[vr4spd]

Different symptoms than post below. Car had been driving fine just a
Few hours ago...well pulled out of Walmart just now and every warning light possible turned on along with the car shifting to neutral and finally killing the engine. When I turn the ignition back on I get a ton of dif codes along with the wipers going no stop. Additionally my JB4 connect will not establish a handshake. Will post codes momentarily.

2011
FBO 335is
JB4 w/mhd bef

[vr4spd]

Resting voltage on the battery is 11.7 which is peculiar given the battery is 90 days old. Its also odd that the JB4 refuses to connect. any help or suggestions where to start would be greatly appreciated.




BimmerGeeks ProTool

Date: 11.03.20 05:33 PM

Vin: NOTFOUNDXXXXXXXXX
Chassis:
Model:
Engine:
Body Style:


****************** Errors ******************
--------------------------------------------
FAMILY [VARIANTE] | CODE: DESCRIPTION
--------------------------------------------

JBBF [JBBF70] | C918: No message (wiper operation, 0x2A6), receiver JBE, transmitter FRM/SZL/LWS/IHKA
JBBF [JBBF70] | C90B: PT-CAN communication fault

DWA [DWA_63] | No errors found

PGS [PGS_65_2] | No errors found

FAS [FAS_PLX] | No errors found

RDC [RDCKWP] | No errors found

CAS [CAS] | A0B1: Input, selector-lever position, implausible
CAS [CAS] | A0B5: Fault, road speed signal
CAS [CAS] | A118: Roadspeed signal implausible

ZBE [ZBE_60_2] | No errors found

BFS [BFS_PLX] | No errors found

FRM [FRM_70] | A8C5: Daytime running light, left, faulty
FRM [FRM_70] | A8C6: Daytime running light, right, faulty
FRM [FRM_70] | A8A9: High beam/turn-off light, right, faulty
FRM [FRM_70] | A8A8: High beam/turn-off light, left, faulty
FRM [FRM_70] | E59C: No message (steering angle), receiver FRM, transmitter SZL/LWS/DSC
FRM [FRM_70] | E594: No message (steering angle), receiver FRM, transmitter SZL/LWS/DSC
FRM [FRM_70] | A8AB: Low beam, right, faulty
FRM [FRM_70] | 9CC0: Communication with step motor controller on the right disrupted
FRM [FRM_70] | 9CBF: Communication with step motor controller on the left disrupted

CID [CID_90] | No errors found

KOMBI [KOMB87] | A3AA: No description found
KOMBI [KOMB87] | A3AC: Message (distance travelled, 0x1A6) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DSC
KOMBI [KOMB87] | A550: Message (speed, 0x1A0) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DSC
KOMBI [KOMB87] | A565: No message (display, engine data, 0x175), receiver KOMBI, transmitter DME-DDE
KOMBI [KOMB87] | A3AD: Message (engine data, 0x1D0) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DME-DDE
KOMBI [KOMB87] | A3AB: Message (LDM, 0x190) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter LDM
KOMBI [KOMB87] | A3B9: Sporadic fault (failure, DSC message, 0x19E) No repair measures available, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DSC

KLIMA [IHKA87_2] | E72F: Message (status of DSC K-CAN, 0x19E) faulty, receiver IHKA, transmitter DSC
KLIMA [IHKA87_2] | E717: Message fault (engine data, 0x1D0), IHKA receiver, DME-DDE transmitter
KLIMA [IHKA87_2] | E71A: Message fault (torque 3, 0xAA), IHKA receiver, DME-DDE transmitter
KLIMA [IHKA87_2] | E71C: Message fault (speed, 0x1A0), IHKA receiver, DSC transmitter
KLIMA [IHKA87_2] | E71B: Message fault (heating current engine, 0x1B6), IHKA receiver, DME-DDE transmitter
KLIMA [IHKA87_2] | E720: Message error (power management, consumer control, 0x3B3), IHKA receiver, DME-DDE transmitter

CVM/CTM [CTM_93_6] | No errors found

MRS [ACSM2] | 93FB: No message (vehicle speed) from DSC, ACSM receiver / MRS5, DSC transmitter

VIRTSG92 [] | No errors found

VIRTSG92 [] | No errors found

TEL/MULF [TELE60_3] | No errors found

ISPB [ULF2_HI] | No errors found

VIRTSG92 [] | No errors found

VIRTSG92 [] | No errors found

FZD [FZD_87] | No errors found

[IllSic_Design]

Car dying, wipers going crazy and tons of warning lights are a classic sign of the car not getting enough voltage from the battery. Either the battery or alternator is the blame since I see no codes relating to the IBS.

If you have a pretty new battery then it's most likely the alternator. Mine went out a few months back and many of the same things happened to me that yours did and I needed a new voltage regulator for the alternator.

[vr4spd]

Thanks for the reply.

Wouldn’t I see some kind of progressive failure if it was the alternator like the car struggling to start or some other weird voltage failures? I’m a little worried the CAS or FRM shorted out or something as equally catastrophic. I removed the battery and put it on the charger and we’ll see where it’s at in the morning. I also noticed when I went to restart the car the transmission wouldn’t go into gear and it didn’t want to turn over correctly. Not to mention isn’t odd I couldn’t even connect via BT to the jb4?

