[Plainview]

Hey,

so my car has 46k miles on it and I got the SES light. I changed out all spark plugs and coils. The car ran perfect and there were no problems for 500 miles. Then one night on my way home from work I get the engine malfunction light with reduced power. Car is out of warranty and I am contemplating taking it to the dealership and possibly paying for a diagnostic fee if its something that not under warranty still like the charge pipe or HPFP? or is it worth buying the carly adapter for 80 dollars on amazon and then coughing up another 60 dollars a year for the carly app subscription? let me know what you guys think and what might be some good alternatives. TIA

[RocketSurgeon]

The Carly app is ok, but it doesn't have nearly the capability of ISTA+ PC based diagnostics. It's a lot more work to get ISTA+ up and running, but the only cost is an inexpensive cable.
Carly works 100% out of the box, but it's more expensive and has fewer diagnostic capabilities. It will read and clear codes very well, but it doesn't have test plans and calibration utilities like ISTA+.
I almost exclusively use ISTA+, though Carly is pretty cool. You also get some pretty cool coding capabilities with Carly.

[techietaichi]

I have the iCarly and there's no annual subscription fee that I know of. One time pymt and done. I love it, as it fits my needs. That said, everyone's different. Unlike our friend here, RocketSurgeon needs much more as he points out. The iCarly device can tell me enough that when I walk into any shop, I'm already armed with enough knowledge (I also research the code and beyond online) that there won't be any shenanigans. Aside from that, recoding my car was cool too, the Euro stuff just works for me. Good luck man.

[wiscoe90b]

Originally Posted by techietaichi

I have the iCarly and there's no annual subscription fee that I know of. One time pymt and done. I love it, as it fits my needs. That said, everyone's different. Unlike our friend here, RocketSurgeon needs much more as he points out. The iCarly device can tell me enough that when I walk into any shop, I'm already armed with enough knowledge (I also research the code and beyond online) that there won't be any shenanigans. Aside from that, recoding my car was cool too, the Euro stuff just works for me. Good luck man.

Had my Carly sitting for a while - when I went back to use it about a week ago it looks like things have changed and they want you to update to a new, pay/year subscription, version...

I refused the update and used the older version. Haven't had the time to look into it much, but it looks like they may force everyone to the new pay model. If that's the case my Carly is going in my drawer permanently.

[Nickco43]

Inpa is great but you have to be in IT to get it working. I have it running on a VM with my 18$ cable and it works great.

[Phyrexia]

Carly is yearly now, which is the primary reason I haven't purchased it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Plainview

Hey,

so my car has 46k miles on it and I got the SES light. I changed out all spark plugs and coils. The car ran perfect and there were no problems for 500 miles. Then one night on my way home from work I get the engine malfunction light with reduced power. Car is out of warranty and I am contemplating taking it to the dealership and possibly paying for a diagnostic fee if its something that not under warranty still like the charge pipe or HPFP? or is it worth buying the carly adapter for 80 dollars on amazon and then coughing up another 60 dollars a year for the carly app subscription? let me know what you guys think and what might be some good alternatives. TIA

If you code one battery, it has paid for itself. BMW dealership will charge you bare minimum $125.00 to code it for you, and it only takes 5-10 min.

[smass]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

The Carly app is ok, but it doesn't have nearly the capability of ISTA+ PC based diagnostics. It's a lot more work to get ISTA+ up and running, but the only cost is an inexpensive cable.
Carly works 100% out of the box, but it's more expensive and has fewer diagnostic capabilities. It will read and clear codes very well, but it doesn't have test plans and calibration utilities like ISTA+.
I almost exclusively use ISTA+, though Carly is pretty cool. You also get some pretty cool coding capabilities with Carly.

+1. Carly is a decent code reader. ISTA+ is much more. It reads the codes, allows you to click on them and read service manual like info, and then can sometimes even run a test routine on the component. Once the component is changed, it can reset the adaptions so the car can re-learn the correct settings.

