[FailingToBeSmart]

Hey guys! New to the forum, but not completely new to cars. Rebuilt a motor in my miata a few years back and now have the desire to swap a 335 drivetrain into my wagon. I was lucky enough to find unicorn wagon the next city over from me when I lived in California. Its a 2013 Montego Blue, 6mt, stripper, brown interior, and a sport. Ive got 93k on it now and need more power!

Ive read a few threads and have reached out to multiple people for some guidance before taking this idea and making it a reality. Ive been doing research for the last year or so on here and this forum has given me hope that it can be done and it really isnt that difficult so long as you have brain and patience.

I've decided to do an N54 instead of n55 for the sake of not dealing with wiring as the DMEs are in different locations. My goal is to make sure I have a matching MT donor vehicle that also doesnt have comfort access. This will make my life so much easier.

I put a call out on facebook to see if anyone new of a donor vehicle and I was forwarded to German Auto Werks in Spindale NC. Close to where I am in Charlotte. Thankfully they have a 335i mt with no comfort access. Motor is blown, but since they are a part out shop they have a good motor (120k miles that was tested) they are going to sell with the vehicle for my purpose. Along with a dme,cas, and key for the good motor.

When I go check out the motor and blown donor vehicle tomorrow I'm going do a leak down and attempt a compression test without a starter and check the cylinder walls with my bore scope just to make sure the motor has been taken car of. Finger crossed! This deal is too good to not pass up.

Mechanical Refresh Plans:

Plan to refresh the motor with essentially anything that bolts to it, injectors, water pump, hpfp, pulleys, ofhg, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main, plugs and coils, oil pump, clutch/flywheel, oil feed and return lines, and even wpc rod bearings for good measure while I'm in there...Any other suggestions?

Going to walnut blast with a harbor freight kit that another forum member posted. Link to video below...

Mods:

-Mfactory Diff
-Power Pack Stage 2 from ECS (jb4, highflow catted downpipes, charge pipe with bov)
-Silicone turbo inlets
-vargas turbos with wastegate upgrade
-Mtech rear bumper with 335i defuser

Not looking to make massive power. It's my daily, so I've got to keep it reasonable. Maybe 12-14 ibs of boost...

Engine DME plan:

Looks like its best to virginize the DME and match it with my CAS and keys. Ive already coded my car to be the way I want it and would like to keep it that way. I also dont want to risk changing the mileage on my cluster if the mileage on the DME is higher than whats on the cluster. This is honestly the part I'm worried about most as I'm just unsure of exactly how to do it. I'll figure it out, but I'll need a little help.

The purpose of me posting:

I want to share my journey to hopefully help others who may want to do this. But to also document for the future if I ever sell it down the line. Also helps to have people who actually know what they are doing on here to help me out of jams if I need it.

And if anyone wants an n52 drivetrain, let me know! Plan to part the donor out as well.

Emissions:

I contacted a local inspection shop and asked if something like this would okay and he told me so long as there is no check engine light and it passes visual I'm good. My concern was that since Im putting a motor (but same chassis) into a chassis that is newer than the motor that it wouldnt be legal. But seems as if this will be okay?

Timeline:

Plan to pick up motor and donor tomorrow if motor checks out. I'm really busy for the next couple months, so will take my time in removing the blown motor from the donor vehicle (to learn mostly) and refreshing the good motor with a goal of having everything laid out and ready to drop into the e91 in mid October. This way Im fully prepared so when I take my daily off the road, it's down for as little time as possible. I'll have to drive the "racecar" (RX8 autocross fun car) for the time the wagon is down. With that said, I hope to have the wagon down for no more than a week once I start on it.

Look forward to sharing my journey. If anyone has any advice to give, feel free!

[FailingToBeSmart]

The patient...

[mad1stgen]

CA vs non CA donor doesn't have any impact on what you're doing FYI. Good luck, it's a fun swap.

[rothwem]

I don't think that's the donor I'd start with, but good luck!

[rjaudi]

At the last Charlotte Cars and Coffee a couple weeks ago there were 2 N54 e91's. Might be good to check that out since they had done the swap.

