Car Won't Start // Please help !

Econ2001 · 11-03-2011, 12:44 AM

After browsing the forum for the last 20 months, I've finally joined, and am in need of a little help. Let me preface this by saying thanks to all those that contribute to DIY and other threads. This forum is fantastic...

My car won't start, and I cannot figure it out. This is what I have:
2006 325i with 99XXX miles w/ Idrive w/ automatic, non-sport.
No recent repairs. New non-bmw battery (carquest) in May '11.
Parked it at lunch (in a level parking lot) on a cold (35 F) rainy day, and it would not start 4 hours later.

Initially, no error messages given. when attempting to start. Idrive went through typical start up, only the clock on the center screen between gauges lit up. interior lights, door lock, radio all worked. Starter did not attempt to engage. Idrive would disappear when attempting to start. Steering was locked, but no steering lock error shown.

Attempted to jump later that evening from the front of the car, under the hood. similar response. No starter noise, Idrive went through typical start up. No error messages. **Did get indicator that key was in ignition. Steering still locked with no error message shown.

Attempted to jump from battery. Same as above.

Day 2. Still cold, not wet.

When attempting to start, indicates key is in ignition. No clicking, no sound from the starter.

Attempted to jump start from engine compartment. No error messages initially. Kept cables connected to jumping leads, while other vehicle ran its engine for 10 minutes or so. Then:

Idrive would go through its initial screen, then show the following error messages (in no particular order):
Steering wheel lock (steering wheel would actually move)
ABS
Airbag restraint (possibly passenger restraint error) nothing on pass seat
Transmission malfunction
Still showed key in ignition.
Wiper blades were going back and forth. Could not turn them off, stalk was not controlling them. They would run if the key was in ignition.

Removed battery (then shut my trunk) and had it tested. It had 12.18v, auto parts tech said it should have 12.7. Battery was charged at autoparts store for 50 minutes, reinstalled. Have the same error messages as noted last.

There was a faint click (single click) from near glovebox when I depressed the start button. Put hand on fuses and could not feel anything when clicking noise was repeated.

Please help with any leads, thoughts or solutions you have...

I will offer the following: You can open your trunk when the battery is removed, or dead. Simply connect jumper cables to the jump points under your hood and the trunk may be opened. (totally panicked when I shut the dang thing after taking the battery out. Other posts I've read recently made it sound like I'd have to short something or burrow through my rear seat cushion which does not have a ski boot.)

Yes, I did search for an answer myself, but couldn't figure out how to spell BMW backwards, nor could I get the answer right asking about whether a car or a bus is bigger. The short bus I rode in school was certainly smaller than some cars I've seen.
I appreciate your help.

Got the car back from the dealer today 11/7/11, five days after posting.
They diagnosed a faulty IBS Sensor(negative battery terminal). Car is back to normal and running great. Thanks for the ideas, which I asked the dealer to look into. Glad it wasn't a starter or the CAS module.
Here are the notes for your reference:
"Client states vehicle would not start, tried to jump-no start, has lock, trans, pass reset, Abs error, new battery"
"Replace IBS Sensor (negative battery terminal).(found IBS(negative battery cable) Shorting down wake-up line from CAS. Need to replace sensor)"
Parts: Adapter Lead 161129123571 $18.25
Battery Cable Negative 161129215952 $216.86
"Found vehicle would not start and all the pt-can was down. After checking all modules on pt-can. Swapped in cas and keys. Elv steering column. No Change. WIthn different cas got fault for wake up line. Started checking items on line. Found that IBS was pulling line down. Removed and replaced IBS Sensor on negative battery cable. All systems operated as intended."

Thanks again for the help!!!

apc3libras · 11-03-2011, 01:04 AM

My guess is a battery issue. The dealer or someone with the right tool needs to register the battery for optimal voltage but not sure the battery you have can be registered. Not sure why it just started acting up.

