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      09-07-2019, 10:22 PM   #1
JWT4700
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Fault code help: IBS, water pump, alternator, etc

Hey all!
I’m hoping for some help with a bunch of fault codes. Carly is giving me a lot of them and I’ve had issues with this car four about 2 years now.
So first off; the codes
2E8B - IBS Signal
2E85 - coolant pump communication
2E81 - coolant pump speed deviation
2ECC - generator communication
2DED - power management
A559 - instrument cluster KL30g shutdown

The A559 code is new, I did notice my cluster keeps going back to factory setting as I keep the backlight brightness all the way up and it keeps resetting.
The 2DED is a new code as well, haven’t seen these until recently

Now the other codes have been present for a long time. Started a few weeks after hitting a deer, could be unrelated tho. Everything was shutting off, crazy warning lights etc, happened during very cold weather. I replaced the alternator as the light were always dimming. Later replaced the battery (mistaken got sold a lead acid not an age) I also replaced the IBS with an oem brand from pelican parts. Later replaced the alternator again thinking I had a bad regulator.

Engine are a serpentine belt... and died early this year SO I have a used engine with 50k miles on it. I had a new water pump, new thermostat, new starter put in on the new motor all oem parts. Still having issues! Any ideas? When the heater blower motor is on max speed I can hear it slowing down, as if the battery and/or alternator is not doing well. Maybe I still have multiple problems?

Had it at the dealer for unrelated service and the tech said I had some weird codes, the only thing he said was it’s something in the can bus line, and wouldn’t know anymore unless he looked further to diagnose it but wanted to check with me first (nice way of saying he wasn’t looking any deeper for free since the car was only in for a state inspection)
Been searching for a while and haven’t been able to figure it out
Any help is greatly appreciated!
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      09-07-2019, 10:49 PM   #2
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You’ve got an issue with the ibs system. Easiest way to diagnose this is to unplug one of the components and clear the faults and see if the rest of them go away.
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      09-09-2019, 03:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinetyEight740 View Post
You’ve got an issue with the ibs system. Easiest way to diagnose this is to unplug one of the components and clear the faults and see if the rest of them go away.
What should I unplug? Water pump? Alternator? I was under the impression you should unplug them and run it. Or do you mean unplug the different compnenets on the IBS? I check the couple connectors on the IBS and they all seem to be plugged in.
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      09-09-2019, 08:18 PM   #4
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Unplug one component on it’s line at a time, clear faults and see which remain. Do this until the on,y fault is the one you have unplugged currently
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      09-09-2019, 08:19 PM   #5
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I’ve had water pumps with coolant leaking into connector cause this more then once.
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      09-14-2019, 01:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinetyEight740 View Post
I’ve had water pumps with coolant leaking into connector cause this more then once.
What I don’t understand is everything is new, new engine (well used with 49k) very reputable shop put it in. At that time it had a new starter, new water pump, and I put a new IBS in it a few months prior. Would the alternator cause it? It’s new as well but it’s an aftermarket.
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      09-14-2019, 04:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWT4700 View Post
What I don’t understand is everything is new, new engine (well used with 49k) very reputable shop put it in. At that time it had a new starter, new water pump, and I put a new IBS in it a few months prior. Would the alternator cause it? It’s new as well but it’s an aftermarket.
Aftermarket parts might as well be failed parts as far as I’m concerned. Star doing what I golfing you and then report back.
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      09-14-2019, 07:05 PM   #8
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I had got those codes a few months ago first it was yellow battery light then the next it was the red battery while driving, pulled over turned the car off and the water pump went crazy went into protection mode. Thought i need a pump till i dug a little deeper, i had the alternator and battery checked. Alternator checked out fine but the battery said it needed charge. Charged the battery it turned out it was bad replaced it cleared codes never came back. But u should clear the codes first to see if they come back.
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      09-21-2019, 12:32 PM   #9
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Another odd thing I’ve noticed, the dash backlighting, I always have it set to the brightest setting, and every now and then it sets it self back to the factory default setting.
I’ll be messing with it this weekend. As far as unplugging each part, do you need to start and run it, or will it set codes with just the ignition on?
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      09-21-2019, 02:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWT4700 View Post
Another odd thing I’ve noticed, the dash backlighting, I always have it set to the brightest setting, and every now and then it sets it self back to the factory default setting.
I’ll be messing with it this weekend. As far as unplugging each part, do you need to start and run it, or will it set codes with just the ignition on?
Hav u tried testing the battery
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      09-21-2019, 04:01 PM   #11
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I have these same codes along with my battery voltage measuring a ridiculously high voltage number in the houndreds of thousands
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      09-23-2019, 06:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unrulyteach View Post
Hav u tried testing the battery
Yes it’s a new battery as well. But the one I put in was a store brand regular battery, not a bmw brand and not an agm
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      09-23-2019, 07:31 PM   #13
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so have you done any of the diagnostics suggested earlier, or just assuming that since things are new they don't suck?

