012, 01:49 AM	#1
blingman Lieutenant 40 Rep 413 Posts Drives: 3er Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Houston iTrader: (2)	Need help please: sparked my alternator and now getting rough idle I removed my alternator to give me more room to work on replacing the oil filter stand gasket and did not disconnect my battery, lesson learned, as I was putting the alternator cable back on, it sparked. When done, car still started fine and everything had power, I shut the car off. I then started it again to move the car and it was shuddering very hard. Getting code P1554. Any help is appreciated. I checked all big fuse under the glove and they are fine. Rough idle, I'm thinking maybe I need to clean the MAF sensor. I cant think of anything else it could be, I made sure all plugs are connected.
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01-04-2012, 02:00 AM	#2
Timothy J Captain 49 Rep 752 Posts Drives: Too much Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hudson Valley, NY iTrader: (1)	clean your vanos. could also be intake camshaft sensor P1554 = Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Basic Setting Conditions not met __________________ 2001 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 2003 VW Jetta TDI 2012 BMW F800GS 2024 BMW M2 BSM 6MT Carbon Package
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01-05-2012, 12:10 AM	#4
blingman Lieutenant 40 Rep 413 Posts Drives: 3er Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Houston iTrader: (2)	I got a different code after I cleaned the vanos, p0341 which is related to camshaft. I made sure the connection was tight, restarted and idled fine then car died again. After few starts and dying I got another code p0015, still related to camshaft. After researching, I read that low battery can give a faulty camshaft code. I think when I sparked the alternator, the alternator is no longer working. Where can I find the alternator fuse or am I doomed and will need a new alternator?
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01-05-2012, 02:06 AM	#5
Timothy J Captain 49 Rep 752 Posts Drives: Too much Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hudson Valley, NY iTrader: (1)	I think it's your crankshaft sensor to be honest. __________________ 2001 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 2003 VW Jetta TDI 2012 BMW F800GS 2024 BMW M2 BSM 6MT Carbon Package
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01-05-2012, 06:36 AM	#6
Ryebread Diesel Fitter 36 Rep 424 Posts Drives: 335d m-sport LMB Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Philaburbia iTrader: (2) Garage List 2013 VW Golf R (awd ... [10.00] 2011 BMW 335D m-sport [0.00]	It could cure itself, hopefully it will. __________________ lemans 335D m-sport SOLD rising blue Golf R SOLD sepang blue Audi S3
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01-04-2012, 02:07 AM	#3
blingman Lieutenant 40 Rep 413 Posts Drives: 3er Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Houston iTrader: (2)	I will do that tmr. Thanks! I just changed my oil too. I thought the spark may have caused something to go bad but guess was just a coincidence.
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01-05-2012, 10:25 PM	#7
blingman Lieutenant 40 Rep 413 Posts Drives: 3er Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Houston iTrader: (2)	Think I found the problem to be alternator is toast. I couldnt find an alternator fuse so I will be bringing the alternator to get tested. I have a scan gauge that plugged into the obd2 and voltage shows 11.7, as soon as I start the car, it drops to 10.1 and engine struggles and dies. Voltage never picks back up. I've read that low battery can set off camshaft sensor engine fault, so its not necessarily that the sensor is bad.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-06-2012, 10:05 PM	#10
blingman Lieutenant 40 Rep 413 Posts Drives: 3er Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Houston iTrader: (2)	Okay turns out alternator and battery is fine. I reset the codes and after couple start, car rough idling and then stalling. I get code P1553. I researched and found this could be either the camshaft position sensor or vanos solenoid that needs to be replaced. I have pulled and cleaned both vanos solenoid with compressed air and swap then when installing. That didnt help. Anyone else have this code and know which sensor to purchase? I really dont want to purchase both camshaft and both vanos if its really just one that needs to be replaced. Or is there a way to check the sensor with the voltmeter?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-09-2012, 02:11 AM	#13
Chriztofor Colonel 103 Rep 2,783 Posts Drives: '06 325i and '13 X5 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Burbs iTrader: (1)	Take a look at this too http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/10/97/46 __________________ If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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01-17-2012, 08:49 PM	#16
creaminz Major General 545 Rep 7,705 Posts Drives: E90 LCI Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: So. Cal iTrader: (33)	What happens if you have bad IBS?
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01-29-2012, 05:01 PM	#17
blingman Lieutenant 40 Rep 413 Posts Drives: 3er Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Houston iTrader: (2)	Okay, reporting back. Finally had time to work on the car. Scanned car again just to make sure of what cel I got and I got a cel P1553. I cleared the code and replaced both Cam Adjuster Solenoids(referred to as Vanos I think) and car had a to struggle to start, but thats due to sitting out for few weeks and it started and idled fine. Car ran like normal. I figured the vanos was maintenance anyways as I've read storied about some going out as early at 20K or 60K and my car is almost at the 100K mark. Thanks for all the help, hopes this help someone out later on.
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01-30-2012, 12:03 AM	#18
queensfield First Lieutenant 21 Rep 364 Posts Drives: 2006 330i E90 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: So Cal iTrader: (0)	Great your problem got solved. I am helping a friend with rough idling issues. Did you replace both intake and exhaust Vanos solenoids?
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01-30-2012, 06:24 PM	#19
blingman Lieutenant 40 Rep 413 Posts Drives: 3er Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Houston iTrader: (2)	Yeah I replaced both at the same time. I figured their both due and didnt want the other going out few weeks later.
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