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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > My wheel pops frontward under braking and acceleration!!!



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      11-08-2011, 07:45 PM   #1
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My wheel pops frontward under braking and acceleration!!!

So, I had my car lowered with new shocks and springs and after 2 weeks (waited for the springs to settle) I took my car to get aligned. The tech at the shop told me that a suspension part is broken (forgot the name of the part)

He got into the car, let the car roll (5 mph) and then he pressed on the brake and the front wheel popped forward, maybe an inch or two and it made a "popping" noise... He said I may have to take the car to the dealer. F**K!!!

Any help? please!
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      11-08-2011, 07:47 PM   #2
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If your forgot the name of the part, it makes things harder. Why don't you find out what exactly is wrong. Maybe even add some pics to get us an idea what you're talking about.
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      11-08-2011, 08:04 PM   #3
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post pics of the offending part.

i would be cautious driving, if something gets worse you could lose control of the vehicle's direction.
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      11-08-2011, 08:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike3000fl View Post
post pics of the offending part.

i would be cautious driving, if something gets worse you could lose control of the vehicle's direction.
Uhhh, if the wheel moves forward while braking, then I'd deadline car until I could get it fixed. Loss of steering at any speed is not fun.

Have the car towed to a trusted indy and have the issue resolved. You have to pay to play. Now you have to pay - but please do it before you have a catastrophic failure.
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      11-08-2011, 09:36 PM   #5
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Bad thrust arm bushings. It causes the wheel to bump rearward under braking and over bumps. You said frontward, but it shifts suddenly and looks odd. They should be replaced promptly and alignment checked. Thrust arm bushings don't change the alignment significantly after replacement. And take your car to a better shop tor the alignment. A good BMW or German specific shop would have been able to fix your car provided they had room in the schedule.

Also you can align a car right away after setting it down on a new suspension. Only certain Porsches like 928s have to be driven to "settle" the suspension.
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      11-08-2011, 11:25 PM   #6
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I'll give that shop a call tomorrow and see if they can tell me the part name. He said its okay to drive it, but it needs to be replaced asap otherwise the wheels will never align and the popping will obviously not go away.
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      11-09-2011, 07:28 AM   #7
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Just remember, the guy who said its OK to drive is not the guy in the car.
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      11-09-2011, 08:34 AM   #8
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I had teh same thing happen to me.... Stock suspension on a 335 E92 with sports package. The front left wheel would sort of hop side to side upon braking. I have a pulsing in my pedal too when braking but though my rotors were messed up.

To make a long story short, it was the control arms that required replacement.

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      11-09-2011, 08:48 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335coupe2007 View Post
"pressed on the brake and the front wheel popped forward, maybe an inch or two and it made a "popping" noise"

"He said its okay to drive it, but it needs to be replaced asap"

IM NOT ANY KIND OF MECHANIC AND AS A MATTER OF FACT im somewhat retarded when it comes to cars thats why im on here so i can learn about this stuff and what our car has to offer..... HOWEVER.... as they say on ESPN..

C'MON MAN!!!!!!!!
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      11-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWtoBMW View Post

To make a long story short, it was the control arms that required replacement.
I know, I know... I'm definitely going to drive cautiously and get this done asap. Btw, I called the shop and he told me that the "control arms" need replacement. The specific name is radius rod/tie rod...

$580 bucks for replacement of parts, labor and including the 4-wheel alignment...
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      11-09-2011, 02:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azul335 View Post
I know, I know... I'm definitely going to drive cautiously and get this done asap. Btw, I called the shop and he told me that the "control arms" need replacement. The specific name is radius rod/tie rod...

$580 bucks for replacement of parts, labor and including the 4-wheel alignment...
I wouldnt even drive that thing around the block. Might bend/mess something else up.
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      11-09-2011, 04:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaker View Post
I wouldnt even drive that thing around the block. Might bend/mess something else up.
Why? Steering is way overrated anyway.

I remember a noise in the suspension of my 68 Dodge Dart. The shop said I'd need a new A arm but (I was in Europe at the time) they'd have to order it. They said it was OK to drive it.

Two days later the arm broke pulling out of a parking lot, taking a bunch of other parts with it and leaving my car sitting on the ground in the lot. Had it gone while I was on a road then it could have had a catastrophic ending.

Deadline the car until you get it fixed.
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      11-09-2011, 04:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azul335 View Post
I know, I know... I'm definitely going to drive cautiously and get this done asap. Btw, I called the shop and he told me that the "control arms" need replacement. The specific name is radius rod/tie rod...

