[vanillarice19]

My car has the latest BMW software and I have a Procede REVII and catless DP's. Installed it and have tried all kinds of O2 settings, firmware and maps from 7/29 to 10/9 to 11/2 and have thrown various codes depending on what O2 setting I have it set at. I don't get any cat inefficiency codes and most of the codes occur as soon as I give the car any gas. I don't get a cell but my code reader detects it. I can drive for 40 minutes and not throw an "Service Engine Soon light" with these codes thrown in the background, but as soon as shut down and restart the car, the SES light comes on every time after 2-3 minutes (regardless if I drive it hard or not).

The car has 1K miles and is brand new. I didn't install the DP's but I told the guy to be careful and not swap the O2 sensors. I don't think he swapped the front ones since the black one is before the Grey wire (B before G) however could he have accidentally swapped the rear sensors? Will this cause me to throw all these various codes below?

P2098 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2
P2272 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean - Bank 2, Sensor 2
P2273 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich - Bank 2, Sensor 2
P0158 - O2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
P0138 - O2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0041 - Oxygen Sensor Signals Swapped Bank 1 Sensor 2 / Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0171 - Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 1)

Sensor 2 means the rear O2 sensor right???
Question is can the rear O2 sensor be accidentally swapped are the sizes different so it's not possible?

Also, is it possible to remove the engine cover and just swapping the O2 terminal plugs or do I have to get underneath the car and SWAP them?

Thanks

[OpenFlash]

The installer swapped o2 sensors somewhere in the system. Despite you caveat

shiv

[bmwzimmer]

Looks like it. It could be worse like a bad o2 sensor

[AlpineG05]

Originally Posted by bmwzimmer

Looks like it. It could be worse like a bad o2 sensor

[vanillarice19]

DAMN,

Just went to my friend's house (the installer) and we double checked the O2 sensors.

The one with the Grey sleeve goes to the dp that is connected to the rear turbo/smaller downpipe. The black sleeve is for the longer downpipe/one that mounts to the front turbo. So the Black front O2 sensor and rear Black O2 sensor matches colors. The rear turbo (grey) matches the rear O2 sensor (grey) sleeve. Attached is a sketch of the orientation.... Is it CORRECT???

Any other ideas why I get these issues? Prior to installing the DP's, Procede REV II would only work with the 10/9 maps. The 11/2 maps would occilate boost like crazy.

HOWEVER, Even with the 10/9 maps and tq set to 70% and left Ignition advance to 100%, the Ign adv curves look fine (no dropoffs) however I would record Knock consistently....
A 1-4 gear run would knock (CAN knock) 2-3 times. I figured the car was just adapting. Boost never went above 13.5 psi at this setting.....

Could it be a bad fuel pump or something else? Car is brand new and we were really careful with the sensors....

[bmwzimmer]

Try turning off your Lagfix and see if it helps. As for the orientation of the sensors, perhaps someone can chime in...

[chiefsotos]

You o2 connections seems ok.

Black= long pipe(front turbo)
Grey = short pipe(back turbo)

[R1000K3]

The O2-sensor harness will take a lot of abuse if it is not released at clamps and twistened over a long distance. In case several turns are close to the O2-sensor the wires can break near the sensor under the sleeve.

[ar design]

Originally Posted by chiefsotos

You o2 connections seems ok.

Black= long pipe(front turbo)
Grey = short pipe(back turbo)

[vanillarice19]

Then the O2 sim feature on the REVII may not be working well right now for folks with the very latest ECU flash. I just picked up the car after thanksgiving so the software must be really new.....

Did some more tests this morning. The car would immediately throw

"P2098 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2"
after 1 minute of driving. Then 2 minutes later, it would throw
"P2272 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean - Bank 2, Sensor 2"

These are the two main ones I would throw with the current 10/9 maps. It happens right away and the engine doesn't even get a chance to warm up....

Funny thing is after resetting, I drove it really hard right afterwards and threw no cells after 10 minutes of hard driving....

WIERD!!!!!!!!

[mkato13]

Gotta love computer controlled cars. They have so much more possibilities but when they go wrong I miss the days of vaccum lines and carburators.

[R1000K3]

Originally Posted by vanillarice19

Then the O2 sim feature on the REVII may not be working well right now for folks with the very latest ECU flash.

Send the Procede to me, just put a $100 bill in the packet and I'll take care of an environmentally safe disposal of it It will be far cheaper than recycling the complete vehicle (acids etc.).

[OpenFlash]

Please understand that it is most likely that something is wrong with one of your sensors.

My suggestion:

1) remove the procede and drive your car.
2) Confirm that you don't get any codes other than the catalyst conversion 1&2 codes.
3) If you get other codes (such as o2/lean codes), then you need to find out what went wrong with the install and fix it/replace the suspect part (most likely an o2 sensor).

