[neeko5]

So I go to start my 07 328xi one morning after sitting for a few days in below freezing temps. I get in and push start and the engine starts up buts runs like crap for about 5 seconds and dies. So I try starting again and does the same thing. I push start once more time and it starts up running rough I press and gas pedal gently and it dies. So I pressed the start button one more time and now it just makes a CHUG sound. I figure the battery is dead so I tried jump starting but still get the same chug sound I even hooked up my battery charger over night and topped it off and still does the same . its not a click sound like the starting solenoid but like the starter is engaging but the motor is holding it back. it motor moves maybe 1/4 inch if that when I try to start. So I pulled the spark plugs and put my breaker bar on the crank and it cant get the damn thing to budge 1 inch . I put my body weight behind it and still nothing! Is motor toast and how the hell does it seize just from starting in cold weather!

[UPDATE POSTED!!!!!!]


Check out the photos I linked....wtf

[W37V]

Damn that sucks.

The only thing I can think of is that your oil become a sludge due to low temperatures. Since car was sitting for few days, most likely all oil pooled up in the oil pan. When you started the car, you were running without oil, thus causing it to seize.

You can Google how different oils perform in low temps.

[RuinE90d]

Seems unlikely an oil issue due to cold ambient temps, unless maybe you put the wrong weight oil in... even then, It's a stretch. Engines don't seize unless there is no lubricant or there is a mechanical interference/blockage preventing rotation.

Did you check the coolant concentration? Maybe your coolant was not diluted properly and froze in the cold.?

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Did you check codes yet?

[neeko5]

Thanks for the help guys.
I pulled the starter out today to see if it was maybe somehow jammed the flywheel but still no luck. no matter how hard I push or pull I cant get the damn motor budge a hair. all I can think at this point is that maybe the timing chain slipped and the timing is off and piston is jammed up with a valve . Ill check out the coolant tomorrow if it froze even tho I cant see how that would seize up a motor

[neeko5]

Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda

Did you check codes yet?

yes, I got no codes

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by neeko5

Thanks for the help guys.
I pulled the starter out today to see if it was maybe somehow jammed the flywheel but still no luck. no matter how hard I push or pull I cant get the damn motor budge a hair. all I can think at this point is that maybe the timing chain slipped and the timing is off and piston is jammed up with a valve . Ill check out the coolant tomorrow if it froze even tho I cant see how that would seize up a motor

When coolant is not diluted properly the engine coolant can freeze and crack the block causing severe misalignment.

Probably unlikely in this case... if you're working on the car in a heated area I think you'd have seen fluids leaking.

[neeko5]

Coolant is good, not frozen. you think this could be caused by a seized belt pulley

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by neeko5

Coolant is good, not frozen. you think this could be caused by a seized belt pulley

Possibly. Remove the belt and try to spin it over with a breaker bar. Also make sure you are spinning the engine in the correct direction.

[JuniorB]

All these answers are about 5% true. If your car sat for a couple days during this cold spell more than likely, your battery isn't pulling enough amps. I've been starting diesels in this weather, if this was true, I would have been junking 10 engines! A lot of cars have difficulty starting in this weather, it sucks, but it's preventable. Your going to need more power to the started, a jump pac or quick charger, make sure you hook them to the front of the car. Your antifreeze should be fine if it's extended life, good for -20 or so. The stumbling when running can be from fuel being below full. Oil will not freeze, or turn to sludge, unless it's mixed with water. Check your battery, how old is it, if it's pass 3yrs, winter starting will continue to be hard, keeping a maintainer on it will help. Also, I'm looking into putting a block heater in mine, either coolant or oil.

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by neeko5

Thanks for the help guys.
I pulled the starter out today to see if it was maybe somehow jammed the flywheel but still no luck. no matter how hard I push or pull I cant get the damn motor budge a hair. all I can think at this point is that maybe the timing chain slipped and the timing is off and piston is jammed up with a valve . Ill check out the coolant tomorrow if it froze even tho I cant see how that would seize up a motor

I agree, it sounds like mechanical interference or binding.

Maybe you could rent/borrow/buy a borescope and look into the cylinders.? If so look closely at the cylinder bores too.

I read a post a few months back about Disa valve pieces entering the engine, w/o causing engine codes. The one I'm thinking of was jammed in the way of an intake valve causing misfire, just thought I'd mention it. I would suspect failed Disa parts before a jumped timing chain, personally. Weird it won't move at all in either direction, that sounds bad.

Clearly your problem isn't the battery or need for a block heater when it won't turn by hand.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

I agree, it sounds like mechanical interference or binding.

Maybe you could rent/borrow/buy a borescope and look into the cylinders.? If so look closely at the cylinder bores too.

I read a post a few months back about Disa valve pieces entering the engine, w/o causing engine codes. The one I'm thinking of was jammed in the way of an intake valve causing misfire, just thought I'd mention it. I would suspect failed Disa parts before a jumped timing chain, personally. Weird it won't move at all in either direction, that sounds bad.

Clearly your problem isn't the battery or need for a block heater when it won't turn by hand.

Is his car an N51 motor? If not, no disa unless he installed a 3 stage himself.

