[boom]

So I had ordered a SM can a couple of days before the review posted here:http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=saikou+michi

Based on the thread, I changed my order from a standard stage 1 OCC to the n54 specific can. I installed it when it arrived but was not thrilled with the hose diameter and fitment issues caused by the size of the can and the sharp bends needed to make the hose work.

I emailed my frustration to Saikou Michi and they were more than accommodating. They wanted to help and had developed that can based on the instructions that the OP in that thread gave them. It turns out the guy that wrote the review sold his setup a couple of days later and I believe is selling his car.

I emailed them a few suggestions on what I would do differently and they offered to send me a replacement based on that spec. It only took a week or so but with the holidays, travel, and me relocating I just got it installed today. I'm thrilled with the result.

I suggested moving to 1/2" hose as it would survive the bends without crimping. I also suggested that the stage 1 OCC diameter was more appropriate given the tight space. It fits perfectly.

Here are few pix of the install.

The can: Stage 1 OCC with 1/2" barbs and a 45 deg offset


I bought the riss racing hose kit originally and used the intake line setup. IIRC its a 1" to 1/2" reducer using 1" hose to connect the 1/2" line to the stock intake port.


The PCV valve is connected to the 1/2" hose using a very small piece of 3/4" hose to a 1/2" barb elbow with 1/2" pipe thread. The shorter the 3/4" hose the better to avoid hitting the firewall with the elbow or bending the 1/2" hose.




Here are some pix showing the lines assembled and the tightness of the space.





The finished product:





The can fits nicely in the space, doesn't rub, and is easily removed with the 10mm nut on the fender well. The hose bends are nice and smooth with no crimps. I'm very happy with the new setup and have nothing but praise for Saikou Michi. Their cans are top notch and not too expensive. Their customer service is second to none.

[boom]

http://www.saikoumichi.com/OCC_explanation.htmhttp://www.saikoumichi.com/REV_C_SECTION_publish.jpg

[roadkillrob]

Very nice and looks pretty much factory!

[hun77777]

how much did it cost you? link to order?
also what exactly is the name of that 90 degree piece? brand name? where at? home depot?

[boom]

The replacement can was free. The original was around $120 or so. I think the one I requested would come in around $90 as it's a stage 1. The elbow piece was purchased at a local hardware store. It's actually a 1/2" hose barb elbow to 1/2" threaded pipe. The hose clamps on the threads. It works. it's not perfect but it works without issues.

My advice is to get a piece of 1" hose and and a piece of 3/4" hose and find reducers to go from those to 1/2". The 3/4" to 1/2" should be an elbow while the 1" to 1/2" is straight. Sit in the store and test fit the hose and fittings until it's right. It won't take 5 minutes.

EDIT: the stage 1 OCC is $75 + shipping.

[Clap135]

1/2 inch hose? Thats horrible. I have the standard can with stock pvc hose sizes on both ends (no elbows or anything) and never had any crimpling or fitment issues. I think you just bought crap hose personally. This is a smaller 135i btw.

[vasillalov]

I don't like the placement in the engine bay. Its too close to the exhaust system and therefore heat. If I was to place the catch can, it would be in a cooler place so that the hot oil vapor will have a better chance of condensation on the cooler walls of the oil catch can. I think this is essential to making sure that the oil fumes are actually trapped.

Also, think what will happen to the oil that gets captured in the catch can after long exposure to heat. It will cake up and it will form sludge. This will quickly clog the little filter element and cause the fumes to bypass the filtration thus rendering the catch can useless.

Just my $0.02

[boom]

Originally Posted by Clap135

1/2 inch hose? Thats horrible. I have the standard can with stock pvc hose sizes on both ends (no elbows or anything) and never had any crimpling or fitment issues. I think you just bought crap hose personally. This is a smaller 135i btw.

pix? What hose did you buy? I boughtstandard automotive heater hose.

[boom]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

I don't like the placement in the engine bay. Its too close to the exhaust system and therefore heat. If I was to place the catch can, it would be in a cooler place so that the hot oil vapor will have a better chance of condensation on the cooler walls of the oil catch can. I think this is essential to making sure that the oil fumes are actually trapped.