[dakine_surf]

Subbed

[FailingToBeSmart]

Okay...so I picked up the donor, motor, dme/cas/keys, and a few extra bits that were missing on the donor car. Had to find a intercooler, which they had. 2k...

checked leak down on the motor and it was less than 3 percent leak on all 6 cylinders dry. Its sat for 6 months! So that's a good sign. Has some build up on the intake valves and had some oil in the intake manifold when I took it off. I suspect the turbos were going...But good thing is, I have vargas turbos on order with the upgraded waste gate.

Step 1 will be to remove the exhaust, diff, trans, axles, and exhaust from donor car.

Step 2 Once I get all the parts in I'll start on the motor.

Step 3 Reached out to RPM Motorsports to sort out my dme situation. Should be able to get something sorted...

Will post an update in probably a couple weeks. Gotta finish out college strong and have some work stuff I'll be busy with.

Already started on removing diff...gotta get a big wrench for that puppy. Anyone have a trick? Drive shaft isnt hooked to trans and theres no guibo (so cant put it in gear) Can I break the nut loose with just yanking the hand brake as hard as I can?

[IMG]undefined[/IMG]

[Serf27]

Are you talking about removing the drive shaft from the diff?

You can use the vise grip locking plies that have the chain on it to hold the driveshaft still.
$10 at harbor fright and works well.
https://www.harborfreight.com/lockin...amp-36813.html

They also sell the jumbo size wrench that fits the driveshaft nut. It does have be shaved down some though to make it thinner so it can fit in the small space.

[FailingToBeSmart]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Are you talking about removing the drive shaft from the diff?

You can use the vise grip locking plies that have the chain on it to hold the driveshaft still.
$10 at harbor fright and works well.
https://www.harborfreight.com/lockin...amp-36813.html

They also sell the jumbo size wrench that fits the driveshaft nut. It does have be shaved down some though to make it thinner so it can fit in the small space.

Exactly! Just what I needed. Wont slip if you put it on the drive shaft? Should I have a rag protecting the driveshaft?

[Serf27]

No, it won’t slip, just make sure the chain is on there tight. You won’t be able to tighten it tight enough to where it bends or creases the driveshaft.
I didn’t use a rag and I’m not sure if it will slip with a rag.
It may scratch it a bit. I can’t remember.
But nothing to the point where it damages it.

[FailingToBeSmart]

So got some stuff done yesterday. Pulled the blown motor and pulled the transmission off. Then started working on getting the motor undressed.

Was looking under the car and I know I'll have to relocate the charcoal canister to be able have the stock 335 exhaust. Obviously the trunk tray and heat shield are going to move with all of that as well from the donor to the patient. No big, only thing is, I have to pull the lines, and it looks like the vent line going to the engine bay is routed over one of the gas tanks. Any tips to getting access to this line?

The other thing is, I'd like to swap the 335 cluster as well. Does anyone know of someone that can virginize the cluster? Or an easy way to do this? I'm capable of programming it if I had the right equipment, but dont know of the correct programmer?

Update on the DME CAS and Key situation. Talked with RPM and they will be able to hook me up. When I'm ready, I'll send them the dme from the donor and then my cas and key from the 328 and they'll marry everything and change the cas to read as a 335. Boom! Plug n play...was worried about this step.

[Igor_M5]

Originally Posted by FailingToBeSmart

Was looking under the car and I know I'll have to relocate the charcoal canister to be able have the stock 335 exhaust. Obviously the trunk tray and heat shield are going to move with all of that as well from the donor to the patient. No big, only thing is, I have to pull the lines, and it looks like the vent line going to the engine bay is routed over one of the gas tanks. Any tips to getting access to this line?

Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the rear sub-frame and the gas tank to run the N54 vent pipe. At that point, would also be a good time to change the sub frame bushings or get the white-line bushing inserts.

Having the tank down will also be much easier to remove the LPFP lock ring since you'll have to swap that as well.

[FailingToBeSmart]

Originally Posted by Igor_M5

Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the rear sub-frame and the gas tank to run the N54 vent pipe. At that point, would also be a good time to change the sub frame bushings or get the white-line bushing inserts.

Having the tank down will also be much easier to remove the LPFP lock ring since you'll have to swap that as well.

I dont think you have to change the lpfp? Looking it up on ecs and it's the same lpfp across the two motors.

And copy that...sounds like fun... Ha! May try to find a way to just extend the current ones if it's too much of a pita. Will look into it!

