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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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e93 front subframe to fender braces - torque specs?
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09-09-2017, 07:45 AM | #1 |
Second Lieutenant
68
Rep 211
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e93 front subframe to fender braces - torque specs?
I had to do the water pump on my e93, the only way I could see getting the pump out was to release the passenger side bar that runs from the subframe to the fender in front of the engine in order to make the hole big enough to get the pump out. I cannot find anything in online parts diagrams about these bars in order to properly reinstall it.
I can only assume that the bolts are torque to yield, so what is the part number for the replacement hardware (bolt into subframe, nut to frame rail and bolt to inner fender), and whats the torque spec for them? Thanks! |
09-09-2017, 08:00 AM | #2 |
ahat
1036
Rep 2,592
Posts |
No, not torque to yield (they are normally blue heads). Just make sure the bolts seat in their socket and get them as tight as possible with a 3/8 ratchet. I used to have a dash rattle and found one of them loose once.. I imagine on a e93 its even more crucial.
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'13 335IS N54 (1 of 373 LeMans Blue out of 3597 total production e92)- Grey interior (1 of 24 in LMB with any trans- 1 of 14 with DCT)-MODS -MFactory LSD/MHD-BQ custom Tune/ATM-IC/AFE Momentum GT Intake/Konis/Mfront&HeimJoint Rear rods&arms/Brembos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lo6aHZRo7XqtPkhL8 |
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09-10-2017, 02:45 PM | #3 |
Second Lieutenant
68
Rep 211
Posts |
Not sure you're referring to the same bars. These run from the subframe, below the crank pulley, up to the fenders behind the headlights in a 'V' orientation. Not the strut tower braces that go to the center of the firewall. These appear to be e93 only, and the Bentley makes no mention of them, nor do any of the online parts diagrams I can find. May need to call the dealer or a shop and see if someone's got a better set of diagrams tomorrow.
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09-10-2017, 04:24 PM | #4 |
ahat
1036
Rep 2,592
Posts |
Yeah, those bottom bars are e93 only. But, when it comes to fasteners, you just have to accomplish what is called preload to perform the adequate 'stretch'. So, I would get them as tight as possible with a standard 3/8 ratchet. They wont back out there and thats all your shooting for.
Did you check realoem.com? putin your vin.
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'13 335IS N54 (1 of 373 LeMans Blue out of 3597 total production e92)- Grey interior (1 of 24 in LMB with any trans- 1 of 14 with DCT)-MODS -MFactory LSD/MHD-BQ custom Tune/ATM-IC/AFE Momentum GT Intake/Konis/Mfront&HeimJoint Rear rods&arms/Brembos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lo6aHZRo7XqtPkhL8 |
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09-10-2017, 05:22 PM | #5 |
Second Lieutenant
68
Rep 211
Posts |
I finally found it at BMW South Atlanta
It still doesnt list the bolt that ties the bars together at the bottom. The bolt and nut for the fender are just M12 10.9 grade bolts, at least you can look up what those should be torqued to. I may just have to reuse the bolt that goes into the subframe too, since its no where to be found. |
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09-12-2017, 03:46 AM | #6 |
Private First Class
27
Rep 144
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Next time, just unbolt front of bar #4 (Don't remember if #3 gets in the way), then loosen rear of #4. It will let you rotate #4 so that you may have access to the water pump. This is what I did with my '11 335i e93.
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09-12-2017, 06:50 AM | #7 |
Second Lieutenant
68
Rep 211
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With the sway bar and power steering underneath, how did releasing bar #4 buy you room? I didn't have issues accessing the bolts, it was having a hole big enough to get the pump out of its spot. I removed bar #2, which enabled the ability to slide the pump and T stat out the front. I got it all back in and reassembled. 50 ft-lb seemed like a fairly decent number to go with for reattaching it. I'm still working on some other stuff while I'm in there, so I haven't test driven the car. I guess if I hear it banging I'll have to tighten it up some more.
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09-12-2017, 07:45 PM | #8 |
Private First Class
27
Rep 144
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Nice! For the sway bar you just drop it from the mounts. No need to take it fully off. For the power steering I just moved the hose out the way. In addition to #4, this will give you the access you need from underneath the car.
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11-16-2018, 01:26 AM | #9 |
Enlisted Member
6
Rep 34
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Bar #3 will prevent the sway bar from dropping down to let the pump come out. Gotta remove them both. I, too, had to remove them both and the bar #2 to snake the pump & T’stat out. It was all such a miserable piece of work that I decided to replace the Oil Filter Housing Gaskets and the serpentine belt “while you’re in there”. And, oh, might as well walnut blast the intake ports, since the intake manifold has to come off to do the OFHG.
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