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      09-25-2011, 05:27 PM   #1
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CDV mod went wrong, Clutch feels lifeless *fixed?*

I did the CDV mod on my e90xi this weekend and it did not go well. I topped the brake fluid off before hand just in case. The clamp fell off because the extra drive shaft was in the way and the fluid took much of the paint off the shaft. Bleeding the clutch went wrong too. My friend held the pedal down while I operated the bleeder. Once fluid came out I shut the bleeder. The clutch still felt lifeless. I reopened the valve and let it bleed to see if air was deeper in the line for about 10 seconds then closed it. Nothing. I poured in more brake fluid to replace the lost fluid. I pumped the clutch myself to take the car out of gear and start the car. Once the car was running the clutch started to regain life. I drove it around for about an hour and the car felt like a real manual for once in its life. I left it in on the street for about 2 hours. When I went to put it in the garage for the night the clutch still felt normal. This morning the clutch was lifeless; I had to pump the clutch for a few minutes. I checked the brake fluid and it was still at max line. I am think there is an air bubble still in the line and I have to bleed again.

What should I do? My friend who helped me said I should have a stealership change all of my fluid. The other option I thought of would be to bleed the clutch with the car on and the clutch pumped till it's normal so the air bubble is forced out if that is the problem.

UPDATE: Page 2, Post #24

UPDATE 2: Page 2, Post #41

Last edited by ndog14; 10-01-2011 at 11:50 AM.. Reason: title is not informative enough for the issue, update
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      09-25-2011, 08:22 PM   #2
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      09-25-2011, 08:53 PM   #3
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After reveiwing my Manual it looks like you may need a BMW tool No. 21 5 030. According to the manual you must unbolt the clutch slave cylinder place the tool on the slave cylinder and depress the pushrod completely into the slave cylinder. Then hold the slave cylinder so that the bleeder valve is at the highest point. Apply no more than 2 bar (29psi) of pressure at the fluid resevor. and open the bleed valve until the fuild if fully changed and no air is present. Top off resevor when complete. Torgue Clutch Slave cylinder to transmission at 22Mm (16 ft-lb).

Bleeding tool http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-28...pean-cars.aspx
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      09-25-2011, 09:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3s4u2 View Post
After reveiwing my Manual it looks like you may need a BMW tool No. 21 5 030. According to the manual you must unbolt the clutch slave cylinder place the tool on the slave cylinder and depress the pushrod completely into the slave cylinder. Then hold the slave cylinder so that the bleeder valve is at the highest point. Apply no more than 2 bar (29psi) of pressure at the fluid resevor. and open the bleed valve until the fuild if fully changed and no air is present. Top off resevor when complete. Torgue Clutch Slave cylinder to transmission at 22Mm (16 ft-lb).

Bleeding tool http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-28...pean-cars.aspx
I know about the bleeder tool but this can be done without a pressure bleeder if you have a second person in the car operating the clutch, which I did.

Would anyone know a good DIY on how to bleed? I already found http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=clutch
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      09-26-2011, 01:23 PM   #5
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Really could use help
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      09-26-2011, 01:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndog14 View Post
I know about the bleeder tool but this can be done without a pressure bleeder if you have a second person in the car operating the clutch, which I did.

Would anyone know a good DIY on how to bleed? I already found http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=clutch
Looks like you got all that you need here. A clutch is much harder to bleed than brakes since the pedal already goes down to the floor. This is why a pressure bleeder helps so much with a clutch.

I bet it's a problem with timing or something similar resulting is a poor bleed. Basically you are getting a poor bleed and need to fix it. It's technique or tools related.

When the clamp left off, did the reservoir go dry? If so your going to have a LOT of air and might need a pressure bleeder.
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      09-26-2011, 01:58 PM   #7
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make sure your fluid is full for the clutch, is the very back of the brake res. fill it to the brim if you have to, then bleed, and take out whatever is still overfilled with a turkey baster, just keep bleeding and DO NOT let the res get low for the clutch, trust me its hard to see the small section and it doesnt hold much at all
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      09-26-2011, 02:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_milo View Post
Looks like you got all that you need here. A clutch is much harder to bleed than brakes since the pedal already goes down to the floor. This is why a pressure bleeder helps so much with a clutch.

I bet it's a problem with timing or something similar resulting is a poor bleed. Basically you are getting a poor bleed and need to fix it. It's technique or tools related.

When the clamp left off, did the reservoir go dry? If so your going to have a LOT of air and might need a pressure bleeder.
Afterwards I found out about the clutch tank right behind the brake one.

I put my thumb over the line to stop losing all of the fluid while my friend helped me reconnect the line.

For bleeding, its technique that is not going well. I have small hands so I can use an open ended wrench to open and close the valve.


