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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Front main seal problem.



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      09-07-2019, 10:13 AM   #1
Colek
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Front main seal problem.

I went to replace the fromt main engine seal on the n54 engine. Used the puller
And all however when i went to pull it out in seems to have bent around the
Crankshaft and i cannot get it out. Any replied would help as this is my main form of transportation.... PLEASE HELP
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      09-07-2019, 10:48 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
I went to replace the fromt main engine seal on the n54 engine. Used the puller
And all however when i went to pull it out in seems to have bent around the
Crankshaft and i cannot get it out. Any replied would help as this is my main form of transportation.... PLEASE HELP
When you say puller, did you screw it in and the slowly turn the wrench on the end?
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      09-07-2019, 10:51 AM   #3
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When you say puller, did you screw it in and the slowly turn the wrench on the end?
Yes it was a $330 puller for bmw
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      09-07-2019, 10:53 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
When you say puller, did you screw it in and the slowly turn the wrench on the end?
When i went to pull the rest out after it got stuck it seems to have bent around on one side tryed pulling it out with a pair of needle nose pliers but that didnt get it so its just stuck in there now should i cut it and get it from the inside?
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      09-07-2019, 11:07 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
When you say puller, did you screw it in and the slowly turn the wrench on the end?
When i went to pull the rest out after it got stuck it seems to have bent around on one side tryed pulling it out with a pair of needle nose pliers but that didnt get it so its just stuck in there now should i cut it and get it from the inside?
Take a pic of it, I'm hoping you have pulled some of it out and have a lip to work with.

You have to be really carful not to scratch or score the inside of the crank seal fitting.
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      09-07-2019, 11:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
When you say puller, did you screw it in and the slowly turn the wrench on the end?
When i went to pull the rest out after it got stuck it seems to have bent around on one side tryed pulling it out with a pair of needle nose pliers but that didnt get it so its just stuck in there now should i cut it and get it from the inside?
Take a pic of it, I'm hoping you have pulled some of it out and have a lip to work with.

You have to be really carful not to scratch or score the inside of the crank seal fitting.
Insides not scratched but theres a metal cut on the front on the area that im getting resurfaced. However theres not lip on the actual seal to work with when i get home ill take a picture of whats left im trying to get this done for my friend
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      09-07-2019, 11:21 AM   #7
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Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
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      09-07-2019, 11:23 AM   #8
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Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
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      09-07-2019, 05:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
I would highly encourage you to seal with an OEM seal and Ultra Grey. Don't waste your time & money on the BMW Sealant. TRUST ME when I say that. I speak from experience.

I can go into detail as to why you shouldn't even consider the BMW sealant, but I digress.

Do this :

1) take a Q-tip and dip it is motor oil( run the Q-tip on the crank shaft inner ring. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT.

2) place the seal in the fitting, and line it up pertaining where the notches on the side are on the seal to the block's crease between the lower & upper portion of the block meet. They must line up perpendicularly. Start to slowly crank the seal in with tool, until you get to the notches. Stop

3) Fill the notches with Ultra Gray & run a bead of Ultra Grey around the entire outside of the seal. Let it set up for maybe 10 min.

4) slowly press the seal in with the tool, until its flush to the block.

5) run a bead on the inner & outer ring of Ultra Grey like you were caulking something in the house.

6) VERY IMPORTANT - do not start the engine until 24 hours have past. ULTRA Grey does not fully cure until 24 hours.

You can run the car with a 30 amp battery maintainer or higher without the crank pulley & belt in place.

I'd run the car for 20 min or so make sure the seal holds before you put it back together.

Also, you might want to seriously consider the new crank seal plate made out of Aluminum they sell for $150.00. Especially, if your motor mounts are over 100k old. Better than potentially ruining an engine.
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      09-07-2019, 05:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
I would highly encourage you to seal with an OEM seal and Ultra Grey. Don't waste your time & money on the BMW Sealant. TRUST ME when I say that. I speak from experience.

I can go into detail as to why you shouldn't even consider the BMW sealant, but I digress.

