[AWF10M5]

Picked up a 2010 335 as a project. Car he 122k miles.

The subframe is coming down to address the oil pan leak and to install inlets and Catless down pipe.

Also going on are KW v1 and the upgraded control arm bushings and new upper/lower control arms.

What else should I take care of? Rear upper shock mounts and new end links. Since the subframe is lowers I was thinking m3 subframe bushings or would you guys stick to power flex inserts?

And lastly to wrap it all up I was thinking of throwing on e9x m3 front and rear swaybars?

Anything else I should do when all this work is being done please let me know so I can order parts

[335xs2dinan]

i really like the m3 subframe bushing upgrade

fyi - if you have xi/awd the m3 front swaybar wont fit

[matteblue3er]

There are no subframe bushings for the front subframe.

M3 bushings in the rear subframe do help though and a rear sway when you do the rear subframe will save on labor.

[duplicities]

Make a detailed inlet install guide pls pls pls pls pls.

[NiNeTyOne]

Don't use M3 bushings, go solid. There is no difference in NVH. The handling difference is profound. Just because it came out of an M car doesn't make it better.

I'd do high durometer poly on the diff as well as the transmission while you're there.

If you have it all out, put a rear bar in and solve the push under steer once and for all. Don't go too big like most people do. With the OE front bar an M3 bar should do just fine and restore good balance to the car and improve turn in.

These cars DO NOT need more front bar.

Replace the upper shock mounts with the high durometer poly too, makes the shocks work better. They are cheap, like $25 for the set. I used the Strongflex ones and they are very good.

[AWF10M5]

Thanks for the reply guys esp ninteyone .

Can I use the upgraded shock mounts with the KW v1. Coils? And do you guys know the best place to buy the solid rear bushings?

[NiNeTyOne]

The ones from MRF Engineering are VERY well regarded: http://www.mrfengineering.com/mrf-en...e-bushing-set/

You can use the strut mounts with any strut, they replace the sponge-o-matic OE ones that do nothing but compromise damper performance. You can get the Strongflex ones from them directly. Don't bother with the softer red ones, you won't get any more vibration from the yellow:

http://www.strongflex.eu/en/e81-e82-...553503418.html

[AWF10M5]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

The ones from MRF Engineering are VERY well regarded: http://www.mrfengineering.com/mrf-en...e-bushing-set/

You can use the strut mounts with any strut, they replace the sponge-o-matic OE ones that do nothing but compromise damper performance. You can get the Strongflex ones from them directly. Don't bother with the softer red ones, you won't get any more vibration from the yellow:

http://www.strongflex.eu/en/e81-e82-...553503418.html

Never heard of those subframe bushings but they look really good will definitely order them.

In addition to this strut mount bushing do you suggest anything else ? I'm installing kw v1 I heard the strut top hats should be done too?

The car has 122k miles.

[NiNeTyOne]

Originally Posted by E63amg

Never heard of those subframe bushings but they look really good will definitely order them.

In addition to this strut mount bushing do you suggest anything else ? I'm installing kw v1 I heard the strut top hats should be done too?

The car has 122k miles.

Does it have rust? I didn't change mine because they were as good as new at 90k. You should also do the tension arm bushings up front with yellow Strongflx, and any bushings you can in the rear with yellow strongflex, the rear geometry moves all over the place under load, the 90A poly makes a HUGE difference.

Get the correct 90A poly bushings for the rear bar too, it's a different diameter than OE so make sure you double check that, but the clamps which hold the bushings are all the same outer dia. As mentioned above, the M3 bar may not fit, but UUC makes a good rear bar.

I'd use the red poly on the OE front bar.

The front and rear subframes need to be aligned to each other. You need a frame jig for that. You may not think it's a big deal, but it is. Also, make absolutely all your suspension and arm bushings are not torqued till you get the car corner balanced at the correct ride height, then go back and torque it all down at height or you'll trash your new bushings. I usually do this all on an alignment rack at a friend's shop.

[miker2013]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

Don't use M3 bushings, go solid. There is no difference in NVH. The handling difference is profound. Just because it came out of an M car doesn't make it better.

I'd do high durometer poly on the diff as well as the transmission while you're there.

If you have it all out, put a rear bar in and solve the push under steer once and for all. Don't go too big like most people do. With the OE front bar an M3 bar should do just fine and restore good balance to the car and improve turn in.

These cars DO NOT need more front bar.

Replace the upper shock mounts with the high durometer poly too, makes the shocks work better. They are cheap, like $25 for the set. I used the Strongflex ones and they are very good.

good post... have u tried the m3 bushings on ur vehicle? how do u know that there is no diff in nvh?

i am very sensitive to nvh but would be open to try the solid bushings but not just for a negligible handling diff

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Transfer case fluid. That's a must. Changed mine at 70k km. Pretty damn black.

[NiNeTyOne]

Originally Posted by miker2013

good post... have u tried the m3 bushings on ur vehicle? how do u know that there is no diff in nvh?

i am very sensitive to nvh but would be open to try the solid bushings but not just for a negligible handling diff

NVH comes from the diff carrier, not the subframe. If you're that concerned use the yellow poly from Strongflex, but all the new M cars are solid mounted because BMW finally figured out what some of us know already, that you need to lock down the back of these cars for them to handle properly.

If you're just going to daily it, there will be zero NVH difference with the poly over the OE, and it'll be a big improvement.

The solid ones are night and day difference. If you like the handling of a new M, this is the direction you want to go. These cars are really heavy, you want to get the big rubber bits out of them if you can.

[miker2013]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

NVH comes from the diff carrier, not the subframe. If you're that concerned use the yellow poly from Strongflex, but all the new M cars are solid mounted because BMW finally figured out what some of us know already, that you need to lock down the back of these cars for them to handle properly.

If you're just going to daily it, there will be zero NVH difference with the poly over the OE, and it'll be a big improvement.

The solid ones are night and day difference. If you like the handling of a new M, this is the direction you want to go. These cars are really heavy, you want to get the big rubber bits out of them if you can.

which strong flex bushings can i use? i was on their website and saw many listed for the awd e92... i am replacing all shocks struts and roll bars and subframe bushings so which ones will be direct fit?

the subframe front/rear bushings in yellow?
shock absorber upper mount??
roll bars??

all yellow?

[NiNeTyOne]

All yellow. I'd do the whole damn mess. I have yellow throughout, however I used red up front because I want to get rid of some of the understeer.

[miker2013]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

All yellow. I'd do the whole damn mess. I have yellow throughout, however I used red up front because I want to get rid of some of the understeer.

i also am trying to limit understeer, which one did u do in red?

thanks for you input... my build is gonna be epic can't wait to get it together

[NiNeTyOne]

Originally Posted by miker2013

i also am trying to limit understeer, which one did u do in red?

thanks for you input... my build is gonna be epic can't wait to get it together

OE or red in front, yellow in rear. You want a stiffer rear bar, which means high durometer in back, soft in front.

If you don't plan to upgrade the rear bar you should consider leaving the OE in front and going to yellow in the rear.