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      05-08-2019, 09:12 AM   #1
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NEW RELEASE: Dinan Rear Suspension Link Kit for the F90 M5

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Dinan Rear Suspension Link Kit For the BMW F90 M5

Have confidence in your F90 M5 when pushing the envelope without worry of erratic suspension play or sacrificing ride quality and comfort. Whether it be at the drag strip doing quarter mile runs or simply getting the jump off the line at a stop light the end result with Dinan's Rear Suspension Link Kit is a more stable and planted driving experience when pushing the car to its limits.

Part Number: D280-0020
Applications: 2018-19 F90 M5
Product Page(s) / Pricing: http://bit.ly/RSLK2-M5
Recommended Install Time: 3 Hours
Release Date: Available Now!

Description: Dinan’s high performance Rear Suspension Link Kit adds precision and predictability at the limit.

The stock rear toe link setup is built with rubber bushings and a curved forged alloy rod which can easily flex. During hard acceleration and braking this flex allows the rear wheels to have excessive toe change which ultimately causes the car to be unstable. Dinan stops the flex by replacing the rubber bushings with Teflon-lined machined steel rod ends that significantly reduce pliability while also swapping out the OEM curved bar with a stouter billet aluminum arm, thus adding stability. Like the rear toe links, the stock front trailing links also incorporate rubber bushings. Flex in these bushings allow the rear wheels to behave sloppily under heavy loads. Dinan adds precision by replacing these links with billet aluminum arms and precision ball joints just like the ones found in the Dinan front monoball kit.

Features/Benefits:
  • Replaces the stock rear toe link & rubber bushings with a precision machined black-anodized aluminum arm and racing-quality rod ends.
  • Rod-ends are Teflon-lined for quiet operation.
  • Rubber boots protect rod ends from environmental damage for long lasting performance and removes the need for constant cleaning.
  • Replaces the stock forward lower trailing link & rubber bushings with a precision machined black-anodized aluminum arm and precision ball joints.
  • Bearings are nylon-lined for quiet operation.
  • Dramatically improves vehicle stability during hard cornering.
  • Improves response by eliminating the deflection of the rubber bushings.

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Last edited by Dinan_Engineering; 05-09-2019 at 09:39 AM..
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      05-08-2019, 10:54 AM   #2
somer
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These still needed on the Competition cars? I know the rear toe links on the Comp cars are ball joints, not rubber. Not sure about the front trailing links though.
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      05-08-2019, 02:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somer View Post
These still needed on the Competition cars? I know the rear toe links on the Comp cars are ball joints, not rubber. Not sure about the front trailing links though.
You are correct the Competition Package cars do come with updated rear toe links with ball joints rather then the rubber ones but it does utilize a nearly identical cast aluminum bar which is beefed up on the Dinan kit. Dinan rear arms also utilize rod ends instead of ball joints so there is some minor advantages there. Given, that in itself isnt a huge difference unless you are really throwing the big car around.

The trailing links are the same on the base car as well as the CP however. The OE component there is a relatively thin piece of stamped metal that is about as rigid as a stick of melted butter. The Dinan variant there is substantially more stout and capable. The front trailing arms are what are heavily utilized during braking whereas the rear toe links are mainly used during cornering operations. While turning may be the "sexier" stat one can argue that both are equally as important when we are talking about a 4200+ pound vehicle with as much power as the F90 M5.
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      01-04-2022, 05:34 PM   #4
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I'm still waiting on the Dinan monoballs to ship since November (together with Dinan intake and inlet pipes), but installed the Dinan rear link kit today. Took me about 2 hours, and it really does make a difference on rear stability overall - even though the car is a Competition.

I no longer get the a sensation of losing grip or "wavering" in the rear, whether turning, accelerating, or braking. So initially, I felt I wasted money buying and installing this kit on a Competition car due to the rear toe links with ball joints coming from factory - but totally glad I did it, due to the very discernible difference.