Also, think what will happen to the oil that gets captured in the catch can after long exposure to heat. It will cake up and it will form sludge. This will quickly clog the little filter element and cause the fumes to bypass the filtration thus rendering the catch can useless.

Just my $0.02

the propose a new solution. AFAIK all catch cans for the n54 application are mounted there or very close. No one has reported sludge or coked oil residue. You obviously haven't paid attention to the numerous catch can threads.

[FLA 335]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

I don't like the placement in the engine bay. Its too close to the exhaust system and therefore heat. If I was to place the catch can, it would be in a cooler place so that the hot oil vapor will have a better chance of condensation on the cooler walls of the oil catch can. I think this is essential to making sure that the oil fumes are actually trapped.

Also, think what will happen to the oil that gets captured in the catch can after long exposure to heat. It will cake up and it will form sludge. This will quickly clog the little filter element and cause the fumes to bypass the filtration thus rendering the catch can useless.

Just my $0.02

i would agree with this preliminarily... i dont know the compound used to create the catch can, however i dare anyone to stick there hand down the exhust side after an hour of driving and tell me it is nice and cool... NOT SO MUCH... i personally feel more comforatable with the placement of the AR catchcan (IMO)... im sure there will be experts who will chime in...

[hun77777]

Originally Posted by FLA 335

i would agree with this preliminarily... i dont know the compound used to create the catch can, however i dare anyone to stick there hand down the exhust side after an hour of driving and tell me it is nice and cool... NOT SO MUCH... i personally feel more comforatable with the placement of the AR catchcan (IMO)... im sure there will be experts who will chime in...

well in theory that's the way to go except that's not possible option for me since i have so many things there(forge DV, intake, steering fluid thingy) and literally have no room there.... i just checked my RR OCC after 15k of driving and it works flowlessly. so i'm gonna just change the OCC itself later on...

Originally Posted by boom

The replacement can was free. The original was around $120 or so. I think the one I requested would come in around $90 as it's a stage 1. The elbow piece was purchased at a local hardware store. It's actually a 1/2" hose barb elbow to 1/2" threaded pipe. The hose clamps on the threads. It works. it's not perfect but it works without issues.

My advice is to get a piece of 1" hose and and a piece of 3/4" hose and find reducers to go from those to 1/2". The 3/4" to 1/2" should be an elbow while the 1" to 1/2" is straight. Sit in the store and test fit the hose and fittings until it's right. It won't take 5 minutes.

EDIT: the stage 1 OCC is $75 + shipping.

how many stages there? what's the difference?

edit: nvm. i did the search and found the website. but besides the size of nipple and size of the can is there any difference in filteration? it looks same...

p.s. one more q. i have RR OCC with N54kit is the size on those hose different from N54kit that i have? hose works flawlessly without leaking so i don't want to change it. i'm looking to just replace OCC itself...

[boom]

Originally Posted by hun77777

well in theory that's the way to go except that's not possible option for me since i have so many things there(forge DV, intake, steering fluid thingy) and literally have no room there.... i just checked my RR OCC after 15k of driving and it works flowlessly. so i'm gonna just change the OCC itself later on...



how many stages there? what's the difference?

edit: nvm. i did the search and found the website. but besides the size of nipple and size of the can is there any difference in filteration? it looks same...

p.s. one more q. i have RR OCC with N54kit is the size on those hose different from N54kit that i have? hose works flawlessly without leaking so i don't want to change it. i'm looking to just replace OCC itself...

You can specify the nipple size on the SM can. I believe the RR can uses 3/8" nipples and hosing but I'm not sure. Find out what size your can's hose barbs are and order a SM can with the same size and you'll be fine.

[Clap135]

You just routed it wrong. The hose coming out of the drivers side part of the engine goes out the passenger side of the engine and up to the can. (which you did) The hose from the passenger side of the engine goes towards the driverside, ontop of the other hose (theres a perfect slot in the engine cover for this. And up btwn the engine cover and cowl to the catch can. Simple really. I used good year radiator hose.

[boom]

Maybe. I didn't see any other way to route the hose without crimping it.
I don't see how you can orient it any differently. The fuel line prevents rotation of the pcv. It basically has to point toward the driver's side.