[STICKY335]

So cause of the dang socal weather im leaning towards getting tints... now i was just wondering what you guys would recommend to get as of the brand , tint level , etc... would really appreciate your feedback.

[iheartsole]

i think its called forumla 1 pinnacle. i would recommend 35% all around

[CaptainKibbles]

get the formula 1 pinnacle . I did 35% on the front 2 and then 20% on the back.

[ianthegreat]

F1 Pinnacle is nice in Texas. GL getting it to lay correctly around the bubble edges of the factory tint though.

[jmalan60]

F1 Pinnacle also. Be careful and make sure to ask about how they'll tackle the black dots around the edges. Mine didn't turn out very well but the tint works great.

[Mech_Man]

I tinted my 2008 e92 (new BMW 335i 2-door) right after I got it (summer of 2008).
I did it not for looks so much as self-defense against the sun. I live in the deep, hot, sunny south and with my black interior I felt it was absolutely necessary to block out the heat.
I tinted ALL my windows, including my front, for heat blockage and not so much for cosmetics or privacy (though now they are nice too).

Here is a summary of what I found when I researched tinting my new
Feel free to pass this on, and give my email to anyone who has questions.
I'm VERY happy with how mine came out, and it really helps with the hot sun.



=======================================
Window Tinting - what I learned tinting.
=======================================

Some general resources, (both sites have places that list the tinting laws for the different states).
http://www.tintdude.com (best, non-commercial site I found for info).
-- I got some good installer tips and references Pro and Con from the forum here.

http://www.tintcenter.com (but they don't go into ceramics, so I suspect they are funded by the suppliers of the other types of films)



SUMMARY:
There are three basic types of plastic film applied to car glass for tinting and heat protection.
The all provide full protection against UV light (just like sun block), that would otherwise fade fabric, accelerate the aging of plastic, and give sunburns if you in the car long enough).

1) Dyed: Least expensive
-- PROS: Lest tricky to install. Best choice if what you want is cosmetic change only.
-- CONS: color will fade or change after a few years. Smallest amount of heat reflection.

2) Metallic: Moderately expensive,
-- PROS: some protection against IR (Infra Red - the "heat" part of light). Lifetime warrantee if installed by registered dealer
-- CONS: Metal bits might hinder reception of portable GPS, cell phones, and your AM radio (if antenna is INSIDE car as mine is).

3) Ceramic: (aka nano-ceramic), Most Expensive (mine was $180 front and $220 sides and rear)
-- PROS: full IR protection, no problem with radios etc. Lifetime warrantee if installed by registered dealer
-- CONS: Most difficult to install properly.


My car: What I was looking for, since I have a dark blue outside and a black leather interior, was to get the best heat reflection or rejection I could get. I was not really that interested in changing the appearance, though some tinting also provides some privacy, (can't see inside very well, so maybe it helps a bit against smash & grabs for my GPS or Radar Detector).

Front Windshield (minimize tint, maximize heat reflection)
-- 3M Crystalline Automotive Window Films 70%
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ineWindowFilm/

-- Technically, some say that this might not be legal as the NC laws:
http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_ser...n/tinting.html
-- which says that full windshield 'tinting' isn't allowed. But firstly, what I used is labeled for heat rejection not for tinting, so that's a good loophole.
-- Also, the shop I used not only tints windows for the local BMW dealership, (a really good reference in itself for the installer), but they had just finished installing the very tint I had chosen on 20 or so of the city police cars!

All Other Glass:
-- I had to go to a different film, as the 3M I put on the front was too expensive for using for the sides and rear, The Johnson film didn't come in the very light tint that was needed for the front glass, but worked well for the rest.

-- Johnson Ceramic film, 40% Transmittance (the state legal minimum is 35% and my windows have a bit of factory tint).
http://www.johnsonwindowfilms.com/IR.php


I found the two above film manufacturers to be quite acceptable, but there are other film types that get good reviews. I'd first choose the TYPE of film, then find an installer who has done a lot of "that film" on "your" type of car. Only then would I start thinking of how much to tint.

Here are some other film manufactures. Pull them up and look for a local dealer:

FormulaOne
http://www.formulaone.com/
-- This is probably the film I found with the most number of positive recommendations, but the closest installer was several hours away from me.

Madico Advanced Ceramic
http://www.madico.com/WindowFilms/MAC_Automotive.asp

Huper Optik
http://www.huperoptikusa.com/consumer_auto.cfm
-- This is a high quality film, but I understand it is thicker than most and therefore more sensitive to installation. Make sure you find someone who has done a lot of cars just like yours. (My BMW 3-series car is notorious for having rear windows that are difficult to install tint, due to the curvature and the factory shading of a "dot-matrix" pattern).


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++
NON-TINTING protection. (Paint Protective Film), aka Clear-Bra.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++
I also was concerned about my BMW paint. It looks incredible, but is also notorious about being a 'soft paint', easily chipped and micro-dinged by rocks and such thrown up from the road over time. I found out that there is an alternate to using a leather "bra".

-- The installer who did my sides and rear window tinting with the 3M tint film also were certified for installing a flexible, clear plastic film. It feels on the car like about 1 layer of saran wrap. Slightly resilient, so it can shrug off the little dings. The installer cuts out the film by their computer to very exacting patterns to match your car, and adhere them to the front edges of your car. I covered my entire front bumper (with custom fit for the several openings such as the fog lights), the first 24 inches of my hood, and the front portion of my rear-view mirrors (very complex 'tear-drop' aerodynamic shape). You really have to know where to look to see the edge, and even then it's hard unless the sun is in the right angle.

What I used: 3M Paint Protection Film (ClearBra)
-- Since this was extremely installation intensive, it cost more than all the tinting. I paid $600 for it, and it also does NOT have a life time warrantee. It's rated for 5 years. Then I'll pull it off and put on another. But the paint under will be like new. Some people pay more and get their entire hood done.
-- My installer had a special where if I did a package as described above, they also added a 1/2" strip along my door edges. They are also nearly invisible, but will protect my edges from slam-dinging.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...rotectionFilm/
-- click on the link "Click here for more information on Paint Protection Film (.pdf, 226kb)" and read it's description and warrantee.