$580 bucks for replacement of parts, labor and including the 4-wheel alignment...
That seems like alot. If the are replacing the tie rod then it shouldn't take long.

I replaced my driver's side in under 30 minutes. And alignment shouldn't be more than $125 MAX. And I paid around $140 for the tie rod assembly IIRC.
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      11-09-2011, 04:41 PM   #14
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I'm taking the car into the dealer on Monday to have it checked out

1. Car jerks forward while downshifting (5mph) - software upgrade?
2. Hard brake pedal- Brake booster failed?
3. Broken control arm/rod... warranty?

Hopefully some of this stuff is under CPO warranty....

Alignment shouldn't be more than $125? I live in North Cali, not to mention in one of the more expensive counties... I shouldn't complain. That's way better than the $325 my local dealer is asking...

Sometimes saving $50 isn't worth the drive, crappy roads in some areas, bridge tolls, Prius drivers and traffic!!!
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      11-15-2011, 02:18 PM   #15
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I went to my BMW Dealer yesterday and they gave me 3 answers...
Brake booster failed- Yes, under warranty
No jerking detected- bulls**t! I asked them to try again!
Broken arm/rod - not under CPO.... They want $1,500 + alignment

They told me it must have broken while driving, maybe hit a pothole... They recommended me to file a claim with my insurance (my deductible is $1,000) so I'm not so sure if i even want to go there

That or I go with that local shop and pay 1/3 of what the stealershop is wanting to charge...

I also think i might give my City a call and ask them to pay for it... Where's all my tax money going b*tches? Breaking my car parts with their bad roads...
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      11-15-2011, 02:43 PM   #16
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If you really have a control arm/bushing issue I'd get it fixed before you drive on it. Even if you don't end up wrecking other suspension components, you'll ruin your tires because they will be wobbling around.
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      11-15-2011, 03:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceb View Post
Why? Steering is way overrated anyway.

I remember a noise in the suspension of my 68 Dodge Dart. The shop said I'd need a new A arm but (I was in Europe at the time) they'd have to order it. They said it was OK to drive it.

Two days later the arm broke pulling out of a parking lot, taking a bunch of other parts with it and leaving my car sitting on the ground in the lot. Had it gone while I was on a road then it could have had a catastrophic ending.

Deadline the car until you get it fixed.
Nice ride man, I always loved the rear-end of the 68 Dart.

I still have my 72 Dart Swinger in the driveway (my first car, bought it when I was 18). I'm about to start fixing it up and I was looking at this crazy ass front suspension: http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumfor...ar_kmember.htm

Expensive, but damn does it look 1000x better than the stock setup!
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      11-15-2011, 03:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azul335 View Post
I went to my BMW Dealer yesterday and they gave me 3 answers...
Brake booster failed- Yes, under warranty
No jerking detected- bulls**t! I asked them to try again!
Broken arm/rod - not under CPO.... They want $1,500 + alignment

They told me it must have broken while driving, maybe hit a pothole... They recommended me to file a claim with my insurance (my deductible is $1,000) so I'm not so sure if i even want to go there

That or I go with that local shop and pay 1/3 of what the stealershop is wanting to charge...

I also think i might give my City a call and ask them to pay for it... Where's all my tax money going b*tches? Breaking my car parts with their bad roads...
Who's fault is that? Who had the car lowered?
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      11-15-2011, 03:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azul335 View Post
I went to my BMW Dealer yesterday and they gave me 3 answers...
Brake booster failed- Yes, under warranty
No jerking detected- bulls**t! I asked them to try again!
Broken arm/rod - not under CPO.... They want $1,500 + alignment

They told me it must have broken while driving, maybe hit a pothole... They recommended me to file a claim with my insurance (my deductible is $1,000) so I'm not so sure if i even want to go there

That or I go with that local shop and pay 1/3 of what the stealershop is wanting to charge...

I also think i might give my City a call and ask them to pay for it... Where's all my tax money going b*tches? Breaking my car parts with their bad roads...
You've been driving on that thing for a week??
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      11-15-2011, 09:08 PM   #20
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^^^^obvious troll, is obvious.

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      11-16-2011, 08:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike3000fl View Post
^^^^obvious troll, is obvious.


?
Would you drive that thing for a week? From a dealers point of view, do you think altering suspension could have contributed to the problem?
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      11-16-2011, 02:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaker View Post
?
Would you drive that thing for a week? From a dealers point of view, do you think altering suspension could have contributed to the problem?
i was talking about you quoting his post, twice in a row, and responding with negative shit. why not combine the two posts into one? they were 1 minute apart, both fully quoting his post, seems like obvious trolling to me.
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