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      06-02-2018, 11:15 AM   #1
vam0s
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N54 30FF after everything has been fixed

Where do I start... I have problem with building boost.
New vacuum lines (every single one) also tested to be working.
New boost solenoids
New turbos
New intercooler
New chargepipe
New bov
New valve cover and gasket
Every gasket is new regarding boost
New rb pcv valve.
Car can peak 18psi but drops towards the end radically to 13psi even when target is 18psi.

Im just so tired of this problem.. Help.
Theres one log I just took:
21https://datazap.me/u/vam0s/log-15279...og=0&data=3-21
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      06-02-2018, 11:30 AM   #2
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Change your map sensor
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      06-02-2018, 11:34 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
Where do I start... I have problem with building boost.
New vacuum lines (every single one) also tested to be working.
New boost solenoids
New turbos
New intercooler
New chargepipe
New bov
New valve cover and gasket
Every gasket is new regarding boost
New rb pcv valve.
Car can peak 18psi but drops towards the end radically to 13psi even when target is 18psi.

Im just so tired of this problem.. Help.
Theres one log I just took:
21https://datazap.me/u/vam0s/log-1527953381?log=0&data=3-21
Have you been over every connection and double checked them ?
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      06-02-2018, 12:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Have you been over every connection and double checked them ?
Yes, I re tested everything after changing everything to brand new.
Also map sensor is new.
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      06-02-2018, 12:25 PM   #5
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as far as i know no tune keeps 18 psi all the way to red line unless you have aftermarket turbos, they all taper off to 12-13 close to red line

and your wdgc is already at 100% at 4900rpm ...boost leak somewhere ?? turbos are working OVERTIMEEEE at 100%
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      06-03-2018, 05:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanker604 View Post
as far as i know no tune keeps 18 psi all the way to red line unless you have aftermarket turbos, they all taper off to 12-13 close to red line

and your wdgc is already at 100% at 4900rpm ...boost leak somewhere ?? turbos are working OVERTIMEEEE at 100%
Im aware theres a boost leak thats what im trying to figure out..
Here's a log with mhd E40 map https://datazap.me/u/vam0s/log-15280...=0&data=3-5-21
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      06-04-2018, 10:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shanker604 View Post
as far as i know no tune keeps 18 psi all the way to red line unless you have aftermarket turbos, they all taper off to 12-13 close to red line

and your wdgc is already at 100% at 4900rpm ...boost leak somewhere ?? turbos are working OVERTIMEEEE at 100%
Im aware theres a boost leak thats what im trying to figure out..
Here's a log with mhd E40 map https://datazap.me/u/vam0s/log-1528065231?log=0&data=3-5-21
Did you check the connections to the inlets? If you still have OEM, the connection is pretty flimsy. It literally just sits in there with a gasket. There's no banjo type clamp there to secure them to the turbo.
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      06-04-2018, 04:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Did you check the connections to the inlets? If you still have OEM, the connection is pretty flimsy. It literally just sits in there with a gasket. There's no banjo type clamp there to secure them to the turbo.
How does inlets affect boost leak? I tried to pressurize the car but the rear inlet started leaking at the end even when i tried to keep it with hand.
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      06-04-2018, 05:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Did you check the connections to the inlets? If you still have OEM, the connection is pretty flimsy. It literally just sits in there with a gasket. There's no banjo type clamp there to secure them to the turbo.
How does inlets affect boost leak? I tried to pressurize the car but the rear inlet started leaking at the end even when i tried to keep it with hand.
That's air going into the turbo. If the connection isn't solid, that's a leak in the amount of pressure that can be made.
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      06-04-2018, 09:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
That's air going into the turbo. If the connection isn't solid, that's a leak in the amount of pressure that can be made.
That doesn't make any sense. Inlets have absolutely zero impact on 30FF issues.
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      06-05-2018, 03:18 PM   #11
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One thing ive noticed is that i get quite a lot of Oil in the charge pipe but where does it Come from? I also tried wastegates 100% shut mechaniclly and still 30ff
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      06-05-2018, 03:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
One thing ive noticed is that i get quite a lot of Oil in the charge pipe but where does it Come from? I also tried wastegates 100% shut mechaniclly and still 30ff
Oil in the charge pipe is coming from your turbos. A little bit is normal. A lot means leaky turbo seals. If it's not the wastegates then it must be a leak somewhere else. How did you mechanically shut the wastegates and keep them shut? With a JB4? That doesn't necessarily mean they are completely shut and sealed. You might have worn wastegates that don't seal or faulty boost solenoids or actuators that don't close the wastegates. Have you used a hand pump to check the wastegate and actuator function?
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      06-05-2018, 03:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srey View Post
Oil in the charge pipe is coming from your turbos. A little bit is normal. A lot means leaky turbo seals. If it's not the wastegates then it must be a leak somewhere else. How did you mechanically shut the wastegates and keep them shut? With a JB4? That doesn't necessarily mean they are completely shut and sealed. You might have worn wastegates that don't seal or faulty boost solenoids or actuators that don't close the wastegates. Have you used a hand pump to check the wastegate and actuator function?
I have new turbos. Also I double checked that wastegates have been adjusted/installed right. I used hand pump to mechaniclly shut the wastegates. Also solenoids are brand new and tested.
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      06-08-2018, 02:50 AM   #14
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Got the car working.. Car had sucked dci so deep it couldnt get Any air.. But now after driving 500km turbos are broken AGAIN!
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      06-08-2018, 07:27 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
One thing ive noticed is that i get quite a lot of Oil in the charge pipe but where does it Come from? I also tried wastegates 100% shut mechaniclly and still 30ff
Did you check to see if the turbo actuators are holding pressure?