Hope this feedback helps.
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      01-16-2022, 12:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambo1 View Post
I'm still waiting on the Dinan monoballs to ship since November (together with Dinan intake and inlet pipes), but installed the Dinan rear link kit today. Took me about 2 hours, and it really does make a difference on rear stability overall - even though the car is a Competition.

I no longer get the a sensation of losing grip or "wavering" in the rear, whether turning, accelerating, or braking. So initially, I felt I wasted money buying and installing this kit on a Competition car due to the rear toe links with ball joints coming from factory - but totally glad I did it, due to the very discernible difference.

Hope this feedback helps.
Are they out of stock? I'm planning on ordering both the fronts and rears as well.
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      12-19-2022, 04:04 PM   #6
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My Dinan rear link kit arrived today. Does anyone who has installed them have any advice? The instructions seem clear and the work looks easier than installing front monoballs or lowering springs but appearances can be deceiving.
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      12-19-2022, 07:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Does anyone who has installed them have any advice? The instructions seem clear and the work looks easier than installing front monoballs or lowering springs but appearances can be deceiving.
With your experience you shouldn’t have any surprises. One small thing that helped me was spraying silicone on the rubber boot of the toe links. When tightening the bolt it wants to twist the boot to the point it’s not covering the ball joint properly. Even in their instructions it’s somewhat distorted.
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      12-19-2022, 08:47 PM   #8
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Thanks! That makes sense and I would not want to pull the protective boot off since I drive year round.
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      12-19-2022, 11:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
With your experience you shouldn’t have any surprises. One small thing that helped me was spraying silicone on the rubber boot of the toe links. When tightening the bolt it wants to twist the boot to the point it’s not covering the ball joint properly. Even in their instructions it’s somewhat distorted.
Curious if it’s as noticeable as the monoballs. I doubt it despite what others have claimed but curious what you think.
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      12-20-2022, 06:44 AM   #10
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Probably not on a comp but my car is a base. I just swapped on winter wheels with new all seasons so I don’t expect to notice anything until next spring.
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      12-20-2022, 07:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverik259 View Post
Curious if it’s as noticeable as the monoballs. I doubt it despite what others have claimed but curious what you think.
I didn’t have much expectation of an improved feel, and on the street there wasn’t any. It was more of a durability, strength thing for me, but on the track I actually did feel more stability cornering and braking. If I had more skill to push the car to its limits, maybe it’d be even better? I’m starting from a base model and yes, the monoball change in front was much more evident even right away on the street.
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      12-20-2022, 08:37 AM   #12
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My main interest was a little bit of wiggle from the rear end. On a long enough and fast enough curve or S curve, I could feel the rear end flex over and bounce back before taking a set. Some of that could come from the front so I decided to tighten both ends. Dinan monoballs up front, comp motor mounts up front, H&R M5 springs, rear subframe bushing reinforcements, and now the Dinan rear toe kit. I am not a race car driver so it could be I don’t really understand what is going on and how to fix it.
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      12-20-2022, 09:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
My main interest was a little bit of wiggle from the rear end. On a long enough and fast enough curve or S curve, I could feel the rear end flex over and bounce back before taking a set. Some of that could come from the front so I decided to tighten both ends. Dinan monoballs up front, comp motor mounts up front, H&R M5 springs, rear subframe bushing reinforcements, and now the Dinan rear toe kit. I am not a race car driver so it could be I don’t really understand what is going on and how to fix it.
Lol oh boy I didn’t know you did the subframe bushings as well
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      12-21-2022, 07:14 AM   #14
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I did not change them — just added the Hard Race insert stiffeners that are really just aluminum caps with depressions that fill small voids at one end of the bushing. The comp use the same bushings and there were no aftermarket ones I could find. The only tricky part was that they go on top in the front SF bushings and on the bottom in the rear. The fronts were more work to get in place because you have to lower the subframe a bit.

Actually replacing the bushings would be a big job. I changed them on my E36 M3 and my E90 M3, as well as the diff bushings.

