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      04-07-2009, 03:22 AM   #1
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Magnetic numbers for track days/autocross?

Does anyone know if magnetic track numbers will work on the sides of a 135i? I'm not sure what the doors (or rear side panels) are actually made of. Has anyone had any experience with this?
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      04-07-2009, 04:20 AM   #2
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If you have 'permanent numbers', go to a sign shop and have them made. You can have the numbers made the way you want them. Also you should have them made on a flat sheet which could be chosen to match the color of your car or contrast with it. Don't get just the number there is too much frontal area compared to the gripping area and the numbers won't stay on your car at any kind of speed. On the track for added security tape the leading edge of the number panel with a small amount of racers tape. So it's a good idea to get your number panel in the same color as a big roll of racer's tape.
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      04-07-2009, 09:54 AM   #3
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Ah, good tip on the tape. By "permanent numbers" though, do you mean that the numbers themselves never change? Or did you mean permanent as in "they aren't removable"?

I'm trying to figure out if magnetic numbers will even "stick" to the doors of a 135. I'm thinking of just ordering a magnetic oval from here.
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      04-07-2009, 10:10 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremydgreat View Post
Does anyone know if magnetic track numbers will work on the sides of a 135i? I'm not sure what the doors (or rear side panels) are actually made of. Has anyone had any experience with this?
Magnets will stick to all of the exterior body panels.
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      04-07-2009, 11:11 AM   #5
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I meant permanent as you are assigned a number for the season e.g. 46 - If you show up for an out-of-region event where someone has stolen your number, you may change it with painters tape - leading 1 or trailing 1 as in 146 or 461
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      04-07-2009, 08:27 PM   #6
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Great advice everyone.

Any suggestions on size? I think I'm just going to order some magnetic numbers from here. What size should I get? Also, I notice that I can order a few letters for "class" denotations. The suggested letters are "CSP". (see here) Any suggestions there?

(I'm trying to order these before the car actually gets here, and then attend a track day not long after. )
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      04-07-2009, 09:52 PM   #7
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^ $110-169 seems VERY steep for simple magnetic numbers. Especially if it's just a set of standalone 0-9 + class letters (most of wihch you won't use). For that price you should be able to find something much nicer.

If you want simple stand-alone numbers like that you're much better off buying some of the material and cutting them out yourself. It's a hell of a lot cheaper and you have full control over the result. You'll also have some extra material if you ever loose a number or change your class. All you need are a pair of 2 (at most 3) numbers and class letters. I personally just have a 1, 5, 6 and DS for each side which provides more than enough possible combinations. As a bonus, mine were free since a coworker had extra magnetic material laying around.

If you want something fancier, someone else may be able to point you to a better source.
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      04-08-2009, 12:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremydgreat View Post
Great advice everyone.

Any suggestions on size? I think I'm just going to order some magnetic numbers from here. What size should I get? Also, I notice that I can order a few letters for "class" denotations. The suggested letters are "CSP". (see here) Any suggestions there?

(I'm trying to order these before the car actually gets here, and then attend a track day not long after. )
I use the 12" x 18" car door magnet from vistaprint.com. Works great on the track (even driving there & back); simple; very strong/never falls off. Here's a link for saving 50% off...

http://www.vistaprint.com/vp/busines...agnet&ad=broad

IIRC, a set of 2 costs approx. $30 shipped! White background is best for ease of visibility and photos.
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      04-08-2009, 01:22 AM   #9
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ooh that's not a bad idea. Is the magnet thin enough to cut the numbers out?
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      04-08-2009, 09:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremydgreat View Post
ooh that's not a bad idea. Is the magnet thin enough to cut the numbers out?
Don't do this, the magnets cut to the shape of the number do not provide enough surface area compared to the frontal area. The sides of tracks are littered with these numbers. Any speed over 60 and the numbers are at risk. A rectangle background magnetic panel provides the least frontal area compared to the surface area. Numbers and circles do look fairly interesting whirling through the air.

