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      05-14-2009, 08:42 PM   #1
FASTTOYS
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NEED TO LOWER 07 M coupe NEED HELP ON WHAT TO BUY?

I just had wheels made for my car, they arrived today. Looking to lower my M coupe. I heard goods and bad by just changing the springs, I dont want the wheels to rub should I go coil overs? What is the best suspension for the M coupe? At this moment I am not tracking the car, its could change.
I was out with the Ferrarii Club on Saturday and was not happy with the body roll in the corners. The car handles great but could use some improvements. I guess driving the F430 first did not help make my coupe feel better.

My new wheels 19x8.5 245 35 nitto invo 19x10 275 30 nitto invo instaling them Friday

Thanks

Last edited by FASTTOYS; 05-15-2009 at 04:20 AM..
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      05-15-2009, 10:52 AM   #2
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For Track- TC Kline DA -OR- KW Clubsport

For Street with occasional track - KWV3
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      05-15-2009, 06:57 PM   #3
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I'd look into getting Vorshlag Camber plates as well if I were U...

I'm looking at the AST Coilovers. Been hearing good things about them from the M3 crowd....
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      05-16-2009, 01:35 AM   #4
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Thanks I will look into this ASAP

I spent half the day having my new wheels and tires installed. I was scared about the rear off-set being a 26 on a 19 x 10 275 30 19 Nitto Invo. After install it looked like it was going to stick out from fendor but after a 30 minute drive all good very close to the edge After installing the wheels the car get a lot of looks cant wait to have it lowered and add big brakes
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      05-18-2009, 02:29 PM   #5
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what?? no pics??
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      05-19-2009, 10:26 AM   #6
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There is nothing wrong with the tckline DA system on the street, just because it's better then kw on the track doesn't mean it sacrifices on the street.
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      05-19-2009, 11:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
just because it's better then kw on the track doesn't mean it sacrifices on the street.
What's your experience with KW? I've driven both the TC Kline and KW Competition on my car and without question the KW is miles ahead of the TC Kline suspension. On the street the TC Kline is better suited.
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      05-20-2009, 12:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krnnerdboy View Post
what?? no pics??
I have many pictures of the new wheels dont know how to post here are some
http://www.forgestar.com/blog/

Last edited by FASTTOYS; 05-20-2009 at 04:06 PM..
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      06-06-2009, 11:06 AM   #9
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^That is stock height? Doesn't look too bad IMO.
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      06-07-2009, 11:02 PM   #10
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I had the KW V3s on my car. I thought they were great for street driving. Body is less than stock but the suspension is still on the soft side for track use. They don't have camber plates.

I just put TCkline S/A coilovers on the car. I think the ride is about perfect for both street and track with 400-450 front and 500-550 rear. They have the TCkline camber plates. The coilovers handle wonderfully. I think if you are only occasionally tracking the car they you may not need the D/As. The compression dampening is pretty nicely on the S/As. I think the S/A are a better track coilover than the KW V3s.

The KWs Clubsports are probably better than the TCkline coilovers (D/A or S/A)

I have to say I don't like the TCkline camber plates. I can tell they just were not designed for the Z4M. It doesn't fit well. I can see it deform the strut tower as I tighten them down. The ring that goes around the top of the strut tower hits the strut brace tap. The other issue is they are not marked. You have to guess how much you moved the camber them if you decide to change camber at the track and change it back for street driving.

I made extensions for the adjuster on the top of the shocks on the rear so I can change rebound without removing all the trunk trim. If you keep all the trunk trim in the car then you lose the ability to adjust rear rebound.

The other option is ground control.
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      06-11-2009, 10:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silversprint View Post
I made extensions for the adjuster on the top of the shocks on the rear so I can change rebound without removing all the trunk trim. If you keep all the trunk trim in the car then you lose the ability to adjust rear rebound.
Can you send me a photo of this DIY adjuster. I am installing TC Kline D/As as I type this...
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      06-12-2009, 12:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4MCJJ View Post
Can you send me a photo of this DIY adjuster. I am installing TC Kline D/As as I type this...

I can't really do that since the coilovers are in the car and the covers are back on. The driver side is pretty easy since the top of the strut is close to the interior covers, all you have to do is cut a hole in the interior cover and the padding covering the tower. The passenger side is harder. The top of that struts is about 3-4 inches under the interior cover and hard to get an adjuster on without a guide tube.

I actually spot welded a 1/2" steel hollow tube on the top of the passenger side strut as a guide for the adjuster rod. You don't have to do that. You have to very careful not to get the shock mount hot and melt the rubber

Then I took a 3/8" steel solid rod that fit inside this tube that way it goes directly to the shock adjuster screw. I grinded a slot on one end of the rod so it fits onto the shock adjuster. The rod is about 12inches long. It has a rubber handle on the other end so I can turn it. I didn't want it to hit the interior while I was turning it so I made it long. The handle is actually from a tool I cut the end off and welded to the rod, same diameter so it was easy to do.

I will make plugs for the holes I had to cut. These will have black carpet on top so they can blend into the stock interior.

Sorry for blurry pictures. It's dark here. 11PM.






You can see the guide tube. The hole in the carpet is a little big since I started it cutting to far up above the tube.


Rod inserted into guide tube for adjustment.


I didn't use a guide tube for the driver side.

Last edited by silversprint; 06-12-2009 at 01:08 AM..
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      06-12-2009, 09:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silversprint View Post
I can't really do that since the coilovers are in the car and the covers are back on. The driver side is pretty easy since the top of the strut is close to the interior covers, all you have to do is cut a hole in the interior cover and the padding covering the tower. The passenger side is harder. The top of that struts is about 3-4 inches under the interior cover and hard to get an adjuster on without a guide tube.

I actually spot welded a 1/2" steel hollow tube on the top of the passenger side strut as a guide for the adjuster rod. You don't have to do that. You have to very careful not to get the shock mount hot and melt the rubber

Then I took a 3/8" steel solid rod that fit inside this tube that way it goes directly to the shock adjuster screw. I grinded a slot on one end of the rod so it fits onto the shock adjuster. The rod is about 12inches long. It has a rubber handle on the other end so I can turn it. I didn't want it to hit the interior while I was turning it so I made it long. The handle is actually from a tool I cut the end off and welded to the rod, same diameter so it was easy to do.

I will make plugs for the holes I had to cut. These will have black carpet on top so they can blend into the stock interior.

Sorry for blurry pictures. It's dark here. 11PM.






You can see the guide tube. The hole in the carpet is a little big since I started it cutting to far up above the tube.


Rod inserted into guide tube for adjustment.


I didn't use a guide tube for the driver side.

WOW THAT IS HOW IT WORKS Thanks
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      06-12-2009, 09:58 PM   #14
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Silversprint...thanks buddy....

I should be able to do something like this...
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