WWONG · 11-03-2011, 01:09 AM

If there's no starter noise, the ignition button works, and you get power in the car, then there's only two things that can be wrong.
1) Battery
2) Starter

The way I look at it, choose to fix any one of those and you have a 50% of success. Wouldn't be surprised if it was actually both, however.

JamesM3M5 · 11-03-2011, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WWONG

If there's no starter noise, the ignition button works, and you get power in the car, then there's only two things that can be wrong.
1) Battery
2) Starter

The way I look at it, choose to fix any one of those and you have a 50% of success. Wouldn't be surprised if it was actually both, however.

There's a lot more than that. You will probably have to have the car towed to a shop that can check codes in all the systems such as the Car Access System (CAS) and DME. If you have good battery voltage, then there is something else wrong and the CAS is not allowing the car to start or the DME is not allowing the CAS to engage the starter for some other fault.

fdriller9 · 11-03-2011, 08:33 AM

Check fuse 20.

Also there is a service bulletin out for a faulty positive battery connection at the fuse panel in the glove compartment.

dspec20 · 11-03-2011, 12:33 PM

I just went through this exact situation yesterday. Everything in the car would turn on but it would not start. I went through all the steps you mentioned plus some.
Turns out it was the starter and once it was replaced everything was back to normal. Hope you get it sorted out.

Tom K. · 11-03-2011, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

There's a lot more than that. You will probably have to have the car towed to a shop that can check codes in all the systems such as the Car Access System (CAS) and DME. If you have good battery voltage, then there is something else wrong and the CAS is not allowing the car to start or the DME is not allowing the CAS to engage the starter for some other fault.

Also, check the IBS unit, and please get the battery properly registered.

Tom

Cisco661 · 11-03-2011, 06:24 PM

I Had Similar Issue At About 60k. It Was The Starter Motor. Dealership Said It Was A $1200 Repair. Lucky I Had Cpo. Also Could Be That Ur Battery Wasnt Programmed Into Your Car.

Econ2001 · 11-03-2011, 08:57 PM

The car was towed to the local dealer today. Discussed the symptoms with the SA and they indicated they will check the codes and let me know. They indicated the starter was a likely culprit, but should know after checking codes.

I'll report back after I hear more. Thanks for your posts..

dspec20 · 11-04-2011, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cisco661

I Had Similar Issue At About 60k. It Was The Starter Motor. Dealership Said It Was A $1200 Repair. Lucky I Had Cpo. Also Could Be That Ur Battery Wasnt Programmed Into Your Car.

$1200? Dealers really now how to screw people. My family mechanic charged me $250 out the door.

fdriller9 · 11-04-2011, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dspec20

$1200? Dealers really now how to screw people. My family mechanic charged me $250 out the door.

That's hard to believe since a new starter is about $260.

You have to remove alot to get to the starter on our cars. Basically everything above the intake manifold.

dspec20 · 11-04-2011, 03:10 PM

I got a rebuilt starter. I didnt mind not going new since it is overpriced and they are proven to not be very reliable. So believe me it was $250.
Either way with a new starter being $260, is it really $940 in labor to replace it. Taking off an intake manifold is not an all day job.

fdriller9 · 11-04-2011, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dspec20

I got a rebuilt starter. I didnt mind not going new since it is overpriced and they are proven to not be very reliable. So believe me it was $250.
Either way with a new starter being $260, is it really $940 in labor to replace it. Taking off an intake manifold is not an all day job.

Yea the rebuilt starter is $260 from Tischer with a $50 core charge. New one was like $400 but I don't think they even sell new ones anymore.

The dealership is always going to be more expensive. For starters their hourly rate is higher. Secondly, they have to follow BMW's procedures on replacing parts so it's not that it takes them all day, that's what the procedure calls for.

Us DIYers can take short cuts but BMW techs aren't suppose to.

Good for you that you got it done for $250. That's super cheap.

