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      05-12-2020, 11:42 AM   #1
Pohsib
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BMW 330i Flywheel and clutch type question

I have to replace my flywheel and clutch and am wondering if I should go with the dual mass flywheel and self adjusting clutch or the single mass (regular weight) flywheel and non-self adjusting clutch. I don't care about "genuine" BMW parts on this. In light of the cost being the same, is there a any compelling reason to go with the non-stock SM flywheel and clutch?

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      05-12-2020, 11:45 AM   #2
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The SM flywheel can be resurfaced, but you'll have gear chatter in neutral. Some people don't mind it. Kinda sounds a bit like a diesel. This is the best video out there that portrays it.

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      05-12-2020, 11:53 AM   #3
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I went with OEM (LuK) dual-mass flywheel and clutch. I was chasing down a drivetrain vibration, which turned out to be the 293,000-mile flywheel.

Research single-mass flywheels and you'll find reported vibration, but minor. A non-adjusting clutch seems like a maintenance PIA for a part that is not failure prone.

I'd say unless you are going with a reduced weight flywheel to gain performance, I see no reason to switch to single mass and introduce vibration into a very smooth system.
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      05-12-2020, 01:42 PM   #4
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I installed the Valeo single mass in my 530i wagon (N52). I wasn't going for a performance upgrade, I just hate the dual mass feel( And oh man is teh SMF so much more user friendly and silky smooth engagement to any DMF). I also own another N52 and 2 N54 cars(all manual) for reference

I actually found that the engine is substantially smoother after(DMF had a hole in it I found after pulling the trans off).

It took me a while to find any noise. You'll only notice it, in a garage with the radio off and no exhaust. I have to open my door and stick my head out while pressing in and out the clutch to actually tell any difference.

10/10 would recommend
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      05-12-2020, 02:01 PM   #5
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Just out of curiosity, is there something odd about the flywheel fitment of a 2006 330i? This single mass flywheel conversion kit mentions the 2006 325i and all those other 3.0 L N52 engines. However, it shows the 330i as not being a match.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-pa...it/835115~val/

Edit: I guess as long as it's the 240 mm flywheel it doesn't matter.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1359864

Last edited by Pohsib; 05-12-2020 at 02:18 PM..
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      05-12-2020, 02:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvan View Post
I installed the Valeo single mass in my 530i wagon (N52). I wasn't going for a performance upgrade, I just hate the dual mass feel( And oh man is teh SMF so much more user friendly and silky smooth engagement to any DMF). I also own another N52 and 2 N54 cars(all manual) for reference

I actually found that the engine is substantially smoother after(DMF had a hole in it I found after pulling the trans off).

It took me a while to find any noise. You'll only notice it, in a garage with the radio off and no exhaust. I have to open my door and stick my head out while pressing in and out the clutch to actually tell any difference.

10/10 would recommend
I've heard great things about the Valeo kit. They even advertise it as being as quiet as possible.
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      05-12-2020, 02:27 PM   #7
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Valeo Kit is 240mm. The clutch is the same for E90 N52 Xi cars and the 330i's. (rwd 325/328 have 228 clutch so it would actually be an upgrade for it).

I was actually worried about the noise/rattle but its nothing. Its really just some minor minor running/drivetrain noise that even the most OCD person would really have to look for while idling. I MIGHT have some minor gear decel noise between 1200-1500 rpm but its not loud enough to really pin point.

I would recommend using moly grease on all the pivots and the 850ci metal ball pin while you are in there just to prevent any future noise. I also went with the newer style (08+) stamped clutch fork and bearing.
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      05-12-2020, 02:27 PM   #8
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I think the transmission is different in the 325i, but I don't know if that has anything to do with anything... I did a LUK replacement when mine blew up.
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      05-13-2020, 08:48 AM   #9
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2006 BMW 325i  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pohsib View Post
In light of the cost being the same, is there a any compelling reason to go with the non-stock SM flywheel and clutch?

Thanks
I find it strange that an aftermarket non oem clutch kit to be similar priced as oem clutch kit. I purchased LuK DMFW and oem clutch kit from rock auto for $150 cheaper than the valeo kit. The valeo kit cost as much as 2 disa valves. I think there is something wrong with the pricing of e90 parts
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      05-13-2020, 12:24 PM   #10
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Looks like I can get OEM flywheel and DM flywheel for just under $600. Considering that I'm still trying to chase down my Rough idle and flapping while driving issue I don't want to risk the SM flywheel. Most of that apparent "money shift" has been sorted out. I think this should be the last thing.

I'm seeing a clutch install kit on ECS Tuning. anything from that or other odds and ends that I should consider purchasing? I downloaded Efthreeoh's DIY guide so I have that and a Bently Manual.
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      05-13-2020, 12:29 PM   #11
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Rock Auto actually has the Valeo single mass kit for 637. I still went with the stock set-up from Luk, but it was really tough.
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      10-29-2021, 10:11 AM   #12
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I recently installed the valeo 835115 kit and noticed that the clutch engagement point was pretty close to the floor.

I've read conflicting information online about where the engagement point is with this kit, some say high, some say low. I figure this comes down to what clutch fork and throw out bearing is being used (because there are two types), somehow the stack up is different.

I used the throw out bearing for the fork that I have (the single position one, per the instructions in the kit). I noticed when reinstalling the slave that it didn't need to be preloaded as much to get the nuts on as with the dual mass flywheel and as a result the clutch pedal didn't really do much until it got about half way to the floor (I bled the slave to confirm that this is not the issue).

Since I have access to a machine shop and since the piston rod on the slave just pops out, a spun up a rod that is 4mm longer. Since the tip isn't that hard plastic I put some grease on it when I reinstalled. Clutch engagement point feels good now, basically identical to how it was with the stock DMF. I've only driven 200km since the swap, so far clutch works great, much smoother and quieter than my failing DMF.

Just figured I should share this info in case it's useful for anyone.
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