Do this :

1) take a Q-tip and dip it is motor oil( run the Q-tip on the crank shaft inner ring. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT.

2) place the seal in the fitting, and line it up pertaining where the notches on the side are on the seal to the block's crease between the lower & upper portion of the block meet. They must line up perpendicularly. Start to slowly crank the seal in with tool, until you get to the notches. Stop

3) Fill the notches with Ultra Gray & run a bead of Ultra Grey around the entire outside of the seal. Let it set up for maybe 10 min.

4) slowly press the seal in with the tool, until its flush to the block.

5) run a bead on the inner & outer ring of Ultra Grey like you were caulking something in the house.

6) VERY IMPORTANT - do not start the engine until 24 hours have past. ULTRA Grey does not fully cure until 24 hours.

You can run the car with a 30 amp battery maintainer or higher without the crank pulley & belt in place.

I'd run the car for 20 min or so make sure the seal holds before you put it back together.

Also, you might want to seriously consider the new crank seal plate made out of Aluminum they sell for $150.00. Especially, if your motor mounts are over 100k old. Better than potentially ruining an engine.
See the problem is i cant get the rest of the seal out theres just part of it still hooked in, ill be sure to do that when i get the new one in but i cant get the rest of the old seal out
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      09-07-2019, 08:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
I would highly encourage you to seal with an OEM seal and Ultra Grey. Don't waste your time & money on the BMW Sealant. TRUST ME when I say that. I speak from experience.

I can go into detail as to why you shouldn't even consider the BMW sealant, but I digress.

Do this :

1) take a Q-tip and dip it is motor oil( run the Q-tip on the crank shaft inner ring. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT.

2) place the seal in the fitting, and line it up pertaining where the notches on the side are on the seal to the block's crease between the lower & upper portion of the block meet. They must line up perpendicularly. Start to slowly crank the seal in with tool, until you get to the notches. Stop

3) Fill the notches with Ultra Gray & run a bead of Ultra Grey around the entire outside of the seal. Let it set up for maybe 10 min.

4) slowly press the seal in with the tool, until its flush to the block.

5) run a bead on the inner & outer ring of Ultra Grey like you were caulking something in the house.

6) VERY IMPORTANT - do not start the engine until 24 hours have past. ULTRA Grey does not fully cure until 24 hours.

You can run the car with a 30 amp battery maintainer or higher without the crank pulley & belt in place.

I'd run the car for 20 min or so make sure the seal holds before you put it back together.

Also, you might want to seriously consider the new crank seal plate made out of Aluminum they sell for $150.00. Especially, if your motor mounts are over 100k old. Better than potentially ruining an engine.
See the problem is i cant get the rest of the seal out theres just part of it still hooked in, ill be sure to do that when i get the new one in but i cant get the rest of the old seal out
Post a pic & I might be able to give you some ideas.
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      09-07-2019, 11:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
I would highly encourage you to seal with an OEM seal and Ultra Grey. Don't waste your time & money on the BMW Sealant. TRUST ME when I say that. I speak from experience.

I can go into detail as to why you shouldn't even consider the BMW sealant, but I digress.

Do this :

1) take a Q-tip and dip it is motor oil( run the Q-tip on the crank shaft inner ring. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT.

2) place the seal in the fitting, and line it up pertaining where the notches on the side are on the seal to the block's crease between the lower & upper portion of the block meet. They must line up perpendicularly. Start to slowly crank the seal in with tool, until you get to the notches. Stop

3) Fill the notches with Ultra Gray & run a bead of Ultra Grey around the entire outside of the seal. Let it set up for maybe 10 min.

4) slowly press the seal in with the tool, until its flush to the block.

5) run a bead on the inner & outer ring of Ultra Grey like you were caulking something in the house.

6) VERY IMPORTANT - do not start the engine until 24 hours have past. ULTRA Grey does not fully cure until 24 hours.

You can run the car with a 30 amp battery maintainer or higher without the crank pulley & belt in place.

I'd run the car for 20 min or so make sure the seal holds before you put it back together.