Econ2001 · 11-07-2011, 11:15 PM

Got the car back from the dealer today 11/7/11, five days after posting.
They diagnosed a faulty IBS Sensor(negative battery terminal). Car is back to normal and running great. Thanks for the ideas, which I asked the dealer to look into. Glad it wasn't a starter or the CAS module.
Here are the notes for your reference:
"Client states vehicle would not start, tried to jump-no start, has lock, trans, pass reset, Abs error, new battery"
"Replace IBS Sensor (negative battery terminal).(found IBS(negative battery cable) Shorting down wake-up line from CAS. Need to replace sensor)"
Parts: Adapter Lead 161129123571 $18.25
Battery Cable Negative 161129215952 $216.86
"Found vehicle would not start and all the pt-can was down. After checking all modules on pt-can. Swapped in cas and keys. Elv steering column. No Change. WIthn different cas got fault for wake up line. Started checking items on line. Found that IBS was pulling line down. Removed and replaced IBS Sensor on negative battery cable. All systems operated as intended."

Thanks again for the help!!!

username604 · 11-08-2011, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Econ2001

All systems operated as intended.

rws2020 · 11-26-2011, 08:13 PM

I have a 2006 325i, bout 65,000 on it. Battery indicator looks good, everything lights up strong, the engine does not turn over at all. When I press the start button I hear a low volume electronic "whine" for approx 20 sec. No clicks, etc.

Any DIY tips on replacing starter? I'm reading that you need radio codes and possibly other codes before you disconnect battery otherwise you will be at dealer anyways?

Also, do you have to get new bolts for exhaust manifold reinstall? I assume you need new bolts for the starter reinstall.

Wookiequoc · 12-06-2011, 11:49 PM

Did you try checking your fuses? I had a similar issue with my 07 335i not starting. As I was being jumped from my friends truck, the checked the fuses. The fuses I pulled out (sorry, I can't remember at this moment which fuses I just remember one of them being green) looked fine and when I stuck them back in, I tried to start the car. It started right up. My friend was connected to the car for not more that 10 minutes. It wasn't the battery either cause I checked that later.

HueyT09 · 12-25-2013, 10:04 AM

Hey guys!

Sorry for bringing this up again... I have the same issue. I thought it could be cause by my weak battery since the eye on it it's black so yesterday, I went to the dealer and got it replace by a brand new. Today it is -18 degree Celsius outside and the car won't freaking start. All it does it's a slow crank.

Any help ?

TheTal0n · 09-06-2014, 12:22 AM

I had the exact same symptoms, I was just hoping you could mention a few codes that were present during this? If you can remember.

