[greenberet123]

Recently my car (2008 E93 @ 80k miles - VCG and oil filter gasket replaced 2 years ago) complained about low oil (I also have a leaking oil pan). I put it on my agenda to change the oil, but let a week pass by without doing it.

A week later, when I start the car, there is massive vibration. I start driving it, and the vibration gets worse. I manage to drive it back to my parking spot. I almost thought it was doing to break down.

Plugged in my foxwell to look for codes. I had:

29FE/not present - DME: Oil Level
29D2/present - DME: Combustion misfires - cylinder 6
2DEB/not present DME: Power management, vehicle electrical system
2A99/not present - DME: Crankshaft - exhaust camshaft reference
A0B5/not present - CAS Fault: road speed signal

So I ordered the oil and the filter, a few days later, I started the car to make space for changing the oil, and the vibration had become even worse. I quickly got it to where I wanted and turned it off.

Then, I changed the oil and filter.

Now, when I start it, the oil level is fine, but there is still some vibration. Its not minimal, its very noticeable. Feels like im in an old truck. I am now able to drive it to places, but there is a consistent vibration, even when im in P.

I was hoping that it will just go away after driving for a bit, but I've drive 4 miles now and its still there.

Please help! Thanks!

[dmatre]

Swap coils 6 & 1, clear the codes, then take it for a drive. If misfire moves to #1 then replace the coil. Is misfire stays at #6 then swap plugs 1 & 6 and repeat. If misfire remains at #6 then swap the injectors. These are the three most common causes of misfires, and coils typically fail at 5 & 6 (likely due to higher temps back under the windshield/firewall).

Good luck!

[AngelFarelli]

Originally Posted by dmatre

Swap coils 6 & 1, clear the codes, then take it for a drive. If misfire moves to #1 then replace the coil. Is misfire stays at #6 then swap plugs 1 & 6 and repeat. If misfire remains at #6 then swap the injectors. These are the three most common causes of misfires, and coils typically fail at 5 & 6 (likely due to higher temps back under the windshield/firewall).

Good luck!

Originally Posted by dmatre

Swap coils 6 & 1, clear the codes, then take it for a drive. If misfire moves to #1 then replace the coil. Is misfire stays at #6 then swap plugs 1 & 6 and repeat. If misfire remains at #6 then swap the injectors. These are the three most common causes of misfires, and coils typically fail at 5 & 6 (likely due to higher temps back under the windshield/firewall).

Good luck!

You are exactly right on how to figure out which one is misfiring and there is no doubt that your issue is a faulty spark plug or ignition coil in cylinder 6 however you should just spend the extra money and replace them all. If you change one the other 5 will fail too and faster. The coils are expensive but you get a cheaper price when you buy the 6 pack which is why you might as well. As for the spark plugs you might as well change all 6 but if not at least take them all out and check to make sure they are at the right amount of gap for your engine and torqued down to the proper spec. Spend the extra money and you will end up getting great power and save gas due to efficiency. Also you will no longer have to worry about the issue again for another 100k miles. You will thank me later. You can find plenty of DIY videos on YouTube so don't bother taking it to the dealer. I am not a car mechanic and barely learned how to change my oil but this job was fairly easy and my car has been running amazing since I changed them all about 50k miles ago. The only tools you will need are a torque wrench , the socket tool made for the spark plug and the extender bit.

[dmatre]

Originally Posted by AngelFarelli

Do not listen to this advice. He is exactly right on how to figure out which one is misfiring and there is no doubt that your issue is a faulty spark plug or ignition coil in cylinder 6 however you should just spend the extra money and replace them all. If you change one the other 5 will fail too and faster. The coils are expensive but you get a cheaper price when you buy the 6 pack which is why you might as well. As for the spark plugs you might as well change all 6 but if not at least take them all out and check to make sure they are at the right amount of gap for your engine and torqued down to the proper spec. Spend the extra money and you will end up getting great power and save gas due to efficiency. Also you will no longer have to worry about the issue again for another 100k miles. You will thank me later. You can find plenty of DIY videos on YouTube so don't bother taking it to the dealer. I am not a car mechanic and barely learned how to change my oil but this job was fairly easy and my car has been running amazing since I changed them all about 50k miles ago. The only tools you will need are a torque wrench , the socket tool made for the spark plug and the extender bit.

I also replaced all 6 when one failed, but others don't feel that replacing a working coil/plug is a good investment. To each their own, but the troubleshooting process remains the same.

[AngelFarelli]

There are actually a lot of other threads about this subject a good one is https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1674584

I quote gbalthrop...
Rather than immediately replacing/swapping parts, I would first want to understand the following:
1) At WHAT engine conditions (Load, RPM, Temp) does the "misfire" occur, based upon WHEN SES light appears, and Freeze Frame Data related to that 29D1 code?
2) Clear Code and obtain that data several times, to determine pattern if any.
3) When you swapped plugs, did you MEASURE plug gaps? Original plug gap was .040", and with age that gap increases. At .055" or so, random misfires occur at higher RPM/Load.
4) Did you note the brand & part# of coils & plugs when you swapped? Did BOTH the coils & plugs appear to be original?
5) What year is your vehicle & what is its mileage?
6) Did you closely examine the coil Connectors to make sure the sockets weren't pushed out of place, and that the Connectors (particularly #5) sockets made proper contact with coils when properly seated and reassembled? It is more likely that there is an electrical/ contact issue with Coil Connector #5 than there is an injector fault, particularly if the "misfire" is intermittent. Of course there could also be a connector/ wiring issue with injector #5, and the injector itself is fine.
7) Did you examine the coil boots and plug wells for any sign of oil in the plug well?

