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      03-28-2019, 05:30 PM   #1
DreamerJoe
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do I need to recharge my A/C?

So my car recently, maybe 2 weeks ago, started blowing warm air instead of cold. it still blows warm/hot when wanted. I recall a foul smell coming from the A/C around the time it stopped working but only for a few minutes, don't know if that is a symptom of anything though. one last thing that may be related is I also recently had a GFB DV+ installed, and if their is air in the cooling system, would no cold A/C be a system? car runs perfectly fine, it is a 2013 335i. Thanks!
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      03-28-2019, 05:50 PM   #2
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Bad smell could be because you need to change the cabin filter.
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      03-28-2019, 05:56 PM   #3
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A/C systems are closed loop - if there is a need to recharge it is because there is a leak
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      03-28-2019, 06:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chenry View Post
A/C systems are closed loop - if there is a need to recharge it is because there is a leak
I've seen some recharge kits with sealant+UV dye, is that worth a shot? I'm hoping the sealant will take care of it, and if not I will at least know what I'm getting into before having to take it into a shop if it needs something done.
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      03-28-2019, 06:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerJoe View Post
I've seen some recharge kits with sealant+UV dye, is that worth a shot? I'm hoping the sealant will take care of it, and if not I will at least know what I'm getting into before having to take it into a shop if it needs something done.
I'm sorry I don't know enough on those items to give you meaningful advice - just wanted to try to help by letting you know if your a/c is low there is a leak, we all (well those of us over 35ish) grew up with having to recharge a/c on occasion as normal but that simply was because over time the systems leaked | shouldn't be the case anymore
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      03-28-2019, 06:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chenry View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerJoe View Post
I've seen some recharge kits with sealant+UV dye, is that worth a shot? I'm hoping the sealant will take care of it, and if not I will at least know what I'm getting into before having to take it into a shop if it needs something done.
I'm sorry I don't know enough on those items to give you meaningful advice - just wanted to try to help by letting you know if your a/c is low there is a leak, we all (well those of us over 35ish) grew up with having to recharge a/c on occasion as normal but that simply was because over time the systems leaked | shouldn't be the case anymore
ok thanks. I got some good info when I picked up the recharge kit, hopefully the amount of sealant in the kit is enough to fix the problem, especially if its a small o-ring leaking. if it blows cold for over a week, then the leak is small and a sealant kit should work, if it blows cold for less it's gonna need an actual fix cause the leak is large. thanjs again guys.
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      03-28-2019, 07:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerJoe View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chenry View Post
A/C systems are closed loop - if there is a need to recharge it is because there is a leak
I've seen some recharge kits with sealant+UV dye, is that worth a shot? I'm hoping the sealant will take care of it, and if not I will at least know what I'm getting into before having to take it into a shop if it needs something done.
Pay a mechanic to evacuate/fill/evaluate leak status. DIY you run risk of overfill/overpressure the system. mechanic has equipment capable to hold continuous vacuum for 30-60 minutes as one check for leakage; they will fill with spec'd volume of Freon & lube oil

Although all a/c systems are sealed/closed-loop, it's not uncommon over a period of several years that the system will leak a little, lose some refrigerant. You're into a hour shop labor to evac & fill. This may be all your car requires.

Leave this job to the pros.
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      03-28-2019, 07:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Pay a mechanic to evacuate/fill/evaluate leak status. DIY you run risk of overfill/overpressure the system. mechanic has equipment capable to hold continuous vacuum for 30-60 minutes as one check for leakage; they will fill with spec'd volume of Freon & lube oil
the recharge kit has a gauge right on it so I don't over pressurize it, and has oil. I will look up the recommended PSI though, because the range in green is "25-50", I imagine ~35psi should do it (I wouldn't do 50), but I will double check.
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      03-29-2019, 09:51 AM   #9
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It doesn't work with psi but with pounds of refrigerant. I don't think it's worth it to save a few bucks to diy your ac system.
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      03-29-2019, 10:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerJoe View Post
the recharge kit has a gauge right on it so I don't over pressurize it, and has oil. I will look up the recommended PSI though, because the range in green is "25-50", I imagine ~35psi should do it (I wouldn't do 50), but I will double check.
You’re assuming the gauge on the can is accurate. I read an article saying that those gauges tend to be wildly inaccurate. Remember it’s a one-time use throwaway gauge probably made by the cheapest bidder in China. Are you comfortable with the accuracy of a gauge like that with for your multi-thousand dollar BMW HVAC system that could suffer damage is over-pressurized?