11-03-2011, 12:44 AM	#1
Econ2001 New Member 5 Rep 14 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Utah iTrader: (0)	Car Won't Start // Please help ! After browsing the forum for the last 20 months, I've finally joined, and am in need of a little help. Let me preface this by saying thanks to all those that contribute to DIY and other threads. This forum is fantastic... My car won't start, and I cannot figure it out. This is what I have: 2006 325i with 99XXX miles w/ Idrive w/ automatic, non-sport. No recent repairs. New non-bmw battery (carquest) in May '11. Parked it at lunch (in a level parking lot) on a cold (35 F) rainy day, and it would not start 4 hours later. Initially, no error messages given. when attempting to start. Idrive went through typical start up, only the clock on the center screen between gauges lit up. interior lights, door lock, radio all worked. Starter did not attempt to engage. Idrive would disappear when attempting to start. Steering was locked, but no steering lock error shown. Attempted to jump later that evening from the front of the car, under the hood. similar response. No starter noise, Idrive went through typical start up. No error messages. *Did get indicator that key was in ignition. Steering still locked with no error message shown. Attempted to jump from battery. Same as above. Day 2. Still cold, not wet. When attempting to start, indicates key is in ignition. No clicking, no sound from the starter. Attempted to jump start from engine compartment. No error messages initially. Kept cables connected to jumping leads, while other vehicle ran its engine for 10 minutes or so. Then: Idrive would go through its initial screen, then show the following error messages (in no particular order): Steering wheel lock (steering wheel would actually move) ABS Airbag restraint (possibly passenger restraint error) nothing on pass seat Transmission malfunction Still showed key in ignition. Wiper blades were going back and forth. Could not turn them off, stalk was not controlling them. They would run if the key was in ignition. Removed battery (then shut my trunk) and had it tested. It had 12.18v, auto parts tech said it should have 12.7. Battery was charged at autoparts store for 50 minutes, reinstalled. Have the same error messages as noted last. There was a faint click (single click) from near glovebox when I depressed the start button. Put hand on fuses and could not feel anything when clicking noise was repeated. Please help with any leads, thoughts or solutions you have... I will offer the following: You can open your trunk when the battery is removed, or dead. Simply connect jumper cables to the jump points under your hood and the trunk may be opened. (totally panicked when I shut the dang thing after taking the battery out. Other posts I've read recently made it sound like I'd have to short something or burrow through my rear seat cushion which does not have a ski boot.) Yes, I did search for an answer myself, but couldn't figure out how to spell BMW backwards, nor could I get the answer right asking about whether a car or a bus is bigger. The short bus I rode in school was certainly smaller than some cars I've seen. I appreciate your help. Got the car back from the dealer today 11/7/11, five days after posting. They diagnosed a faulty IBS Sensor(negative battery terminal). Car is back to normal and running great. Thanks for the ideas, which I asked the dealer to look into. Glad it wasn't a starter or the CAS module. Here are the notes for your reference: "Client states vehicle would not start, tried to jump-no start, has lock, trans, pass reset, Abs error, new battery" "Replace IBS Sensor (negative battery terminal).(found IBS(negative battery cable) Shorting down wake-up line from CAS. Need to replace sensor)" Parts: Adapter Lead 161129123571 $18.25 Battery Cable Negative 161129215952 $216.86 "Found vehicle would not start and all the pt-can was down. After checking all modules on pt-can. Swapped in cas and keys. Elv steering column. No Change. WIthn different cas got fault for wake up line. Started checking items on line. Found that IBS was pulling line down. Removed and replaced IBS Sensor on negative battery cable. All systems operated as intended." Thanks again for the help!!! Last edited by Econ2001; 11-07-2011 at 11:14 PM..*
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11-03-2011, 01:04 AM	#2
apc3libras Lieutenant Colonel 35 Rep 1,691 Posts Drives: E36 M3 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: UTAH iTrader: (3) Garage List 1999 BMW M3 [4.00]	My guess is a battery issue. The dealer or someone with the right tool needs to register the battery for optimal voltage but not sure the battery you have can be registered. Not sure why it just started acting up. __________________ 2007 BMW 328I Monaco Blue /// 1999 BMW M3 Titanium Silver /// 2007 BMW 328I Sparkling Graphite (sold)
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11-03-2011, 01:09 AM	#3
WWONG Banned 109 Rep 1,830 Posts Drives: 2012 BMW X5 xDrive35d Join Date: May 2010 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (14)	If there's no starter noise, the ignition button works, and you get power in the car, then there's only two things that can be wrong. 1) Battery 2) Starter The way I look at it, choose to fix any one of those and you have a 50% of success. Wouldn't be surprised if it was actually both, however.
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11-03-2011, 08:33 AM	#5
fdriller9 Banned 253 Rep 7,089 Posts Drives: '06 AW 330xi Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North Jersey/Philly/NYC iTrader: (4) Garage List 2006 330xi [6.44]	Check fuse 20. Also there is a service bulletin out for a faulty positive battery connection at the fuse panel in the glove compartment.
