[porsche959]

the little fucker is stuck. ive replaced steering racks, control arms, suspension, etc. love doing my own work. but rust is a bitch and i cant power tool my way of this one (unless yall have any suggestions).

question is, would you pay for a CDV delete? and whats it worth? $100?

[gT-BMW]

i think a shop would just charge an hours labor to do it. it literally took me 5 mins to do it. i just clamp down the rubber hose with a vise grip so no fluid came out. removed the cdv reconnected the hose and that was it. i didnt need re bleeding but some do it anyway.

[Efthreeoh]

I can't think of what would get stuck due to corrosion. IIRC, the CDV is plastic.

[hassmaschine]

I'd just leave it alone. It's not going to make any difference on your daily commute to Jack & the Box or whatever.

[6Inarowmakesitgo!]

Originally Posted by porsche959

the little fucker is stuck. ive replaced steering racks, control arms, suspension, etc. love doing my own work. but rust is a bitch and i cant power tool my way of this one (unless yall have any suggestions).

question is, would you pay for a CDV delete? and whats it worth? $100?

That valve is super infuriating for people who learned on older vehicles without one. I always removed them and the clutch is more manageable and predictable when trying to drive spiritedly.

I say get rid of it.

[Sayek]

I drove my E92 with CDV for 2 years before removing it after doing some research.


I found with the CDV if you drive at a slow pace the drive is smooth as the clutch drops slowly. But when you when you need quick gear change from 1st to 2nd there is a lot of clutch slip.

I guess you could live with the CDV fitted just don't try quick gear changes.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I'd just leave it alone. It's not going to make any difference on your daily commute to Jack & the Box or whatever.

I drive very aggressively when safe to do so. I have to be honest, I never noticed a real difference between the CDV and it being removed on me E90. I've had several BMWs without a CDV as standard equipment.

Same with run-flats. Never really noticed much of a difference switching to non-runflats.

[6Inarowmakesitgo!]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I drive very aggressively when safe to do so. I have to be honest, I never noticed a real difference between the CDV and it being removed on me E90. I've had several BMWs without a CDV as standard equipment.

Same with run-flats. Never really noticed much of a difference switching to non-runflats.

I found it made a world of a difference in older chassis variants. Then again, this is one of those choices where it comes down to personal preference.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by porsche959

the little fucker is stuck. ive replaced steering racks, control arms, suspension, etc. love doing my own work. but rust is a bitch and i cant power tool my way of this one (unless yall have any suggestions).

question is, would you pay for a CDV delete? and whats it worth? $100?

It is not worth it, because with some patience and penetration oil you can take it out for the time you would bring it to a specialist. But have a spare CDV at hand because even if you don't damage the one in the car, the o-ring will be damaged. Unless your plan was to remove the CDV completely (not just remove the restrictor inside) and connect the line directly without it.

Coming from experience mine was stuck too, 2006 build, guessing yours too, which has metal receiver part for the CDV. Later years everything is plastic there.

The problem is the metal receiver part corrodes and corrosion expands. This presses on the CDV section that is inside it, blocking it from removal. The corrosion inside surrounds the o-ring too making not want to come out. I had spent half an hour, first to free the rusted/corroded springy locking clip without breaking it and then trying to move the CDV back and forth, and rotate little buy little with penetrating oil sprays multiple times. Eventually it comes out. This was 3-4 years ago. Now it would have more rust, corrosion. Not sure if I would touch it But a specialist wouldn't do any better, if it is that bad they would call you back and tell, well we need to buy the replacement parts because this thing didn't come out without damage due to corrosion. If they can take it out without damage, you can too, just use 3P and I (patience, perseverance, penetrating oil, Impacts). Impacts here will be small taps here and there.

If you mess up the line to the slave cylinder, the line is sold as part, but you may need to replace the slave cylinder also, if you have early year. Not sure the slave cylinder in yours will work with the line available now, if you have 06 build. The slave cylinder on 06 is all metal, and later years is all plastic too.
I love it when CA, AZ, FL guys comments on something "well it took me 5 minutes..." when they never had to deal with rust frozen parts... :P

[Donutz]

I would pay $0. Took me all of 5 minutes to diy while I was in there doing other work.

[ctuna]

Payed my Indy 100 to put it in while doing other Service.
Takes the mush out of the peddle, feels better, much better.
Much like every other car I have ever owned which have
all been manuals.

[porsche959]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

It is not worth it, because with some patience and penetration oil you can take it out for the time you would bring it to a specialist. But have a spare CDV at hand because even if you don't damage the one in the car, the o-ring will be damaged. Unless your plan was to remove the CDV completely (not just remove the restrictor inside) and connect the line directly without it.

