[nick380]

Bought the BimmerTech amp for my 2021 M5 Competition. The amp I purchased is the Alpha One amplifier, which is a re-labeled Match UP 10. This amplifier is set up with a JD 500/1 mono amp for a 10W3v3 JL Audio 2-ohm subwoofer, 500 watts RMS. Additionally, I have high-quality aftermarket under-seat woofers: the Audison APBMW S8-2.2 (2-ohm, 8-inch under-seat woofers). All these components are connected and utilized by the Match UP 10 DSP. Additionally, c.a.s.wicked created a really awesome enclosure. It’s a fiberglass construction and it is amazing. It fit perfect and with the way that the carpet is black, it matches the OEM perfectly. It is an OEM plus setup as I like to call it. It produces a lot of bass for how small the box is; I am surprised. I was thinking I might have to put another box on the other side for a 10-inch sub to add more bass, but one is perfect. Trust me, if you like bass, one 10-inch is just fine. It hits really awesome.






The technical support team at BimmerTech was extremely professional and super helpful. Maciej Stalmach, the technician I worked with, helped me dial in my system and spent over two hours tuning it. We went through the automatic time alignment and referenced some prior data to ensure the speaker distances were correct and the delay was properly set. We also tweaked the equalizer and adjusted the low and high passes. Once everything was dialed in, the system sounded incredible.

I was particularly impressed with Maciej's knowledge of BMWs and how the sound system can be adjusted. For instance, Maciej showed me how under-seat woofers can cancel out a single rear independent subwoofer at certain frequencies if the polarity isn't adjusted correctly. We tested the polarity on several songs, and it was evident how much of a difference it made.

As someone new to audio systems, this was a fascinating learning experience. Maciej's expertise and willingness to explain everything made the process enjoyable. We experimented with various settings and frequencies, which was really awesome. It was an amazing experience being able to adjust all the channels independently and tune them according to my preferences, which made a world of difference in sound quality.

A big shout-out to BimmerTech for their quick shipping and excellent packaging. The G30 bracket fit perfectly on my F90 M5, and the wiring kit was labeled nicely for an easy plug-and-play installation. The amp came with all the cables required for a plug-and-play solution, making it very easy to set up. With a couple of videos and a tutorial they provided me, I managed to get all the wires routed correctly. There are some things I would adjust in the DIY instructions, but no worries—it works really well, and most of it is very easy to figure out. Wiring in these cars is surprisingly straightforward, thanks to the rear-mounted battery and accessible wire routing. Some trim pieces were a bit tricky, but most came off easily.








The full install kit came with just about everything I needed. I used a code to get a free install kit that included torque sockets and other tools. It wasn't the most precise set of tools, but for free, I can't complain—it worked well. I used those tools until I switched to my own tools for the install. The packaging itself was very high quality, giving off Apple vibes with the way it slid up rather than opening traditionally. It had foam pre-cut for the brackets, and the amp was secured well. The packaging was great, nicely labeled too, which was awesome. The same goes for the JL Audio 10W3v3; it even came with a note, which is a nice touch. JL Audio has always been a favorite of mine in the subwoofer department—they make great stuff and are a domestic company, which I love supporting. The woofer itself is amazing, and compared to not having one, it makes a big difference. I also tested them on the floor just to see how they would hook up.
I highly recommend BimmerTech to anyone looking to upgrade their audio system. Many people start with replacing the speakers, but I believe the amplifier and DSP make the most significant impact. The stock Harman Kardon speakers in my M5 are decent, but they truly shine when driven and tuned correctly by a high-quality amp and DSP. For anyone with a Harman Kardon setup, I recommend upgrading the under-seat woofers, adding a DSP amp, and installing a mono amp with a separate subwoofer in the trunk for a solid audio setup. Even though this car doesn't have the Bowers & Wilkins system, I can tell you that after an amp and DSP, you won't need that upgrade. It will sound better than the Bowers & Wilkins setup, driven solidly and better tuned, especially if you have a calibration microphone. Bowers & Wilkins isn't going to be calibrated as well as it could be from the factory, and there's always tuning that can be done. This isn't the final tune on my setup either. In the future, I'm sure I'll make slight adjustments as I listen to it more and more over time. Highly recommended!

I will link an Imgur link with all my images attached. For now, I will have images of the packaging, as well as a link to a video of me doing the automatic time alignment, which is super cool. All the pictures and the video for the install will be in the Imgur link. I've added a little DIY tutorial as well with some details of things I ran into I've included the pdf they've sent me as well attached to the post.

