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      05-26-2008, 04:40 PM   #1
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What subs fit under the seats?

I have the HiFi-System with 10 speakers. 2 subs under the seats.

Does anyone know the size on the subs?
Which brand should I buy?
Is it plug and play?
Will it play good with orginal amp?
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      05-26-2008, 05:05 PM   #2
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Auto - they are around 8" - you'll find a lot of threads on this subject inside this forum.
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      05-26-2008, 05:06 PM   #3
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Hey
there are 16 cm with the vanilla stereo, and 20.x cm with both of the HiFi versions.
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      05-27-2008, 12:24 AM   #4
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The answer to your last 2 questions is no.
I prefer JL audio, everyone has their own preference.

Sub diameters are 8", but what's more important is the mounting depth, the height of the sub if you will.
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      05-27-2008, 04:27 AM   #5
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How good is the HiFi amp?
Could you please give me some model names on subs that are good and fit?
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      05-27-2008, 08:53 PM   #6
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Find out the mounting depth under the seats and I will give you models
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      05-28-2008, 11:00 AM   #7
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I'd bet money that an 8w1 would fit, the problem is going to be the power supply. I think I read that the stock BMW amp supplies 40w and that's not really enough even for the w1 but it's still probably the best bet. Kicker makes a shallow CompVT that supports 50wRMS min. and that's probably going to be the closest power match in a shallow and there aren't very many shallow 8's, most shallows are 10's and 12's... Polk's MOMO 8" accepts down to 30w... The JL's typically like the power in the higher 'spec'ed' RMS range, for instance, the w1 is 35 to 150 and I'd bet it really wants 125 to 150, the polk is probably what I'd go with if your keeping the amp stock.

I'd like to pick up a pair of JL's new shallow 13Tw5's and put it in a nice shallow box behind the rear seat; at .8 cu. ft. there's a lot I could do with it and they're good to 400 or 500 watts, so throw a 300/2 on each and see how they do...
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      05-28-2008, 11:28 AM   #8
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image from another post. which systems are the States getting?

The HiFi as our std. and the Top HiFi as our Premium? If so, then the subs will be seeing 70w. The std. stereo in the US has subs doesn't it?

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      05-28-2008, 01:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sredish View Post
I'd bet money that an 8w1 would fit, the problem is going to be the power supply. I think I read that the stock BMW amp supplies 40w and that's not really enough even for the w1 but it's still probably the best bet. Kicker makes a shallow CompVT that supports 50wRMS min. and that's probably going to be the closest power match in a shallow and there aren't very many shallow 8's, most shallows are 10's and 12's... Polk's MOMO 8" accepts down to 30w... The JL's typically like the power in the higher 'spec'ed' RMS range, for instance, the w1 is 35 to 150 and I'd bet it really wants 125 to 150, the polk is probably what I'd go with if your keeping the amp stock.

I'd like to pick up a pair of JL's new shallow 13Tw5's and put it in a nice shallow box behind the rear seat; at .8 cu. ft. there's a lot I could do with it and they're good to 400 or 500 watts, so throw a 300/2 on each and see how they do...
I'd like to hear the TW5's in action, wonder how long before they release the smaller subs. If I choose to drop in a sub and 8W1s wont fit or are not as powerful as I'd like, I will be going with a 10W6 or 10W7. I'm just reluctant to believe there's more then a few inches in mounting depth currently.

If you're using stock power it might be an issue, I doubt that can drive the 8W1 well. I will be adding a mono amp for sure.
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      05-28-2008, 02:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Mor View Post
I'd like to hear the TW5's in action, wonder how long before they release the smaller subs.
On the JL shallows, I believe all they're going to market are a 13" version and a 12" version and no more.
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      05-28-2008, 02:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sredish View Post
image from another post. which systems are the States getting?

The HiFi as our std. and the Top HiFi as our Premium? If so, then the subs will be seeing 70w. The std. stereo in the US has subs doesn't it?

Yes - standard = hi-fi, and premium = top hi-fi. So 70w should be correct based on that document.
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      05-28-2008, 03:22 PM   #12
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that should power the w1's fine, now if there's only enough room for the 3.8" needed for the depth.
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      05-28-2008, 10:26 PM   #13
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Can someone open it up and take a look?
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      05-29-2008, 08:53 AM   #14
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Usually better subs that put out more bass require alot more watts RMS. Even if they are efficient they will require more power. I don't think changing the subs under the seats is a good idea. Just get a small single JL Audio 10", tap into the signal from the rear speakers, get a clean 300 watt RMS amp and you will have the best of both worlds. The decent bass from the OEM dual 8's under the seats and a good small lightweight sub in the trunk.
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      05-29-2008, 02:13 PM   #15
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Jeff - won't the signal going to the rear speakers be filtered? I would expect they don't get much information below 80hz or so.
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      05-29-2008, 03:02 PM   #16
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You can use a unit like the JL cleansweep. Since I want to conserve my trunk space and not have to worry about removing the box when I need space, I'll most likely change the subs and just run power to the subs under the seats. Shouldn't be a big deal to run some nice 12 or 14 awg speaker wire there.
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      05-29-2008, 05:10 PM   #17
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1Mor - have you decided where to mount the amp yet?
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      05-29-2008, 07:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Mor View Post
You can use a unit like the JL cleansweep. Since I want to conserve my trunk space and not have to worry about removing the box when I need space, I'll most likely change the subs and just run power to the subs under the seats. Shouldn't be a big deal to run some nice 12 or 14 awg speaker wire there.
The JL Audio cleansweep will be nice, but are you going to sweep the entire system, all speakers and subs? Or just the subs.
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      05-29-2008, 07:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jumpman View Post
Jeff - won't the signal going to the rear speakers be filtered? I would expect they don't get much information below 80hz or so.
That would be something I would have to investigate if I was doing it. Sometimes the signal is full freq and the speakers have a capacitor in-line to block low freq's, bass blockers.
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      05-29-2008, 07:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jumpman View Post
1Mor - have you decided where to mount the amp yet?
The amp would be best in the trunk where air circulates. Under seats they get too hot, unless you buy a very high quality amp that is designed to go down to 1 ohm and stay cool. Amps with fans helps, but top end amps are designed to not need fans. Some have both.
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      05-29-2008, 11:27 PM   #21
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Going to cleansweep just the subs for a nice perfect frequency, I'm picky with my bass.

Not exactly sure where I'm gonna mount it, once I get the car I'll figure that out. I definitely want it mounted away out of sight. Most likely on the left of the battery. I'm planning on going with the JL 500/1 Mono Amp, delivers steady at 1.5 ohms and has a nice huge heatsink on it. I've never ran fans in the past and never had overheating issues. If I do (which I doubt) I'll run some fans away from the heatsink.


Left of the battery looks like a good spot

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      05-30-2008, 05:27 AM   #22
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Yah, like I said high quality amps are designed to run without the need for fans. JL Audio make great items. The JL 500 mono amp shound be great.
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