The oil in the charge pipe is from the PCV system. The only way to reduce or eliminate oil on the intake system is to get a Rob Beck PCV valve and a catch can.
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      06-08-2018, 06:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Did you check to see if the turbo actuators are holding pressure?

The oil in the charge pipe is from the PCV system. The only way to reduce or eliminate oil on the intake system is to get a Rob Beck PCV valve and a catch can.
Yes I did check them even tho I have new turbos. I also have rb pcv and catch can. Rear turbo broke again.. Axle moves alot..
Oil lines for turbo were clean. Any ideas why rear turbo keeps breaking?

Sick of this.. Sucks even more that there Isnt Any local People with real knowledge about these cars.
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      06-08-2018, 06:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Did you check to see if the turbo actuators are holding pressure?

The oil in the charge pipe is from the PCV system. The only way to reduce or eliminate oil on the intake system is to get a Rob Beck PCV valve and a catch can.
Yes I did check them even tho I have new turbos. I also have rb pcv and catch can. Rear turbo broke again.. Axle moves alot..
Oil lines for turbo were clean. Any ideas why rear turbo keeps breaking?

Sick of this.. Sucks even more that there Isnt Any local People with real knowledge about these cars.
Which turbos did you get ?
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      06-08-2018, 07:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
Yes I did check them even tho I have new turbos. I also have rb pcv and catch can. Rear turbo broke again.. Axle moves alot..
Oil lines for turbo were clean. Any ideas why rear turbo keeps breaking?

Sick of this.. Sucks even more that there Isnt Any local People with real knowledge about these cars.
If you choked off your turbos with poorly installed DCIs you likely pulled a lot of oil thru the seals from the resulting vacuum.

What are the turbos you bought? OEM or something else?

Last edited by halik008; 06-08-2018 at 07:40 PM..
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      06-08-2018, 07:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halik008 View Post
If you choked off your turbos with poorly installed turbos you likely pulled a lot of oil thru the seals from the resulting vacuum.

What are the turbos you bought? OEM or something else?
I concur. Could have killed the turbo(s) easily if they were trying to do their job with blocked off inlets/air supply.
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      06-09-2018, 01:50 AM   #20
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I got oem turbos. When the dci's had been sucked in and I was getting 30ff
I probably drove about 10k till I suddenly lost all boost and then got a huge
whine from turbo + smoke. Now I drove 200km with dci still sucked in then fixed it and another 300km and the turbo is now gone.

Turbo is doing now same as Last time, blowing huge amount of Oil to the exhaust side thus making a huge smoke..
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      06-09-2018, 08:35 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vam0s View Post
I got oem turbos. When the dci's had been sucked in and I was getting 30ff
I probably drove about 10k till I suddenly lost all boost and then got a huge
whine from turbo + smoke. Now I drove 200km with dci still sucked in then fixed it and another 300km and the turbo is now gone.

Turbo is doing now same as Last time, blowing huge amount of Oil to the exhaust side thus making a huge smoke..
Brand new OEM turbos from dealer? or brand new "oem" turbos from mainland china?
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      06-09-2018, 09:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halik008 View Post
Brand new OEM turbos from dealer? or brand new "oem" turbos from mainland china?
OEM dealer.
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