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      11-11-2006, 08:33 AM   #1
cal99_99
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Break in required for 328 coupe?

I am getting it in a few weeks, wondering if I need to wait for the break in period like 335?
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      11-11-2006, 08:38 AM   #2
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There's a recommended break-in for each car/engine/powertrain. Just wait is the best advice here. Some guys on the forum are doing 1500 for their 335s, when the break in is only 1200. It could prevent major problems in the future...
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      11-12-2006, 03:47 AM   #3
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you need to break in every car

/thread
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      11-12-2006, 08:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l4wr3nc3
you need to break in every car

/thread
+1
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      11-12-2006, 09:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l4wr3nc3
you need to break in every car

/thread

So is it just don't driving above 5k rpm until 1200 miles? anything else?
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      11-12-2006, 10:55 AM   #6
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Vary RPMs when you drive.

My 328 feels sluggish and heavy right now at 250kms... definitely you need to break the car in.
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      11-12-2006, 11:06 AM   #7
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FWIW (and I've looked into this quite extensively), I'd say:
1. ALWAYS keep revs and engine loads LOW until the engine is thoroughly warmed through;
2. Go easy the first 50-100 miles and..........
3. Then until 1000 miles VARY ENGINE REVS ALL THE TIME AND FREQUENTLY use 60-90% of available revs in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears under lightish loads and........
4. Remember to use engine braking too (stay in manual mode if you have auto/step box) when slowing from such highish-rev excursions as mentioned in 3. above.

I used to run engines in by the book. But over the years I've noticed that:
1. Dealer demos go HARDER and smoother than my own run-in-by-the-book engines (in BMWs and other makes).
2. My last car prior to the 335d was a Z4M roadster which I ran in as per BMW recommendations and which was NO WHERE NEAR as quick as my dealer's demo which had been SPANKED FROM DAY ONE...... Furthermore, and somewhat annoyingly, my car also had rather more of a Double VANOS rattle than did my dealer's demo. My local dealer's 335i demo is as usual a car which has been and is being driven HARD during its first thousand miles. I'm willing to bet that it will be both quicker and smoother whilst at the same time no less reliable and long-lasting than customers' own 'properly' broken-in cars.

Or put another way. I know how I'll run engines in from now on (as, indeed, I am doing right now with my 335d coupe).

Mike
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      11-12-2006, 11:20 AM   #8
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You want to vary your rpm's and keep it below 4500.
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      11-12-2006, 11:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid4000
You want to vary your rpm's and keep it below 4500.
...and over 0.
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      11-12-2006, 08:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335d coupe
FWIW (and I've looked into this quite extensively), I'd say:
1. ALWAYS keep revs and engine loads LOW until the engine is thoroughly warmed through;
2. Go easy the first 50-100 miles and..........
3. Then until 1000 miles VARY ENGINE REVS ALL THE TIME AND FREQUENTLY use 60-90% of available revs in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears under lightish loads and........
4. Remember to use engine braking too (stay in manual mode if you have auto/step box) when slowing from such highish-rev excursions as mentioned in 3. above.

I used to run engines in by the book. But over the years I've noticed that:
1. Dealer demos go HARDER and smoother than my own run-in-by-the-book engines (in BMWs and other makes).
2. My last car prior to the 335d was a Z4M roadster which I ran in as per BMW recommendations and which was NO WHERE NEAR as quick as my dealer's demo which had been SPANKED FROM DAY ONE...... Furthermore, and somewhat annoyingly, my car also had rather more of a Double VANOS rattle than did my dealer's demo. My local dealer's 335i demo is as usual a car which has been and is being driven HARD during its first thousand miles. I'm willing to bet that it will be both quicker and smoother whilst at the same time no less reliable and long-lasting than customers' own 'properly' broken-in cars.

Or put another way. I know how I'll run engines in from now on (as, indeed, I am doing right now with my 335d coupe).

Mike
What do u mean using engine braking? is that the brake pedal?
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      11-12-2006, 08:53 PM   #11
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engine braking is slowing down by shifting to a lower gear (while try hard to avoid over-revving your engine) without using your brake

the topic of break-in has been covered many times before, I suggest you look at those old threads to better inform yourself
Quote:
Originally Posted by cal99_99
What do u mean using engine braking? is that the brake pedal?
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      11-12-2006, 08:55 PM   #12
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I soft-break for the first 500 , then hard-break for the next 500.
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      11-12-2006, 09:31 PM   #13
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Best to break-in for 15,000 miles, keeping speeds below 25 MPH and revs below 1,000 RPM until then.
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      11-12-2006, 09:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canucklion
engine braking is slowing down by shifting to a lower gear (while try hard to avoid over-revving your engine) without using your brake

the topic of break-in has been covered many times before, I suggest you look at those old threads to better inform yourself

But did u suggest using the manual instead of auto mode? would it be the same if I keep the rev under 5k?
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      11-13-2006, 02:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal99_99
But did u suggest using the manual instead of auto mode? would it be the same if I keep the rev under 5k?
it dosent matter if you drive it in D DS or M. I assume driving in D or M would be easier to keep the revs down because DS lets you rev a bit higher. D usually shifts earlier and M you can shift whenever you want to. But since you do have a auto, if you want to engine break you have to be in Manual mode and just downshift yourself. Just make sure when you downshift, you dont go past 4500 rpm (or 5k)
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      11-13-2006, 07:09 PM   #16
cal99_99
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So what are the advantages of breaking in? My family has 4 cars before and never concern about breaking in. And the cars still running at 100k.
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      11-13-2006, 10:13 PM   #17
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Break-in? What break-in? ...whoops, oh well. My car has seen a variety of engine speeds, downshifts, and redline a few times in just the first 3 days (I've got over 100 mi. on it so far)! My bro, who's had extensive experience with both N/A and Twin Turbo'd cars in the past 30 years drove my car today and redlined it a couple times (after it was all warmed up of course ). He said the car has already been broken-in and not to worry about it; besides, it's under warranty and on a 2 1/2 yr. lease anyhow.

btw - my CA did mention break-in, but only for the first 500 mi. (not 1200 mi.) and to keep it under 100mph and vary the engine rpms during that time; nothing else, other than to be safe and have fun!
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      11-14-2006, 08:12 AM   #18
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If I were you I'd hot lap it right out of the box until it overheats and blows up.
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      11-14-2006, 08:30 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSilver
If I were you I'd hot lap it right out of the box until it overheats and blows up.
Yeah, I figure well, it's under warranty and I've always just driven cars the way I want to from the moment I get them, and I haven't had any engine related issues with any of my many cars. Plus, my CA didn't exactly stress the importance of a "soft" break-in. Then, my bro got in the car and just nailed it...I was like "whoa there haus." If I had bought the car with the intention of keeping it for 5+ years, I probably would have done an "easier" break-in. Personally, I think the engines are broken in already, but the car mfgr's ask you to be easy on it for the first 500-1000 mi. or so, just as a "precaution."
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      11-14-2006, 08:45 AM   #20
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Pretty much anything mechanical needs to be broken in, but especially anything that runs due to a series of controlled explosions.

I even had to break in the engine on my nitro powered remove controlled car, and that was all about varying the revs.
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