[FailingToBeSmart]

So while doing the VG today I saw that the top timing chain rail guide "gaurd" broke off. I havent found the other peice yet. I'll look for it a little harder tomorrow when I pull the oil pan. But from what I can tell, it doesnt look like an intergal part of the timing chain assembly. Would I be fine in leaving it this way?

I attached a picture for you to see.

[IMG]undefined[/IMG]

[Tambohamilton]

Not entirely sure which part you mean, but if part of my timing gear was broken there's no way I'd leave it like that. I think you'd be asking for trouble, of the terminal variety.

[ctuna]

https://oxwerkzperformance.com/products.html

might be a good time to put in one of the above for bullet
proofing.

[nsjames]

if the plastic timing chain guide is broken you shuold probably repair it now rather than later.

IIRC there was an updated part revision that fixed it.

at least get the broken chunks out of the pan.

[FailingToBeSmart]

Originally Posted by nsjames

if the plastic timing chain guide is broken you shuold probably repair it now rather than later.

IIRC there was an updated part revision that fixed it.

at least get the broken chunks out of the pan.

Looks like there are no peaces in the oil pan...either they were pulverized or it was removed and it's been this was. Either way, should be changed.

edit: Doing the timing chain and guides while I'm at it... Thank you ecs for being so easy.

[FailingToBeSmart]

Little update guys.

Have all stuff to finish up the motor (timing chain and associated toa, rod bearings, oil pump, new oil and coolant lines for turbo, new radiator lines, and tools to do front and rear mains). Have done ofhg and installed water pump. Had to fix threads on one with a helicoil for the water pump. Easy job and the bolt torqued down to spec solid.

Been doing some more research on the exhaust side of things with the charcoil canister. Donor didn't come with a rear crash bar so had to get one on ebay from a 335 since the exhaust hangers are on the crash bar. Gonna extend harness for and extend tubes probably via male to male brass fittings using the addionational vent tubes from donor. Seen people hose clamp rubber tubing and I think that looks like crap. Will try and heat it up to prevent cracking. Fingers crossed.

Diff is all removed from donor and shipped back to ecs since I received the lsd.

Got a gauge cluster virginized from a 335 as well and Vin matched. So that's all set.

Basically all that's left is buttoning up the engine, flywheel, clutch, trans install. Then finish removing axles from donor and associated charcoil canister tubes and mounts for canister. Then send off my dme and e91 Cas and key to get programmed. Then I can get the donor off the lift and start on the e91. Plan is to have all things laid out and ready so I can have the wagon down for no longer than a week or two.

I decided to keep the engine stock and not put a JB4 on it. I want this to be reliable since it's my daily. Other good news is that I found Vin and all service records from the good motor. All oil changes done at dealer and all things were stock. So good to know the engine probably wasn't stressed a whole lot considering the waste gates are solid on old turbos. Feeling really prepared and confident about this whole process. Real oem has been helpful cross referencing engine bay layouts. Had to get a coie extra things like power steering pump mount. I will say, I regret not getting a donor that was running and driving. I've had to get more little things than I expected. The money I saved has been eaten up with these little parts. Either way, pros and cons of both deals. I'm ready to keep moving forward.

[Fritzer]

Subbed. Good luck, really happy to see more people doing this swap. The turbo wagon that should have been!!!!

[FailingToBeSmart]

Little update! So the engine is coming together. Replaced the timing chain and guide as well as the rod bearings. Went with wpc treated oem ones. Plasti gauged all the journals with the new bearings and all were with. 0015-.0025. Have a picture of what basically all the rod bearings looked like. There were a few small pits on them with little to no wear outside of that. Can anyone explain these pits and small scores?

And to note, that damn crank bolt is on their tiiiiggggghhhttt!!!!

Have since put everything back together on the engine including new vanos solenoids and boost solenoids. Flywheel is on and waiting on a clutch tool... The clutch tool that came with the clutch was the wrong one...it was a "male" tool vs a "female" tool since the pilot bearing is on the transmission.

The new stock turbos with upgraded wastegates are on as well and boy is it satisfying running new vacuum line...

Motor is cleeaannn and all freshened up. Did a double checked the leak down one more time and numbers are awesome. Less than 2 percent across all cylinders and all cylinders retain cross hatching and no scores after close inspection while the pan was off.

Can't wait to start digging into the wagon in a couple weeks. [IMG]undefined[/IMG]

[tlow98]

nice. those rod bearings are the opposite of S65 lyfe.