[IllSic_Design]

Nope, not necessarily. My car started fine, drove to a few places, sat in a drive through, then started driving home. All the sudden on the way home the battery finally drained enough to make the wipers go crazy and then a few seconds later my car almost overheated due to the water pump being shut off due to not enough power. Shut the car off and when I came back to start it to take it home after cooling off and the battery was dead.

I'd charge the battery fully and make sure it has a full charge, then put it in and see what happens. If you can start the car I'd check the alt voltage right off the back of it, mine was actually overcharging(16+ volts).

[vr4spd]

Will do! I’ll report back tomorrow after I reinstall boat anchor.

[haaken675]

If you have a multimeter you can check the voltage while running to verify it is charging or not.

[vr4spd]

edit sorry for the lack of punctuation.

Fully charged battery.
cleared codes, CAME right back.
Rinse and repeat, I can get the car to actually start it will turnover though or I’d pull a reading from the alternator.
Any other suggestions?

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by vr4spd

yup, so fully charged battery cleared codes, come right back...any other suggestions?

Wait what, say that again?

So you cleared the codes and they all came back, is that what you said?

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by vr4spd

edit sorry for the lack of punctuation.

Fully charged battery.
cleared codes, CAME right back.
Rinse and repeat, I can get the car to actually start it will turnover though or I’d pull a reading from the alternator.
Any other suggestions?

I'm having these same exact issues tonight I'm going to try replacing my alternator and see if it fixes the issue. My car almost died on me dash is lit up wiper blades going crazy coolant light popped up then randomly got power back and the transmission didn't want to shift at all speedometer doesn't work etc..

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Car dying, wipers going crazy and tons of warning lights are a classic sign of the car not getting enough voltage from the battery. Either the battery or alternator is the blame since I see no codes relating to the IBS.

If you have a pretty new battery then it's most likely the alternator. Mine went out a few months back and many of the same things happened to me that yours did and I needed a new voltage regulator for the alternator.

I am having these same issues tonight and waiting on a buddy with tools and a used alternator to put on for right now to see if it resolves the issue .

[IllSic_Design]

If the battery is fully charged(and actually reading 12.4+ with a multimeter, not just the charger saying it's full) and the car won't try to turn over then I doubt it's an alt or battery issue.

Wheres gbalthrop

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

I am having these same issues tonight and waiting on a buddy with tools and a used alternator to put on for right now to see if it resolves the issue .

The alternator is not very easy to change out on these cars, I would try to pin point the problem before trying to just swap the alt if at all possible

[woodex m.e.]

Wasn't there a recall years ago on the power wires from the battery or something. There was some sort of corrosion or connection issue. I cent remember what it was because it was before my time.

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

The alternator is not very easy to change out on these cars, I would try to pin point the problem before trying to just swap the alt if at all possible

It's definitely a bad alternator it's charging at 18c currently even after putting a new battery in since old one had battery acid coming out.

[vr4spd]

I highly doubt its the alternator as well. Thanks for the reply BTW. You are correct, swapped a fully charged battery and the issue is till present. Im absolutely stumped...like I mentioned something peculiar I noticed is with the ignition on my Iphone will not connect to the JB4. is it possible that power is being interrupted somewhere before it makes it to some modules?

[vr4spd]

Bump. I'm still experiencing issues, the only way I can get the car to actually start is by disconnecting the IBS however the same codes still register. Is it possible the DME itself is not getting power which would explain why the JB4 inst powering on as well?

[IllSic_Design]

gbalthrop maybe can help, he's good with figuring out electrical issues

[JuniorB]

Check the rear micro ecu, open it up, and look for corrosion

[vr4spd]

Where is that located in the e93? There was a half tire sized cover over the wires running to the most-bus and the top side of the cover did
Have some moisture on it. The bus itself looked dry.

[vr4spd]

So Im still struggling to chase this down. Battery & Alternator are 100 percent good. Today I pulled the fusebox and JBE. The B+ cable looks brand new zero signs of corrosion same with the JBE itself. Additionally I checked all the grounds under the hood including the grounding strap as well as the grounds off the battery to no avail. The OBD port is also non-functional as well, the only way I can pull codes is protool because it reads all the modules. Is there anything that the windows based software can do that I can't replicate in protool?

[1275]

I had very similar issues a year ago. No symptoms of the car dying, went to lunch, came back and the car was crazy. All lights and warnings, wipers were nuts, car wouldn't run so needed to be towed home. Culprit was the voltage regulator on the alternator. I believe the stators in the regulator are a wear item and they can fail without notice.

A new VR was $100 (Aussie dollars) where a new 180amp alternator was going to be $1500... from memory you can swap the regulator with the alternator still in the car. I believe you can test this witha a multimeter, but for me it was obvious the VR was the problem when I removed the old one, as one of the stators was very worn and not making contact in the alternator.

Hope this helps your problem. I was so very happy it was k my the VR for me...