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BMW M5 F90 (2018+) General Forums Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB | Recalls    miami engines coolant tank install

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      11-27-2024, 09:40 PM   #1
jdl5068
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miami engines coolant tank install

So I've only had my car since May but upon learning of it's biggest design flaw I couldn't sleep knowing the looming threat and that I hope to keep this car forever.

After seeing this new find of the miami engines alternative I had to have it since it is a moroso tank and relocated!
(https://f90.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2131713)

Hopefully it's ok to post miami engines instructions they sent me which were straight forward and the job was easy. About 1.5 hours or less, I just wish they didn't use a potato to take the pictures lol.

My key notes are that the only place there could ever be an issue is if the clamps the connect the old lines to new ever came undone somehow some way, but thats likes .001%

Also be gentle removing the cowling! where it goes into the track right below the windshield glass is a very snug fit and the plastic lip on the cowling is maybe 3/16" deep by 1/16" wide and mine separated from it about 33% or more of its integrity.

One more thing is that if you have the pre LCI that there are two grommet locations underneath / along the engine bay weather stripping. The rear one currently has the power wire for the passenger side DME through it which gets relocated about 5 inches forward to the other grommet location so the return coolant lines can go through there. Doing so really bunches up that heavy gauge wire so fit it accordingly and also reuse the old grommet and notch out the bottom of it to help hold that wire down.

Lastly it doesn't seem possible for the main coolant line to be unkinked but you can work it so its not and also not touching the rear of the head, not that I suspect and rubbing wear or melting of the line ... this is the one pic I forgot to take a pic of done...

Oh and I fished the plug wire through the weather stripping instead of along side / underneath it and also just did this procedure to bleed even though i felt nothing was necessary


pic 1/2 cowling lip/track
pic 3/4 oe tank gone / location for new tank
pic 5/6 brace and weather stripping out / new grommet ( yes supposed to be oblong)
pic 7/8 new tank in
pic 9/10 new lines
pic 11/12 DME power wire
pic 13 installed look
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File Type: pdf Miami Engines Coolant Relocation Kit Installation Instructions.pdf (2.17 MB, 167 views)

Last edited by jdl5068; 11-27-2024 at 09:46 PM.. Reason: forgot to add miami engines PDF
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      11-27-2024, 09:56 PM   #2
GTTC
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Thanks for sharing. Very good write up and thanks for the pics. I’ll probably do something like that at some point. Give us an update about 6months from now. I’m very curious on how well the connections to the factory hoses holds up.
Does it holds same amount of fluid?

Last edited by GTTC; 11-27-2024 at 09:58 PM..
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      11-27-2024, 10:57 PM   #3
jdl5068
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I will absolutely hope to remember in the spring to follow up. Fluid capacity is near identical, a little more actually in the new tank.

The machined couplers seemed quality and had large single flares at each side. Factory hoses were a very hard rubber with molded bends and barely flexible line compared to what miami engines supplied
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      11-28-2024, 06:47 AM   #4
quadcammer
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Those hose clamps look like cheap junk. I would buy some norma worm clamps, or even better some constant tension spring clamps
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      11-28-2024, 06:10 PM   #5
jdl5068
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you're not wrong quad they are as plain and simple as those come, but i've never seen one let go or leak. also I had no idea the size of the lines being sent in the kit so couldn't be prepared with better alternatives... my clamp assortment in my barn are exactly those style lol
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      11-28-2024, 06:38 PM   #6
pbonsalb
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They look like quality hose clamps to me — they have rolled edges and are stainless. They are longer than they need to be, which is a sloppy choice.
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      11-29-2024, 05:39 AM   #7
Holset
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Nice and thanks! 👍👌
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      04-10-2026, 12:21 AM   #8
Shil Patel
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I’m in between this kit or the RK Autowerks billet tank. RK’s tank definitely seems way easier to install but obviously is still in the same location. Just wanting some opinions on what to do.
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      04-10-2026, 08:06 AM   #9
pbonsalb
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I like the relocation kit, but am not using one. I have instead done a lot of heat mitigation work and use the stock tank.
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      04-14-2026, 09:31 AM   #10
SAINTZK1NG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I like the relocation kit, but am not using one. I have instead done a lot of heat mitigation work and use the stock tank.
Pictures/Info on said heat mitigation?
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      04-14-2026, 09:54 AM   #11
pbonsalb
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Some of what I have done is pictured here. I have also Jet Hot 2500 coated return manifolds, installed DEI GT22 turbine wraps, installed a lower temperature engine thermostat, use CSF intercoolers, have the Carbahn supplemental intercooler heat exchanger, and run water methanol injection controlled by a JB4.

Bang for the buck are turbine wraps, cat wrap, and reflective fiberglass heat tape. I bought the DEI turbine wraps because they were cheap at the time on eBay and few if any other options. Funk was not making GT22 wraps at the time, just the big blanket to drape over everything that was originally for the F10 M5.
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Last edited by pbonsalb; 04-14-2026 at 10:19 AM..
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