Btw, I recommend running the current 11-2 maps which revised the o2 sim feature to work on even the most current software versions. But do the above suggestions first please or you will be chasing your tail. Seriously, problems like this are relatively easy to figure out. Especially when the occur right after installing something like downpipes. Just go step by step and narrow your search down.

Shiv

[ianthegreat]

Originally Posted by mkato13

Gotta love computer controlled cars. They have so much more possibilities but when they go wrong I miss the days of vaccum lines and carburators.

I sure don't. I'm working on an old carb'd pickup and if I see another vac line I will shoot myself.

[vanillarice19]

UPDATE:

So I removed the Procede and the only Code I get is the P2098 code (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2)
It looks like all the other codes were triggered from various REVII O2 % adjustments when I was trying to fix the problem....

After clearing the code, P2098 comes back on EVERYTIME without fail after approx 1 mile of driving.

So.... does bank 2 mean cyclinder 4,5,6 which is the Grey sleeved wires? Also, are most lean/rich codes like my P2098 related to the pre cat sensors and most catalytic inefficiency codes are related to post cat sensors? Please help me figure out which sensor to buy since it ALOT of work and $$ to get under the car to replace....

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by vanillarice19

UPDATE:

So I removed the Procede and the only Code I get is the P2098 code (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2)
It looks like all the other codes were triggered from various REVII O2 % adjustments when I was trying to fix the problem....

After clearing the code, P2098 comes back on EVERYTIME without fail after approx 1 mile of driving.

So.... does bank 2 mean cyclinder 4,5,6 which is the Grey sleeved wires? Also, are most lean/rich codes like my P2098 related to the pre cat sensors and most catalytic inefficiency codes are related to post cat sensors? Please help me figure out which sensor to buy since it ALOT of work and $$ to get under the car to replace....

Looking at what your posted "Post Cat fuel trim" I would say the rear turbo one which is the short DP....

I would say that when installing the sensors back on, you have to twist it backwards in the the direction it screws in before actually screwing the sensor back in to eliminate as much twisting of the wire onces its screwed back into the dp...If you don't do that the DP sensor wire is all twisted up and sometimes maybe in your case you twisted it to the point that it severed the wire and thus causing your problem..

[vanillarice19]

Where are the rear plug connectors located? Do I have to completely remove the cover to access the connectors?

To access the front connectors, I partially removed the engine cover and it's right there on the right side of the oil cap. I tapped into the wires to measure the voltage and both front sensors are displaying .35V when i stick in the key, and displaying .85-.9V when the engine is running. Another wire was measuring around 6.5V. All the other wires are just measuring 12-13V which is the heating element to heat up the O2 sensors.

If I can access the rears, I can probably check if the voltages are the same for both wires or not

[vanillarice19]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Looking at what your posted "Post Cat fuel trim" I would say the rear turbo one which is the short DP....

I would say that when installing the sensors back on, you have to twist it backwards in the the direction it screws in before actually screwing the sensor back in to eliminate as much twisting of the wire onces its screwed back into the dp...If you don't do that the DP sensor wire is all twisted up and sometimes maybe in your case you twisted it to the point that it severed the wire and thus causing your problem..

Good point about overly twisting the wires. If this is the case, I can run a quick continuity test and just repair the wires myself rather than buy a whole new o2 sensor....

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by vanillarice19

Good point about overly twisting the wires. If this is the case, I can run a quick continuity test and just repair the wires myself rather than buy a whole new o2 sensor....

yes I am sure you can, but if it lost connectivity right at the sensor you would probably need to soder it back into place...If you do get new ones makes sure you twist the wire loom the opposite direction a couple of revolutions to counteract it twisting the other way when you tighten them into the dp....This will make it have the least amount of tension and twist onced installed....Those sensors are pretty expensive! Good luck in fixing your problem

[scalbert]

The rear sensors are at the base of the downpipes, where they connect to the midpipes. The electrical connectors are just a few inches over towards the drivers side. They are round connectors and can be accessed without removing panels; you may need to pop out some screws though in order to pull down on the panel.

Check the physical connection though. Mine came loose after the installation and thought I had screwed up one of the sensors. Turns out the connector was not fully seated.

[bmwzimmer]

Originally Posted by scalbert

The rear sensors are at the base of the downpipes, where they connect to the midpipes. The electrical connectors are just a few inches over towards the drivers side. They are round connectors and can be accessed without removing panels; you may need to pop out some screws though in order to pull down on the panel.

Check the physical connection though. Mine came loose after the installation and thought I had screwed up one of the sensors. Turns out the connector was not fully seated.

This is a good point. Hopefully something this simple is the reason

[J x K]

Please update when possible.

My car is throwing similar codes, however no software.

P2096 and P0041

I have catless downpipes as well. Car is 05/09 build and has 32.xx software.

I was planning on buying the rev 2 canbus so I could get rid of the codes, however it seems you are having issues?