[Slim415]

Mod list-

MHD stage 2 tune
AFE dual cone intakes
VRSF 5" FMIC
VRSF catless downpipes
VRSF charge pipe
Tial BOV
BMS BOV vacuum adapter
1 step colder spark plugs

What do I have to remove to pass the SMOG test in CA? I heard there's a downpipe fix. Is that something that works?

[nicky dj]

Originally Posted by Slim415

Mod list-

MHD stage 2 tune
AFE dual cone intakes
VRSF 5" FMIC
VRSF catless downpipes
VRSF charge pipe
Tial BOV
BMS BOV vacuum adapter
1 step colder spark plugs

What do I have to remove to pass the SMOG test in CA? I heard there's a downpipe fix. Is that something that works?

Slim your screwed. Gotta swap out your downpipes. Everything else is workable.

It used to be you didn't have to, I used to take my car to some chop shop in LA and he would get passed for $250.

Now the new "rules" have something to do with the cat and 02 sensors have to be ready.

[alpnwss]

If you snoop around here you can see what people do to pass. But the car has to cycle for the 'Readiness' code. Gotta drive X miles at X speed.
Also apparently there is a visual inspection component? Might be wrong. AFE DCI should be covered. CP and IC might slide.

[nicky dj]

Originally Posted by alpnwss

If you snoop around here you can see what people do to pass. But the car has to cycle for the 'Readiness' code. Gotta drive X miles at X speed.
Also apparently there is a visual inspection component? Might be wrong. AFE DCI should be covered. CP and IC might slide.

How are you going to get the car in readiness with catless downpipes?

[sbsk518]

There are a few options regarding the DPs. Do a search a do you'll find a few. I like the DP fix though.

1. DP Fix (you can make your own or buy one for around $80-100). Some people regularly have the listed on various forums and eBay. Do a search for DIY vids on how to install it in the DME.

2. Flash MHD back to stock. Stage 2+ will keep turning off the check engine light and preventing your readiness markers from properly setting.

3. Convert CP and BOV back to stock. Also a good idea to put the stock airbox back on also. the BMS DCIs have a CARB sticker, but it's best to "appear" as close to stock as possible.

4. FMIC should be fine unless it's very visible.

5. Drive the readiness cycle (search for it and you should find it).

6. Check SMOG readiness status with an app

When your good to go get it smogged and then convert everything back. Make sure you remove DP fix.

[alpnwss]

Sbsk518 answered it perfectly. Flash to stock and wait for the readiness code to cycle. I don't think there is a tailpipe sniffer anymore.

[nicky dj]

According to "my guy" things have changed now California. I used to take it to this chop shop, remove my tune to stock, he would attach the machine to my ODB port and boom I was electronically passed. He said to me that he can do what's called a renewal jump without removing the downpipes, if I'm not planning on transferring title or selling the car.

Now I don't know if the DP fix still applies, might? But who sells it now unless you make it or buy it used.

I haven't smogged since May last year. Can someone chime in on who's done a smog most recently with downpipes installed?

[theobjectivist]

I went through this yesterday and passed.

What Sbsk said is spot on. CA is no joke when it comes to smog checks. Follow the below



1. You must remove anything thatll cause them to question your car. This means stock diverter values and airbox are mandatory. Immediate fail and all smog shops look for this. Dont think that something is too insignificant or it's not worth the effort to un/reinstall etc. You will fail. The only exception I saw was an aftermarket charge pipe providing its black and covered with dust/dirt to remove the shine.

2. Obscure all logos on IC piping. Twist it so logos are on the bottom etc. You dont list inlets, but if you do, hide logos and brush with dust to hide silicone shine. I used a dust clump from a vacuum cleaner. I had failed for inlets prior because they were clean and new.

3. The DP fix is mandatory. Get ready for a lot of trial and error. People say to start at 5 o'clock etc, my vrsf fix didnt work unto 8. Make sure youre resetting both lambda adaptions in MHD for each attempt. The drive cycle for readiness isnt what people list online. I can get it to update driving on freeway for only 4 miles. Nothing like the start, idle, slow drive, 30 mile etc routine they publish on the forums.

4. readiness indicators. On your MHD app under the read codes section, youll need all of the avail catalyst readiness indicators set to ready. The only indicator that doesnt need to be ready is the EVAP. The smog shop will test your gas cap.

To see readiness, youll need to flash to Stock 0 or uninstall. If keeping stock 0, remember to set the tick box for OEM cats under the flash options. (this is the only way for the for the indicators to work) function.

