[wikolipr]

Hello everyone. I'm looking for some help/guidance to a riddle of my Key Fob not working.

Background for context:
-2006 325xi touring (wagon) Non-Comfort access
-Involved in a rear-end collision. Driver's side Seat-belt tensioner and Positive Battery terminal deployed (only).
-Only light on the dash is Airbag Light CC-ID 97 (Multiple Restraint Fault). Haven't replaced the tensioner.
-Replaced Tailgate (door only). Glass was intact and kept it. (same wiring except rear hatch door lock).
-All fuses are fine.
-Car starts just fine and recognizes the key fob. Doesn't show a "low battery" on the dash for the key fob.

Issue:
Doors do not lock or unlock when using the key fob buttons. However, sometimes a slight noise or sound is heard from the driver side door when pressing the unlock button on the key fob. This is sporadic and only happens every so often and can't replicate it 100% of the time.

Central Locking works (locking and unlocking) using the button on the inside of the car and when using the physical key on the Driver's side door.

Home link (universal garage door opener) does not work meaning it appears that it doesn't have power at all. Compass works, though. I read somewhere in this forum that it had something to to with the key fob/locking/unlocking. That thread didn't provide a solution though.

I've checked the Diversity Antenna Module and general area with the wiring on the tail gate hatch tracing my work when I replaced the door and everything seems fine. I have strong radio signal and hearing the weird sound when pressing the button tells me that there is power going through the Diversity Antenna Module into the car although I still can't explain the no-power at the home link.

I've spent hours on TIS and noticed that the Rear View Mirror AND the Diversity Antenna Module goes into the CAS Module at Point 33.

My next step is to pull the door card off and try to see if the Driver's System Lock (S47) is not seized.

I don't want to start replacing modules and getting them coded if I don't have to.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Trying to take a break from this and have someone with a fresh set of eyes look at this issue.

Thanks!

[ctuna]

You might want to get some actual BMW diags if you don't have them.
Bimmergeeks.net Cable , Standard Tools downloads and Ista D (plus )
from there site.

[wikolipr]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You might want to get some actual BMW diags if you don't have them.
Bimmergeeks.net Cable , Standard Tools downloads and Ista D (plus )
from there site.

Only BMW Diagrams I have are on TIS which have been really helpful so far.

[ctuna]

No Diagnostics = almost blind troubleshooting.
For most things.
There are more keyfob threads on the general board than here.


for genral electrical info.
electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

The center console switch lock unlock button should exercise all locks .
How is your resting battery voltage?

[wikolipr]

Originally Posted by ctuna

No Diagnostics = almost blind troubleshooting.
For most things.
There are more keyfob threads on the general board than here.


for genral electrical info.
electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...GU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

The center console switch lock unlock button should exercise all locks .
How is your resting battery voltage?

Awesome. Thanks for that document. I'll definitely will be looking at that.

To answer your question about the center console switch: The center console switch lock does work to both lock and unlock all locks.

I just got back from getting supplies and put my ear against the drivers side door near the handle. While pressing the lock or unlock button on the key fob, I hear a clear distinct click. The whirling sound comes from, what I'm guessing is, the fuel pump priming maybe. It's definitely coming from under the car near the rear end of the gas tank.

Now. The only time I can replicate all this is only when the ENGINE START light on the push button turns off when I let it sit for about 20-30 seconds.

I'll be taking the drivers side door card off and inspect the lock assembly tomorrow.

On the second document you attached it says this:


Unlocking After an Accident
A locked central locking system is unlocked as soon as the CAS2 receives a crash mes- sage from the Multiple Restraint System 5 (MRS5).
On receiving the crash signal, the center-lock button and the remote control receiver are inhibited for the central locking functions. The center-lock button and the remote control receiver are enabled again only after the a change in terminal R OFF/terminal R ON.

This leads me to believe that I have to "change" Terminal R to either ON or OFF to get it to work again.

[ctuna]

Diagnostic Manuals Inpa/Ista D
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://carmod.ru/files/icom/istad_en.pdf
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do
primary links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573

[wikolipr]

Some updates:
-Got ahold of a new rear view mirror. Plugged it in and now the home-link works fine.
-Went to local auto parts store and tested the key fob for signal. It is sending signal just fine.
-Replaced the driver's seatbelt tensioner and rescanned. Turns out that I need to replace both rear seatbelt tensioners and SBT (Codes: 93B2, 93B5 and 93B6).

Given this, would my issue with the key fob be related to having these three active codes on the SRS?

[ctuna]

Want to learn something about keys

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=903551
read the mashman entry's starting at entry 13

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510527

[Soravia]

I have same issues. They worked fine until I washed the fobs in the washer, multiple times.

Replacing battery didn't do much good for too long.
Sometimes unlocks, sometimes locks, now they don't lock but sometimes unlocks.

But the hatch release works!??
I orders uses CA and non CA keys. I'll cut them up and replace the chips. I'll also get two new keys programmed by some guy in NY area

[wikolipr]

Originally Posted by Soravia

I have same issues. They worked fine until I washed the fobs in the washer, multiple times.

Replacing battery didn't do much good for too long.
Sometimes unlocks, sometimes locks, now they don't lock but sometimes unlocks.

But the hatch release works!??
I orders uses CA and non CA keys. I'll cut them up and replace the chips. I'll also get two new keys programmed by some guy in NY area

Well. I replaced the Positive Battery terminal and reset the code. Only left to do is replace the deployed rear seatbelt tensioners. I am praying that the key fob will work again. I think it still thinks it's in an accident and it disables the key fob. Maybe? Hope so. Will report back tomorrow since I'm getting the tensioners tomorrow.

[wikolipr]

Originally Posted by ctuna

No Diagnostics = almost blind troubleshooting.
For most things.
There are more keyfob threads on the general board than here.


for genral electrical info.
electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...GU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

The center console switch lock unlock button should exercise all locks .
How is your resting battery voltage?

So a little update. Replaced all deployed tensioners and battery cable. All SRS lights are now gone. No more lights on the dash.

I finally got the courage to setup INPA and got a ton of codes. I erased them and fired up the car (full cycle I guess). I didn't drove it just yet. I proceeded to read fault codes again and these are the only three that came back:

Still, Key fob doesn't work.

[wikolipr]

I got ISTA+ and I've been poking around to see how I can troubleshoot the key fob. Any tips on how to get to the bottom of the issue with ISTA?

[wikolipr]

Issue solved! The only key I had was simply bad (the fob part).


I sent out the CAS and got two new keys made since I only had that bad one. Plugged it back in and both keys work perfectly. I did learn a bit about troubleshooting the wagon side of the diversity antenna and looking for a broken wire. So pumped. Finally have a fully functioning key! Thanks again guys.