and if you had an AGM battery and replaced it with a lead acid one, you need to tell the car that.
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      09-23-2019, 07:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWT4700 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by unrulyteach View Post
Hav u tried testing the battery
Yes it’s a new battery as well. But the one I put in was a store brand regular battery, not a bmw brand and not an agm
Shouldn't make a difference
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      09-26-2019, 06:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
so have you done any of the diagnostics suggested earlier, or just assuming that since things are new they don't suck?

and if you had an AGM battery and replaced it with a lead acid one, you need to tell the car that.

Yes when I replaced the battery I coded it.
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      07-22-2020, 02:56 PM   #16
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I've been trying to solve this problem again, haven't drove the car all winter due to the rare vacuum pump failure. In the mean time I have gotta ISTA, which is a million times better than the Carly app, which is how I first learned of these codes to begin with.
So I'm again trying to go thru one by one to see what the problem is.
One question before I get to what I'm seeing,
When checking the fault codes with ISTA, should the engine be running? Only ignition on?
I ask because when it's running I get one code, when it's off I'm getting 2 codes. Doesn't seem to be a fluke, I've cleared and tested about 8 times now.
Also with the alternator unplugged ISTA says communities with the alternator is ok... but its unplugged.... is ISTA only saying the communication line is ok, like there isn't a short somewhere, or is ISTA saying it can communicate with the alternator while it's unplugged?
Thanks
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      07-22-2020, 05:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWT4700 View Post
I've been trying to solve this problem again... In the mean time I have gotta ISTA... So I'm again trying to go thru one by one to see what the problem is. [Telling us what the Fault Codes saved in Fault Memory would be a good start. Saving ScreenPrints of the ISTA screens showing the fault information would be even BETTER. To do that follow the procedure described below]
One question before I get to what I'm seeing, When checking the fault codes with ISTA, should the engine be running? Only ignition on? I ask because when it's running I get one code, when it's off I'm getting 2 codes...
Also with the alternator unplugged ISTA says communities with the alternator is ok... but its unplugged.... is ISTA only saying the communication line is ok, like there isn't a short somewhere, or is ISTA saying it can communicate with the alternator while it's unplugged? Thanks
Fault Memory can be viewed with Ignition ON and Engine OFF. Any Fault Code saved in Fault Memory in ANY module, including the DME, should remain there until it is Cleared/ Deleted using a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software such as ISTA. The STATUS of the Fault Code, whether "Currently Present" or not may depend upon whether the engine is running or not, but the Fault Code should remain in memory even if the Engine is stopped, and the Fault is ONLY present when engine is running (such as Alternator Fault). The Alternator communication is related to Voltage Output, which ONLY is pertinent when motor running.

There is a LOT more to "Diagnostics" than simply reading Fault Codes. ISTA or INPA can also show you INPUTS to the Modules such as the DME in Real Time (Live Data such as Coolant Pump Speed, or Alternator Voltage Output). ISTA & INPA can ALSO allow you to do "Activations" of either of those components. Activations use the Software to "Over-ride" DME control. YOU tell the DME what speed to run the Coolant Pump, or what Voltage Output you want from the Alternator, and the Software shows you on the screen what the resulting Speed or Voltage is. This is a TEST of the DME OUTPUT or control circuit (BSD BUS in this case) to see if it is functioning properly.

So I would encourage you to use ISTA or INPA to do Activations of the Coolant Pump & Alternator, as described below, AFTER you report the Fault Codes found in the DME. Best to attach the entire ISTA/INPA screen with ALL the Fault Details & Freeze Frame Data, rather than just giving the Fault Code number.

1) If you are still experiencing issues with DME (Engine Control Module) CONTROL of the Coolant Pump and/or Alternator, they are BOTH controlled via the BSD BUS. The IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) and OZS (Oil Condition Sensor) are ALSO connected to that BSD BUS.