[snedanator]

Yes if u purchased the Carly app before March then u have it for life...no subs and free updates. If u purchased after March then u will need to pay for a yearly sub. If I hadn't purchased it before March.. ..i would still pay for subs....cause it's worth it imo ☺. It's payed for itself many times over in the 3 years I've had it to check faults and code stuff in my E93 335i. It's well worth the money....

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

The Carly app is ok, but it doesn't have nearly the capability of ISTA+ PC based diagnostics. It's a lot more work to get ISTA+ up and running, but the only cost is an inexpensive cable.
Carly works 100% out of the box, but it's more expensive and has fewer diagnostic capabilities. It will read and clear codes very well, but it doesn't have test plans and calibration utilities like ISTA+.
I almost exclusively use ISTA+, though Carly is pretty cool. You also get some pretty cool coding capabilities with Carly.

all of this.

I bought carly before the subscritpion plan and was quite angry at all of the 5 and 10 dollar charges to make it actually useful. I would not buy it on the subscription plan.

ista is way more useful, the only advantage Carly has is portability. It's handy to have on my phone when traveling.

edit: also, not all of the coding options work unless you buy their overpriced adapter.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by nsjames

all of this.

I bought carly before the subscritpion plan and was quite angry at all of the 5 and 10 dollar charges to make it actually useful. I would not buy it on the subscription plan.

ista is way more useful, the only advantage Carly has is portability. It's handy to have on my phone when traveling.

This. Carly is okay, it's coding takes awhile. My adapter also seems to have connection issues with my phone but that may be an issue on my end. The thing I like about it is how portable it is and the parameters you can measure while driving. You can take it with you on long trips if the light comes on instead of needing a whole laptop.

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you code one battery, it has paid for itself. BMW dealership will charge you bare minimum $125.00 to code it for you, and it only takes 5-10 min.

That's insane man! 125$ to code your god damn battery, what a stupid feature to have in a car. The more I get to know about the car the more I just want it gone! There's too much electronic parts in this car that require all this special attention and tools..

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by OTO335i

That's insane man! 125$ to code your god damn battery, what a stupid feature to have in a car. The more I get to know about the car the more I just want it gone! There's too much electronic parts in this car that require all this special attention and tools..

or you could download ista and buy a $20 cable and do anything you want.


there are very specific reasons for the car to know the AH and age of the battery.

oh, and many newer cars will have that feature, regardless of brand. It's called progress. If you can't handle it maybe you need to go back to 80's TBI and smog equipment and give up all the features that make cars require big batteries and advanced charging strategies.

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by nsjames

or you could download ista and buy a $20 cable and do anything you want.


there are very specific reasons for the car to know the AH and age of the battery.

oh, and many newer cars will have that feature, regardless of brand. It's called progress. If you can't handle it maybe you need to go back to 80's TBI and smog equipment and give up all the features that make cars require big batteries and advanced charging strategies.

Yeah it's going to be a really dumb feature for all cars to have if that's the case, I don't need to know the damn age of the battery, once it dies you change it, simple.. (well it used to be simple) and I wouldn't call it progress, it's more of a money grab. 90's would be better actually, port injection and no need for advanced charging... What do we need advanced charging for? all the stupid sensors and computers they put in cars now is crazy. What would be all these features that require this special stuff? cars in the 90's had power everything, sunroofs, lights, everything you need and they didn't need huge batteries to be coded in at a retarded cost.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by OTO335i

Yeah it's going to be a really dumb feature for all cars to have, I don't need to know the damn age of the battery, once it dies you change it, simple.. (well it used to be simple) and I wouldn't call it progress, it's more of a money grab. 90's would be better actually, port injection and no need for advanced charging... What do we need advanced charging for? all the stupid sensors and computers they put in cars now is crazy. What would be all these features that require this special stuff? cars in the 90's had power everything, sunroofs, lights, everything you need and they didn't need huge batteries to be coded in at a retarded cost.

oh I don't know, maybe to extend the life of the battery significantly? and the only retarded thing here is you if you think you need to pay someone to register a battery.

