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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > **DATAZAP, '07 335i, FBO, MHD+, 93oct, 134k miles**



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      12-14-2020, 04:17 PM   #1
kazbek1
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**DATAZAP, '07 335i, FBO, MHD+, 93oct, 134k miles**

https://datazap.me/u/kazbek1/stage-2...0&data=3-21-25

2007 335i, FBO, MHD Stage 2+, original turbos, 134k miles

Background: Everytime I stepped on it around 3rd or 4th gear, my engine light would come on with a 30ff code. I replaced both boost solenoids and all the vacuum lines about 5 months (1k miles) ago in an attempt to fix it. Purchased MHD about 3 weeks ago, logged a couple runs and was only hitting about 6 psi. Readjusted the chargepipe clamps which seemed to finally do the trick. I also have some nice WG rattle going on so I applied vacuum pressure to each WG through the boost solenoids. The front turbo held constant vacuum but the rear had a slow leak. I tightened the rear turbo's WG actuator rod (3 revolutions), retested it, and it held consistent pressure. Logged a few runs and was able to get about about 16-17psi.

This last run I logged, I started in 3rd gear (around 40mph), floored it, and held it until I nearly redlined. That's when the engine light popped up again right as I was about to shift into 4th. The car didn't go into limp mode, just displayed the half-engine light (same as it did when I previously had the boost leak).

A few things concern me while viewing this log:

1. I'm assuming I want cylinder timing corrections to be at 0 but it looks like the only one that does that is cylinder 3. What's going on here?

2. Rail pressure seems ok for the most part until the end when it drops as low as 463. What's the lowest it should normally drop to? How do I fix this issue?

3. I don't know where it should be but 'timing cyl 1 *crk' seems to be all over the place. Where should those values be and what's the remedy for that?

Thanks in advance, everyone. Please let me know if there is anything else I should look into.

Last edited by kazbek1; 12-14-2020 at 06:14 PM..
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      12-14-2020, 06:13 PM   #2
iqraceworks
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When you logged your last run and got the half-engine symbol....what codes did it throw? It looks like you are getting timing corrections on all cylinders.

What MHD tune are you running? And what mods?
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      12-14-2020, 06:19 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
When you logged your last run and got the half-engine symbol....what codes did it throw? It looks like you are getting timing corrections on all cylinders.

What MHD tune are you running? And what mods?
Ah my bad. I knew I forgot something (edited). I have an 07 335i with FBOs running Stage 2+ on 93 octane. I don't know what code it threw unfortunately. After it happened, I turned the WG rattle fix off and retuned it. I forgot that it will clear the codes when I do that so I didn't get a chance to see. I'm assuming 30ff just because that's what caused it in the past

What are possible causes of timing corrections? What are the normal values I should be seeing?
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      12-14-2020, 06:37 PM   #4
Saif2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Ah my bad. I knew I forgot something (edited). I have an 07 335i with FBOs running Stage 2+ on 93 octane. I don't know what code it threw unfortunately. After it happened, I turned the WG rattle fix off and retuned it. I forgot that it will clear the codes when I do that so I didn't get a chance to see. I'm assuming 30ff just because that's what caused it in the past

What are possible causes of timing corrections? What are the normal values I should be seeing?
Timing corrections are due to bad fuel quality, plugs /coils and possibly injectors, etc

I would look at replacing plugs and coils if you haven't done so recently first as they are cheaper.

30FF is a boost leak, worst case wastegates shot.

Recommend following this guide...

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/
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      12-14-2020, 07:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
Timing corrections are due to bad fuel quality, plugs /coils and possibly injectors, etc

I would look at replacing plugs and coils if you haven't done so recently first as they are cheaper.

30FF is a boost leak, worst case wastegates shot.

Recommend following this guide...

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/
Thanks for this! Hoping it's not injector related. I'm not sure when the last time it was that the spark plugs/coils were replaced so I'll look into that. Any suggestions on which plugs/coils to go with? Is it worth going aftermarket with the mods I have?

Ive looked at that link like 100 times already lol I already did everything on there and am thinking it might just be time to replace my turbos.
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      12-15-2020, 12:13 AM   #6
Saif2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Thanks for this! Hoping it's not injector related. I'm not sure when the last time it was that the spark plugs/coils were replaced so I'll look into that. Any suggestions on which plugs/coils to go with? Is it worth going aftermarket with the mods I have?

Ive looked at that link like 100 times already lol I already did everything on there and am thinking it might just be time to replace my turbos.
OEM Bosch plugs are fine, other NGK 1 step colder plugs and Eldor or Delphi coils.

If you've done everything and you still get 30FF code, yoir wastegates or turbos might be done for.

Have you done a leak test?
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      12-15-2020, 06:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
OEM Bosch plugs are fine, other NGK 1 step colder plugs and Eldor or Delphi coils.

If you've done everything and you still get 30FF code, yoir wastegates or turbos might be done for.

Have you done a leak test?
I haven't done one yet. That was going to be my next option but repositioning the chargpipe and adjusting the WG rod seemed to had done the trick. I guess not so I'll do a smoke test next. I do have a feeling it's the WG or turbos.
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      12-15-2020, 07:52 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
I haven't done one yet. That was going to be my next option but repositioning the chargpipe and adjusting the WG rod seemed to had done the trick. I guess not so I'll do a smoke test next. I do have a feeling it's the WG or turbos.
Then your turbos probably fine.

Do another log and check, if its not then leak test,

Stock turbos do go, but they usually last quite a while.
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