I’d like to see someone make stiffer swaybar bushings. The comps have them in front but apparently you can’t buy them separately. They are a specifically contoured shape so you can’t use standard aftermarket. But someone could mould them in poly.
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      12-28-2022, 11:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I did not change them — just added the Hard Race insert stiffeners that are really just aluminum caps with depressions that fill small voids at one end of the bushing. The comp use the same bushings and there were no aftermarket ones I could find. The only tricky part was that they go on top in the front SF bushings and on the bottom in the rear. The fronts were more work to get in place because you have to lower the subframe a bit.

Actually replacing the bushings would be a big job. I changed them on my E36 M3 and my E90 M3, as well as the diff bushings.

I’d like to see someone make stiffer swaybar bushings. The comps have them in front but apparently you can’t buy them separately. They are a specifically contoured shape so you can’t use standard aftermarket. But someone could mould them in poly.
I would have thought Dinan or Carbahn would have made a sway bar by now
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      12-28-2022, 11:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I did not change them — just added the Hard Race insert stiffeners that are really just aluminum caps with depressions that fill small voids at one end of the bushing. The comp use the same bushings and there were no aftermarket ones I could find. The only tricky part was that they go on top in the front SF bushings and on the bottom in the rear. The fronts were more work to get in place because you have to lower the subframe a bit.

Actually replacing the bushings would be a big job. I changed them on my E36 M3 and my E90 M3, as well as the diff bushings.

I’d like to see someone make stiffer swaybar bushings. The comps have them in front but apparently you can’t buy them separately. They are a specifically contoured shape so you can’t use standard aftermarket. But someone could mould them in poly.
How’d you find the difference in stiffness?
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      12-29-2022, 07:58 AM   #17
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I am not sure I can notice a difference from the subframe bushing reinforcement plates. Maybe a pro driver on a track driving a car with them and one without them back to back would notice.

Not a transformative mod, but there are no downsides other than cost and they will reduce movement under the extreme conditions that create movement. Maybe they will combine with the Dinan rear arm kit and next spring when I am back on summer wheels I will notice a change. Sometimes small stuff can add up and work together. Other times, it is mostly in one’s head — line the car running better after you wash and detail it.
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      12-31-2022, 09:39 AM   #18
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I installed the Dinan rear link kit yesterday morning. Way easier than installing lowering springs. To me the rear end feels more planted but maybe it is in my imagination. The protective rubber boots over the heim joints or unsealed bearings are cheap but maybe they will last. The boots on the M14 bolts at the wheel hub end of the rear arms began to twist as I torqued to 120 lbs so I carefully rotated the boot end with hose pliers a few times to straighten the twisted rubber.
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      12-31-2022, 09:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I installed the Dinan rear link kit yesterday morning. Way easier than installing lowering springs. To me the rear end feels more planted but maybe it is in my imagination. The protective rubber boots over the heim joints or unsealed bearings are cheap but maybe they will last. The boots on the M14 bolts at the wheel hub end of the rear arms began to twist as I torqued to 120 lbs so I carefully rotated the boot end with hose pliers a few times to straighten the twisted rubber.
Ya I’ve heard about this boot twist thing. You’d think they (dinan) would have mentioned it in the instructions etc.
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      01-01-2023, 08:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I installed the Dinan rear link kit yesterday morning. Way easier than installing lowering springs. To me the rear end feels more planted but maybe it is in my imagination. The protective rubber boots over the heim joints or unsealed bearings are cheap but maybe they will last. The boots on the M14 bolts at the wheel hub end of the rear arms began to twist as I torqued to 120 lbs so I carefully rotated the boot end with hose pliers a few times to straighten the twisted rubber.
Do you think the extra piece that comes with the Dinan vs CarBahn is needed?
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      01-01-2023, 10:14 PM   #21
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I do not have a comp so the 2 front arms may do more. The comp already has all ball joints in that location. The added stiffness of the solid aluminum may also help but I am not sure whether the difference is noticeable.
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      01-01-2023, 11:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I do not have a comp so the 2 front arms may do more. The comp already has all ball joints in that location. The added stiffness of the solid aluminum may also help but I am not sure whether the difference is noticeable.
I thought just the one was a ball joint on the comp. Didnt think all 3 of them were?
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