[ClevelandBeemer]

Hey everyone,

So after 110,000 miles my stock electronic suspension is starting to go. I’m looking into Bilstein B16 Damptronics and am looking forward to the refreshed setup.

My question is since I’m replacing the major suspension components should I also consider refreshing the suspension bushings as well?

[FaRKle!]

At 110k I'd definitely replace the tension strut and control arm bushings if you haven't already.

[ClevelandBeemer]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

At 110k I'd definitely replace the tension strut and control arm bushings if you haven't already.

Thanks. Is the replacement of the bushing difficult? I do all of the maintenance on my cars however I’ve never replaced a bushing. I imagine I just need some type of press tool? Or is this something more specialized that wont be doable at home?

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by ClevelandBeemer

Thanks. Is the replacement of the bushing difficult? I do all of the maintenance on my cars however I’ve never replaced a bushing. I imagine I just need some type of press tool? Or is this something more specialized that wont be doable at home?

Replacing the "just" the bushing is difficult because you need a press. The ball joint press rental tool at most auto stores doesn't have the right size cups, but a 32mm deep socket will work to press out the LCA bushing. I have a set of KMAC pressing cups for doing the tension strut bushings. Most people just buy a whole new set of control arms with the new bushings installed. Swapping the control arms in/out is pretty easy, but you'll definitely want to get an alignment immediately after (the steering often gets pretty out of wack when changing LCAs).

You can see how to replace the LCA below.

Replacing the tension strut is very similar for your RWD car. Just undo the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle, undo the bolt holding the tension strut to the subframe and the arm comes right out.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

At 110k I'd definitely replace the tension strut and control arm bushings if you haven't already.

Same recommendation as suggested by FaRKle!. Worth replacing at the same time.

[ClevelandBeemer]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Replacing the "just" the bushing is difficult because you need a press. The ball joint press rental tool at most auto stores doesn't have the right size cups, but a 32mm deep socket will work to press out the LCA bushing. I have a set of KMAC pressing cups for doing the tension strut bushings. Most people just buy a whole new set of control arms with the new bushings installed. Swapping the control arms in/out is pretty easy, but you'll definitely want to get an alignment immediately after (the steering often gets pretty out of wack when changing LCAs).

You can see how to replace the LCA below.

Replacing the tension strut is very similar for your RWD car. Just undo the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle, undo the bolt holding the tension strut to the subframe and the arm comes right out.

Thank you very much. I’ll budget it into my suspension update.

[Machinebuilder]

I would recommend you having a lift as it can be tough getting components off unless you can get some leverage. My last 3 series got rusted and everything that should of taken 1 hour per video took me three hours. I could not get the ball joints out and had to buy control arms. Also you may find you want to replace more as you get into it. I realized my brakes needed replacement. It took me two full weekends as I had no lift, and am a hack mechanic. When I got it aligned it was totally out of alignment which made me wonder if I messed up somewhere.

[QUiKSR20]

My F30 ( 2013 328i RWD sport suspension ) just hit 105k miles and im also looking to do a suspension refresh....

The car is starting to feel a little floaty but no noises or real issues, The other day though after the car was sitting all weekend I noticed a quarter size drop of clear oily liquid below the car, Drivers side/front around the middle to back of the front tire area.. From reading online it sounds like it may have come from one of the bushings ( Control Arm or Tension Rod ). Does this sound about right? There's no other fluid related parts on that side, It had an oily consistency and was clear. It wasnt oil / trans fluid or coolant.

Can anyone think of any other parts to replace while im in there doing struts?

So far my list is ( may help OP as well ) :

• Struts x4
• Strut Mounts x4 + all the supporting hardware ( ie new dust boots / spring pads etc )
• Control Arm / Tension rods ( all 4 - 2 per side )

I was going to make my own post but my info maybe relevant as we are both around the same mileage on the same car.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by QUiKSR20

My F30 ( 2013 328i RWD sport suspension ) just hit 105k miles and im also looking to do a suspension refresh....

The car is starting to feel a little floaty but no noises or real issues, The other day though after the car was sitting all weekend I noticed a quarter size drop of clear oily liquid below the car, Drivers side/front around the middle to back of the front tire area.. From reading online it sounds like it may have come from one of the bushings ( Control Arm or Tension Rod ). Does this sound about right? There's no other fluid related parts on that side, It had an oily consistency and was clear. It wasnt oil / trans fluid or coolant.

Can anyone think of any other parts to replace while im in there doing struts?

So far my list is ( may help OP as well ) :

• Struts x4
• Strut Mounts x4 + all the supporting hardware ( ie new dust boots / spring pads etc )
• Control Arm / Tension rods ( all 4 - 2 per side )

I was going to make my own post but my info maybe relevant as we are both around the same mileage on the same car.

A floaty feeling comes from being underdamped rather than bushings. Only the tension strut bushing has fluid in it (the LCA bushing is just rubber), and it's located inboard near the front edge of the tire.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

A floaty feeling comes from being underdamped rather than bushings. Only the tension strut bushing has fluid in it (the LCA bushing is just rubber), and it's located inboard near the front edge of the tire.

Hey Farkle thanks for responding and I agree, Car has 104k miles on original S704a sport suspension ( ITS TIME HAHHA ) ...

Im doing the struts + all supporting parts ie strut mounts etc, The oil I assumed came from that fluid filled bushing like you described and I read on the forums...
I know when you replace the tension rods or control arms it should prob be done at the same time, esp at this mileage...

No reason to not do all 4 at 100k+ miles if im already in there, I was just thrown off at first like what is this small oil spot from... It was just a random spot and very small and clear. The bushing itself doesnt look that wet but I havent had the car on a lift to really give it a look but nothing else it could be and I read these have failed at as low at 65k miles.

Anything else you guys think you would check / look to replace at 100k suspension wise? Mechanically im good to go otherwise.