5. DPs. This is totally up to the smog shop. 99% of what I saw was the technician leaning under the car and looking. No mirror, no lift. I dont know what the E90s show,, but on my E60, you cannot see primary DPs without a lift or a long mirror etc. The smog guy was looking for ~2 mins and still passed me. I suspect he saw the secondaries and thought good enough.

If they spot DPs, there is a chance they automatically report you and youll need a state referee to inspect and yearly smog checks thereafter. One option is to ask the smog person for a preliminary smog check for readiness; not an official smog. Whatever they find is just for your info and not reported. If all goes smoothly, then pay again and have them do if officially.

6. Do not have active smog related codes showing. Even if there isnt a check engine light, the active codes (youll inevitably get when attempting to use DP fix) will tip the technician off. My guy got out a code reader after the CA obd reader finished. The DP fix will prob throw them eventually. I went straight from readiness showing to the shop relying on a short window to get it checked before codes appeared.

7. Stay away from big name smog shops (in my experience). Theyve too much money to lose and are liable. I was bounced from Smog King for aftermarket IC, inlet plumbing, and charge pipe twice because they have an actual checklist each technician is to follow (or i was told)

8 Smog shops all know if you failed previously. (but they cant see why) e.g - They all have the same access to the database so jumping from one shop to another after a fail may tip them off to 2x check.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by theobjectivist

I went through this yesterday and passed.

What Sbsk said is spot on. CA is no joke when it comes to smog checks. Follow the below



1. You must remove anything thatll cause them to question your car. This means stock diverter values and airbox are mandatory. Immediate fail and all smog shops look for this. Dont think that something is too insignificant or it's not worth the effort to un/reinstall etc. You will fail. The only exception I saw was an aftermarket charge pipe providing its black and covered with dust/dirt to remove the shine.

2. Obscure all logos on IC piping. Twist it so logos are on the bottom etc. You dont list inlets, but if you do, hide logos and brush with dust to hide silicone shine. I used a dust clump from a vacuum cleaner. I had failed for inlets prior because they were clean and new.

3. The DP fix is mandatory. Get ready for a lot of trial and error. People say to start at 5 o'clock etc, my vrsf fix didnt work unto 8. Make sure youre resetting both lambda adaptions in MHD for each attempt. The drive cycle for readiness isnt what people list online. I can get it to update driving on freeway for only 4 miles. Nothing like the start, idle, slow drive, 30 mile etc routine they publish on the forums.

4. readiness indicators. On your MHD app under the read codes section, youll need all of the avail catalyst readiness indicators set to ready. The only indicator that doesnt need to be ready is the EVAP. The smog shop will test your gas cap.

To see readiness, youll need to flash to Stock 0 or uninstall. If keeping stock 0, remember to set the tick box for OEM cats under the flash options. (this is the only way for the for the indicators to work) function.

5. DPs. This is totally up to the smog shop. 99% of what I saw was the technician leaning under the car and looking. No mirror, no lift. I dont know what the E90s show,, but on my E60, you cannot see primary DPs without a lift or a long mirror etc. The smog guy was looking for ~2 mins and still passed me. I suspect he saw the secondaries and thought good enough.

If they spot DPs, there is a chance they automatically report you and youll need a state referee to inspect and yearly smog checks thereafter. One option is to ask the smog person for a preliminary smog check for readiness; not an official smog. Whatever they find is just for your info and not reported. If all goes smoothly, then pay again and have them do if officially.

6. Do not have active smog related codes showing. Even if there isnt a check engine light, the active codes (youll inevitably get when attempting to use DP fix) will tip the technician off. My guy got out a code reader after the CA obd reader finished. The DP fix will prob throw them eventually. I went straight from readiness showing to the shop relying on a short window to get it checked before codes appeared.

7. Stay away from big name smog shops (in my experience). Theyve too much money to lose and are liable. I was bounced from Smog King for aftermarket IC, inlet plumbing, and charge pipe twice because they have an actual checklist each technician is to follow (or i was told)

8 Smog shops all know if you failed previously. (but they cant see why) e.g - They all have the same access to the database so jumping from one shop to another after a fail may tip them off to 2x check.

Excellent post. What do you have for aftermarket IC for the 535i? How was the install? Sorry op.

[Slim415]

That all sounds like a lot of work and the possibility of still not passing. I think I'll have my DPs removed for sure. I was just hoping I could get away with leaving my intake and CP/BOV on. This pic shows my engine. Will those parts fail visual inspection for sure?