Coming from experience mine was stuck too, 2006 build, guessing yours too, which has metal receiver part for the CDV. Later years everything is plastic there.

The problem is the metal receiver part corrodes and corrosion expands. This presses on the CDV section that is inside it, blocking it from removal. The corrosion inside surrounds the o-ring too making not want to come out. I had spent half an hour, first to free the rusted/corroded springy locking clip without breaking it and then trying to move the CDV back and forth, and rotate little buy little with penetrating oil sprays multiple times. Eventually it comes out. This was 3-4 years ago. Now it would have more rust, corrosion. Not sure if I would touch it But a specialist wouldn't do any better, if it is that bad they would call you back and tell, well we need to buy the replacement parts because this thing didn't come out without damage due to corrosion. If they can take it out without damage, you can too, just use 3P and I (patience, perseverance, penetrating oil, Impacts). Impacts here will be small taps here and there.

If you mess up the line to the slave cylinder, the line is sold as part, but you may need to replace the slave cylinder also, if you have early year. Not sure the slave cylinder in yours will work with the line available now, if you have 06 build. The slave cylinder on 06 is all metal, and later years is all plastic too.
I love it when CA, AZ, FL guys comments on something "well it took me 5 minutes..." when they never had to deal with rust frozen parts... :P

spot on. if it took 5 mins, it would have been done. you described exactly when i went through. after 30 mins i just decided fuck it and gave up.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 6Inarowmakesitgo!

I found it made a world of a difference in older chassis variants. Then again, this is one of those choices where it comes down to personal preference.

It's not a preference, I just didn't feel any difference. I've been driving a manual trans for over 1M miles and most of that in BMWs. I just don't think there is a difference.

[porsche959]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

It's not a preference, I just didn't feel any difference. I've been driving a manual trans for over 1M miles and most of that in BMWs. I just don't think there is a difference.

Strange, as the majority of people seem to feel a difference.

I have noticed that the e90 has a notchy pedal feel, versus some of the other cars I’ve driven. BMS bump stop helped a lot, was hopping the Cdv delete would as well.

[ctuna]

Don't know about notchy pedals but Redline D4
got rid of my notchy 12 23 shift and generally made it
smoother .

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by porsche959

Strange, as the majority of people seem to feel a difference.

I have noticed that the e90 has a notchy pedal feel, versus some of the other cars I’ve driven. BMS bump stop helped a lot, was hopping the Cdv delete would as well.

When I removed mine, I noticed difference at the last point where you are almost done releasing the clutch pedal and expecting the clutch to fully grab. With CDV there was always some uncertainty, some delay (no pun intended)and some unexpected/wanted little bit of clutch slipping there, but it is split second difference. With CDV removed the point where clutch fully grabs become more distinct and well defined for me.
This was never an improvement at gear selection though.

[El Cheapo Loco]

TBH I didn't feel any difference after the removal. Not worth a dime IMO.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

It's not a preference, I just didn't feel any difference. I've been driving a manual trans for over 1M miles and most of that in BMWs. I just don't think there is a difference.

I agree. I didn't feel any difference either. But, then again, I don't just drop my clutch.

[Sayek]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

When I removed mine, I noticed difference at the last point where you are almost done releasing the clutch pedal and expecting the clutch to fully grab. With CDV there was always some uncertainty, some delay (no pun intended)and some unexpected/wanted little bit of clutch slipping there, but it is split second difference. With CDV removed the point where clutch fully grabs become more distinct and well defined for me.
This was never an improvement at gear selection though.

+ spot on

[tadaska]

It baffles me every time I see people say CDV delete makes no difference. It was like day and night for me.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by tadaska

It baffles me every time I see people say CDV delete makes no difference. It was like day and night for me.

I've had numerous manual transmission cars and 40 years of driving them. Five have been BMWs since the late 1980s. So that means I've driven cars and trucks with non self-adjusting, cable-operated clutches, hydraulic-operated clutches before a CDV was ever conceived by some engineer to keep leased cars from having burnt clutches. I drove my E90 probably 200,000 plus more mile before I pulled the CDV. My E90 clutch is properly bled, my Z4 had the CDV removed before I bought it at 22,000 miles 5 years ago.

My opinion is, any perceived difference is a placebo effect.

[hassmaschine]

My E30 basically has a race clutch in it, and it's not that much of a difference going between that and my 330i. Definitely too small of a difference for me to be bothered with crawling under my car instead of doing something else more worthwhile.