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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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******** bov
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11-03-2010, 02:52 PM | #3 |
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just did my install twice....
its pretty straight forward accept the fact that the install from Z shift asks to leave the rear diverter valve in place and line it to the tube on the rear of the bov. make sure that you screw in the horn tight.... I lost mine due to vibration after one day of spirited driving. maxing 18 psi on map 8 holding 17 and taper to 15 on Jb3 with taper set to 42 in globals. Use the stock o ring inside the stock charge pipe, put it in the new pipe. get ready to wrestle with the coupler, Its just long enough with none to spare. Also I greased my BOV first with white litium grease and a straw in both tubes as it felt dry as hell when i flexed the spring. you will need to take out the air box or your intake to get this in, you may want to consider taking out the steering fluid pump bracket to keep from scratching up the pipe like I did. All the scratches are on the bottom fortunately... pm me if you need help..
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JB4 beta 15 ohms FSB,AEM inline filter/ CM 10, ETS fmic, ER custom made charge pipe,TSW Donnington 18's,Simitumo HTRZ3, Injen DCI, AR DPs, Forge DVs, AA SLD, Koni FSD, ZSP springs.
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11-03-2010, 02:54 PM | #4 |
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Install is easy. I am clumsy but the DIY here on e90 give me the confidence to open the hood on my 50K$ car!
Simple, (1) unplug battery (2) break the band on you stock charge elbo... its silver and connects to the upward pipe coming from the innercooler. (3) Remove worm drive hose clamp that holds the elbo to your current charge pipe. (4) use star allen wrench to remove bolt on stock charge pipe (5) unplugg tmap sensor (6) detach boost line from manifold to the y adapter and remove the y ( you can prob change out the whole line with the orange one in the pic. (6.5) detach the Diverter valve return hoses by turning the circular grey clips beind the intake inlets (2 of them) and cap the holes....caps come with new BOV (7) remove metal secure clip from stock charge pipe CAREFULLY, you will need it for the BOV pipe (8) Push stock charge pipe away from the manifold (this may require some elbow grease) (9) Unscrew T map sensor tap assembly and insert in your new charge pipe. Then follow directions that come with the BOV. It should take about 1hour if its your first time.... I take my charge pipe off in 10 min..hardest part is to remember to unplug the battery or you will get a surprise with you go to take out the star allen bolt! That bolt is next to a hot nut on the alternator! Just put the bov on the pipe, hook the line up to the manifold nipple and the back of the BOV...and use the reducer Here is a link to a similar BOV DIY... http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66252 __________________
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JB4 beta 15 ohms FSB,AEM inline filter/ CM 10, ETS fmic, ER custom made charge pipe,TSW Donnington 18's,Simitumo HTRZ3, Injen DCI, AR DPs, Forge DVs, AA SLD, Koni FSD, ZSP springs.
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11-03-2010, 02:58 PM | #5 |
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Install was a pain...
The coupler needs to be a hair longer but other than that it can be difficult to weave the pipe into place. Remand the instructions above. When you remove the DV's leave the rear one in place. Cap the bottom of the rear DV and run a line out the back of the bov to the back of the rear DV. Leave all the piping in place and try the bov this way first. I am holding increadible boost, higher boost on the same map with no taper.... I didn't get it for the noise, I got it to manage boost and to turn on my meth controller. It is doing this very nicely! Cap the front DV inlet hole before installing pipe. Install pipe without BOV on top to make room to wiggle the pipe in place. Be sure to use the rubber o ring on the stock Pipe as JB speed does not send you a seperate one, fits fine! ( i use oil engine leak to condition my orings) just rub a little into the o ring when its out and watch it fatten up and become more able to hold air in place) Lucas engine leak... just rub it right on there...it will not harm rubber. I used washers for my t map sesnor and put a washer under the nut on the top of the bov, shiney silver side up, they all match and make the BOV iteself appear a bit more substantial. Tighen down gently all the allen screws on the BOV. Use BT cable to reset air/ fuel throttle etc addaptions so it can make adjustments based on the new size pipe. drive the car for 5 min at 60-80mph with rpms at 2500-2800, do not use cruise control. Park car and let idle for 5-10 min and then restart. Begin pulls in various gears...I start in 3rd and run to 6400 about 3-5x then 4th to 6000 about 3-5x ( rpms much higer and your doing a buck fourty) 5th as high as space will allow 3-5 x. Car should pull like crazy by now. I like to do 15mph launches from 1st and 2nd gear... about 5 of those and your car is ready for anything. As far as the sound.... My Hyperboost DV's sound the same as this bov, the induction sound has an enhanced sound now throught the metal pipe. Its all I could have hoped for. For louder Blow off, remove the back DV, cap off the rear inlet and leave the rear tube off. Just texted Terrance 28 and he said that's how he is set up.
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JB4 beta 15 ohms FSB,AEM inline filter/ CM 10, ETS fmic, ER custom made charge pipe,TSW Donnington 18's,Simitumo HTRZ3, Injen DCI, AR DPs, Forge DVs, AA SLD, Koni FSD, ZSP springs.
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11-07-2010, 12:59 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Make up your mind. |
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11-07-2010, 01:12 AM | #8 |
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u can leave it or cap it..... dont matter. the nipple is there just to help push the bov open if your top nipple arent pushing stronger enough.
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11-07-2010, 01:57 AM | #9 |
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So why do I need to unplug my battery?
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11-08-2010, 04:05 PM | #10 |
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their is a " hot nut " right by the alternator that if touched with any type of metal object will spark, Could possibly electrocute you to....Never tried that though.
But that hot nut scared the crap out of me when my hose clamp for my DCI touched it lol.
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