Regardless, I’m curious to hear the results so do report back if you go ahead with the DIY. Your plan to stay on the low side of the range is a good one.
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      03-29-2019, 10:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerJoe View Post
So my car recently, maybe 2 weeks ago, started blowing warm air instead of cold. it still blows warm/hot when wanted. I recall a foul smell coming from the A/C around the time it stopped working but only for a few minutes, don't know if that is a symptom of anything though. one last thing that may be related is I also recently had a GFB DV+ installed, and if their is air in the cooling system, would no cold A/C be a system? car runs perfectly fine, it is a 2013 335i. Thanks!
I had a 2012 335i and the A/C also went out on me. Turned out I needed a new hose of some sort and they also replaced the radiator. Good thing it was certified pre-owned so the cost was covered. Hope yours isn't that serious!
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      03-29-2019, 10:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post

You’re assuming the gauge on the can is accurate. I read an article saying that those gauges tend to be wildly inaccurate. Remember it’s a one-time use throwaway gauge probably made by the cheapest bidder in China. Are you comfortable with the accuracy of a gauge like that with for your multi-thousand dollar BMW HVAC system that could suffer damage is over-pressurized?

Regardless, I’m curious to hear the results so do report back if you go ahead with the DIY. Your plan to stay on the low side of the range is a good one.
it's actually reusable gauge, it twists off the can and later if needed you can just buy the can, probly why it was more $$. funny thing though, yesterday I started the car and turned on A/C to full to begin the process, and the damn thing blew cold.. I'm going try it again when it's warm out and see if that plays a roll in the problem, 3 days in a row it was blowing warm so I stopped using it and now it wants to blow cold.. wierd..


Quote:
Originally Posted by F30ZHP View Post

I had a 2012 335i and the A/C also went out on me. Turned out I needed a new hose of some sort and they also replaced the radiator. Good thing it was certified pre-owned so the cost was covered. Hope yours isn't that serious!
I didn't buy CPO, but I did buy a used car warranty that covers everything except wear items, I'll have to check if this is covered, it should be. it being a car from the east coast and showing some signs of corrosion I imagine it's a washer/o-ring at one of the joints, so I'm hoping this simple fix will take care if it. I don't want to wait another week or 2 before I'm able to take it somewhere. but like I mentioned in previous post, it worked last night so I didn't have to try it yet.
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      03-29-2019, 01:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerJoe View Post
the recharge kit has a gauge right on it so I don't over pressurize it, and has oil. I will look up the recommended PSI though, because the range in green is "25-50", I imagine ~35psi should do it (I wouldn't do 50), but I will double check.
Best of luck. There is more to a/c than simply knowing the suction pressure via the gauge. I still feel you're better off leaving this work to a mechanic who has all the proper tools for the job.
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      03-30-2019, 11:34 AM   #14
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Not to be that guy, but I just don’t understand why you wouldn’t let a pro do this.

Last edited by paul e; 03-31-2019 at 05:44 PM..
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      03-30-2019, 11:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul e View Post
Not be that guy, but I just don’t understand why you wouldn’t let a pro do this.
What he said.
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      03-30-2019, 12:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Not be that guy, but I just don't understand why you wouldn't let a pro do this.
if it wasn't blowing at all I would but if it's something I can fix myself I will try. I'm not a mechanic, but I grew up working on cars and the internet is a god send for the DIY guy. funny thing is it started working again, so I can hold off for now. thanks again guys!
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