[nukezero]

Hi guys. I had a no start problem 3 weeks ago and the shop put in a new starter for me. I get the infamous single click and all electronics work. I disconnected IBS and all, and still nothing.

When the shop replaced the starter, everything ran like a champ again for 3 weeks. Now today, coming out of Target in sunny socal, the car behaved the same way again. Click, no start. No cels and no codes.

Finally, I popped the trunk and looked around and wiggled here and there. After 10 minutes, the car started and we were able to get home! Car has no trouble driving and no cel either.

Right when I pulled into the garage, I bet myself that if I shut it off that I won't be able to start it again. Sure enough, it wouldn't start again. I tried to wiggle around here and there and still no go. It is now 11PM, 5 hours after it started and still won't start!

I called the shop and they seem to think it is the starter again and they'll warranty it. I'll have it towed to the shop tomorrow. But I'm not so sure now. i'm starting to think it is a ground fault or short? I hooked up a Bavtech tool to it and there are no shadow codes.

My wife wants me to get rid of the car and get a Lexus SUV but I think this car still has a few more years of life to give me. She thinks the car is a big money pit now, seeing how I already replaced the turbos, alternator, etc.

[Levanime]

find jumper cables,
hook one side on engine, another side on body, ground point, both sides should have GOOD connections

let us know

[335e92tx]

Had 3 no starts (within a 2 week) on a starter that was 10m old. Would work fine when attempted 30 min to 2 hrs later. Replaced starter (warrantied) , never happened again.

[hassmaschine]

335i 6mt to a Lexus SUV? Ugh. Sorry man..

[BashShah]

why don't you test your starter to see if it is the starter.

open hood. Look at your Intake Port. Between each Port there is a Gap.
now focus on the last Gap....near the windshield.
I used a 6 inch plus a 3 inch socket extensions together to touch the top the starter and hit it lightly twice. (when you tap a nail in so it stands.....that lightly.)

and then go try starting.
if it starts, then it is the starter.
if it does not start, then it is something else.

ask your shop, did they use a NEW OEM or re-manufactured starter?
how much warranty on it.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

why don't you test your starter to see if it is the starter.

open hood. Look at your Intake Port. Between each Port there is a Gap.
now focus on the last Gap....near the windshield.
I used a 6 inch plus a 3 inch socket extensions together to touch the top the starter and hit it lightly twice. (when you tap a nail in so it stands.....that lightly.)

and then go try starting.
if it starts, then it is the starter.
if it does not start, then it is something else.

ask your shop, did they use a NEW OEM or re-manufactured starter?
how much warranty on it.

yeah I agree with above member. Do you know what type of starter did you replace with? Hope its OEM or BOSCH? I replaced mine 2 months ago with BOSCH and have not had any issues...

[335e92tx]

Well, they can be intermittent and it check out fine. I think it generally has to do with a bad spot on the commutator. I didnt get refunded for the labor install for my replacement (bc they said it checked out). But the part was exchanged by the local shop bc it was lifetime...

[nukezero]

The tow truck driver picks up a lot of these BMWs. He gave it a shot. basically told me, it's likely the starter.

I'm pretty sure the shop did _not_ use a Bosch starter. They probably used some aftermarket bullsh**. The shop said they'll end up warrantying the part but at least they won't charge me for labor again.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by nukezero

The tow truck driver picks up a lot of these BMWs. He gave it a shot. basically told me, it's likely the starter.

I'm pretty sure the shop did _not_ use a Bosch starter. They probably used some aftermarket bullsh**. The shop said they'll end up warrantying the part but at least they won't charge me for labor again.

How much did the shop charge you if its ok to ask? Usually Bosch starters cost about $150 shop price.

[ard5040]

Just curious, do you lose the sound on your radio/cd player intermittently also?

[nukezero]

The shop charged me 5 bills. The starter was $180 and then there was the 3 bolts and what not. This job requires investing in buying a special angle ratchet tool as well, which I didn't have.