[nicky dj]

Originally Posted by Slim415

That all sounds like a lot of work and the possibility of still not passing. I think I'll have my DPs removed for sure. I was just hoping I could get away with leaving my intake and CP/BOV on. This pic shows my engine. Will those parts fail visual inspection for sure?

Do you have your stock airbox? That's the easiest thing to reinstall, the intakes are just installed via 2 worm clamps to the inlets. The charge should be fine hidden under the airbox.

[IllSic_Design]

You will almost 100% fail visual with the intake and bov. When I smog mine I put on stock dp, and airbox and pass no problem, this is with hybrid turbos, inlet/outlets, FMIC, etc, but I do flash to stage 0/stock and make sure all monitors are set beside EVAP which you can have unset in CA. I run stock diverter valves though

[theobjectivist]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Excellent post. What do you have for aftermarket IC for the 535i? How was the install? Sorry op.

I chose the PSP 600ci IC.

Purpose built for an E60 and fits/performs very well. Ultra dense core, perfect welds and even accommodates the automatic trans cooler


Search bimm mer boost for "Install and initial review: PSP intercooler for a 535i" where I made a short review

[theobjectivist]

Originally Posted by Slim415

That all sounds like a lot of work and the possibility of still not passing. I think I'll have my DPs removed for sure. I was just hoping I could get away with leaving my intake and CP/BOV on. This pic shows my engine. Will those parts fail visual inspection for sure?

From my experience, youll fail immediately. Even the BMS intake thats CARB certified will tip the tech off and theyll search for more. The BOV is a straight fail.

Straight dope: dont get lazy. Do the work up front and save the headache.

And yes, the #$%^& DP fix is a complete pain in the ass.

[Riceball777]

big after market aluminum intercoolers as wells as big aluminum radiators do noy fall under any smog issues or regulations meaning they are all 100% legal.

There are 2 parts of passing a ca smog first is visuial

certain illegal thingg that you typically can get away with because they cant be seen or check and or they look stock are after market big hybrid turbos and most tunes should be fine. as long as you have an o2 fix you can get away with aftermarket catless downpipes 90% of the times since they are hard to see. The aftermarket aluminum black charge pipe as well as black silicone inlets have a high change of passing the visual.

Things that can easily fail a visual test are any after market blow off or bypass valve, any aftermarket intake without a carb sticker.

second part of a smog test is all the monitors on the ecu must be ready and the car cant be throwing any check engine codes. All they do is plug into your obd port and make sure there are no codes and the monitors are ready.

I actually think passing smog is easier now since they dont dyno the car and they dont test the tail pipe emissions anymore. So catless cars can actually pass now as long as the ecu shows the monitors are ready.

My 500+whp full bolt on hybrid tubos runing e85 2007 335i passes fine. All i do in install the stock bypass valves and stock intake and turn on the o2 fix and i pass. I get away with my jb4 tune, flash tune, pure stage 2 turbos, rb inlets, black aluminum charge pipe, stage 2 lpfp, and aftermarket fuel lines.

[Slim415]

Originally Posted by Riceball777

big after market aluminum intercoolers as wells as big aluminum radiators do noy fall under any smog issues or regulations meaning they are all 100% legal.

There are 2 parts of passing a ca smog first is visuial

certain illegal thingg that you typically can get away with because they cant be seen or check and or they look stock are after market big hybrid turbos and most tunes should be fine. as long as you have an o2 fix you can get away with aftermarket catless downpipes 90% of the times since they are hard to see. The aftermarket aluminum black charge pipe as well as black silicone inlets have a high change of passing the visual.

Things that can easily fail a visual test are any after market blow off or bypass valve, any aftermarket intake without a carb sticker.

second part of a smog test is all the monitors on the ecu must be ready and the car cant be throwing any check engine codes. All they do is plug into your obd port and make sure there are no codes and the monitors are ready.

I actually think passing smog is easier now since they dont dyno the car and they dont test the tail pipe emissions anymore. So catless cars can actually pass now as long as the ecu shows the monitors are ready.

My 500+whp full bolt on hybrid tubos runing e85 2007 335i passes fine. All i do in install the stock bypass valves and stock intake and turn on the o2 fix and i pass. I get away with my jb4 tune, flash tune, pure stage 2 turbos, rb inlets, black aluminum charge pipe, stage 2 lpfp, and aftermarket fuel lines.

Thanks for the advise