Also, you might want to seriously consider the new crank seal plate made out of Aluminum they sell for $150.00. Especially, if your motor mounts are over 100k old. Better than potentially ruining an engine.
See the problem is i cant get the rest of the seal out theres just part of it still hooked in, ill be sure to do that when i get the new one in but i cant get the rest of the old seal out
Post a pic & I might be able to give you some ideas.
My idea was to just drop the oil pan reach in and grab it out, plus id be able to replace the oil pan gasket and the oil.
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      09-07-2019, 11:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
I would highly encourage you to seal with an OEM seal and Ultra Grey. Don't waste your time & money on the BMW Sealant. TRUST ME when I say that. I speak from experience.

I can go into detail as to why you shouldn't even consider the BMW sealant, but I digress.

Do this :

1) take a Q-tip and dip it is motor oil( run the Q-tip on the crank shaft inner ring. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT.

2) place the seal in the fitting, and line it up pertaining where the notches on the side are on the seal to the block's crease between the lower & upper portion of the block meet. They must line up perpendicularly. Start to slowly crank the seal in with tool, until you get to the notches. Stop

3) Fill the notches with Ultra Gray & run a bead of Ultra Grey around the entire outside of the seal. Let it set up for maybe 10 min.

4) slowly press the seal in with the tool, until its flush to the block.

5) run a bead on the inner & outer ring of Ultra Grey like you were caulking something in the house.

6) VERY IMPORTANT - do not start the engine until 24 hours have past. ULTRA Grey does not fully cure until 24 hours.

You can run the car with a 30 amp battery maintainer or higher without the crank pulley & belt in place.

I'd run the car for 20 min or so make sure the seal holds before you put it back together.

Also, you might want to seriously consider the new crank seal plate made out of Aluminum they sell for $150.00. Especially, if your motor mounts are over 100k old. Better than potentially ruining an engine.
See the problem is i cant get the rest of the seal out theres just part of it still hooked in, ill be sure to do that when i get the new one in but i cant get the rest of the old seal out
Post a pic & I might be able to give you some ideas.
Thats the only picture i could get that was clear enough, you can see the seal bent over inside the engine. But you can see that the crankshaft is in good shape but the aluminum around it had a gash on the left side that needs to be filled or resurfaced.
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      09-08-2019, 07:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
I would highly encourage you to seal with an OEM seal and Ultra Grey. Don't waste your time & money on the BMW Sealant. TRUST ME when I say that. I speak from experience.

I can go into detail as to why you shouldn't even consider the BMW sealant, but I digress.

Do this :

1) take a Q-tip and dip it is motor oil( run the Q-tip on the crank shaft inner ring. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT.

2) place the seal in the fitting, and line it up pertaining where the notches on the side are on the seal to the block's crease between the lower & upper portion of the block meet. They must line up perpendicularly. Start to slowly crank the seal in with tool, until you get to the notches. Stop

3) Fill the notches with Ultra Gray & run a bead of Ultra Grey around the entire outside of the seal. Let it set up for maybe 10 min.

4) slowly press the seal in with the tool, until its flush to the block.

5) run a bead on the inner & outer ring of Ultra Grey like you were caulking something in the house.

6) VERY IMPORTANT - do not start the engine until 24 hours have past. ULTRA Grey does not fully cure until 24 hours.

You can run the car with a 30 amp battery maintainer or higher without the crank pulley & belt in place.

I'd run the car for 20 min or so make sure the seal holds before you put it back together.

Also, you might want to seriously consider the new crank seal plate made out of Aluminum they sell for $150.00. Especially, if your motor mounts are over 100k old. Better than potentially ruining an engine.
See the problem is i cant get the rest of the seal out theres just part of it still hooked in, ill be sure to do that when i get the new one in but i cant get the rest of the old seal out
Post a pic & I might be able to give you some ideas.
Thats the only picture i could get that was clear enough, you can see the seal bent over inside the engine. But you can see that the crankshaft is in good shape but the aluminum around it had a gash on the left side that needs to be filled or resurfaced.
I'd try and put the seal removal tool back in the hole, if and only if you think you can get the metal to flatten back out as a result of the tool bring inserted back in.