To make number plates yourself get the larger door magnet which provides less frontal area then almost any number. Use the door magnet and vinyl coat it or paint it and attach vinyl numbers to it. If you have a white car or you have a different color car, attach the vinyl numbers directly to the magnetic panel without painting it to match your car before hand. You can even lay one color vinyl number over another to achieve a shadowed look.
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      04-08-2009, 01:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremydgreat View Post
(I'm trying to order these before the car actually gets here, and then attend a track day not long after. )
really, i think you should forget about magnet numbers except for autocross. sure, you can tape them down, but then you could have just used tape to make the number anyway, which is ghetto.

i tried with some success some reusable vinyl numbers. they stick well at first, but eventually you get grit/dust on the sticky side, and eventually you have to replace them.

lately, i have been using temporary spray paint that you can get at autozone. you can have flexibility as to the number and size. you have to cut out a stencil, which takes all of 3 minutes, and spray. this is also pretty ghetto, but tidy enough, and cleans up easily.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/carart.html
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      04-08-2009, 04:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32 View Post
really, i think you should forget about magnet numbers except for autocross. sure, you can tape them down, but then you could have just used tape to make the number anyway, which is ghetto.
Everyone has an opinion. The tape does not have to be done in a way that appears to be ghetto. Particularly if your number panel is the same color as your racer's tape. Perhaps I will take some pictures this weekend at Summit Point to use as examples.
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      04-12-2009, 11:21 AM   #13
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I'll get a better photo of mine up soon, but this works perfectly. I drew up a word document and emailed it to a local franchise type of print shop (Fast Signs I think) and they had it done in 4 days for $60 (2 magnets). I made this one similar to what the BMW Motorsports uses for their race cars. BMW Motorsports at the top, number in the middle, & BMW 128i Coupe on the bottom. Black line arount the edge. They rounded the corners so it would not peel away. If you are doing SCCA & need to indicate class have it printed or just add some blank spce to the right of your number and use the vinyl stickers. The next one I do will have some colors and some blank space to the left of the number for sponsor type stickers & possibly my last name.
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      04-13-2009, 09:14 AM   #14
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try this...great price and quality too:

http://www.izoomgraphics.com/
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      04-13-2009, 11:21 AM   #15
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^ Thanks for the link!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezmo View Post
I'll get a better photo of mine up soon, but this works perfectly. I drew up a word document and emailed it to a local franchise type of print shop (Fast Signs I think) and they had it done in 4 days for $60 (2 magnets). I made this one similar to what the BMW Motorsports uses for their race cars. BMW Motorsports at the top, number in the middle, & BMW 128i Coupe on the bottom. Black line arount the edge. They rounded the corners so it would not peel away. If you are doing SCCA & need to indicate class have it printed or just add some blank spce to the right of your number and use the vinyl stickers. The next one I do will have some colors and some blank space to the left of the number for sponsor type stickers & possibly my last name.
Thanks for posting the image Dezmo. Very helpful!
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      04-14-2009, 09:58 PM   #16
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Good options here as well, happy with mine:
http://www.soloperformance.com/
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      04-16-2009, 11:18 AM   #17
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I'm having mine made. My bro-n-law did this one for me. Lmk which one looks good. Thx. Sorry for being so big..as ineed it to uplaod to a website.
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      04-25-2009, 02:05 PM   #18
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Which size do you think would work well with a 3-number (no class letters) oval shape? My 135i is still on the boat or I'd just go out an measure.

Click here for the size chart (it's huge or else I'd just put it in this post)

Initially I'm thinking 20" wide and 11" tall is pretty darn big on a 1 series.
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      04-25-2009, 03:00 PM   #19
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10" numbers with 5" letters on my 135i

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      04-26-2009, 04:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerMeUp View Post
10" numbers with 5" letters on my 135i

Thanks BimmerMeUp! That was very helpful. Did you choose removable vinyl, magnetic, of permanent vinyl for those numbers? They look great.
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      04-26-2009, 11:17 AM   #21
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Those are magnetic. That's pretty much what everyone uses at our autox events. Vinyl can look great, but is more of a pain to put on (have to work the bubbles out with some solution) and don't last as well (get dirty). The magnetic material from Solotime works great, we only occasionally have to retrieve someones numbers from the course, and usually that's because they have gotten curly and have edges sticking out into the wind.

I store mine on a box I built with a top made from an old whiteboard; the older whiteboards were made from sheet metal and magnets stick. I've seen folks with a loose leaf binder of sheets of metal to store numbers - you want to try to keep them clean and flat. Sometimes, if it is cold, I'll let them sit on top of the engine for a few minutes to warm up, then they bend to body contours better than if cold and stiff.

Good luck!
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      04-26-2009, 12:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerMeUp View Post
Sometimes, if it is cold, I'll let them sit on top of the engine for a few minutes to warm up, then they bend to body contours better than if cold and stiff.
That's a nice little trick!
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