[greenberet123]

Thanks for the awesome and quick replies.

I took dmatre 's advice and swapped the ignition coil 6 with 1, and cleared codes. Restarted the car, barely moved 2 inches reverse and the check engine light came back on.

I read the codes, and now, it says that cylinder 6 as well as cylinder 2 misfired. So i'm guessing that the injectors are fine.

I haven't tried swapping the plugs yet. Also, what are injectors and how do you swap injectors? Tried searching around but didn't find anything specific.

Can you guys recommend a good brand for spark plugs?

AngelFarelli - Yes, I'm open to changing all 6. How did you measure the gap? Should I buy a pair of special calipers? Also, did you change only the plugs or the injectors too? Do the injectors go bad too?

Thanks all! I love this forum!

[AngelFarelli]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Thanks for the awesome and quick replies.

I took dmatre 's advice and swapped the ignition coil 6 with 1, and cleared codes. Restarted the car, barely moved 2 inches reverse and the check engine light came back on.

I read the codes, and now, it says that cylinder 6 as well as cylinder 2 misfired. So i'm guessing that the injectors are fine.

I haven't tried swapping the plugs yet. Also, what are injectors and how do you swap injectors? Tried searching around but didn't find anything specific.

Can you guys recommend a good brand for spark plugs?

AngelFarelli - Yes, I'm open to changing all 6. How did you measure the gap? Should I buy a pair of special calipers? Also, did you change only the plugs or the injectors too? Do the injectors go bad too?

Thanks all! I love this forum!

Gap measure tool

[AngelFarelli]

The same magnetic spark plug socket tool I used to remove the spark plugs.

https://m.autozone.com/test-scan-and...8;gclsrc=aw.ds



The car is recommended to have double platinum spark plugs. The NGK laser were recommended first by autozone for 13.99 however I went with bocshe and they are fine. But you might want ngk laser if you plan on keeping the car that long. However check out this. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1546342

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by AngelFarelli

Gap measure tool

Those tools are fine for measuring but not adjusting the gap if needed. You're better off with the wire gauge gapeaauring tool, which also has little hooks built in for adjusting the gap without having to touch the electrode.

[greenberet123]

Ah, like a jackass, I swapped #1 with #5 instead of #6.

Fixed it today, and it is indeed the ignition coils that are the problem. The misfire moved to cylinder 1.

Should I replace just 1 or all 6. Im thinking all 6 because yesterday, randomly #2 also misfired, but I could not replicate the #2 misfire today. dmatre AngelFarelli

Also, which Ignition coils to buy?

Delphi 10571, Delphi 10328, or Bosch 0221504470 (I have a n51 SULEV engine, cannot use warranty coz I'm in Washington)

Thanks!

[AngelFarelli]

Definitely get the coil 6 pack because there 50 for one but 220 for 6 so your getting $80 off for the 6 pack and you won't have to worry about it for a while I got The duralast coil pack and Bosch spark plugs at autozone but if you want the best get the Bosch coil pack and ngk laser spark plugs either way works.

[dmatre]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Ah, like a jackass, I swapped #1 with #5 instead of #6.

Fixed it today, and it is indeed the ignition coils that are the problem. The misfire moved to cylinder 1.

Should I replace just 1 or all 6. Im thinking all 6 because yesterday, randomly #2 also misfired, but I could not replicate the #2 misfire today. dmatre AngelFarelli

Also, which Ignition coils to buy?

Delphi 10571, Delphi 10328, or Bosch 0221504470 (I have a n51 SULEV engine, cannot use warranty coz I'm in Washington)

Thanks!

I bought Delphi from FCP Euro. No real issues.

Be sure to fully seat connectors onto coils when replacing. I had a misfire after replacing all 6 coils, was sure that something else major was kaput - turned out coil #3 connector wasn't properly locked down, thus had an intermittent connection. Fixed that and all has been good for over a year.

Rule of thumb for N52 misfires:
75% are due to coils, almost always #5or #6
20% are due to plugs
5% are all other sources combined

[greenberet123]

dmatre Did you get Delphi 10571 or Delphi 10328 ?

[dmatre]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

dmatre Did you get Delphi 10571 or Delphi 10328 ?

I don't know the above numbers. From my Order Confirmation:

BMW Ignition Coil Kit (Set of 6) - GN1057112B1KT

Direct Link: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...12138616153kt1

[greenberet123]

Thanks! Thats 10571, the first 5 numbers

[greenberet123]

Thank you everyone. I replaced with Delphi coils and the car runs very smoothly.