Otherwise, it looks like you might be able to grab on the metal part of the seal with a thin pair of locking pliers. Be careful not to break it off. Hopefully, you can get part of the seal out and then move to another part of the seal and pull on that.

If you can get the lip of the seal out, then you are in business.

If the lip is out, you can put the tool back in and then use a flat screw driver & a small hammer and bend the lip around the removal tool.
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      09-08-2019, 07:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Was it leaking? Pretty rare issue on these cars.
Yes, it was leaking kinda bad, only once an oil change was done it would leak to about half full then the leak would stop, it was leaking onto the belt and one time I actually had to push his belt back onto the pulley. Slipped a quarter ways off
I would highly encourage you to seal with an OEM seal and Ultra Grey. Don't waste your time & money on the BMW Sealant. TRUST ME when I say that. I speak from experience.

I can go into detail as to why you shouldn't even consider the BMW sealant, but I digress.

Do this :

1) take a Q-tip and dip it is motor oil( run the Q-tip on the crank shaft inner ring. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT.

2) place the seal in the fitting, and line it up pertaining where the notches on the side are on the seal to the block's crease between the lower & upper portion of the block meet. They must line up perpendicularly. Start to slowly crank the seal in with tool, until you get to the notches. Stop

3) Fill the notches with Ultra Gray & run a bead of Ultra Grey around the entire outside of the seal. Let it set up for maybe 10 min.

4) slowly press the seal in with the tool, until its flush to the block.

5) run a bead on the inner & outer ring of Ultra Grey like you were caulking something in the house.

6) VERY IMPORTANT - do not start the engine until 24 hours have past. ULTRA Grey does not fully cure until 24 hours.

You can run the car with a 30 amp battery maintainer or higher without the crank pulley & belt in place.

I'd run the car for 20 min or so make sure the seal holds before you put it back together.

Also, you might want to seriously consider the new crank seal plate made out of Aluminum they sell for $150.00. Especially, if your motor mounts are over 100k old. Better than potentially ruining an engine.
See the problem is i cant get the rest of the seal out theres just part of it still hooked in, ill be sure to do that when i get the new one in but i cant get the rest of the old seal out
Post a pic & I might be able to give you some ideas.
Thats the only picture i could get that was clear enough, you can see the seal bent over inside the engine. But you can see that the crankshaft is in good shape but the aluminum around it had a gash on the left side that needs to be filled or resurfaced.
I'd try and put the seal removal tool back in the hole, if and only if you think you can get the metal to flatten back out as a result of the tool bring inserted back in.

Otherwise, it looks like you might be able to grab on the metal part of the seal with a thin pair of locking pliers. Be careful not to break it off. Hopefully, you can get part of the seal out and then move to another part of the seal and pull on that.

If you can get the lip of the seal out, then you are in business.

If the lip is out, you can put the tool back in and then use a flat screw driver & a small hammer and bend the lip around the removal tool.
Thank you so much
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      09-08-2019, 02:30 PM   #16
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Did you get it out yet?
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      09-08-2019, 04:43 PM   #17
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Did you have the accessory belt failure where the belt
gets sucked into the Engine ruining the seal and possibly
getting pieces of belt in the Engine?
Or is this even the same thing?

broken belt
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1231881
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=23
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1477111
https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com/
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      09-08-2019, 05:02 PM   #18
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Did you get it out yet?
Yes i got it out today, just have to resurface where the seal was in a couple places, ill be using your ultra grey trick.
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      09-08-2019, 05:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Did you get it out yet?
Yes i got it out today, just have to resurface where the seal was in a couple places, ill be using your ultra grey trick.
Get this part

https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com

Better safe than sorry.
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      09-08-2019, 05:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Did you get it out yet?
Yes i got it out today, just have to resurface where the seal was in a couple places, ill be using your ultra grey trick.
Get this part

https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com

Better safe than sorry.
I will thank you!
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