I am rebleeding the clutch this upcoming weekend so I am trying to get much information as possible before I do it again.
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      09-26-2011, 02:15 PM   #9
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absolutely positively use the pressure tool. its monday, if you spend $25 you will have it by friday. then you'll have it forever in your garage when you need it, so you can do brake jobs and clutch work like a human being from now on.

i would not be surprised if you could find one at harbor freight, your local auto parts store, the few minutes to locate one will be well worth your time
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      09-28-2011, 05:32 PM   #10
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OP, I did the same procedure today and had the exact same problem you did. After 1st bleed attemp the clutch pedal had ZERO resistant and was "lifeless"

Saw this thread and also learned that the back of the brake fluid reservoir is the clutch (about the last 1" towards the windshield)

Went back and saw that I had let the level get to low.

I attempted to fill to neck and bleed again with Motive pressure bleeder (dry technique) and still had the same problem. The reservoir is so small for the clutch and it does not hold enough.

3rd attempt with pressure bleeder solved the problem, this time I added the brake fluid inside the pressure bleeder tank, this way the clutch reservoir never went low.
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      09-28-2011, 09:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g9sBMW View Post
OP, I did the same procedure today and had the exact same problem you did. After 1st bleed attemp the clutch pedal had ZERO resistant and was "lifeless"

Saw this thread and also learned that the back of the brake fluid reservoir is the clutch (about the last 1" towards the windshield)

Went back and saw that I had let the level get to low.

I attempted to fill to neck and bleed again with Motive pressure bleeder (dry technique) and still had the same problem. The reservoir is so small for the clutch and it does not hold enough.

3rd attempt with pressure bleeder solved the problem, this time I added the brake fluid inside the pressure bleeder tank, this way the clutch reservoir never went low.
I will be doing this mod when I get my car. How do you guys rate it? Any regrets?
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      09-28-2011, 09:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aacaron View Post
I will be doing this mod when I get my car. How do you guys rate it? Any regrets?
CDV and short shifter are the best mods I did..the modified CDV will improve the shifting and extend your clutch life..def do it.
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      09-28-2011, 09:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aacaron View Post
I will be doing this mod when I get my car. How do you guys rate it? Any regrets?
I absolutely love it besides having to pump my clutch every time the car has been sitting awhile. Once I get this solved I am doing a clutch stop and clutch spring removal.

Here are some pics of how hard this was for an xi. The first is the extra drive shaft blocking everything and making the clamp hard to stay on. The second is an anchor for the clutch line which made the line to short to fasten back in without the CDV since I did a complete delete.
Attached Images
  
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      09-29-2011, 07:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aacaron View Post
I will be doing this mod when I get my car. How do you guys rate it? Any regrets?
Had the CDV in my garage for 2 years, wish I would have done it sooner.
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      09-29-2011, 10:19 PM   #15
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Had the CDV in my garage for 2 years, wish I would have done it sooner.
What took so long?
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      09-29-2011, 11:42 PM   #16
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Best mod I've ever done. Even with the Motive bleeder I ended up having to bleed the system twice. I bled it once, all the air bubbles were gone. I started the car but could not get her in gear. I pumped the clutch a few times, bled the system once again and have had zero issues since. I did the mod over a year ago.

FYI, I put the original CDV back in after I knocked the flow restricter out with an allen wrench. Pretty simple. I also have the XI and I agree, it's a bit harder but absolutely worth it. Here's a great write up that I used:

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.htm

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      09-30-2011, 07:53 AM   #17
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I followed the DIY but did not put the original CDV back in without the flow restricter since my car is out of warranty. You only have to have something that looks like the CDV so they do not void your warranty.
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      09-30-2011, 09:05 AM   #18
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doing this monday in combination with brake flush. wondering now if should get a bleeder tool?? was just gonna' use the two peeps method
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      09-30-2011, 10:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
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doing this monday in combination with brake flush. wondering now if should get a bleeder tool?? was just gonna' use the two peeps method
Get a bleeder. Save yourself the trouble I am in.

Your friend should still come over. Never get underneath a lifted car unless it's a car lift.
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      09-30-2011, 11:11 AM   #20
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fortunately, my friend owns a performance shop and has lifts! a huge help
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      09-30-2011, 11:20 AM   #21
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its a travisty that BMW sells a car with these in the first place - must-do mod and I am a first time 6MT owner so its total crap that this thing helps people who are novices with a manual. Once I took it out I realized that the CDV was exactly what was preventing me forom shifting smoothly, not my technique.
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      09-30-2011, 11:21 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakman View Post
Best mod I've ever done. Even with the Motive bleeder I ended up having to bleed the system twice. I bled it once, all the air bubbles were gone. I started the car but could not get her in gear. I pumped the clutch a few times, bled the system once again and have had zero issues since. I did the mod over a year ago.

FYI, I put the original CDV back in after I knocked the flow restricter out with an allen wrench. Pretty simple. I also have the XI and I agree, it's a bit harder but absolutely worth it. Here's a great write up that I used:

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.htm

Derrick
+1
I will be doing it the same way as you. As my car will still be under warranty.
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Last edited by Aacaron; 09-30-2011 at 11:29 AM.. Reason: Grammer
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