I already told you the solution.

If that's not something you're capable of, pay someone or sell the car.
bitching about it to a bunch of people on the internet (mostly people that like their car )doesn't do anything, I assure you that BMW and all of the other car manufacturers don't care about your opinion.

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by nsjames

oh I don't know, maybe to extend the life of the battery significantly? and the only retarded thing here is you if you think you need to pay someone to register a battery.

I already told you the solution.

If that's not something you're capable of, pay someone or sell the car.
bitching about it to a bunch of people on the internet (mostly people that like their car )doesn't do anything, I assure you that BMW and all of the other car manufacturers don't care about your opinion.

Extend it for how long? I've had 9+ year old batteries not give me any issues. I would never pay someone to do the work on my car, don't know where you got that info from. I do all my own work, I'm just stating that it is retarded to pay that amount just to swap a battery in (for those who do pay)

I like my car but then again it's not like how cars where made before, they used to be made to last.. I'm well aware that BMW or other car manufacturers do not care about my opinion, why would they, I'm just another person with his own opinion on a matter, just like they don't care about your opinion even though you'd agree with them.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by nsjames

oh, and many newer cars will have that feature, regardless of brand.

As complicated as BMWs are, at least we have the ability to code things with tools like Carly and INPA. Many brands do not have this level of aftermarket support. My father has a 2013 Grand Cherokee. Recently the rear locking differential motor went out, which is a $500 part. It also fried the control module in the process, which is around a $200 part. The new module needs to be coded in order for the replacement parts to work. Only the dealer or someone with a scan tool that has similar capabilities can do it and that labor alone cost $200. I'm sure it probably took 5-10 minutes to do.

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

As complicated as BMWs are, at least we have the ability to code things with tools like Carly and INPA. Many brands do not have this level of aftermarket support. My father has a 2013 Grand Cherokee. Recently the rear locking differential motor went out, which is a $500 part. It also fried the control module in the process, which is around a $200 part. The new module needs to be coded in order for the replacement parts to work. Only the dealer or someone with a scan tool that has similar capabilities can do it and that labor alone cost $200. I'm sure it probably took 5-10 minutes to do.

That's surprising to hear, so if he were to just replace the rear locking differential motor and module himself he'd still have problems huh? That sucks man, I'm going to have to stick to older cars since I like working on my own car and being able to swap parts over without having to recode it for it to work properly again lol..

I wonder what kind of coding they have to do, the computer should recognize the new part and notice that it's a proper functioning part no?

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by OTO335i

That's surprising to hear, so if he were to just replace the rear locking differential motor and module himself he'd still have problems huh? That sucks man, I'm going to have to stick to older cars since I like working on my own car and being able to swap parts over without having to recode it for it to work properly again lol..

I wonder what kind of coding they have to do, the computer should recognize the new part and notice that it's a proper functioning part no?

Pretty much. I had debated replacing the motor and module for him, since the motor is bolted right to the side of the differential and fairly easy to access, but members of the Jeep community commented that the errors often came back soon after or did not clear. To be fair, this is the first issue that vehicle has had at almost 120k miles, but the coding bullshit seems like an effort to prevent people from going anywhere but the dealership. I was even more pleased to find that the dealership left a bunch of bolts loose after doing the repair.

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

Pretty much. I had debated replacing the motor and module for him, since the motor is bolted right to the side of the differential and fairly easy to access, but members of the Jeep community commented that the errors often came back soon after or did not clear. To be fair, this is the first issue that vehicle has had at almost 120k miles, but the coding bullshit seems like an effort to prevent people from going anywhere but the dealership. I was even more pleased to find that the dealership left a bunch of bolts loose after doing the repair.

Damn! What a mess!! I don't like where this world is going in terms of automotive aspect for fixing them up.. one day you'll have to code all the parts in lol it'll be such an unpleasant experience and no one will want to drive anymore lol

[techietaichi]

Ahh damn, I bought mine like 2-3 years ago. Well, that sucks, now you have to subscribe? Sad to hear.