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11-03-2011, 12:33 PM	#6
dspec20 New Member 0 Rep 18 Posts Drives: 328i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Lauderdale iTrader: (0)	I just went through this exact situation yesterday. Everything in the car would turn on but it would not start. I went through all the steps you mentioned plus some. Turns out it was the starter and once it was replaced everything was back to normal. Hope you get it sorted out.
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11-03-2011, 06:24 PM	#8
Cisco661 Cisco661 61 Rep 974 Posts Drives: 2006 Monaco Blue 330I Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: California iTrader: (17) Garage List 2006 BMW 330i [0.00]	SAME HERE I Had Similar Issue At About 60k. It Was The Starter Motor. Dealership Said It Was A $1200 Repair. Lucky I Had Cpo. Also Could Be That Ur Battery Wasnt Programmed Into Your Car.
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11-03-2011, 08:57 PM	#9
Econ2001 New Member 5 Rep 14 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Utah iTrader: (0)	The car was towed to the local dealer today. Discussed the symptoms with the SA and they indicated they will check the codes and let me know. They indicated the starter was a likely culprit, but should know after checking codes. I'll report back after I hear more. Thanks for your posts..
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11-04-2011, 03:10 PM	#12
dspec20 New Member 0 Rep 18 Posts Drives: 328i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Lauderdale iTrader: (0)	I got a rebuilt starter. I didnt mind not going new since it is overpriced and they are proven to not be very reliable. So believe me it was $250. Either way with a new starter being $260, is it really $940 in labor to replace it. Taking off an intake manifold is not an all day job.
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11-07-2011, 11:15 PM	#14
Econ2001 New Member 5 Rep 14 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Utah iTrader: (0)	Solution! Got the car back from the dealer today 11/7/11, five days after posting. They diagnosed a faulty IBS Sensor(negative battery terminal). Car is back to normal and running great. Thanks for the ideas, which I asked the dealer to look into. Glad it wasn't a starter or the CAS module. Here are the notes for your reference: "Client states vehicle would not start, tried to jump-no start, has lock, trans, pass reset, Abs error, new battery" "Replace IBS Sensor (negative battery terminal).(found IBS(negative battery cable) Shorting down wake-up line from CAS. Need to replace sensor)" Parts: Adapter Lead 161129123571 $18.25 Battery Cable Negative 161129215952 $216.86 "Found vehicle would not start and all the pt-can was down. After checking all modules on pt-can. Swapped in cas and keys. Elv steering column. No Change. WIthn different cas got fault for wake up line. Started checking items on line. Found that IBS was pulling line down. Removed and replaced IBS Sensor on negative battery cable. All systems operated as intended." Thanks again for the help!!!
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11-26-2011, 08:13 PM	#16
rws2020 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Orange County, Ca iTrader: (0)	Won't Start....think its the starter I have a 2006 325i, bout 65,000 on it. Battery indicator looks good, everything lights up strong, the engine does not turn over at all. When I press the start button I hear a low volume electronic "whine" for approx 20 sec. No clicks, etc. Any DIY tips on replacing starter? I'm reading that you need radio codes and possibly other codes before you disconnect battery otherwise you will be at dealer anyways? Also, do you have to get new bolts for exhaust manifold reinstall? I assume you need new bolts for the starter reinstall.
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12-06-2011, 11:49 PM	#17
Wookiequoc Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 07 335i sedan Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Pensacola, FL iTrader: (0)	Did you try checking your fuses? I had a similar issue with my 07 335i not starting. As I was being jumped from my friends truck, the checked the fuses. The fuses I pulled out (sorry, I can't remember at this moment which fuses I just remember one of them being green) looked fine and when I stuck them back in, I tried to start the car. It started right up. My friend was connected to the car for not more that 10 minutes. It wasn't the battery either cause I checked that later.
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12-25-2013, 10:04 AM	#18
HueyT09 New Member 0 Rep 11 Posts Drives: 2006 E90 330xi Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Gatineau iTrader: (0)	Hey guys! Sorry for bringing this up again... I have the same issue. I thought it could be cause by my weak battery since the eye on it it's black so yesterday, I went to the dealer and got it replace by a brand new. Today it is -18 degree Celsius outside and the car won't freaking start. All it does it's a slow crank. Any help ? __________________ 330xi e90/ AFE Pro5R CIA / AA stage 2 tune / obx catless headers / Megan lowering springs
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09-06-2014, 12:22 AM	#19
TheTal0n Captain 51 Rep 605 Posts Drives: 2006 330i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Utah iTrader: (0)	I had the exact same symptoms, I was just hoping you could mention a few codes that were present during this? If you can remember.
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