11-05-2020, 06:51 PM | #1 |
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Must-Do Performance Mods for $3k Budget
Warranty on 440i just expired and looking to switch it up
I'm looking for the most cost-effective way to improve the driving experience & handling characteristics of the car. Not too worried about aesthetics or maxing performance stats per se -- I just want to build a really fun car within a budget. (disclaimer: I'm pretty new to this stuff so go easy on me) Goals:
I currently have: - MT clutch stop ($10) -- perfect example of a cheap mod that really improved driving experience Everything else is pretty much stock m-sport. Upgrades I'm looking at: Power/sound: - CTS catted DP ($350) -- already have, got a sweet discount - BM3 ($600) - BMS intake ($170) Handling: - Light-weight 19s ($900) - UHP tires, i.e. Firestone Indy 500s ($600) -- replacing my 18" run-shats - B14 Coilovers ($1050) -- initially thought these were just for looks/stance. Doing some research clearly proved me wrong. - H&R Sport Springs ($200) -- have heard mixed things about the handling impact for lowering springs in general If I got everything I've been recommended I'd probably end up spending $5k+, which I sadly can't afford Is there anything I've missed, and does my list make sense at all? I realize I can also probably knock down some of these prices by buying used / looking for Black Friday deals. tldr; If you were given a stock 440i, $3000, and the goal of building the car that would put the biggest smile on your face, what would you do? |
11-06-2020, 01:47 AM | #3 |
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Hope you have good fuel
I'd do: Bootmod3 Downpipe Exhaust Skip intake. Higher IAt and no power. Skip everything else. |
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11-06-2020, 08:32 AM | #4 |
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I would do something to take advantage of the current setup on your car. Something like autocross (very fun and safe) or track days (also very fun but less safe). Autocross is much less expensive than track days. I very much doubt you are currently able to experience the full capabilities of your car unless you are having fun at autocross or track days. Once you find your car's limits (and yours) you will have a better idea of where to spend your money.
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11-06-2020, 08:39 AM | #5 | |
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- Exhaust - Downpipe - Tune (Stage 1 or Stage 2) Skip intake. Only placebo benefits and plenty of potential disadvantages. This said, I wouldn't call any of the above a "must-do". I for one have not yet done all 3. However the 440i is really really begging for a less-modest exhaust. That's why I'd start there.
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11-06-2020, 11:44 AM | #6 | |
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But I've also heard that axlebacks don't really improve performance, so it'd mainly just be for sound. I'm wondering if that $1200 might be better spent on a set of coilovers that have a real impact on handling. I don't need something crazy loud either -- maybe I'll see how I feel about just a DP and tune first? All that said, the metric I'm looking to maximize is fun/$$$, and if that happens to be putting my budget into exhaust note then so be it |
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11-06-2020, 11:57 AM | #8 | |
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But even as a DD I think I'm craving a little more exhilaration -- the f30 is a great car but currently feels a little subdued. Maybe because I'm coming from a '98 Z3 (way slower but so much fun) |
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11-06-2020, 01:16 PM | #9 | |
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Either way, my advice would be - do less, but do them right!! Especially if you intend to keep and enjoy your vehicle for longer. Louder is not necessarily better/nicer. P.s. sound is fun! Especially if you respect the thin borderline between "sound" and "noise", which many unfortunately do not comprehend.
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11-06-2020, 02:11 PM | #10 | |
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11-06-2020, 02:31 PM | #11 |
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Just get a muffler shop to peel open your stock muffler and weld shut the perforated sections, then close it back up and reinstall on the car. Exhaust sounds way better and will cost a fraction of buying a replacement axle-back system that ultimately just does the same thing.
I have an MHD tune on mine and really like it, and it's cheaper than BM3. If you like to hear your turbo spooling and blowing off then get an aftermarket intake. No there is no performance improvement, but the sound is pretty fun. I do think 19" rims look better but if you already like the look of your 18s don't go replacing the rims just to save a couple pounds. The chances you will be able to tell the difference driving it are pretty much zero. What effect on handling are you looking for? For street driving nothing is going to make a bigger improvement than putting good tires on the car. |
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11-06-2020, 02:44 PM | #12 | |
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The ONLY thing I would do immediately on the OP's list is to change the tires. The sooner you get rid of the run flats, the happier you'll be.
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11-06-2020, 02:53 PM | #13 | |
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11-06-2020, 03:18 PM | #14 | |
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My goals for handling are: - more responsive steering - better road feedback I don't care too much for ride quality -- in fact I'd rather have a harsher ride if it helps me achieve the above. The reason I'm looking to upsize to 19s is precisely to improve road feedback at the expense of ride quality (I've heard going from RFTs to go-flats makes for a softer ride anyways.) Weight-reduction wasn't my primary goal per se, but I found a great set of 20lb 19s for about $900 https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1750133. The new wheel/tire setup would shave ~9lb unsprung mass off each corner compared to my stock setup, which I figure I should notice at least a little bit. Does my thinking make sense? Again, pretty new at this so happy to learn. |
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11-06-2020, 03:24 PM | #15 | |
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11-06-2020, 03:28 PM | #16 | |
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11-06-2020, 07:57 PM | #17 |
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I will try to explain. Run flats are fine if your area is prone to flats (dodgy areas of cities for example) but they are not performance tires. With my BMW 440iX I found that the 18" tire size is a good compromise between road holding and comfort for my area so I kept this size. The roads here are bumpy, crowned, poorly paved with potholes through dense wooded areas. I switched to softer sticky rubber and slightly wider tires to allow you to go at speed without being bumped around in an unsafe manner. Getting a stiffer suspension, thin side walled large wheels or more horsepower does not help. Really the roads I travel are better suited to a BMW M240 or a Subaru WRX due to their smaller overall size. A BMW 440 is really more suited to A and B roads like a GT and not the B and C roads I travel. I bought the BMW 440 as I wanted 4 wheel drive and a manual transmission. I looked at the BMW M240 but it was only available in rear wheel drive with a manual transmission. I prefer four wheel drive as its safer in black ice conditions we get in New England. Its much easier to spin out in a rear wheel drive car in icy conditions than a 4 wheel drive if you accelerate to fast.
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11-06-2020, 08:33 PM | #18 |
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11-07-2020, 03:24 AM | #19 | |
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Not that I don't believe you that non-RFTs are better (read it many times), but nothing of what you described seems to be applicable to the OP's query. I myself am considering prematurely getting rid of the RFTs next year, but I'd be mainly after improved performance and handling too and hopefully some less road-noise... luckily do not live in England either
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11-07-2020, 07:00 AM | #20 | ||
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Like this thread and responses so far. Subscribing. I second recommendations for tires, exhaust, chip |
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11-07-2020, 05:32 PM | #21 |
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I am interested in this too.
I have base 2016 340i with base suspension and wheels. I like the car but I think handling is too soft. I was thinking about m sport performance suspension retrofitt. https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...kgUGFnZQ%3D%3D Would this be good option? Also there is option of getting springs with the package. Should I get them? would those make big difference? Please help! |
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11-07-2020, 05:45 PM | #22 | |
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wheels and tires $1800 bm3 $600 + extra maps for stage 2 $50 vrsf fmic $300 (lightly used) vrsf dp $250 er charge pipe $350 That's $3350 but at stage 1 it's only $3050. I don't mind my full time m sport suspension so thats last for me.
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