[neeko5]

So here is where I am at.
Its not a battery issue...trust me
Coolant is good
Pulled spark plugs and used my borescope found no damage
Pulled intake off and removed starter incase it was jammed with fly wheel
timing chain aint broke
I have a breaker bar plus a pipe on the crank shaft and I cant more the motor at all. I mean zero movement and either direction what so ever

Long story short I ordered a used motor with 47k from a 2011 year car and will be installing it
once I get the motor out im going to rip it open to see what the hell happened

[JuniorB]

Pulling the motor already? Th car ran and sat for a few days, more than likely, it's not seized. Unless the motor ran before, overheated, without any fluids, and stopped, then I wouldn't jump to removing just yet. An engine doesn't seize from cold weather, besides you said it ran, for a second, that should tell you it's not seized. To accurately make sure you there is no doubt,lift the rear wheels, all if awd, release the e brake, (this can freeze), put the trans in neutral, and remove the belt and plugs. This will eliminate any and all points of friction. If you have an electric shifter, put it in neutral and push the car to make sure it's in neutral and that not hing is causing anything to lock up. Now you can bar the motor over, making sure your opposite of the crank bolt treads, so I would pull from the pass side first. You can also try to turn it over by the starter if your saying there good. This may sound like a lot to prove something, but it's minor compared to a motor swap. If the trans is in a gear, and your on the ground, the motor may not move, you have to be 100% sure it's in neutral, even if you have to disconnect the driveshafts.Hope this helps.

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by neeko5

So here is where I am at.
Its not a battery issue...trust me
Coolant is good
Pulled spark plugs and used my borescope found no damage
Pulled intake off and removed starter incase it was jammed with fly wheel
timing chain aint broke
I have a breaker bar plus a pipe on the crank shaft and I cant more the motor at all. I mean zero movement and either direction what so ever

Long story short I ordered a used motor with 47k from a 2011 year car and will be installing it
once I get the motor out im going to rip it open to see what the hell happened

I agree that it seems soon to pull the motor. I typically want to find the smoking gun first.. but you've been working to figure it out for a while and probably need your car back.

Hopefully the motor swap goes well and you get it running soon. Please do share what you find.

[neeko5]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

Pulling the motor already? Th car ran and sat for a few days, more than likely, it's not seized. Unless the motor ran before, overheated, without any fluids, and stopped, then I wouldn't jump to removing just yet. An engine doesn't seize from cold weather, besides you said it ran, for a second, that should tell you it's not seized. To accurately make sure you there is no doubt,lift the rear wheels, all if awd, release the e brake, (this can freeze), put the trans in neutral, and remove the belt and plugs. This will eliminate any and all points of friction. If you have an electric shifter, put it in neutral and push the car to make sure it's in neutral and that not hing is causing anything to lock up. Now you can bar the motor over, making sure your opposite of the crank bolt treads, so I would pull from the pass side first. You can also try to turn it over by the starter if your saying there good. This may sound like a lot to prove something, but it's minor compared to a motor swap. If the trans is in a gear, and your on the ground, the motor may not move, you have to be 100% sure it's in neutral, even if you have to disconnect the driveshafts.Hope this helps.

I hear you, I did try turning the motor over in neutral with no luck. I also did try to push the car back and fourth to see if it was somehow locked up. But I will try to jack up all 4 tires and see if that helps. I understand about what your saying about an engine does not just seize up. I asked a lot of my mechanic friends and tried everything in the books expect for ripping the motor wide open but im limited to what I can do in my drive way

[JuniorB]

I know it's been friggen cold here! I've had to start trucks and equipment with two battery chargers and a torpedo heater on them. Unless your dead set on pulling the motor, there are so many other variables in between it all, hate to see you pull it, and find out later it was further down the driveline. I'd want to 200% sure it wrong before you go pulling the wrong part. I've been working on trucks and equipment for a long time, and I always make sure I've tested every single piece before I make a desison to replace something. If your dead set on this, then I hope it goes well, but motors don't lock up for no reason, and cold isn't one on them.

[JuniorB]

Originally Posted by neeko5

So here is where I am at.
Its not a battery issue...trust me
Coolant is good
Pulled spark plugs and used my borescope found no damage
Pulled intake off and removed starter incase it was jammed with fly wheel
timing chain aint broke
I have a breaker bar plus a pipe on the crank shaft and I cant more the motor at all. I mean zero movement and either direction what so ever

Long story short I ordered a used motor with 47k from a 2011 year car and will be installing it
once I get the motor out im going to rip it open to see what the hell happened

You are using at least a 3/4 bar,right? A 1/2 can bend and not budge the engine. Unless you pull the valve cover off, there's no other way to tell if the chain is off/ moved.

[neeko5]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

You are using at least a 3/4 bar,right? A 1/2 can bend and not budge the engine. Unless you pull the valve cover off, there's no other way to tell if the chain is off/ moved.

I all have is a 1/2 bar, I did add a pipe it with no luck. I've turn over 8cyl motors in the past by hand. When I say this motor will not move I mean zero movement and either direction. I did stick a my borescope in the valve cover and the chain is still on from what I can see.

[David0ff]

Just a Silly Question

Is the Car in Neutral when you try to turn the motor?

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

You are using at least a 3/4 bar,right? A 1/2 can bend and not budge the engine. Unless you pull the valve cover off, there's no other way to tell if the chain is off/ moved.

Stop giving meaningless advices. A motor can even be turned by a 3/8 wrench.
To give some perspective, the N52 max torque is 200 ft lbs. If a 2 feet breaker bar is used, just by leaning on it and applying 100 pounds of body weight will apply full torque of the motor itself can generate. If the car is in 1st gear with no e-brake on it will start moving easily. If the e-brake is on and first gear, you will hear the rear brake pads starting to creak as wheels want to turn.

[JuniorB]

Actually a motor with all it's accessories will have resistance, bolted to a transmission, a 3/8 is useless. You would be surprised as the some of the things you hear when you taking someones word for it.... When you barred the motor, did you eliminate the serp belt? Remove the belt and spin all the pullies, this eliminates the drive accessories. That leaves timing chain and flywheel. Whether or not you want to go further, but these are the steps to really find out what's going on. I'd try to use a 3/4 bar to get some good leverage on that crank bolt, a motor with good compression will have resistance. Hope this helps.