View post on imgur.com

My Setup:
Alpha One Amplifier (Match UP 10): https://www.bimmer-tech.net/speakers...lifier-for-bmw
JD 500/1 Mono Amp: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/jd5...plifiers-98362
10W3v3 JL Audio 2-Ohm Subwoofer: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/10w...bwoofers-92150
Audison APBMW S8-2.2 Under-Seat Woofers: https://audison.com/product/apbmw-s8-2-2/
Dayton EMM-6 Calibration Microphone: https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/...ent-microphone
Behringer UMC22 USB Audio Interface: https://www.behringer.com/product.ht...lCode=0805-AAJ

PDF INSTALL: G30 MGU HK Alpha One Ampifier Installation Instructions.pdf

Thanks again to the team at BimmerTech for making this an amazing experience! A big shout-out to Maciej for his time, expertise, and knowledge. It goes to show there are still professionals in the field who are willing to spend the time and effort.

### DIY Tutorial for Installing the BimmerTech Alpha One Amplifier, JL Audio JD500/1 Mono Amp, and JL Audio 10W3v3 Subwoofer

#### Preparation
1. **Unbox Everything:**
- Carefully unbox all components.
- The full install kit came with everything needed, including torque sockets and other tools.
- The packaging was high quality, with foam pre-cut for the brackets and the amp secured.

#### Installation Process

1. **Remove All Trim in the Trunk:**
- **Flat Board Removal:**
- Remove the flat particle board cover on the bottom floor of the trunk by pulling and sliding it out.
- **Plastic Trim Piece Removal:**
- Remove the plastic trim piece on the end of the bumper by pulling straight up. It’s clipped in tightly, so it may sound like it’s breaking, but it’s not.
- **Side Trim Removal:**
- Remove a total of four clips per side and the Torx bolt (T40) for the hanger hold-down in the trunk.
- Remove the plastic cap and then the T40 Torx bolt.

2. **Expose the Modules:**
- Once the covers are removed, expose the RAM and booster modules and the two plastic storage covers in each corner.
- Remove the storage covers (10 mm nuts) and set them aside.

3. **Install the BimmerTech Plug:**
- Locate the hole on the right side of the back driver-side pocket and plug it with the BimmerTech plug provided.

4. **Connect the Harness:**
- Follow the instructions to connect the harness.
- The plugs are labeled and are straightforward to install. They are essentially piggyback connectors.

5. **Wire Routing:**
- Use zip ties and OEM routing channels where possible.
- Use adhesive zip ties for wire organization. These adhesive pads have zip ties that go through them and are shown in the pictures.
- Route the wires through the back driver-side pocket and the OEM conduit on the passenger side.
- All grounds are connected straight to the chassis. The ground for the amp follows the power wires through the OEM conduit where the battery sits on the right side.
- To open the OEM conduit, stick a flat blade screwdriver in and push the tabs down to release the conduit cover. Keep tension on it while releasing the clips so they don't re-engage.

6. **Grounding and Power Connections:**
- Use the OEM ground straight to the chassis. Remove the nut (13 mm) to expose a clean surface for grounding.
- Disconnect the negative terminal off the battery (10 mm nut) before starting the install.

7. **Routing Signal Wires:**
- Route the signal wires to the edge of the trunk. Refer to the pictures for the RCA line out, which will feed the line out from the DSP (known as K line within the DSP tool software) to the mono sub amp.

8. **Emergency Release Removal:**
- Remove the emergency release by pushing down the tab on the handle and pulling out the metal locker.

9. **Passenger Side Cover Removal:**
- Remove the cigarette lighter connector on the passenger side.
- Fold down the seats to access the clips hidden back there.
- Slide the side covers towards the middle of the car and then up to remove them.

10. **Sub Amp Installation:**
- Use foam adhesive to adhere the sub amp on the passenger side storage hole onto the frame. Clean the surface with alcohol before applying the adhesive.

11. **USB Cable and Sub Wires Routing:**
- Route the USB cable for the Match 10 DSP and the sub wires through the cover opening.

12. **Under-Seat Woofers Installation:**
- Roll the seat backward and remove the plastic covers over the bolts.
- Remove the two front Torx bolts (T40 or T45), then roll the seat forward to remove the two rear Torx bolts.
- Tilt the seat back to access the cover for the under-seat woofer.
- Remove the four T20 bolts (or smaller) from the woofer cover.
- Use a hooked pick to remove the subwoofer from the adhesive.