2) Here is the TIS wiring diagram for the BSD BUS on your 2009 328xi E90:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rnator/oYPEvM2

3) Here is the TIS "Functional Description" of the BSD BUS, explaining what components are "ON the BUS" and HOW it works generally:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/XCItyYH

4) INPA allows you to use "Activations" to "Over-ride" DME Control of components, such as the Alternator or the Coolant Pump. You can test Coolant Pump Speed by selecting a "Target" Speed and seeing if the Actual Pump Speed conforms to the selected Target Speed. Engine need NOT be running. With the Alternator, you can select a Target Voltage Output, and see what the Actual Voltage Output is (Engine must be running for that test of course ;-). I would assume ISTA allows you to do the SAME.
ANYONE able to describe HOW to do Alternator or Coolant Pump ACTIVATION in ISTA?

5) IF you can't figure out HOW to do that in ISTA, you should also have BMW Standard Tools installed, which includes INPA Diagnostic Software. I attach the two INPA Screens showing:
(A) Coolant Pump (Wasserpumpe) Control. This screen has the important German terms translated to English. It is showing Pump under DME Control with engine at idle, just for Observation purposes only. You can "Activate" the Pump with Ignition ON, Engine OFF, by selecting < F1 > to cause pump to run at 5% of max speed, < F2 > to run pump @ 50% of max speed, or < F3 > to run pump @ 95% of max speed. If you had a Fault Code in DME Fault Memory indicating a "Communication Fault" with the Coolant Pump, if that Fault were "currently present", you would NOT be able to control Pump Speed with Activations, unless the fault is intermittent. The "Path" or Menu selection sequence to view that Coolant Pump Activation Screen in INPA is DME > F6 Activations > F1 > Shft+F1 Coolant Pump (Wasserpumpe).

(B) Alternator (Generator) Control. This screen shows "< F4 > Alternator Voltage 13V" selected with engine running. Once again, this tests the BSD BUS Communication between the DME and the Alternator. If you can control the Alternator Output (Over-ride DME Control and specify a voltage output), then the BSD BUS connection between the DME & Alternator is OK. The "Path" or Menu Sequence in INPA to display the Alternator Control/ Activation screen is DME > F6 Activations > F2 > F4 Alternator Voltage (GeneratorSpannung).

If you are concerned about an "Alternator Communication" fault, I would check the following:
1) Make, Model & BMW Part# of Alternator installed. If NOT a Bosch 180 Amp Alternator, THAT may be the cause of the "Failure to Communicate."
2) Make sure that the BSD Connector (Violet wire) is connected at the REAR of the Alternator. That is the small Control wire, and NOT the LARGE Red Power/ Charging cable.
3) Check the Violet wire for continuity between the Alternator & DME Connector X60005/35 (Pin #35).
4) Check to see that the Violet wire going to the OZS is NOT damaged or contacting another wire at the OZS Connector, X62540, as THAT will cause not only failure of the OZS to operate properly, but also improper DME Communication with the Alternator.

You can use "PrintScreen" button (Shft+PrtSc) to save whatever is appearing on your Laptop screen in "Temporary Memory" and "Paste" (Ctrl+V) that image to Windows "Paint" (Accessory Photo Editor), and SaveAs a jpg file in folder of your choosing, which you can later look at for reference, OR attach here so ALL can see what you see on your screen. That is the process that was used in saving the attached INPA Screens. The two attached screens were "Resized" to 50% so as NOT to destroy the Margins of the post.

George
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      07-22-2020, 05:55 PM   #18
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Thank you George for the reply. I am getting different faults depending on if it's running or not. I'll upload the pics. I'm still learning with ISTA. I did how ever figure out how to do the water pump test, and it is getting activated. ISTA says to unplug each one, and when the code goes away it's that bsd user which is causing the fault.

Here is what I've done so far...
(Edit: having trouble uploading pics)
The procedure seems pretty straight forward, when you unplug the faulty component, all errors go away, but I can clear the codes, rescan it and get different codes...

new water pump, new IBS, new battery.
Alternator is new but it is a cheap store brand. The ibs IS bmw brand.
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      07-22-2020, 06:13 PM   #19
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[IMG][/IMG]
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Last edited by JWT4700; 07-22-2020 at 06:23 PM..
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      07-22-2020, 06:25 PM   #20
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      07-22-2020, 06:26 PM   #21
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More lol
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      07-22-2020, 06:31 PM   #22
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Final batch of pics.
Included a picture of the ibs, i unplugged the ibs itself, the ibs adapter lead and the adapter + lead which runs to the positive terminal box
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