[335e92tx]

there is not a lot that can be done to make these things live. They arnt intended to. Especially with engine stop/start enabled.

They are small and are often located in high heat areas; not something electric motors really find conducive to long life. Around the 5-6 yr mark it should be expected... and then no promises. ..

[mxchris727]

What brand starter did you get? Remanufactured? I only buy brand new. All remanufactured starters (Bosch or not) fail quickly.

[BashShah]

also there is a known issue of a Steel Braided ground strap going from the drivers side of engine to a chassis.
check if it is corroded.
Look this up.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1035873&page=2
last post shows it.

you can look for a braided strap and check it....
is it loose, or brittle?

[nukezero]

Guys, the shop is diagnosing it. All indications point to the starter.

Question for you guys, does anyone know if the N54 and N52 share the same starter??? Part # 12412354701

[rick100]

Originally Posted by nukezero

Guys, the shop is diagnosing it. All indications point to the starter.

Question for you guys, does anyone know if the N54 and N52 share the same starter??? Part # 12412354701

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...12412354701kt/

[nukezero]

I swung by the shop and the tech did a bunch of diagnostics on it. He has the ISTAP program which can scan all the CAS module, and all the mumbo jumbo electronics.

he tells me that pin 50 is the big signal wire cable that goes to the starter from the CAS module to the starter. Everything checks out and he also hooked up a oscilloscope to capture the pin 50 signal and battery voltage. The pop we hear is the solenoid on the starter engaging, but the starter just never spins. He was able to trace that teh starter was receiving 12v when the solenoid engages, but nothing happens.

The starter was replaced under part warranty and the replacement starter works now.

Damn. I guess these rebuilt starters can have problems.

[N52UNED]

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

Going forward if possible specifically ask for Bosch replacement parts. A new Bosch starter is spendy as far as starters, but they do come with 2 year warranties, which include roadside assistance (this comes with Alternators too).

Regarding the Mrs' ... I can see where she's coming from and there's no winning that argument. Perhaps she's just wanting an excuse to get a SUV ... there's always X5M

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by nukezero

I swung by the shop and the tech did a bunch of diagnostics on it. He has the ISTAP program which can scan all the CAS module, and all the mumbo jumbo electronics.

he tells me that pin 50 is the big signal wire cable that goes to the starter from the CAS module to the starter. Everything checks out and he also hooked up a oscilloscope to capture the pin 50 signal and battery voltage. The pop we hear is the solenoid on the starter engaging, but the starter just never spins. He was able to trace that teh starter was receiving 12v when the solenoid engages, but nothing happens.

The starter was replaced under part warranty and the replacement starter works now.

Damn. I guess these rebuilt starters can have problems.

great to hear this. My friend who is also a BMW mechanic told me that when it comes down to starters and alternators you never want to replace with re-build parts. You always want to go OEM new.

[dspence44]

Sorry to sidestep here, but my starter is making a horrid squeal on a cold start and I will likely be needing to change it sooner than later. What did the shop charge you to swap out your starter, if you don't mind me asking?

[335e92tx]

normally about 450-550. Indy might be 400 but not much less.

[nukezero]

I was charged about $500. Considering they had to do the job twice, I think that is a fair price.

I don't think I would've bought a OEM brand new starter anyways because that is like $400! I would've gone with a remanufactured one for $150-175 and that was what the shop charged me.

If I had done the job myself, and it failed, i would've had to done the labor twice myself, ship the old part back, wait for the exchange.etc. At least the shop is giving me 1 year, 12,000 mile warranty. The shop warrantied the part immediately so they seem to have their supplier in check. Even the Tech was upset that he had to do the job twice so I don't think they're out to put inferior parts but they're definitely not going to put in brand new parts either.


Considering that the tow truck towed my car twice for free because I have insurance for towing... I guess I got a pretty good deal.

Remember that it is difficult to reach the back bolt on the starter and you need a special ratchet tool that can angle the head.