13. **Install New Subwoofer:**
- Remove any remaining adhesive.
- Install the new subwoofer with the foam spacer provided (optional).
- Reattach the cover and bolts.

14. **Reinstall Everything:**
- Reverse the process to reinstall all covers and trims.
- Ensure all connections are secure and routed correctly.

15. **Removing ASD: (Active Sound Design, Engine Noise through speakers within cabin, I utilized bimmer utilities for this, but anything that can access module for Coding will work fine.**
- Go into RAM Module -> 3001_Audio und ASD -> Set Everything to Nicht Aktiv or Disabled, and Set Channels from 8 to 2 if not set already. Otherwise ASD will be boosted, I left it on for shits and giggles. Car sounds like its misfiring on idle through the speakers, and on WOT sounds like a Subaru. I had a good laugh for sure.

[johnny5ive]

Any issues with the trunk and the soundproofing? I was debating making a passthrough via the rear center set because loads of people complain the sound doesn't travel well.

[nick380]

Originally Posted by johnny5ive

Any issues with the trunk and the soundproofing? I was debating making a passthrough via the rear center set because loads of people complain the sound doesn't travel well.

Not at all, it has folding seats. Sound passes through and very well. also, Subwoofers play low frequencies, which all travel through objects nicely. I went with the corner loaded enclosure to save room, go for more of an oem + look. It hits HARD. I mean for just a single 10, if I really needed more bass I'd add another to the driver's side. I don't feel that way, I listen to deep house, progressive melodic, and other similar music. All play very much into the lower frequencies 100HZ<. and when the Audison underseats, and the trunk sub are in harmony, it's magical how much bass these can produce. Yea it's not ported, so not super ideal for the very low stuff, but being an closed box and for the volume. It's perfect :-).

[johnny5ive]

Originally Posted by nick380

Not at all, it has folding seats. Sound passes through and very well. also, Subwoofers play low frequencies, which all travel through objects nicely. I went with the corner loaded enclosure to save room, go for more of an oem + look. It hits HARD. I mean for just a single 10, if I really needed more bass I'd add another to the driver's side. I don't feel that way, I listen to deep house, progressive melodic, and other similar music. All play very much into the lower frequencies 100HZ<. and when the Audison underseats, and the trunk sub are in harmony, it's magical how much bass these can produce. Yea it's not ported, so not super ideal for the very low stuff, but being an closed box and for the volume. It's perfect :-).

do you keep the seats down or you drive around with them up? I'm debating adding one 12 to the back in a box against the seat and trying to figure out how to ensure it sounds good.

Not sure if I need to do this:

[nick380]

Originally Posted by johnny5ive

do you keep the seats down or you drive around with them up? I'm debating adding one 12 to the back in a box against the seat and trying to figure out how to ensure it sounds good.

Not sure if I need to do this:

Nope, having folding seats is plenty. No need to have them folded down as trunk is not sealed like a non-folding trunk would be. Having the sub point back is probably one of the more worse positioning in my opinion. The best position is in the back of the trunk pointing towards the front of the car. Which is why I opted for a corner loaded enclosure, albeit it shoots the side. It was a comprise for space and appearance.

[johnny5ive]

Originally Posted by nick380

Which is why I opted for a corner loaded enclosure, albeit it shoots the side. It was a comprise for space and appearance.

I'm actually gonna show this to my guy and see if we can jam a 10 in each corner rather than the box in the back. Thanks!

[nick380]

Originally Posted by johnny5ive

I'm actually gonna show this to my guy and see if we can jam a 10 in each corner rather than the box in the back. Thanks!

100%. I'm telling you, you won't be disappointed. If you were local. I'd drop by and have you take a listen.

[johnny5ive]

I also see you upgraded the underseat subs. Worth it as well?

[nick380]

Originally Posted by johnny5ive

I also see you upgraded the underseat subs. Worth it as well?

100%. The stock subs are ok, but you can't drive them very much. I wanna say 70Watts? The mids and transition once tuned is ideal. I'd say do the underseat first before the main sub in the rear. You'd be suprised what those can do with some good power to them. Then the rear to hit those low frequencies and then tune the pass off and timing and all of the sudden the HK system doesn't seem too bad . These you can drive the full potential of those channels off the Match 10 Amp, Each channel drives 160watts to the underseat which are perfectly rated from Audison for that. With the mono amp (JD 500/1) taking care of the 10w3v3 JL Audio Sub.